Luther went to school at Magdeburg, and has recorded in his writings, that while a poor scholar here, he often sang in the streets and at rich men's doors (as is still the custom with poor choristers) to earn a scanty pittance, which helped to support him. In a chapel at the W. end, singu | Prince Leopold, of Dessau,—not far larly placed between the two towers, from the Dom, is a fine walk. Beneath where the principal entrance ought it are casemates, whose chimneys proto be, is the monument of Archbp. ject through the ground among the Ernest (1495), executed in bronze by trees. the celebrated artist of Nuremberg, Peter Vischer. The figures of the 12 Apostles around it are worthy of minute examination as works of art of great excellence. A branched bronze candelabrum, and 2 chandeliers, as well as the iron screen, are of ancient work. Among other remarkable monuments is that of one Bake, a canon of the cathedral, who saved the building from destruction by interceding on its behalf with Tilly, whose schoolfellow he had been; also that of the Frau von Asseburg, who returned home the night after her burial, and lived with her husband for 9 years after her first in-drich Wilhelms garten beyond the glacis terment; a story which the sexton will not fail to tell. Tilly's helmet and gloves are shown here. Against the walls are placed tablets bearing the names of the men of Mag. deburg who fell in the War of Libera tion, with this simple heading," Aus dieser Stadt starben für König und Vaterland." In order to see the fine view of the town and fortifications, from the top of the towers 350 ft. high, permission must be obtained from the commandant; but you can ascend as far as the roof with the Dom-Custos. The Marien or Catholic Ch. is older than the present cathedral. In St. Sebastian's Church is the grave of Otto Guerike, the inventor of the air-pump. In the Alte Markt, opposite the Rathhaus, stands an equestrian statue of the Emperor Otho, with his two queens, one on either side. It is the oldest monument in Magdeburg, erected by the grateful citizens after his death (973). The Public Gardens, called Friedrich Wilhelms Garten, outside the Sudenberger gate, and by the side of the Elbe, are tastefully laid out, command fine views, and are a great resource to the townspeople. The Prince's Rampart (Fürstenwall), a sort of terrace and parade-ground running along the margin of the Elbe,named from The French republican General Carnot is buried in the church-yard outside the Krökenthor; he received an asylum here from the Prussians after being banished from France, in consequence of the restoration of the Bourbons, and d. 1823. There is a Theatre here. The Frie occupies the site of the garden of the Convent of Berg, founded 937, suppressed 1810: it commands an extensive view. For the Railway from Magdeburg to Berlin, see Rte. 62. ROUTE 67.. DÜSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBERFELD, 83 Pruss. m. 389 Eng. m. Railway from Düsseldorf to Elberfeld and Schwelm, 5 Germ. m. in 1 hr., to be continued thence by Hagen to Dortmund, where it will enter the railway from Düsseldorf to Minden (Rte. 66.). Gerresheim Stat. This old town once contained a celebrated Nunnery for noble ladies. The fair Agnes of Mansfeldt eloped from it with Gebhart Truchsess, Archbishop of Cologne, in 1582. The Church is a fine Gothic edifice, of the 12th centy. Erkerath St. Beyond this is an inclined plane, which the carriages ascend by the weight of a descending train coming in the opposite direction. Hochdahl St. is 1 m. distant from the Neanders Höhle. 1 Vohwinkel St. A few miles S. of this lies the town of Solingen (Inns: Baerischer Hof; Stadt Königsberg), 4000 inhab., famous for its extensive manufacture of sword-blades, foils, scissars, and other articles of cutlery and ironware. A branch railway, called Prince William's railway, runs N. from Vohwinkel to Steele. Near the village of Sonnborn, the train crosses the vale of the Wüpper on a bridge of 6 arches, and along the shoulder of a hill reaches Elberfeld Stat. Omnibus (5 Sgr.) into the town. The valley of the Düssel is picturesque, enlivened also by large villages and manufactories. Near Mittman (Inn, Post) is the romantic ravine called Das Gestein, in which is a cave named Neanders Höhle, from a poet, author of many hymns, who sought refuge in it from religious persecution between 1640-60: an entrance ticket to the cave is charged 2 Sgr. 3 ELBERFELD. Inns: Kurpfälzer Hof (Cour Electorale);-Zweibrücker Hof;-Weiden Hof. This is one of the most important towns in the Prussian dominions, from its extensive manufactories. It has a population of 45,000, and is joined to another town, Barmen, with 32,000 inhab., forming an uninterrupted street, several miles long. Its situation in the pretty valley of the Wüpper, is picturesque, healthy, and advantageous to its commerce, but the town itself is dirty and not prepossessing. It has rapidly risen to its actual extent and height of prosperity within the present century. Its principal manufactures consist of cottons, thread, silk, and the dye called Turkey red, which is produced here of so excellent a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton yarn is actually exported to a considerable extent from Glasgow and elsewhere, and is afterwards reimported from Elberfeld, dyed. In 1829, the annual produce of the manufactures here was valued at more than 3 millions sterling. There are few districts in Europe at present, which exceed in manufacturing enterprise, wealth, and population, that part of the Rhenish provinces of Prussia which anciently composed the Duchy of Berg. It may be nearly included within a triangle drawn from Cologne, along the Rhine to the mouth of the Ruhr, and from these two points to Hagen. The valleys of the Wüpper, and of the streams pouring into it, are scenes of the most active and intelligent industry, and their manufactures of cotton, iron, cutlery, and brass, nearly equal those of England, while they surpass our own in cheapness. The prosperity of the country is visible at every step: coal, the origin of all manufacturing prosperity, is found in abundance; water-power is furnished by the numerous streams; steam-engines have been erected every where, and the hills are covered with habitations even up to their summits. The new Rathhaus is ornamented with frescoes by the Düsseldorf artists. The object best worth visiting here, is the Belvedere (Rundschau auf der Hardt), a round tower on the top of the hill of Hardt, surrounded by pleasure grounds, a charming point of view, overlooking the Wüpperthal, accessible in less than an hour from the Hotel. Schnellposts daily to Iserlohn,- to Cassel in 29 hours. The Catholic Ch. at Elberfeld, in the Byzantine style, and the Protestant Ch. at Barmen, both modern buildings, deserve notice. Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a bridge, so that they seem to form but one town, both animated by the same spirit of industry. Barmen is a long straggling street of nearly 8 miles, with manufactories and human dwellings on either side. At every step the country displays the most agreeable signs of industrious prosperity,-indeed this portion of the Duchy of Berg may be looked on. as one vast workshop. It is the most populous district of Prussia; the number of inhabitants is calculated at 18,000 to the German square mile (20g Eng. square m.). Beyond Barmen, the view from the top of the hill near Rittershausen, over the beautiful and populous vale of the Wüpper, is particularly pleasing. 14 Schwelm.-Inn, Märkischer Hof. An active little town of 3400 inhab The vale of Ennepe swarms with life and industry. Villages occur at every few miles of road, chiefly busied in various manufactures of iron. Machetes, here called Sackhauer, for cutting the sugar-cane in the West Indies, &c., are made here. 24 Hagen.-Inn, Hagen Preussischer Adler. A manufacturing town of 3500 inhab. The road from Dortmund comes in here. Between this and Unna lie the coal-mines, the chief source of prosperity to the surrounding district. The road makes a considerable bend to cross the Lenne, approaching the small town of Limburg (Inn, Bentheimer Hof, beautifully situated), and the château of the Prince of BentheimTecklenburg-Rheda, which is in a very picturesque situation. At the point where the Lenne joins the Ruhr, N. W., in the distance are seen the ruins of Hohen-Syburg, the old castle of Wittekind, last Duke of the Saxons, who was here conquered by Charlemagne and compulsorily baptized. After passing near the Grürmannshöhle, nearer Iserlohn, at Grüne, a colossal cross of iron is discernible. It was set up as a memorial of the War of Libe ration. 2 Iserlohn (Inn, Quinke's Hotel), one of the most considerable manufacturing towns in Westphalia, with 9400 inhab. it may be regarded as the Birmingham of Prussia, where steam engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c. are made. The country round abounds in workshops, forges, papermills, &c., is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined castles of antiquity, and romantic valleys and glens. At Hemar, 3 m. on the high road, the traveller, by turning rt. to the village Sundwich, may see the Sundwich Höhle, a cave containing fossil bones, and the Sea of Rocks (Felsen Meer). We are now in the ancient duchy of Westphalia, the country of the red earth, over which, in former times, the jurisdiction of the mysterious Vehm Gericht, miscalled the Secret Tribunal, extended. The national food of Westphalia is brown rye bread, commonly called pumpernickel, described by Voltaire as "certaine pierre dure, noire et gluante, composée à ce qu'on prétend, d'une espèce de seigle;" it is found on the tables of rich and poor, and horses are fed on a coarse sort of it, as well as men. 2 Wimbern. Inn, Post; civil people but poor accommodation.-R. T. Hence to Werl, on the high road to Münster and Paderborn, is only one German mile. The road approaches the Ruhr, and continues along its banks for many miles, crossing it at Neheim. 23 Arnsberg.-Inn, König von Preussen, good.-A town of 4000 inhab., prettily situated on an eminence half encircled by the Ruhr. On one of the gates are groups of stags and boars not ill executed. There is an extensive view from the ruins of the Old Castle, in the Court of which (Baumhof), or in a field on the left of the road to Iserlohn, the judges of that which has been called the Secret Tribunal used to assemble for deliberation. The holy Vehm numbered in Westphalia (which anciently comprehended the country between the Rhine, Weser, and Ems,) 100,000 Wissenden or initiated. This ancient court of justice, now erroneously regarded as a sort of German inquisition, was in truth only a separate jurisdiction; its meetings were held in public places, and in open day; and its proceedings were neither secret nor ty→ rannical. The words Secret Tribunal are in fact a mistranslation of the words "Separatum judicium." Part of the old castle is fitted up as a residence for the family of Hesse Schomberg, and contains some good pictures, pottery, and glass. The gardens are much frequented by pic-nic parties from the neighbouring places. At the foot of the hill lies the suppressed Benedictine Abbey Weddinghausen. Schnellpost to Münster. Pretty country to 2 Meschede, a pretty town on the Ruhr. Schäffers Inn. 3 Brilon (Inn, Post) is one of the oldest towns in Germany, and has 3000 inhab. The Great Parish Ch. was built, it is said, by Charlemagne, in 776. (?) This stage lies over a lonely heath (Thurler heide), with scarcely a house in sight. 2 Bredelar, on the Diemel. The post house was once a monastery, now turned into an iron work. The old road goes by Arolsen (23), residence of the Prince of Waldeck (Inn, Waldeckscher Hof); Volkmarchen, 1; Westuffeln, 2: but the new road, made as far as possible within the Prussian territory, skirts Waldeck, and passes through 3 Ossendorf. Beyond, however, it is necessarily carried across a portion of the Electorate of Hesse, which, in conjunction with Waldeck, separate the Westphalian and Rhenish provinces of Prussia from the rest of her empire. 2 Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse has a country-seat at Wilhelmsthal. 2 CASSEL.-In Route 70. p. 388. 2 Helsa. Near Almerode, the Mount Meissner, 2300 feet above the sea-level, chiefly of columnar basalt, is seen to the S., and it may be conveniently ascended from that place. Scenery, pretty and varied, to 2 Witzenhausen (Inns: König v. Preussen; Goldne Krone), prettily placed on the Werra, 2500 inhab. ; the last station in Hesse Cassel. There is an elegant Gothic chapel, with elaborate open-work turret, near the bridge: it deserves being drawn. "There is a charming drive along the rt. bank of the Werra, both up to Allendorf, and down to Münden in Hanover; through woods the greater part of the way. The forests in Hesse are among the finest in Germany, owing to the large trees they contain, which are no longer found in those nearer the Rhine." F. S. 3 Heiligenstadt.-Inns: Preussischer Hof; Deutsches Haus. Has 4000 inhabs.; it was formerly the capital of the principality of Eichsfeld, but now belongs to Prussia. Its Jesuits' College· is converted into a gymnasium. The Ch. of the Apostles has 2 octagonal towers, and in the church-yard is an octagonal chapel, intended apparently for a Baptistery. 3 Wulfingerode. A hilly stage to 3 NORDHAUSEN. - Inns: Römischer Kaiser; Berliner Hof; Englischer Hof; Deutsches Haus, outside the town, good.-A flourishing town of 12,000 inhab., at the S. extremity of the Hartz mountains, in a country very fertile in corn. It has the most extensive distilleries in Germany, In the Ch. of St. Blazius are two paintings by Luke Cranach; an Ecce Homo, and the burial of the young man of Nain, painted to adorn the tomb of a friend of the painter, who has introduced among the mourners portraits of Luther and Melanethon. Wolf the philosopher was born here. The walks and gardens on the upper side of the town are beautiful. There are many interesting points in the neighbourhood, such as the castles of Hohenstein, and Ebersburg. The road from hence to Magdeburg and the Hartz is described in Route 74. 11 m. Near Nordhausen begins the fertile valley called Goldener Aue, watered by the winding Helme. It extends to Rossleben and Sangerhausen, near which it falls into the Unstrut. S. of Nordhausen lies Sondershausen (Inn, Erbprinz), capital of the small principality of Schwarzburg.-S. In the palace is a small collection of antiquities, among them a bronze image, said to be a Saxon idol called Püsterich, very old. At 23 Rossla, on the Helme, 1200 inhab., Count Stolberg has a château. On the rt. of the road rises the hill called Kyffhäuser (1353 ft. high): on it may be seen ruins of a tower, said to be the remains of an imperial castle, built by the Empr. Barbarossa, whose spirit is fabled still to haunt its chambers, and some among the peasants and miners affirm they have seen him with his head resting on his arm, and his red beard growing through the stone table at which he sits! 2 Sangerhausen.-Inn, Löwe. In the Church of St. Ulrich (date 1079) is the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who vowed to build a church to St. Ulrich, provided he succeeded in jumping safely out of the window of his prison near Halle: from this circumstance he ob tained a nickname, and the saint a church. Near the town are mines of brown coal and copper. 23 Eisleben.-Inn, Goldenes Schiff. A town of 7000 inhab, on the Böse, a small stream. It is only remarkable as the native place of LUTHER. The rious churches, "which deserve elucidation by some competent architect. Many of them seem to be works of colonists from the Rhine, and are very Roman in the appearance of their architecture and masonry. In the tower of one of them there still remains a heap of old cross-bow bolts and cross-bows in a state of decay. The more modern churches of the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries are equally good, and seem to be emanations from the tasteful Gothic architecture of Münster. Some of the shrine work is particularly worthy of imitation from its richness and purity."-F. S. The Dom, a Byzantine edifice; the Wiesen-Kirche, a splendid specimen of German pointed Gothic (the altar-piece house in which he was born, 1483, and died, 1546, is not far from the gate leading to Halle, a few doors from the Post-office; his portrait is placed over the entrance. The original building was partly consumed by fire in 1689, but there is still enough of it left to give interest to it. It is now converted into a Free School for the education of poor children, and contains the cap, cloak, and other relics of the great reformer. In St. Andrew's church is the pulpit from which he preached, and some tombs of the Counts of Mansfeld. Luther was the son of a poor miner here, and the greater part of the inhabitants still follow the same occupation, working in the neighbouring copper-mercial high road from Bruges and mines. The ancient castle was the residence of the Counts of Mansfeld. The road traverses an open country bare of wood, passing two small lakes; the one on the right is salt, the other fresh. 2 Langenbogen. There are brown coal-mines near this. 2 HALLE. See p. 366. Railway hence to Berlin. Route 63. ROUTE 68. COLOGNE TO BRUNSWICK BY PADERBORN. A railway is constructing which is to turn off from the Cologne and Minden railway at Hamm, and pass through Soest to Paderborn. At present proceed by railway as in Route 66. as far as the Kamen station, then turn off to 1 Unna. Route 66. 2 Werl. (Inn very bad.) Here are salt works, and a miraculous image of the Virgin, to which many thousand pilgrims repair annually, 24 Soest.-Inns: Bey Oberweg, comfortable and clean. A singular antiquated walled town, with 7600 inhab.; reckoned the cheapest place in Germany. It contains several very cu the woes and joys of the Virgin (1437) is fine); and the Petri-Kirche, in the By. zantine, or round-arched style, especially deserve notice. During the middle ages, Soest was a most flourishing and populous town, lying on the great com Antwerp, across Germany, by Cologne to Brunswick and the Baltic. In the 15th cent. it withstood a memorable siege from Dietrich, Archbp. of Cologne, an ambitious prelate, who sought to subject Westphalia to his rule. In spite, however, of the long train of princes and nobles whom he gained over to his cause, and in spite of his army of 60,000 men, including a horde of 20,000 Bohemian mercenaries, the Bishop was compelled to raise the siege and retire from the walls, so bravely were they defended by the citizens who served the artillery, and by their wives who wielded pots of boiling pitch. Sir Peter Lely was a native of Soest. About a mile off, on the left of the road, are the salt works and baths of Sassendorf. 2 Erwitte has a conspicuous high tower. Here the road to Paderborn branches off from that to Minden. Scarcely a house is passed on this stage as far as 12 Gesecke.-Inn, Post, tolerable. The road passes on the left the Saueiche (pig's oak), and on the left the Stelper Lime. |