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Frankfurt to Limburg crosses them. There is a carriage road direct from Wiesbaden to Königstein through Eppstein, quite practicable even for a heavily laden German carriage, though it is bad in some places. The part between Nauroth and Bremthal is bad after wet weather. The other roads are scarcely practicable for an English carriage, though passable, with some difficulty, for a light German calèche. The best mode of exploring this country is on horseback or on foot, as the beauties of many of its valleys will be lost to those who confine themselves to carriages and the high roads. Those who do not mind jolting over rough roads may indeed approach them in a country car, and then with the aid of a guide penetrate into their recesses on foot.

Pedestrians may explore the finest parts of this fertile and picturesque hill-country district in 2 days, by adopting the following course. Take the Taunus Railway (Rte. 99.) to Hattersheim Stat., walk thence to Hofheim (2 m.), ascend to the chapel (hour's walk) to Eppstein (5 m.), visit the castle ;-to Königstein (5 m.). In the evening explore the castle, and Falkenstein. Early next morning ascend the less and greater Feldberg (5 m. .), then walk to the Altkönig (4 m.), back to Königstein (4 m.), dine there. In the afternoon take the diligence to Soden, whence a branch railway runs to Höchst. (p. 520.)

At Hattersheim a tolerable country road, but destitute of shade, turns off to the N. W., and leads to the pretty village of Hofheim (2 m.). The chapel on the height commands a view which will well repay the trouble of ascending to it. The valley of Lorsbach, above Hofheim, as far as Eppstein (5 m.), is very beautiful indeed.

The family of Eppstein seems nearly as old as that of Nassau; many of its members were chancellors of the emnpire and archbishops of Mayence. One of them crowned the Empr. Fredk. Barbarossa, at Aix-la-Chapelle, and afterwards was made Patriarch of Jerusalem. The line became extinct in the 16th cent.: several of their monuments still exist in the village church. The castle now belongs to a gentleman of taste and knowledge of antiquities, who takes care of it, and has planted the little terraces with flowers, and made every part accessible. The castle is cut off from the mountain by a deep dry trench, evidently artificial.

"The

Königstein is about 6 m. N.E. from Eppstein; the way thither lies through the pretty vale of Fischbach. whole landscape, the hanging woods, variously tinted by autumn, the jutting rocks, the sombre sequestered recesses in the glen, and the lonely stillness which pervaded the scene, sometimes reminded one of some of the least wild of Salvator's romantic scenes, or of the cool and lovely valleys of Gaspar Poussin.". Autumn near the Rhine. From Fischbach to Schneidhain the way lies across the open table land,— thence it ascends to

Königstein.—Inns: Post, or Stadt Amsterdam, good; the landlord has a trout stream: Löwe (Lion), which has a garden attached to it. This vil lage is a post station on the high road from Frankfurt to Limburg. Above it, on the height, rises the ruined Castle of Königstein, a modern fortress with bastions and casemates, engrafted on & feudal stronghold of the middle ages with battlements and watch-towers. It belonged originally to the Counts of Falkenstein, and afterwards to the Barons of Eppstein; was taken by Eppstein (Inn, The Oil Mill), de- Gustavus Adolphus in the Thirty lightfully situated at the junction of 4 Years' War, and by the French, who valleys. The wild and sequestered dismantled it and blew up its works village is wedged in a narrow defile in 1796. There is a fine view from between rocks and mountains. The it over the valleys of the Main massy towers and donjons of the old and Rhine, while the neighbouring baronial castle, perched like an eagle's castles of Falkenstein and Kronberg mest on the most accessible point of rock, are most picturesque objects in the overhang it. foreground.

An excellent carriage-road goes from Königstein to Soden, whence there is a branch railway to the Höchst station on the Frankfurt and Mayence Railway. Those who travel on foot, or who do not mind rough cross roads, may continue on to the Falkenstein, about a mile N. E. from Königstein. This bold and picturesque ruin is an imposing relic of a feudal stronghold and baronial residence of the days of chivalry, and the exquisite view from it renders it one of the most interesting points of the tour. It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a noble family named Nuringen, before it was added to the possessions of the house of Nassau.

A young knight, named Kuno of Sayn, once paid his addresses to a fair daughter of the lord of this castle: he was beloved by her, but found no favour with him; on the contrary, he sternly rejected the lover's suit, and in order to put him off entirely, told him he should have his daughter for wife if he made, in a single night, a road up to his castle (previously accessible only on foot) which should be practicable for horses or carriages. The old lord looked upon this as an impossibility; SO did every one else, except Kuno. He summoned his head miner, but he also declared it useless to make the attempt. He then repaired to an elf or cobold, who promised to achieve the task, provided Kuno bound himself to leave him in unmolested possession of a certain quarter of the Taunus hills. This condition was agreed to. In the course of the following night a violent tempest arose, which laid low the highest trees of the forest; the castle was shaken to its foundation, as by an earthquake; its doors and windows opened of their own accord; and its inmates were terrified by a clanking as of spades and pickaxes borne upon the gale, interinixed with shouts of demoniac laughter. The first thing that the old baron beheld next morning was Kuno riding up to the gates in gallant array on his charger, along a road carried over spots where the night before there was nothing but inaccessible rocks. He did not forget his promise

to the young knight, and gave him Irmingarde for wife.

3 m. S. E. of Königstein lies the watering-place of Soden, well provided with lodging-houses: brine springs rise near it. There is a good road down the hill from Königstein eastward to Cronberg, 2 m., a village of about 1400 inhab., prettily situated, surrounded by orchards and nursery gardens. Here is another ruined Castle; its owners, a knightly family, were engaged in constant feuds with the city of Frankfurt. A painting, still existing, represents a victory gained by its barons over the burghers of the free city. There is a mineral spring at Kronthal, a little farther on, to which people resort in summer; and the Kurhaus affords good quarters.

The Great Feldberg, the highest of the Taunus mountains, rises immediately to the N. of Falkenstein and Cronberg. The summit, 2600 feet above the sea, is accessible for carriages, and is about 3 m. distant. It commands one of the most extensive panoramic views to be met with in N. Germany, including the Rhine and Main, the great cities and towns on their banks as far as Strasburg, whose spire is said to be visible in clear weather, and the mountain ranges of the Black Forest, Vosges, Mont Tonnerre, Odenwald, and Taunus.

A huge fragment of quartz rock at the top of the Feldberg is called Brunehilda's bed, from a tradition that a beautiful Frankish queen of that name took refuge here from her enemies. Upon the Altkönig (2400 ft.), the nearest neighbour S. E., and the mountain next in height to the Feldberg, are the remains of ancient entrenchments, made either by the Romans, or by the aborigines of this country.

There is a direct road from Cronberg to Frankfurt; but the journey may be agreeably extended by continuing onwards through a pretty country to Ober Ursel, where the old church is curious, and thence to

HOMBURG. Inns: H. Maillard; H. d'Angleterre, well situated; Hes sischer Hof, moderate; Hôtel Quatre

Saisons, new and large, with a table d'hote at 5. 2d class Inns Golden Adler; Engel; H. de Frankfurt. The rent of good lodgings in good situations varies from 15 to 20 florins per week for 3 or 4 rooms, and from 5 to 7 fl. for a single bedroom, from June to Sept. House rent has risen considerably within the last few years. Homburg is a small town of 3500 inhab., prettily situated on an eminence in the midst of cultivation, and half surrounded by projections from the Taunus. The discovery of Mineral Springs, partly by boring Artesian wells, has, within a few years, converted Homburg into a frequented watering-place. The waters are very valuable in cases of disordered liver and stomach. There are 5 springs: that of Elizabeth, compared with the Ragozzi at Kissingen, contains more carbonic acid than any other saline spa known, and on that account sits lightly on the dyspeptic stomach; the Stahl Brunnen, like the ferruginous water of Spa; Kaiser Brunnen, similar to the Carlsbad water; Badequelle, a salt spring like that of Kreuznach, and Ludwigs Brunnen. Dr. Prytherch is the resident English physician.

On the strength of this some French speculators have built, at a cost of 20,000l., a Kurhaus, one of the most splendid in Germany, decorated internally with frescoes and stucco work by Italian artists from Munich. It contains halls, dining (table d'hote at 2 and 5), coffee, and smoking rooms; also a reading room, where English and foreign papers and periodicals are taken in. The real destination of the building is as a gaming-house, that disgrace to the minor Princes of Germany. Let those who are disposed to risk their money inquire what is the character of the managers, and be on their guard. The expenses of such an enormous and splendid establishment must be paid out of the pockets of travellers.. About 50,000 florins are lost here annually by the public in play. By way of tickling the trouts, an admirable band, provided by the managers, plays thrice a day on

the walks, and the establishment affords great accommodation to strangers.

The chief building is the gloomy Palace of the Prince of Hesse Homburg, or Schloss. Its most conspicuous feature is a lofty detached tower in the principal court, resembling an old Scotch castle, a remnant of a former building. The gardens immediately attached to the castle were tastefully laid out in the style of English pleasure grounds, by the late Landgravine Elizabeth (daughter of George III.), but are neglected and going to ruin. Between these and the foot of the Taunus extend a succession of flower gardens and shubberies on either side of the public road, itself an avenue of fine Lombardy poplars. Beyond this lies the Park, and on the slopes of the hills are many pleasant walks and drives cut in all directions through the woods and forests around, which clothe the sides of the Taunus; so that the wanderer may penetrate for miles under the refreshing shade of the forest, and may at last find himself on the summit of some eminence, commanding the country far and wide. The salt works of Nauheim, with the interesting natural fountain, are distant 1 hour's drive N. E. from Homburg. The road runs through Friedberg, see Rte 70.

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English Church Service every Sunday.

Homburg is 9 m. from Frankfurt, p. 507. 8 or 10 omnibuses run daily to and fro, in 1 hour.

ROUTE 98.

BINGEN TO MAYENCE, BY INGELHEIM. 3 Germ. m. 163 Eng. m.

There are 2 roads from Bingen to Mayence; one along the right bank of the Rhine, the most interesting, but not a post road, described in Rte. 38., and the following, on the left bank, but at some distance from the river side. Both are traversed daily by Schnellposts.

On quitting Bingen, it skirts the base of the Rochusberg, and begins to

ascend a long but gradual eminence. Near the top stands a small obelisk erected by the French, bearing the inscription, "Route de Charlemagne, terminé en l'an I. du règne de Napoleon." From this point, and from the heights a little further on, the view is most charming, extending over the Rhine, through the whole of the Rheingau, as far as the distant range of the Taunus. In such a situation it was that Charlemagne built his favourite residence of

1 Ingelheim, now reduced to a miser able village, about 1 m. from the bank of the Rhine. Some writers suppose that it was the birthplace of Charlemagne; at least he loved to dwell here, and built himself (768 to 774) a magnificent palace, which he decorated with 100 columns of marble and porphyry, the spoils of Roman buildings, and with rich mosaics, sent to him by Pope Hadrian from Ravenna for that purpose. The site of the edifice is now occupied by mud hovels and dung heaps, and partly by a Jews' burying ground. It stood near the smaller of the two churches-the one nearest to Mayence; and the only relics remaining of it are a few mutilated fragments of pillars within the church, and a column of granite inserted in a corner of an old ruined gateway. In the church is also shown the monument of one of Charlemagne's four queens, a rudely carved stone, on which a female figure, crowned and in regal attire, is discernible. The ornaments round the stone in the pointed style indicate clearly that it is of a much later time than the reign of Charlemagne. These paltry fragments, and a few mouldering walls, are all that remain to tell where the palace of the great king stood. The other church on the side of Bingen with a tall square tower, is an interesting example of the Romanesque style.

The red wine of Ingelheim is very tolerable.

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ROUTE 99.

MAYENCE TO FRANKFURT.-RAILWAY.

4 Germ. m. 22 Eng. m. This Railroad, the Taunus-Bahn, opened in 1840, is a single line, double only in places to allow the trains to pass each other. The Terminus is in Castel, opposite to Mayence, on the rt. bank of the Rhine. (Inn, Bahrdt's.) Omnibuses ply to and fro for 12 kr. The branch line to Wiesbaden (6 trains daily, in 16 minutes) is carried right through the fortifications of Castel, passes fort Montebello to Mosbach Stat., whence a branch line (for horses) leads to Biebrich on the Rhine. Trains go 6 times a-day in 1 hour to Frankfurt. Fare in the second class (Diligences) (there is a better class somewhat more expensive), 1 florin, including 40 lbs. of baggage. Any quantity above that pays at a very extravagant rate, viz. 5 florins for 300 lbs. The transport of a private carriage is 64 florins.

A bridge toll (brückengeld) of 30 kr. is paid for a carriage with 2 horses, in crossing the bridge of boats from Mayence to Castel. Castel belongs to Hesse Darmstadt; but a little way out of the walls 2 painted posts, by the road side, mark the frontier of Nassau. The railway is carried at first along the rt. bank of the Main, along the slope of the vineyards. About 4 m. on the road is

Hochheim Stat., a village on the summit of a hill of moderate elevation. In its immediate vicinity, and along the sunny banks sloping down to the Main, for a space of 3 m., are the vineyards which produce the wine called Hock, · -a name improperly given by the English to Rhenish wines. The best wine is grown in the vineyards below the church, which are sheltered from cold winds by the houses of the town. They were anciently the property of the Chapter of Mayence, or Domdekaney, but now belong to the Duke of Nassau, and are highly valuable. The narrow strip of ground upon which the railway passes through them was very costly.

Flörsheim Stat.

2 Hattersheim Stat.

Höchst Stat., on the Nidda, which is crossed by a bridge. The chief building in it is the deserted Palace of Bolongaro, a rich tobacconist, erected in the last century. Railway from this to Soden (3 m.) at the foot of the Taunus, and diligence thence to Königstein. (Rte. 97.) The Feldberg, the highest of the range, and the Castle of Falkenstein at its foot, are visible near this. The boundary of the territory of Frankfurt is marked by an ancient watchtower on the post-road to the left.

2 FRANKFURT A M. (Rte. 95.) Terminus, outside the St. Gallus Thor.

ROUTE 100.

and Pariser Hof; Pfälzer Hof; Adler. A poor though populous town of 9003 inhab., belonging to Prussia, in a picturesque situation, which has lately risen into great repute as a wateringplace, so that the accommodation is scarcely adequate to the number of viKreuznach is much resorted sitors.

THE VALE OF THE NAHE. BINGEN TO spot.
KREUZNACH AND SAARBRÜCK.

18 Germ. m. = 863 Eng. m.

A post road, macadamised as far as Sobernheim. Schnellposts daily to Saarbrück by Kreuznach and Birkenfeld. To Treves daily, in 14 hrs. Omnibuses 6 times a day between Bingen and Kreuznach for 10 Sgr. The most beautiful scenery of the Nahe is confined to the vicinity of Kreuznach and Oberstein. A carriage with two horses may be hired from Bingen to Kreuznach and back in one day (26 m.), for 6 or 8 florins, including the drive to Münster am Stein (2 m. beyond Kreuznach), in order to visit the Rheingrafenstein.

The Nahe pours itself into the Rhine at Bingen, through a portal formed by the Rochusberg on the rt. side, and the Rupertsberg on the left, after a course of scarcely 60 miles, during which it bathes the territories of 5 different sovereigns Oldenburg, Hesse Homburg, Prussia, Bavaria, and Hesse Darmstadt.

The road runs along the 1. bank of the Nahe, which is Prussian; the rt. belongs to Darmstadt: it passes the villages of Munster, Laubenheim, and Brezenheim, before it reaches

to on account of its cold Saline Spring, situated on an island m. above the town. A careful analysis has dis covered the existence in the water of iodine and bromine in small quantities. It has been found singularly beneficial in scrofulous cases, and the resort to it is rapidly increasing; the number of visitors exceeds 3000 annually. A Kurhaus and Baths are erected near it within a grove of acacias, and an avenue of poplars leads to the There are also brine baths here. The ruined choir of the Ch., near the bridge, is picturesque and of a good style (date 1332). A good view of Kreuznach may be had from the pleasure ground on the top of the Schlossberg. In 1632, Kreuznach was taken by assault by the troops of Gustavus Adolphus. A party of English volunteers serving under him was most instrumental in its capture. The attack was led by Lord Craven, the champion of the Queen of Bohemia; and not only he, but every English officer present, was wounded on this occasion. Bookseller.-Jügel, of Frankfurt, has a shop here.

Physician. speaks English.

Dr. Schweich, who

There is a carriage-road hence to the top of the Rheingrafenstein, on the rt. bank of the Nahe, which commands a fine view up the river, and may be reached in half an hour's time.

2 m. above Kreuznach, on the left bank of the Nahe, are the Salinen, or Saltworks, of Theodorshalle; and on the right bank those of Carlshalle, belonging to the Grand Duke of Darmstadt.

They consist of a collection of very long sheds, filled with faggots through which the salt water is made to trickle, after being raised by pumps 2 Kreuznach. Inns: Oranienhof, in order to evaporate it, and convert it and Rheinstein, both good; Englischer | into saturated brine, fit for the boiling.

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