who had come to Greece, though nobody asked them or wanted them. I would not have my coat cleaned, but left it filthy and clotted with blood, that I might show the prince, at Corinth, how I had been treated. I began to recover, with the assistance of broths and nutricious food, and I now thought my sufferings from illness were at an end. I was dreadfully mistaken-they were only beginning; for I suffered more in my convalescence than I had done in my illness. This fever always vents itself in some of the extremities. It seized on my feet, which swelled up in a moment. I had a most violent fit of pain, which lasted twelve days. Mauro Amato procured me a mat, or hassock, to lie on; although it was very hard, to me it appeared a feather bed, accustomed as I was to lie upon boards. After the twelfth day the pain began to abate, but not the swelling. I could not set a foot to the ground. My appetite, however, never failed. Colonel Balestra, who was attacked before me, and who had been attended, was still very ill. As soon as I was a little better I went to visit him; I told him how I had been treated; he would not believe it; and at length exclaimed, “Greece can never be free! We Greeks are too depraved; we deserve to be always enslaved." Whilst we were talking thus about my illness, the physician came in. Balestra, raising himself on his bed, said, "I had rather die, than be cured by you, inhuman monster-Get out of my house!" The physician began to excuse himself; but the colonel called out again vehemently, "Get out; get out!" upon which he at length went away. The colonel gradually amended, and in a short time was quite restored. At this time some primates of Candia came to invite Colonel Balestra to go to that island, and to take officers with him, as they were in great need of them. Colonel Balestra sent for me, and told me that he was determined to abandon Prince Ypsilanti; that after all the labour and pains he had taken to drill the battalion, the prince had suffered half of them to be starved. 66 Candia," said he, " is my native country; probably my countrymen will be more grateful to me. Ypsilanti is not, and never will be, capable of commanding, or of inspiring respect. I advise you to go with me. You will find things better managed in Candia." "Dear colonel," replied I, "if it were not for Prince Mavrocordato, I would certainly follow you; but I still hope that this government may be regularly organized, and that affairs may assume a different aspect." "It is impossible," said he; "the spirit of patriotism is wanting. Money is the sole object; every man is engrossed by his own interest. Do as you please, my friend; but if you stay here, you will repent it." Colonel Balestra collected all the arms he could find; sent for all the officers who were to be found with the different captains; got together a good many Greeks; and set off for Candia, without waiting for the prince's orders.

One morning I heard great cries, and lamentations of women; the men were all running with arms in their hands; I thought it was some fresh dispute, but I was mistaken again; it was the Turks, who had made a sortie from Napoli, and were approaching Argos.Mauro Amato immediately collected all his property; by paying high he got some horses, and we set out for Corinth, in dread of being overtaken by the Turks. I imagined affairs were in a more settled state in Corinth; that the government had assumed some regular

form; and that all the Europeans were employed. I therefore mounted my horse in good spirits, and thought no more of the Turks, as I had remarked that their sorties had no other object than that of seizing provisions, and when that was attained they did not attempt to pursue the Greeks. The road lay by the side of a low wall, which served to protect the neighbouring fields from the quantity of breccia brought down by the winter torrents. We traversed this vast plain. After riding two hours we came to the village of Cravati. We were now so far from Argos as to have lost all fear of the Turks; I therefore prayed my friend, Mauro Amato, to halt in this village, that I might gratify the strong inclination I felt to visit the tomb of Agamemnon. As he had the same desire, we left our baggage in the house of a countryman of his acquaintance, whom we begged to prepare us something to eat at our return. We first climbed to see the ruins of Mycene, after which we soon reached the tomb of Agamemnon. This monument is in a style of Egyptian simplicity. It consists of large masses of stone, piled one upon another; and a large circular stone forms the dome. The door is of a remarkable construction, wider at the top than the bottom. The holes are visible, in which the hinges were fixed for the iron rails. The stone which encloses the architrave is twenty-two feet long, and twenty wide; above it is a triangular aperture. There is a little door in the inside, opening into a cave cut in the mountain, which was the actual place of sepulture. I found a number of names, of all nations, inscribed; among them were some of my acquaintance. This brought back to my mind the delights and conveniences of Europe; I reflected on what I had lost, without meeting with the slightest return for the sacrifice I had made. All that I had endured, all that I should probably have to endure, rushed to my mind in a moment. As I was standing buried in these thoughts, my companion came and woke me from my dream, by urging me to go, that we might reach Corinth that evening.

We left the tomb; but before I had got above a quarter of a mile I recollected that I had not inscribed my name; I would return, to do as other travellers had done. Leaving the tomb again, we climbed a hill to visit the citadel, situated upon a rock separated from Mount Tricorsa by a lofty precipice. We passed several ancient Turkish tombs, and arrived near the gate of the Lion, so called from a large stone over it, upon which were carved two lions, standing face to face, separated by a column. The entrance to the Acropolis is built in the manner of most antique fortresses, with a little gate leading down to the foot of the mountain. The walls were still in good preservation. In the interior there is nothing remaining worthy of observation. We ascended to the top of the hill, which commanded a magnificent view of the vast plain of Argos, Napoli, and the Morea. I called my companion to admire the situation, and the beautiful scenery around. "What a country," exclaimed I," if it were cultivated, and the inhabitants civilized!" Though he was a Greek, he had been educated in Italy, and knew something of the world. "My friend," said he, "till the people are perfectly regenerated, nothing good is to be expected from Greece; we are totally corrupted." I was astonished to hear a Greek speak in such terms

of his country. I embraced him, saying, I respect your sincerity. We continued talking on this subject till we reached the village again, when we made a plentiful repast.

We continued our way; and passed near a stream of the water of Rita. The murmur and rapidity of the water, the fragrance of the orange and lemon trees, and the hedges of myrtle, recalled to my mind the most beautiful gardens of Europe; but when I recollected that nature is here unassisted by the culture to which ours are indebted for so much of their beauty, I knew not how to admire them enough; and almost wished to remain for ever in this spot. We passed near the village of Saint Basil, in which there is a modernized antique fortress. We left the village of Nemea on our right; we followed the course of the little river Clégia for two hours; it turns several mills. We now caught sight of the fortress of Corinth. It stands on a magnificent elevation, and is well fortified; nevertheless, as we knew that the Turks were in want of provisions, we exulted in the persuasion that we should soon enter it. Whenever the Turks saw any number of men passing through the plain of Corinth, they fired upon them. They were, however, too far off to do any harm, and only showed us that they were not asleep. I heard the noise of cannonading, but my attention was too much absorbed by the number of broken columns, and other antique fragments, to heed it. I could think of nothing but Corinth in her glory. On our arrival in the . market-place of Corinth, a number of officers who were walking about came up to us, from curiosity; I was so emaciated no one knew me. I then called two or three of them by name, and made myself known.. I cannot express their surprise at seeing me. It had been reported that I had died a month ago. They all invited me to their respective lodgings; but I refused. I wanted to find my comrades with whom I came to Greece, that I might reproach them for the manner in which they had abandoned me. I was conducted to the house they occupied, where I found some of them eating. I cannot express the joy and surprise they were in at the sight of me; they all thought me dead. I reproached them for their conduct to me. They replied, that having recommended me to the care of Colonel Tarella, and left me two men to wait upon me, they thought they had provided for my wants. They told me that some of our companions were weary of suffering, and had returned to Europe. I asked them for my arms; they told me they had committed them to the care of the soldiers who were to attend me. I then related to them what sort of attendance I had received; and that I had seen nothing more of these soldiers. I cannot describe the mortification I felt, at finding myself without either arms or the means of procuring others, at a time when I stood so much in need of them; but as I saw there was no remedy, and that I had nothing to do but to arm myself with philosophy against all the numerous evils that awaited me, I suppressed my indignation, and sat down to eat with them. We drank to the cause of liberty, and to my complete restoration, and banished the thought of past miseries. Many of my comrades who knew that I had arrived in Corinth came to see me, and to congratulate me on my recovery, as all had heard of my death. The following day I went to call on Prince Ypsilanti, He was astonished at the sight of me; and expressed his joy at my

recovery. I told him, in few words, that officers who came to Greece to serve in her cause, ought not to be abandoned as I had been; and that he ought not to have quitted Argos without making some provision for the numerous sick whom he left there; and that the duty of watching over them devolved upon him, as head of the government. I was so warmed by the recollection of all that I had endured, that I forgot I was speaking to Prince Ypsilanti. At length he rose, and said abruptly, that these were not the terms I ought to use in addressing him; that if I was not acquainted with military discipline, he would teach it me; that I was not necessarily acquainted with the orders he had given; and that if they had not been executed, it was not his fault. On this I turned on my heel, and said, "A man who cannot make himself obeyed, has no business to assume command." I returned to the lodging, and repeated to my comrades the conversation I had had with the prince; they were all delighted at it. The misery of the troops continued; the battalion was in want of every necessary; and the officers no longer received any rations. Colonel Tarella, who had taken the command instead of Colonel Balestra, was obliged to dispatch thirty or forty men into the surrounding villages, to take whatever they could lay their hands on. They went to the mills several times, and took away the subsistence of poor families; but what could they do? As the primates would give nothing, all followed their example, and refused. At all times, and in all places, I have always seen that the poor are the victims. The rich and powerful find means to avert danger and suffering.

The citadel of Corinth occupies the summit of a hewn rock, at the foot of which stands the city; the road to the citadel is very steep and bad; the gate is defended by three rows of elevated fortifications, built by the Venetians, and strongly guarded with artillery. On all other sides, as the Turks think, it is so well fortified as to guard itself; it would be very difficult to storm it. The Turks had only eight hundred men, who were obliged, by the extent of the fortress, to be continually under arms. The Greeks had brought two twelve-pounders, which were posted on a mountain higher than the fortress. They kept up a constant fire, which rather annoyed the Turks; every sort of communication was cut off, and a rigorous blockade established. We were now in the month of January, so that the cold was severe on the bivouac. We officers were by no means obliged to bivouac, as we had received no orders nor appointments. Nevertheless, that the Greeks might not have it in their power to say we were lazy, we passed the nights among the mountains, hoping that, after the surrender of the fortress, we should be organized. At this time Prince Ypsilanti fell dangerously ill. It was before the taking of Corinth, and not, as some writers have reported, after that event, from grief at having been unable to keep his word with the Turks. On the contrary, he was recovered when the fortress surrendered.

I shall relate an anecdote which shows the wretched state of the battalion, The prince being, as I have just said, ill, the dinner for his suite, and some superior officers, was prepared daily, as usual. At the door of the dining-room there was a centinel; a servant came by him with a dish of fricassee in his hand, which had a very savoury smell. The poor fellow, who was worn out with hunger and fatigue,

no sooner smelt this than he fainted, and fell flat on his face. The officers immediately rose from table, to see what was the matter. Colonel Tarella happened to be at table, and had him raised up, and led to a seat. After rubbing his temples with vinegar, he recovered a little. The colonel asked him what was the matter. He replied, that he had not eaten for twenty-four hours; and that the smell of the food had made him faint. The prince's suite, composed entirely of Greek merchants, who had been established in Europe, and had hastened back to Greece only to seize on all the highest offices, and to eat and drink without troubling themselves about the people, who were dying of hunger, turned their backs on the poor soldier, ordered him to be exchanged, and desired the colonel to come and finish dinner. "What!" cried he indignantly, can you return to your dinner, while our comrades are actually dying of hunger? You have all plenty of money in your purses; I have been five months in Greece without receiving a farthing, and I am now entirely destitute of resources, having maintained the battalion for many days. I had not the heart to command it in such a state; to make it pass the nights in bivouacing without food or clothing. You sleep while these poor fellows watch; eat while they fast. This is your patriotism; for this you came to Greece; and can you endure to abandon this man in the state in which you see him? I have but one sequin in my purse; but I must give it to buy food for the twenty men who are on guard before your highness's house." Saying this, he called the foriere, and gave him the sequin, ordering him to buy food, and then to go into the country, and without favour or affection to take whatever they could find, and bring it to his house, and divide it among the battalion and the officers, who were generally without food. The colonel left the prince's house and his unfinished dinner, exclaiming, "To what a country am I come!" The Greeks had not even pride or sense of honour enough to be offended at what he said; they returned to their dinner with perfect indifference. Kiamil Bey, governor of Corinth under the Turks, was in Tripolitza when it was taken: he was extremely rich, being proprietor of an immense extent of country; indeed he was regarded as the richest bey in the Morea. As he was in Tripolitza during the blockade, he could not return to Corinth to shut himself up in the citadel, and was threatened by Colocotroni with death, if he did not cause the surrender of Corinth. Kiamil Bey endeavoured to gain time before he gave a definitive answer, in the hope that the town would be relieved. Colocotroni, on his side, wishing to appropriate all the riches of Kiamil Bey to himself, began to affect great friendship for him.

When Ypsilanti came to Corinth, Colocotroni, who kept Kiamil Bey in his house, delivered him up to the prince, in the hope of obtaining the surrender of the fortress by promises. When he returned to Corinth, being still greedy of plunder, he began to urge Kiamil Bey to fulfil his promises. The bey's wife and mother were shut up in the citadel, and indeed commanded there in his absence. Colocotroni forced him to write to them to surrender, and to promise them favourable terms from the Greeks. Kiamil Bey, who knew what dependence was to be placed on Greek faith, and still hoped for succour, bribed a Greek soldier to take a letter secretly to his mother, in which he desired her to pay no attention to what he had said in