whom he is about to die, and who have received his words and are trying, however imperfectly, to take them as the law of their life, are already forgiven. He does not even pray that they should be so guided as to escape temptation: "I pray not that thou shouldest take them out of the world;" he is come into the world to meet its temptations and to conquer them, and he does not ask that his followers shall live apart from the world or flee from its temptations. He calls them to go into the world, not apart from it. "As thou hast sent me into the world, even so have I also sent them into the world."

He asks for us who are his pupils, his followers, and his friends far higher things than he bade his pupils ask in the first hour of their acquaintance with him, when he was interpreting to them, not his wishes for them, but their wishes for themselves. He asks that we may be kept in intimate fellowship with the Father, as he has been kept in intimate fellowship with the Father: "Holy Father, keep through thine own name those whom thou hast given me, that they may be one, as we are one." He prays that thus they may be kept out of companionship with the Evil One, living in an evil world yet not contaminated by it, because not in companionship with its Prince: "I pray . . . that thou shouldest keep them from the Evil One." He prays that their acceptance of the truth may purify and cleanse them and make them

whole: "Sanctify them through thy truth: thy word is truth." He prays that they may share his glory because they see it, and may see his glory because they share it: " That they may be made perfect in one; ... that they may behold my glory, which thou hast given me."

There are two Lord's Prayers: let us not confound them. The first is childhood's prayer; the prayer of a soul which has not yet learned how to pray, because it knows not what to desire. The other is Christ's own prayer; the culmination of prayer; the prayer of the Master; the prayer also of the disciple who has lived long enough with Christ to catch Christ's spirit and to wish what Christ wishes for him. He is not burdened for food-for he has learned how both to abound and how to suffer need and still to be content; nor for forgiveness-for already the song of the forgiven is singing in his heart, prelude to the new song of the redeemed in heaven; nor for escape from temptation for the martial eagerness of the soldier is his, and his desire is to fight a good fight and come off conqueror. prayer is that he may have fellowship with God through Jesus Christ; that he may have no fellowship with the Evil One; that he may be one with God as Christ was one with God; and that his may be the purity and health and glory that living with God and in God brings to God's children.

W

May 22.

E went this morning to see a review of Italian troops in the open ground on the other side of the Tiber. In some ways Italy is more democratic than America. In New York there would have been provision at such a review for carriages, or else there would have been a stand erected on which one might, for a consideration, get seats. Not so here. Our carriage was stopped three or four blocks from the grounds where the review took place, and we had to walk the rest of the way and take our chance with the pedestrians. There was a woman who had

His

chairs to rent, but we could see nothing if we sat down, and the chairs were valuable only because we could stand up on them and look over the heads of the people. The only carriages allowed in the place were those which brought the Court party from the Quirinal. The variety of uniforms furnished a fine color effect, and the cavalry exhibited some fine mounts; but the marching was not so good as we would have seen in the crack regiments of New York, and the cavalry line, as it galloped past us, was decidedly broken. We had a good view of the King. He sits his horse well and is a fine-looking man. My Italian companion says of him

that he hates the show which court etiquette imposes on him, and every now and again runs away from the guard which, after the assassination of his father, is supposed to be necessary to his protection.

The occasion for this review was the visit of the Shah of Persia, which also furnished an incident curiously illustrating a political condition which it would be impossible to maintain in the United States; it could not survive the satirists. Ever since the Italian Government has occupied Rome as its capital, the Pope has confined himself to the Vatican, including the park which adjoins St. Peter's, which is all that is left of the Papal domains. These he never leaves, on the theory that to do so would be to render him subject to the civil power of Italy. The Roman Catholic countries, France, Spain, Austria-I do not know about Germany-send two ambassadors to Italy, one to the Papal court, one to the Italian court. The Vatican is the palace of the one, the Quirinal of the other. The Pope will receive no guest who comes from the Quirinal, much as, in a country town, Mrs. A., after a social quarrel with Mrs. B., is "not at home" to Mrs. B. nor to any one who comes from Mrs. B.'s house. The Shah was a visitor at the Quirinal; was prepared to pay his respects to the Pope; was informed that if he desired to be received he must go from the quarters of some ambassador to the Vatican; replied that he would go from the embassy of his own country or not at all, and left Rome without calling on the Pope. The papers say that he was deluged with telegrams and letters from all over Italy thanking him for his course. So far as I can judge from inquiry, most of the Italians are in their religious affiliations, if not in their religious convictions, Roman Catholics, but only a small minority are Papists.

Every

Italian is compelled to choose between loy alty to the kingdom of Italy and loyalty to the Pope; and most of the men in the towns choose the former. I do not know about the women, nor about the rural populations. I am inclined to think that if I lived in Italy I should vote for the maintenance of a large standing army, because the three years' service in camp is, next to the school system, the most efficient method of developing loyalty to the Government and counteracting the influence of the clerical

party, who are avowedly in favor of overthrowing the Government and restoring Rome and the former Papal States to the Papacy.

May 24.

We had a very interesting experience today. By the kindness of Dr. Kennedy, of the American Roman Catholic Theological College, and Bishop Gorman, of the United States, we were taken into the Vatican gardens. These gardens are really a park of considerable extent, and constitute, with St. Peter's and the Vatican Palace, the remnant of the Papal territory where the Pope is the supreme authority. They are laid out with great taste, with walks and lawns and flowers and fruit trees and fountains, but are, very properly, not open to the public. Indeed, I believe that admission to them is rather difficult to obtain. We happily obtained even more. For in walking about the grounds we presently came upon a house, neither large nor ornate, which we were told was the Pope's summer retreat. Here he comes sometimes to spend a night, sometimes a week, in quasi-retirement. After some little delay, we were admitted and conducted over it, rather to the surprise of Dr. Kennedy, who had not anticipated obtaining this privilege for us. We went out on to a large balcony or platform, where we had a fine view of Rome and the surrounding hills. Then we were taken rapidly through the apartments—a reception-room, its ceiling crowned with at dome representing the blue vault of the heavens, with the constellations indicated on it by gilt stars, each constellation having an appropriately sized electric light or group of lights, so that at night it furnished a sort of miniature facsimile of the heavens; the oratory, a completely furnished chapel, but not larger than a moderate-sized bedroom; the throne or audience room, with a plain armchair of that prescribed type which is used by the Pope on all official occasions, and a beautifully inlaid desk, a present to him by I forget what royal donor; and, not least interesting, his bedroom and diningroom, both in one. The dining-table was hardly larger than an ordinary dressingtable, and could not well have served as a dining-table for more than one. "Where does the Pope eat," I asked innocently enough, "when he has com

And to this the Pope is condemned by the requirements of his position. Set apart from the rest of mankind, without wife or children or anything which most of us call a home, without society, or the familiarities of equal friendship, or variety of life, or enjoyments of travel, confined by the policy of his Church-how far he is personally responsible for that policy I do not know-to one palace and its park; eating, sleeping, living, generally worshiping, in isolation-this is the price he must pay for the honor of being the head of the most influential organization in the world, and the privilege of rendering to mankind what doubtless he accounts the highest service which God permits any of ,his children to render to their fellow-men. It is a costly purchase; yet if I could believe as he does, I should also believe with him that it was worth the price.

May 25. To-morrow we leave Rome, and I know nothing about the modern city. I had meant to attend a meeting of Parliament, which is in session, but I have had no ti:ne. I cannot compare the Rome of to-day with that of twenty-five years ago, except as the accounts of other travelers give a basis for the comparison. Taking that as a basis, the contrast is startling. The city is as clean as Paris or Vienna, and much cleaner than Naples, London, or New York; the health of the city, as indicated by its death-rate, is equal to that of any European city of equal size; the Pontine marshes are drained, and the Roman fever has well-nigh disappeared, though those who live on the Campagna protect themselves from the pestilential mosquitoes by gloves for their hands, wire masks for their faces, and nettings for the doors and windows of their housesalas! no chain armor has yet been invented which is proof against the less pestilential but not less irritating fleas; the water is excellent, the water supply abundant, and the fountains are a feature of the city which I wish some man of wealth would introduce into New York

City; the cab service is cheap and the cabmen obliging-the warnings I had received against extortion have not been justified by my experience. I decided on arrival that when I could not afford a franc for a cab I would walk or ride in a horse-car; and as a franc was a trifle over the legal tariff, and the cabmen on the neighboring stand soon learned my custom, I found myself hailed by three or four men at once when I came within their sight, and was always well served. The cost of living is greater than at Naples, but not great for a capital; the owners of private picture galleries open them to the public with a generosity which has no parallel in any city in America, and in them are to be found some of the very finest works of the older artists. Of modern art I have seen but little, I might say nothing save for a visit to the studio of one of our fellow-countrymen, Mr. Ezekiel, whose "Jefferson," now erected in the public square at Louisville, and whose " Dead Christ "in Paris, copies of both of which he showed us, impressed me as remarkable alike in originality of conception and sincerity of feeling.

The Italian people impress me as relig ious in temperament, and yet, by reason of circumstances, without a religion. Their patriotism and their piety are at war, and unhappy is the lot of any people of whom that is true. I cannot but believe that this is the fault of the Church rather than of the State. "The Italians," said a Waldensian clergyman to me, "with few exceptions, either fear God or do not believe in him." This seems to me too epigrammatic to be true, and yet to veil a truth beneath the epigram. They have lost their faith in the old forms; they have found no new forms through which to express their faith. They are no longer Romanists; they certainly are not Protestants-they cannot be; their temperament demands a richer, warmer, less intellectual, more emotional, more sensuous symbolism than Protestantism affords. They are without great leaders; for in politics Cavour, and in religion Gavazzi, have left no successor. And yet the people are moving upward and forward, though without leaders and without programme, to a higher form of life than any that Italy has ever known, even in the best days of her past. L. A.

cents to one dollar a day more than in any other place in the country. It is fifty cents a day more than in Boston, and a dollar a day more than in Chicago or Philadelphia:

Are the New York union stereotypers superior to the union stereotypers in those places?

Yes; very much. For instance, we require a five years' apprenticeship. They require only four. High wages in every line of work attract the good mechanic. It is the good man who comes on from those places to New York. He feels that he is a hustler, and he says to himself, I am competent to hold a position anywhere, and it is as natural for him to seek the place where he can earn the best wages as for water to run down hill. Many of our men here have to go out of town because they are crowded out. The bosses won't pay them the money when they can get better men. Many of those who were born in New York have drifted to Philadelphia and other places, because they were not speedy enough as far as the work was concerned. Nearly all last summer most of our men in the book and job offices were getting $27 a week, though the scale was then only $24. The bosses were voluntarily paying more. There was a rivalry to get first-class men. New York publishers do the stereotyping for the big editions more cheaply than it can be done anywhere else. They make the plates here and send them all over the country. New York gets trade away from other places.

Of course you want to remember this-that a great city like New York is where the great plants are. They have superior machinery, and the machinery plays quite a part in the cheapening of production. Every new machine that can take the place of a high-priced man will find a ready sale in New York City.

Some unions have successfully fought off improved machinery. In the glass trust the company and the employees entered into contracts. They agreed to use certain machinery, and made a contract as to the output. The glass trust wanted the plate-glass workers to shut down in May instead of June, to limit the output. The workers agreed to this, fearing that the employers might introduce new machinery if they didn't. The advantage to the glass trust of limiting production would be so great that they would be willing to let the new machinery go. Of course the men would not be willing to concede to the glass trust's wishes unless the glass trust would give them something in return. The wages average about $4.50 a day.

I think that the general effect of the trade-union movement in this country has been an incentive to the production of improved machinery. High wages always offer an incentive to the introduction of improved machinery. In a part of the country where wages are low an employer would not have this incentive. But where he sees a lot of men working and making four dollars a day, he thinks, If I make a machine that can take the place of some of those men, it will be wanted. If they are getting only two dollars a day, it is not worth bothering about. The autoplate machine, for instance, costs $20,000, so unless it displaced a number of highpriced men it would not pay. The higher the wages the greater the incentive for improved machinery. The high-priced men are always more intelligent and better able to use high-priced machinery.

Shorter hours, too, have been an advantage to the employer. In shorter hours a man is able to keep his mind alert. The longer he works, the greater the danger of accidents. A man becomes stupid and careless and lacks energy after long hours

Something that the trade-union has learned is that improved machinery does not displace the number of men that at first glance it appears to do. I can remember when, fifteen years ago, the molding-machine was introduced into the stereotyping business. It is used on newspapers and magazines for taking an impression from type. The machine does in half a minute what it would take a man