true they had frequently pipes in their mouths, and very sweet ones too, but that they never smoaked; nay, so much did they abhor it, that they regarded the man with disgust who indulged himself in the habit.

At Copenhagen I had an opportunity of observing, that a Turk in a Lutheran country can get as gloriously drunk as a Christian. At a table d'hote which I frequented, we were occasionally amused by a little fat follower of Mahomet, who had just arrived, with some appearance of consequence, but with a suspicious application to the Danish government: the mussulman very soon forgot or defied the sumptuary provisions of the Alcoran, and became enamoured with some excellent port wine and English bottled porter; his libations, which were pretty copious, were generally followed by dancing and kicking his turban round the room; at length, he was suddenly told to look out for other quarters. A little facetious waiter was asked whether he had removed him, to prevent his further augmenting the anger of the prophet? I know nothing about his prophet," said he, "all that I know is, that he has got no more money."





After having perused the description which travellers have given of the grounds and house of Count Bernstoff, I was somewhat disappointed upon visiting them: the former are certainly finely wooded, and command a beautiful view of the

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Sound, but they are not laid out with much taste; the latter is by no means splendid. I was more gratified with the King's park, which is extensive and highly picturesque, as I was with the grounds and gardens of Prince Frederic, the King's brother: this spot is very delightful, and on account of the motley crowds which flock to it, is in miniature (a very small one) at once the Versailles and Greenwich-park of Denmark.

The laws of Denmark prevent the gratifications of shooting: a young Dane, who had been in England, observed to me one day with a most serious countenance, that nothing could exceed the impertinence of the hawks, who, availing themselves of the laws, flew into the room and killed his canary birds.

A gloomy curiosity conducted us to the Rasp-house, where capital offenders are confined for life: the male convicts, some of whom were ironed, rasp and saw Brasil wood and rein-deer's horns; the latter is used in soup. The females spin. The prisoners are separately confined: the house of correction is on the right: here offenders of both sexes are enclosed in the same room, many of them young and healthy, but strange to relate, I only saw one little child in the apartment: they all looked neat and clean, and are made by their labour to contribute towards their support. It has often surprised me that the latter arrangement has not been adopted in the principal prisons of



England; surely it is a subject well worthy the notice of the statesman. We have hundreds of miserable wretches shut up in confinement after conviction, who, with the exception of picking oakum in some of the correctional houses, and that too in a very desultory and unprofitable manner, do nothing but render their depravity more desperate. Justice demands that their services, if possible, should atone for their crimes; policy, that they should help to maintain themselves; and humanity, that their health should be promoted by their labour.

The Admiralty-hospital, the Citizens-hospital, the Orphanshouse, and the hospital of Frederic, are all very humane foundations and well maintained; there is nothing in them worthy of elaborate description. To an Englishman such establishments, and every other institution by which misfortune can be relieved, misery alleviated, and infirmity recovered, are proudly familiar to his eye: they constitute the principal beauty of every town and city in his country. Although the manufactories of the north are much inferior to those of the south, I must not omit to mention the gratification which we derived from visiting the manufactory of china, which is very beautiful, and although in its infancy, is thought to rival those of Saxony, Berlin, and Vienna. This manufactory furnished the beautiful service which we saw in the palace of Rosenberg: it is under the care of directors, who very liberally and politely


shew the whole of this very curious and elegant establishment to strangers.


I did not leave Copenhagen without visiting the Dutch town in the isle of Amak, about two English miles from the capital, which is inhabited by about four thousand people, descendants of a colony from East Friesland, who were invited to reside here, with certain privileges, by one of the ancient kings of Denmark, for the purpose of supplying the city with milk, cheese, butter, and vegetables; the neatness and luxuriance of their little gardens cannot be surpassed: they dress in the Dutch style, and are governed by their own laws. The road from this village to the city is constantly crowded with these indefatigable people, who by their bustle and activity give it the appearance of a great ant-hill. In Denmark no other money is to be seen than the money of the country, the currency of which is penally protected: I must except, however, Dutch ducats, which pass all over Europe, and are very seldom below par. There is here a plentiful lack of gold and silver coin, and abundance of copper.

Having seen most of the lions of Copenhagen, we prepared to bid adieu to our friends, and to shape our course towards Sweden: as a necessary preliminary we exchanged our Danish money for Swedish small notes: the exchange was


about three per cent. in our favour; by this precaution we obviated the difficulty of procuring change for large Swedish notes in the country, and the inconvenience (and not a small one it is) of carrying its coin. We also procured a servant who spoke Swedish, which was very necessary, and purchased ropes and cross bars to enable us to construct a new harness and tackling in Sweden according to the custom of travelling there. When a man is about to set out on a long journey, it is a fortunate thing for him if some little pleasant or ridiculous event occur to set him off in good humour; nothing therefore could happen more opportunely than the following circumstance: Just before our departure we had occasion to go to a leather breeches maker, to which we were conducted by our lacquais de place: our gentleman, who by the bye was an Italian, and the coolest of his countrymen, with the greatest sang froid addressed himself very familiarly to the Baron B, the Bavarian minister, who was in the shop when we entered, and at last begged to have the honour of introducing him to us. We bowed to each other with a smile of astonishment at the intrepid assurance of our mutual friend. We took the road to Elsineur, attended by several of our Copenhagen friends, who begged to accompany us as far as Fredericksborg, where it was agreed that we should dine and part. Every thing in Denmark is very dear, pretty nearly as much so as in England.



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