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travelling is a post in 14 h. to 1 h., when the road is not very hilly. The
Travellers usually pay the postilion 1 fl. for 2 horses per post, which is quite
A light open carriage, holding 4 without heavy baggage, may be drawn by
A postchaise or calèche costs from 50 kr. to 1 florin a post.
The Wagenmeister, when entitled to be paid separately, usually receives 12 kr., and 12 more when he greases the wheels.
Charges at Inns:
Rooms on 1st floor, 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; 2d or 3d floor, 36 kr.; table-d'hôte, 48 kr. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; bottle of wine, 18 kr.; breakfast (coffee or tea, with bread and butter), 20 kr.
Mr. George Bernard's Illustrations of the Rhine and Brunnen of Nassau contain the cleverest and most exact representations of the scenes and persons occurring in that interesting district which the writer of this is acquainted with.
THE BATHS AND BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. TO FRANKFURT ON
2 EMS. - Inns and lodging-houses: The Alte Kurhaus, a huge rambling château, formerly the residence of the Duke, consisting of several compartments, called the oberer and unterer
MAIN, BY EMS, SCHWALBACH, SCHLAN- Flügelbau, the Mittelbau, and the
GENBAD, AND WIESBADEN.
14 Germ. miles =64 Eng. miles. Schnellpost, as far as Wiesbaden, (whence a railroad runs to Frankfurt), every day, in 8 hrs. To Ems, omnibus 4 or 5 times a-day in the season.
The new road from Coblenz to Ems avoids the high hills, laboriously surmounted by the old road, and follows the rt. bank of the Rhine, passing orchards and vineyards, to Nieder Lahnstein (p. 285.), at the mouth of the Lahn; and thence up its rt. bank through the village of Nievern, Ahl, and the iron-works of Hohenrain. The distance is nearly 12 m., a most agreeable drive of 2 hrs. through varied and beautiful scenery.
There is a foot-path over the hills by Arxheim and Fachbach, a walk of 2 hours difficult to find without a guide.
Lahnbau, contains nearly 300 chambers, which are let, according to their size and situation, at from 48 kr. to 8 fl. a day. A good room may be had for 1 fl. 30 kr.: the price of every room is painted on the door. There is a restaurateur attached to the house, and a daily table-d'hôte at 1, which, however, is not so good as that at some other inns. Those who intend to take up their lodgings in the Bath-house apply on their arrival to the Bad-, or Haus-meister, a species of steward, who has the charge of the establishment, and of the letting of the rooms, and who gives every information respecting vacancies and prices. The rent of the rooms returns a considerable annual revenue to the Duke of Nassau.
H. d'Angleterre, a very comfortable house for families, but dear; table d'hôte at 1, 54 kr.; at 3, 1 fl. 30 kr
H. de Russie: good. Darinstädter squadrons of donkeys are posted with Hof (Post); — Fürstenhof; - Baie- their drivers, ever on the alert for rischer Hof, in the Obere Allée, remote employers. By their assistance every from the bustle, and recommended as visitor, male or female, however feeble H. T. a lodging-house. There is a and lazy, has the means of scaling the table d'hôte at 1 in all the hotels, in wooded and vine-clad heights, and of the Kurhaus and Kursaal, and also exploring the really beautiful scenery one at 4 P. M. at the Kursaal and H. with which the neighbourhood abounds. d'Angleterre and de Russie, chiefly Every donkey is numbered; and on for the English, and more expensive fine afternoons the asses of reputation, in consequence. Britannia, formerly strength, and beauty, being in great Mainzer Haus, on the 1. bank of the request, are usually engaged beforeLahn, a quiet lodging-house; — - Die hand, and quickly marched off the field. Vier Thurmen (Four Towers), same Many persons, therefore, retain a parlandlord as H. d'Angleterre ; · Die ticular number, which they know to be Vier Jahreszeiten ; Panorama, new good, for the period of their stay at the The hire of a donkey is 40 kr. and good, on the S. side of the river, baths. and therefore preferable in hot weather. an hour; but it is better to engage the The Burg Nassau, next door to the animal for the excursion according to Hotel d'Angleterre, is recommended as the terms of a printed tariff hung up a lodging-house. The houses on the in the lower hall of the Alte Kurhaus, 1. bank of the Lahn are cheaper and which fixes the charges for all the usual excursions around Ems, whether made quieter than those on the rt. on horses or asses, or in carriages.
The watering-place (§ 41.) Ems is very prettily situated on the rt. bank of the Lahn, hemmed in between it and the cliffs of the Baederley, which recede from the water's edge only far enough to allow room for a row of houses. It is neither town nor village, collection of lodging-houses, with the Kurhaus in the midst. In front of them runs the high road, and between it and the river a long narrow strip of garden, forming a sort of terrace by the river side, and serving as a promenade for the guests. A band of Bohemian musicians, who repair hither every year, plays here during the season from 7 to 8 A. M., and from 6 to 8 P. M., to the tune of whose instruments the guests digest their potations of spawater. Six o'clock in the afternoon is the hour at which Ems appears in full glory all the world is then abroad, the promenade is crowded with visitors of all nations, and some of the highest rank, in the gayest costume. Those who are ambitious to extend their walks beyond this, unless they confine themselves to the borders of the beautiful Lahn, must begin immediately to ascend, so near at hand are the hills.
Close to the little bridge of boats, and along both sides of the river,
Ems is hot in summer, from being so shut in with hills; but the woods around afford shade, and in a quarter of an hour the tops of the hills may be scaled, whence the rambler may enjoy the purest breezes, and the most expanded views over the Rheinland. The rich woods which cover the sides of the vale of the Lahn, and the ver dant pastures which form its banks, give Ems a more pleasing aspect than Schwalbach, which is surrounded by naked round-backed hills, with few trees upon them, Ems, it is true, cannot compete with Wiesbaden in gaiety, in the splendour of its assemblyrooms, and the extent of its public walks; but the very splendid New Kursaal, built by the Grand Duke, & the side of the Lahn, contains a cafe: gambling-rooms, provided with hazardtables, open from 11 to 1, and 3 to 10. and a ball-room, supported on marbl columns, in which weekly balls ar given. It is open at all times, gre tuitously to strangers, and 75,000 florins are lost here annually by play The interior, though gorgeous, is i very bad taste.
Immediately under the Old Kur haus rise 2 of the principal Springs
the waters of which are used for drink- | ing, and likewise supply the baths. The ground-floor of the building is a large vaulted gloomy hall, which serves at the same time as pump-room and place of promenade for the guests in wet weather. The chief source is the Kesselbrunnen (116° Fahr.), and within a space railed off around it stand young girls (Brunnen Mädchen) to distribute the water to the drinkers, giving to each one his or her own peculiar glass. During the season both sides are occupied by itinerant shopkeepers from all parts of the Continent, who here display their wares in a sort of bazaar. There are hardly any other shops in the place.
In the lower story of this building are also situated the Baths - prices, 18 kr. for the common (Rondel), 36 kr. 1 fl. to 1 fl. 30 kr. for the better class. Douche Baths (i. e. a stream of water descending from a height upon some part of the body), 48 kr. The attendants are entitled by the tariff to 6 kr. trinkgeld for each bath, but this sum is now added on to the price of the bath. The Douchemeister gets 12 kr. Tickets for a certain number of baths are purchased beforehand from the Badmeister, who fixes the hour for taking them, which should be punctually kept, or the bather may lose his turn. (H. T.) The attendants are not permitted to receive the money for the bath, nor to allow any one to bathe without a ticket. There are other baths in the Steinerne Haus and Vier Thurmen.
ws over t ds whit
ete with V
he very st
or the Gra
Lahn itself, which at these places is used as a horse bath. Many jets of gas also emanate out of the bed of the stream; and one of them is so copious in carbonic vapours as to destroy life in animals held over it, in the same manner as the famous Grotto del Cane in Italy.
The waters are taken in the morning before breakfast, and after dinner. From 3 to 6 goblets in the early part of the day, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon, are the usual allowance.
Nearly every body, high or low, dines here at the table-d'hôte; the dinner hour is 1 o'clock; after which the company adjourn and take coffee on the walks, listening to the music, or amusing themselves in walking or riding. There is music for 1 hour morning and evening, the time varies according to the season.
Ems seems essentially a ladies' watering-place: it is much frequented by the fair sex, and its waters are considered peculiarly efficacious in the complaints of females. It is on the whole a quiet place; little or no raking goes on here; but dear. The public gaming-tables are not much frequented.
Another of the amusements which this place affords is the sport of roebuck-shooting in the Duke's preserves; it is easy to purchase a permission from parties who rent a portion of them.
The society at Ems is usually considered more select than that at Schwalbach, Wiesbaden, or even Baden Baden. The season begins in May, and is generally over by the middle of September. There were 4500 visitors here in 1845, while 17 years before there were but 1560.
The waters of Ems were known as early as the time of the Romans, who called the place Embasis. They are warm, and are furnished by 2 springs, having respectively a temperature of 230 and 37° Reaumur. They are agreeable to the palate and easy of 'digestion. The springs rise out of the grauwacke rock, which forms the substratum of the surrounding hills. There are many other springs here
pen at al
some on the 1. bank of the Lahn, and others rising up in the middle of the
Dr. Vogler, who is highly spoken of by those whom he has attended, resides at Ems.
ranges besides those which supply the baths; An English medical man, Dr. Catty,
Dr. Soest, a physician of considerable practice at Coblenz, who speaks English, comes over to Ems 2 days in every week, to see patients. (§ 41.)
has resided here several years. He has printed an excellent guide to Ems.
The English Ch. Service is performed on Sunday mornings at the Lutheran Ch.
The walks over and among the hills near Ems, for instance, up the Baederley, to the Forsthaus, to the Lindenbach Valley, by the silver-smelting furnace, to the ruined castle of Sporkenburg, to Balduïnstein, and in general up and down the Lahn, are very agreeable, and afford many unrivalled prospects. For short walks, you may choose the Marien Weg, on the further side of the Lahn, or the Henrietten Weg, and Mooshut, overlooking Ems, whence there is a fine view.
Kemmenau is a fine point of view at the top of the mountain behind Ems. The Roman rampart called Pfahlgraben (described at p. 505.) passes along the crest of the hills above Kemmenau, and, descending into the valley of the Lahn, crosses that river near Ems, and proceeds towards Heinrichshof.
Braubach, and the Castle of Marksburg, on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., will form a pleasant day's excursion. (See p. 285.) The carriage road runs past the Forsthaus; a footpath at the back of Heinrichsbad leads through the wood to Becheln. The return to Ems may be varied by descending the Rhine to Lahnstein by a boat, or along the rt. bank, and ascending the valley by the side of the Lahn to Ems.
A visit to the castles of Nassau and Stein, 6 m. higher up the Lahn valley, on the high road to Frankfurt, is another particularly agreeable excursion. These ruins serve as the rendezvous of many a pic-nic party. The Convent of Arnstein, and the Chapel of Winden, both commanding beautiful views, and only 3 m. above Nassau, may be visited on See Rte. 96. the same day from Ems. After leaving Ems on the way to Nassau and Schwalbach, the road passes the old walled town of Dausenau, behind which runs a footpath leading up the ravine and over the hills to Ems, descending at the back of the Kurhaus, commanding fine views. The high road follows the windings of the Lahn through a beautiful valley as
Nassau. 1 Inn: Krone. 5 m. from Ems. A chain bridge has been erected here over the Lahn, on the 1. bank of which rises the old and picturesque Castle of Nassau, the cradle (Stamm Schloss) of the families of Nassau and Orange. It was built by a Count of In the 13th Laurenburg in 1101. century the family divided into two branches, from the elder of which springs the present Duke of Nassau, while the younger is represented by The castle the King of Holland. stands on the summit of a conical rock, and a little lower down is the less extensive ruin of the Castle of Stein, the baronial seat of another very ancient family, who have held for 500 years their estates and castle on the banks of the Lahn, as a fief from the Emperor of Germany. The present owner, the Gräfin von Giech, is still of the same race, and resides in the modern château situated in the valley hard by, which is also shown to strangers, and contains ancient armour, trophies of the war, and other curiosities.
She is the daughter
of the enlightened and patriotic Prus sian minister, whom Napoleon contemptuously designated "Un nommé Stein." He had the merit of introducing into the Prussian government those reforms which have contributed largely to raise that country to its present eminence. The minister, Von Stein, the last male of his family, is buried at the village of Frücht, Sm. S. W. of Ems.
Agreeable and easy paths have been cut through the woods leading to and around these 2 ruins. The views from them and from the Gothic tower erected by the Baron von Stein on a com manding point, is as pleasing as the ruins themselves are picturesque. Strangers are freely permitted to roam about and enjoy themselves in thes In short, very agreeable grounds. day devoted to a visit to Nassau from Ems will assuredly not be consider misspent.
There is a most agreeable walk fro Nassau to Ems up the valley of Diene thal, and by Sulzbach, on the S. side the Lahn.
The beauties of the Lahn valley continue upwards beyond Arnstein (3 m.) and Limburg (Rte. 96.) along banks decorated with picturesque castles in ruins, and smiling industrious villages.
Beyond Nassau our road ascends by a steep hill, and quits the valley of the Lahn. The view from the height, looking down upon it and its castles, is most beautiful; but after that, adieu to picturesque scenes. The road passes over a bleak tract of high land, very scantily peopled, the villages and habitations in general being snugly nestled in the narrow and steep ravines which intersect in all directions this upper country. There is some fine wooded country near 2 Singhofen.
and tea, and have their dinners sent in to them from one of the hotels.
Schwalbach (in English, Swallows'brook), though within a few years elevated to the dignity of a town (population 1800), has still the appearance of a long straggling village. All the most considerable buildings are inns or lodging-houses. It is said to have been known to the Romans, and has for nearly 3 centuries been one of the most frequented of German wateringplaces (§ 41.); but until the appearance of the "Bubbles from the Brunnen," our countrymen had passed through it year after year without taking any notice of it. The beneficial effects of its strengthening and refreshing waters will secure to it in future an annual succession of visitors from our island. Already many thousand English have taken up their summer residence on the spot, each with the Bubble-blower for his guide; and Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, and other watering-places have been comparatively deserted by them in consequence.
Schwalbach, from its peculiar situation, sunk as it were between hills, is scarcely seen until it is entered. This little town, though not devoid of beauty in its position and environs, commonly does not strike the stranger with the full admiration he had anticipated from the perusal of the "Bubbles." Not that the author's descriptions are inexact, or even exaggerated, but that it requires a turn of mind similar to his own to elicit that pleasure which he derived from the objects themselves, and which his readers enjoy from his attractive and quaint account of them.
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2 Langen Schwalbach.—Inns: Allée Saal (H. du Promenade), largest and best situated, named from a shady avenue of trees close beside it. Nearly 200 people sit down daily at the tabled'hôte; in the evening the rooms serve for dancing and gaming, as well as for music-in fact, become the Assemblyrooms. Nassauer Hof, good and moderate; H. de l'Europe; H. au Duc de Nassau, clean and good. Tabled'hôte at 1 and 3; Post.
Lodging Houses: Pariser Hof, clean; H. Royal, formerly Beiden Indien; Englischer Hof, where the author of the "Bubbles" lodged. At the lodginghouses there are no tables-d'hôte; but visitors can be provided with breakfast
In order to enter into the spirit of the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can dispense with the "Bubbles; " he must take the book in his hand. Supposing every one to be furnished with it, or at least to have read it, travellers are referred to it for all general descriptions; and the following short account pretends to nothing more than the filling up of one or two points of information upon which the author of the "Bubbles" has not thought it worth while to dwell.
Dr. Fenner's advice is as much sought for as ever, and is delivered as nearly as possible word for word, as it was imparted to the author of the "Bubbles." The doctor's reputation seems to be upon the increase, if we may judge from his having appended the aristrocratic von Fenneberg (§ 40.) to his name, and from the multiplication of his portrait in lithographs and upon pipe bowls. Lest the invalids who come to consult him for the first time should be alarmed by the too sudden appearance of his solitary eye and