railroad crosses the Ettenbach, and here, a little to the E. of the railroad is Ettenheim, where a party of French emigrants, among whom was the unfortunate Duc d'Enghien, were seized, 1804, by two columns of troops sent by Napoleon across the Rhine, who thus committed a breach of the law of nations, and violation of the territory of the German confederation. The duke was inhumanly shot 6 days after, at Vincennes.

Herbolzheim Stat. Kenzingen Stat.—Inn, Lachs (Salmon); good and clean.

Riegel Stat. rt. The Kaiserstuhl, an isolated, volcanic hilly range, fertile and thickly peopled, rises out of the plain of the Rhine: S. W. of this place, the railway bends E. to avoid it; passing between it and the Black Forest range. The summits of the Bellchen and Blauen are conspi

FREIBURG (Fr. Fribourg) Stat. Inns: Zähringer Hof, very good; Engel (Angel); Goldner Löwe (Golden Lion); Pfau (Peacock); Sauvage (Wilder Mann), very fair; Hotel Föhrenbach, close to the railway, a new house. This, the ancient capital of the Breisgau, is situated in one of the prettiest spots on the outskirts of the Black Forest, at the mouth of the Höllenthal (Valley of Hell), upon the Treisam, runlets from which are carried through all the streets. It has 15,000 inhab. (1500 Protestants, recently

settled here).

The Minster is remarkable as being almost the only large Gothic church

in Germany which is finished, and which has escaped destruction from fire, or the violence of war. It is equally admired for the delicate symmetry of its proportions, and the good taste of its decorations. It owes its existence, partly to the munificence of the princes of Zähringen; but also to the zeal and liberality of the citizens of Freiburg, who taxed themselves to the utmost, and made great sacrifices to complete it. The architect's name is unknown; Erwin of Steinbach, who built Strasburg, may have been his pupil. It was begun under Conrad III., of Zähringen, 1152. The nave, W. front, tower, and rich porch below it, date from 1236-72, and are by far the finest part of the building: the choir is inferior, and of a later period, 1513. The oldest parts are the transepts, together with their external turrets, in the round style. The W. tower, 380 ft. high, one of the very few of the kind ever com pleted, exhibits a skilful transition from a square base into an octagon. which is surmounted by a pyramidal spire of the most exquisite open-work tracery, all of stone, of extreme boldness as well as lightness. The ascent of the tower (6 kr.) gives a good idea of the beauty of the building: —the view is better from the Schlossberg.

Beneath the tower is the main entrance into the church, by a magnificent portal, richly ornamented with sculp tures. The portal leading into the choir from the N. also deserves attertion; the sculptures below the arch represent the Creation by the Deity in the form of an old man, shaping the sun, moon, and stars out of balls, and breathing life into Adam.

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The interior of the church contain the monument and armed effigy of Berchtold V., last Duke of Zähringer (1228): a curious carved pulpit, th work of George Kempf, 1561 and singular piece of sculpture of the Lord Supper, consisting of 13 figures, by s artist named Hauser, 1561. The wis dows are filled with stained glass, beautiful colours: the oldest is of the 15th century; that of the choir, supe rior in point of drawing, dates only

from the beginning of the 16th. That in St. Alexander's or the Miners' Chapel, is from designs of Baldung Grün, 1515, and very fine. Some good modern painted glass has been inserted.

In the chapel of St. Martin (Locherers), on the N. of the choir, a remarkable carving in wood represents the Virgin, sheltering beneath her mantle a whole host of worshippers of all ranks, including popes, cardinals, bishops, &c., date 1520. Prior (Domprobst) Bocklin's chapel contains his monumental effigy in armour, and a Crucifix of silver, hammered and gilt, of Eastern workmanship.

The painting over the high altar, set within an elegant Gothic framework, is by Hans Baldung Grün (an old painter of Gmünd in Swabia, d. 1552). The chief subject, in the centre when the doors are opened, is the Ascension of the Virgin, and her Coronation by the First and Second Persons in the Trinity; on the shutters at either side are the 12 Apostles. The outside of these is occupied by 4 subjects the Annunciation, Visitation of Elizabeth, Birth of Christ, and Flight into Egypt (perhaps the best). At the back of these paintings are others by B. Grün also, visible from the choir aisle; the chief piece being a row of portraits of magistrates of Freiburg. On the one side are St. George and St. Lawrence; on the other, St. John Baptist and St. Jerome as a cardinal. It is curious, rather than beautiful, as a work of art.

The University Chapel in the S. aisle contains 2 good pictures by Holbein, in his early style,-a Nativity, and an Adoration of the Magi; the latter very fine, especially the figure of the Virgin. It was painted for the Oberriedt family, whose portraits are introduced below.

The University, founded 1456, has only 228 students. It is the Roman Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden Heidelberg is Protestant. Freiburg is now the see of an archbishop.

Near the gate leading to Frankfurt stands the Protestant Church, an eleN. Germ.

gant building in Romanesque (Byzantine) style, with an octagon tower. It was skilfully transferred, stone by stone, from an old convent at Thennenbach, 15 m. off in the forest, to which it was originally attached.

The Kaufhaus, S. of the cathedral, is a very quaint Gothic building of the 16th cent., resting on pointed arches, decorated externally with fresco portraits gilt of the Emp. Maximilian, his son Philip I., Charles V., and Ferdinand I. The Gothic portal under the arcade exhibits a singular arrangement.

2 Gothic Fountains in the streets are worth notice. The town is flourishing from the wine and timber trade, and the manufacture of chicory. There are delightful Walks round the castle hill (Schlossberg), about hour's walk from the minster. The ascent begins near the Schwaben Thor. The eye ranges over

the vale of the Treisam, bounded in the distance by the waving outline of the Black Forest Hills rising one behind another. The filigree work of the spire is seen from this to the greatest advantage.

The beautiful scenery of the Höllenthal, on the way from Freiburg to Schaffhausen, is described in Rte. 109. A traveller, not intending to pass through it on his way to Switzerland, should make an excursion from Freiburg as far as Steig, 11 miles, to explore its beauties.

Eilwagen daily to Schaffhausen in 11 hrs., and Constance in 18, through the Höllenthal; to Alt Breisach in 21 hrs., and thence to Colmar.

[16 m. W. of Freiburg, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, stands Alt- Breisach, a decayed town, once a frontier fortress, and the key of Germany on the W., but with nothing to show its former importance save the Minster of St. Stephen, on a hill. It contains some monuments and a silver shrine, which held the relics of the martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, found by St. Ambrose at Milan, and placed by him in the Ch. of St. Ambrogio (HANDBOOK N. ITALY, p. 168.). Its chief curiosity, however, is its beautiful Altar Screen, carved in wood. The central compart

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ment is occupied by the Coronation of the Virgin, a very masterly work of art, with the date 1526, and the monogram of the sculptor, Hans Leifrink, or Leychman. The left-hand shutter bears the representation of the patron saints of the town; the right-hand is occupied by St. Stephen and St. Laurence. Below the centre the 4 Evangelists are grouped, composing their gospels. The whole is surmounted by pinnacles; that in the centre reaching up to the roof. A monument to the Grand Duke of Baden, Carl Frederick, has been placed on the top of the Eggardsberge, where once stood the Citadel.]

The Baden Railway continues from Freiberg, near to the hills, to Schallstadt Stat.

Krotzingen Stat., near which are the ruins of Staufenburg.

Heitersheim Stat. Krozingen Stat. Mühlheim Stat. Inn, Krone. About 3 m. E. of the railroad are the baths of Baden-weiler (Inn, Römerbad). The waters were known to the Romans, and the baths erected by them were discovered, 1748, in a very perfect state of preservation. They consist of 4 large and 8 smaller baths; and include a vapour bath, anointingroom, dressing-room, &c. : they are regarded as the most perfect out of Rome, and are 324 ft. long, by 100 broad. An inscription found on the spot proves that they were dedicated to Diana Abnoba. Excursions may be made to the castle of Bürglen 6 m., and to the top of the Blauen mountain (6 m.), 3597 ft. high, the loftiest in the district. The wine called Markgräfler, the best which Baden produces, is grown near this.

Sulzburg, to the N. E., was the birthplace of Schöpflin the Reformer.

At Neunburg, 3 m. W. of Müllheim, Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar died, 1639, poisoned, it was supposed, by Richelieu.

Schliengen Stat. Here an action was fought between Moreau and the Archduke Charles, 1796.

Efringen Stat. Here at present (May, 1850) the railway ends, 8 m.

from Basle: when completed, it will terminate 1 m. from Basle, at Leopoldshöhe, where the Baden customhouse is. Omnibuses leave Basle 24 hrs. before the starting of the trains.

Since Baden has adopted the Prussian custom-house system, the exami nation of the goods and person of travellers coming from Switzerland is strictly enforced (§ 32.). Luggage is examined about 3 m. from Basle. BASLE. HANDBOOK FOR SWITZERLAND. (Route 1.)

ROUTE 106.

OOS TO BADEN-BADEN

RAILWAY.

=

Germ. mile 3 Eng. miles. This railroad branches off from the Great Baden railroad at the Oos station. (Rte. 105. p. 550.) Beyond Oos the valley begins to contract, and the hills to rise on either side. On the L the old castle of Baden is seen crowning the summit of a fir-clad hill: on the rt. rises the hill of Yberg, on which another castle is perched. Both of them were, perhaps, Roman forts originally.

1 BADEN (called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from places of the same name in Switzerland, and near Vienna).

H. &

Inns: H. de l'Europe, opposite the Conversations Haus and Trinkhalle; splendid house, containing 100 rooms Table-d'hôte at 5, 1 fl. 12 kr.;—H. de Russie, clean and good; Angleterre, the most fashionable, excellent house; -H. de France;Badenscher Hof (much frequented by the English), good; excellent tabled'hôte; - H. du Rhin; Zähringer Hof; H. de Hollande. There are many other inns, and nearly of the houses in the town are let as lodgings, but d not provide dinners. The Sonne and Blume are respectable establishment of this class. The price of rooms varies according to season and situation, fro 3 fl. to 12 or 14 fl. a week. A bath cost 24 kr. 8d.; a bed, 48 kr. to 1 f. pe night; breakfast, 36 kr. Some of t inns are provided with baths, but ther is no building here appropriated exci

sively to bathing. There are tables-d'hôte in all the principal inns at 1 or 2, price from 48 kr. to 1 fl., and at 4 or 5, chiefly to suit the English, at 1 fl. 12 or 24 kr. The best wines of the country are Affenthaler (red), Klingelberger, and Markgräfler. A dinner in private, 2 fl. 20 kr. 5 francs. The price of every thing is fixed by government, according to tariff, even down to washerwomen's charges.

There can be but one opinion as to the beauty of the situation of the town of Baden, embosomed among hills forming an offset or commencement of the Black Forest range, and seated on the banks of the Oos, a stream which, though insignificant in size, once formed the boundary line between the Franks and Alemanni. The town has about 6000 permanent inhab., and is built chiefly on the slope of a hill, owing to the narrowness of the valley. The mineral springs were known to and appreciated by the Romans, who fixed a colony here, and called it Civitas Aurelia Aquensis. It was for 6 cent. the abode of the Margraves of Baden, until the incendiary devastation of the Palatinate by the French caused them to remove to Rastadt in the flat plain of the Rhine: at present the Grand Duke of Baden occasionally visits his Villa here, but resides principally during the summer at his Castle of Eberstein. Baden was once considered one of the most fashionable German watering-places (§ 41.). During the season Princes may be met with in abundance, but are usually outnumbered by blacklegs. The influx and concourse of visitors has greatly increased of late, and, in consequence, the number of new inns and other buildings has multiplied proportionately, but the place is falling of in respectable society. It has the attraction of being by far the most beautiful of the baths of North Germany in its situation; even surpassing in this respect the Brunnen of Nassau. The surrounding country, without the sublimity and grandeur of Switzerland, is distinguished by a pleasing and romantic wildness; it is, as it were, a prelude to the Alps. The

neighbourhood will afford almost endless gratification in the beauty of its prospects, and the number and variety of the rides and walks, cut for miles in every direction through the forests, and up the surrounding hills.

Whatever be the taste or disposition of the traveller, he will assuredly find something to please him here. There are saloons, promenades, balls, concerts, gaming-tables and other luxuries of a capital; and, on the other hand, 20 different paths, leading in 10 minutes into the depths of dark woods or deep valleys, where he may enjoy solitude so complete that he may fancy himself far from the haunts of men. From the number of woods and avenues around, the invalid may enjoy a shady walk at all hours, even in the height of summer. The months of July and August are the season when the baths are most frequented, but visitors are constantly coming and going from May to October, if the weather be fine. As many as 32,000 persons in the season of 1845 resorted to the baths. The number of English visitors increased so much of late that the place assumed the appearance of a settlement of our countrymen. This influx had the effect of diminishing its advantages of cheapness and retirement, as within a few years the price of every thing was raised nearly one half. Now however (1850), owing to over building, and a falling off in the number of visitors, arising from the recently disturbed state of Baden, prices have declined. After October the soil and climate are extremely damp; the grassy banks are oozing with water, which the granitic substratum will not absorb, and the hotels and lodging houses suffer greatly from moisture.

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The Hot Springs (13 in number) burst out of the rocks at the foot of the castle terrace, called Schneckengarten, behind the parish church. That part of the town goes by the name of Hell," and in the coldest weather snow never rests upon it. Neither summer nor winter produces any variation in the temperature of the springs. The hottest are 54° Reaum., the coldest 37°. Water from them is conveyed