the shutter on the left hand of the spectator represents Christ bearing his Cross, and the preceding events beginning with the agony in the garden, are depicted in the background. In the centre is the Crucifixion; and on the other shutter on the right are two groups nearly equally important, the Entombment and the Resurrection; the subsequent events until the Ascension being seen in the background. The figure of our Saviour in these compositions is, as usual, somewhat of a failure; but in the other figures may be seen heads finely drawn and full of character. Observe the affecting scene of the Entombment, and the heaviness of the corpse round which the shroud is most gracefully arranged: also the beauty of some of the landscape backgrounds. Considering the period at which this work was painted, 1471, it is a marvel of art. It is wonderful for composition, expression, colour, and finish. The picture is only dated and not signed, but there can be no doubt of its being one of the finest works of Memling. It is in the finest state, and was carefully washed and revarnished in 1845. It escaped a journey to Paris by being concealed in the roof of the Cathedral.

The stone pulpit, with panels of alabaster (1568), and brass font (1455), are both of excellent workmanship. According to a tradition, this church is built on the spot where Henry the Lion, while engaged in the chase, fell in with a stag having a cross growing between its horns, and a collar of jewels around its neck, with the produce of which the first church here was built. The legend is commemorated in two rude frescoes on the S. side of the nave. Among other curiosities is the bronze effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining position, which adorns his monument, and a richly engraved brass, of 2 bishops who died 1317 and 1930. Observe likewise here the circular vaulting in the nave and cross, under-pinned and pointed; pews, cloister and hall, the N. porch, and the roodloft.

The Marienkirche is a lofty church, date 1300, of elegant pointed Gothic, N. Germ.

and entirely of brick, even to the reeded pillars, which are of moulded brick. The architecture and ornaments of the interior are even more interesting than at the Cathedral. The objects to be noticed in it are the Chapel at the E. end, resembling Becket's Crown at Canterbury; a handsome brass screen all round the choir; a Dance of Death, dated 1463, curious for the costumes of the period represented in it, as well as for its being painted 35 years before the time of Holbein; the organ and carved woodwork of the Burgomasters' seats; the beautiful and highly antique brass font and sacrament pans; a chapel on the S. side; and the painted glass of the windows, said to be by an Italian artist, Fr. Livi, who afterwards (1436) furnished those for the Duomo in Flo rence. They have not long been in this church, having been formerly in the Burgerkirche, which has been pulled down. They are very inferior to the windows at Florence. At the W. end is an enclosed space formed by closing the W. door, where are deposited several curious old paintings: one attributed to Wohlgemuth perhaps correctly; another is an altar-piece with double shutters. On the first pair being opened 4 paintings are seen, said to be (but erroneously, no doubt) by A. Dürer. Inside the second pair of shutters, and in the centre, are elaborate carvings in wood of figures and Gothic tracery,-all gilt except the flesh,

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representing events from the Gospel history: it resembles a Spanish retablo, and is curious. The lion of the valets de place is a clock, behind the high altar, constructed in 1405, which sends forth at noon figures of the 7 Electors, who march in review before the statue of the Emperor: each as it passes makes a reverential obeisance, and then disappears. Overbeck is a native of Lübeck, and two of his most esteemed pictures are in this churchChrist's entry into Jerusalem, painted in 1824; and an Entombment, in 1845.

The Heiligengeist Spital, a hospital of the 15th century, has a singular

but pretty W. front, and vorhalle or ante-chapel.

The Katharinen Kirche, though now a gallery, retains many altars and ornaments untouched, a good rood and old paintings. The Crypt, unusually lofty, and above ground, is laid open. The architect should visit the Jacobs and Egidi Kirchen (with the ruined Kloster).

The Gothic Rathhaus, close to the Marienkirche, was built between 1442 and 1517, but has suffered much from recent repairs. It presents its finest front to the market-place. The street entrance is by a vestibule of very neat and elegant design. The bronze figures on the door are very curious; upstairs is a gallery with good elliptic vaulting. Within its walls in ancient times the deputies from 85 cities of Germany, who composed the Hanseatic League, held their deliberations. Here were concerted those wise measures which raised the confederation from humble beginnings to a height of power and wealth, which not only enabled it to establish factories in all the great cities of Europe, including Bergen, Novgorod, Bruges, and London, but obtained for it the supremacy of the ocean, enabling it to wage successful war against neighbouring states, with an army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose powerful monarchs and form treaties with great kingdoms. The beautiful Hall of the Hansa, in which this council met, is divided into small rooms, and the Rathskeller, dating from 1443, is modernised by the Restaurateur who occupies it. The senate of the town now assemble in the lower story. The presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the title of "your Magnificence," the learned Senators are addressed "high wise," and the merchant Senators "well wise Sirs."

In the Market-place is a stone, upon which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Lübeck, was beheaded for running away from the Danish fleet.

Sir Godfrey Kneller and the brothers Adrian and Isaac van Ostade were born here; their houses are still pointed out, as well as that in which

Count Struensee lived, near the Cathedral.

The stranger should not omit to obtain a sight of the curious and well executed carvings in wood, by an unknown artist, which ornament one of the rooms in the house, No. 194. in the Schüssel-buden Strasse.

The Holsteiner Thor (Holstein Gate) is a singular and interesting specimen of ancient feudal fortification, in an unaltered condition.

The Burg Thor is a very curious and at the same time ornamental building. 1

Until the French gained possession of Lübeck, no Jews were tolerated within the town; they were banished to the neighbouring village, Moisling, which they still occupy almost exclusively.

The trade of the town, which is still considerable, chiefly consists in the export of grain produced in the neighbouring districts, and in imports of wine, colonial produce, and manufactures of its own consumption, and that of the surrounding countries. Great trade is also carried on in goose quills for pens. Great exertions have been made for the construction of a railroad between Lübeck and Hamburg: but the Danish government refuse their consent on the ground that it would be prejudicial to Kiel.

Schnellpost. Daily to Hamburg in about 6 hrs. Persons going to Berlin need not pass through Hamburg, but can join the railway at the Schwarzenbeck station, for which a Schnellpost leaves Lübeck every morning, and arrives in 6 hrs.

Persons going by steam to St. Petersburg must have their passports signed by the Russian Consul before they can secure a berth. For all particulars respecting a journey in Northern Europe, see Handbook for Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia.

As the depth of the Trave at Lübeck is not sufficient for vessels of draught, the large steamers to St. Petersburg, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Dobberan start from Travemünde, about 10 miles off, at the mouth of the Trave. Two small steamers convey passengers up and down the river, the distance by

water being 18 m., on account of the windings, and the fare 24 marks=3s. 4d. There is nothing to be seen on the river, and the passage takes about 2 hrs., and a coach will take you for the same price in 1 hour, so that the ride is decidedly preferable in bad weather. The road is now excellent. There is a ferry, but it occasions little delay. The hire of a carriage from Lübeck to Travemünde is generally 5 marks. This is exclusive of the tolls and the driver, for which 2 more are amply sufficient.

There is a fine avenue of lime trees for some distance from the town on the Travemünde road.

Travemünde (i. e. the Mouth of the Trave), the port of Lübeck, is a pretty small bathing-place, much resorted to in summer by Germans of the upper classes. There are good inns, Stadt Lübeck, a bath-house, provided with reading room and library, Stadt Hamburg; both having restaurants attached. There are bathing-machines on the shore in the English fashion (called English bath-coaches), and warm seabaths, which cost 24 schillings.

Steam-boats.-Berths may be secured at the offices at Lübeck:-to St. Petersburg once a week, from the middle of May to the middle of October; - to Copenhagen Monday and Wednesday, about 9 A. M. in about 20 hours, and to Stockholm once a week.

ROUTE 58.

HAMBURG TO STRALSUND AND RÜGEN BY SCHWERIN, DOBBERAN, AND ROSTOCK. 36 Germ. m.=172 Eng. m. Schnellpost 3 times a week by Mölln and Gadebusch to Schwerin and Rostock. The best and quickest way is to take the railway from Hamburg to Berlin (Rte. 61.) as far as

12) Hagenow, whence a branch line is open to Schwerin and Wismar.

4 Schwerin (Inns: H. du Nord: Stadt Hamburg; Deutsches Haus), capital of the Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, 13,500 inhab., is prettily situated on the Lake of Schwerin, which is 14 m. long. The Dom is

one of the finest Gothic churches in N. Germany; begun 1248, finished in the 15th cent., recently restored. The chapel of the Sacred Blood-the burial place of the Grand Ducal familyhas been ornamented with paintings by Cornelius, and stained glass windows. The monument of the Duchess Helena (1524), of bronze, was cast by Peter Vischer. The Duke's picture gallery, Alexandrinen St., No. 1025, consists chiefly of Dutch and French works, and is shown daily (except Tues. and Sat.) 11-2. The Antiquarium contains objects of antiquity found in Mecklenburg.

The Palace, a new edifice on an island, occupies the site of the Schloss, erected by Wallenstein while Duke of Mecklenburg, recently pulled down. 2 Ziekhausen on the lake, pleasing scenery.

2 Wismar (Inn, Post) has 10,000 inhab., and lies at the extremity of a bay, which forms one of the best harbours in the Baltic. Its buildings are exceedingly curious and picturesque.

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[A railway is to be carried on to Rostock, turning out of the Wismar and Schwerin line, about halfway between these places, and passing by 4 Warin, 2 Bützow, and 2 Schwaan.] 3 Neubuckow. 2 Dobberan. - Inn: Great Lodginghouse (Grosse Logerhaus) will furnish good accommodation to those who make any stay here, Lindenhof. Dobberan is a small market-town of 2200 inhab., pleasantly situated in sight of the Baltic, in a pretty country, more hilly and woody than the shores of the Baltic usually are; the woods are of beech. It is a fashionable sea-bathing place, and would be even more frequented for the sake of its quiet rural situation, were the roads better. It contains the Palace of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburgh-Schwerin, surrounded by a park and garden, and an old Gothic Church, in which are many monuments of the Grand Ducal family.

The Baths are about 3 m. off. On the sea-shore, at a place called Der Heilige Dam, from a huge bank of shingle, thrown up, according to the

story, in a single night, to protect the country from inundation, a new bathbouse and lodging-houses have been built for those who prefer residing on the spot. Refreshments of all kinds may be procured at the baths.

The great body of visitors reside in Dobberan, and drive over to the baths to breakfast. Omnibuses run to and fro. It is customary to set out at 6 in the morning for Heilige Dam, to bathe, and return by 10. At 11 the guests meet on the Kamp Promenade, and continue walking till dinner-time. The table-d'hôte dinner in the Great Dining-room in Dobberan takes place at -2 o'clock, and is commonly attended by the Grand Duke and his court, in the simple fashion prevailing among German princes. After dinner there are the amusements of the theatre, or gaming table, or rifle shooting, for those who choose them. But many will prefer a walk in the Duke's park.

The finest and most extensive view in this neighbourhood is that from the top of the Dietrichshagen.

The Gesellschaftshaus contains ball and concert-rooms, adjoining the Pavilion in which the great dining-room is situated.

Horse-races in August. In summer, a steamer every week to Stralsund.

2 Rostock. - Inns: H. de Russie; Stadt Stettin. This is the largest and most populous town in Mecklenburg; it stands on the Warnow, has 19,000 inhab., and resembles Lübeck somewhat in the antiquity of its buildings. It is the birth-place of General Blücher; his statue of metal is placed in the square named after him, Blücher's Platz. The house in which he was born, 1742, still exists in the Alt-bettel-monchs-strasse. The great Ch. of St. Mary is very light and tall, date about 1300; its curious brass font is probably older. Inscriptions on each side of S. door in low German and Latin barely intelligible. The house in which Grotius died is in one corner of the market-place, close to the Rathhaus.

The Rathhaus, with its 7 towers, is a singular building, resembling that of

Trains

Railway from Haarburg. twice a-day, in 4 or 5 hrs., to Lehrte. The country over which it passes is desolate and monotonous, chiefly heath.

Steamers. 8 times a-day, in 1 hr., from Hamburg, across the Elbe, to

Haarburg (Inns: Post; König von Schweden; good), on its left bank, a town of 4000 inhab. Passengers are landed from the steamer at some distance from the station upon an island, united by a wooden bridge to the town, which they do not enter. A dock and canal have been constructed to admit vessels to pass from the river up to the station of the Railway. In 1813, the French, under Marshal Davoust, connected Hamburg with the outworks of Haarburg by a chaussée across the island of Wilhelmburg, wooden bridges being thrown over the marshes. This work was much overrated, and was removed as useless in 1818. The French bridge was not thrown over the Elbe itself, the N. and S. arms of which were passed by ferries. The view from the Schwartze Berg, behind Haarburg, is fine. Winsen Stat.

Celle Stat. · Inn, Hanoverische Hof; Sandkrug. A town of 10,000 inhab., on the Aller, in the midst of a sandy plain. The Royal Palace, lately repaired, has a fine chapel. In the French garden stands a mediocre monument to Matilda, Queen of Denmark, sister of George III., who died here. The ancient Parish Ch. contains the burial vault of the house of BrunswickLüneburg. From one of its dukes, Ernest of Celle, who is buried here, the two houses of Hanover and Brunswick, including the Royal Family of England, are descended. The King of Hanover has a splendid Stud here. Burgdorf Stat.

Lehrte Stat.Here 4 lines meet, from Haarburg, Hildesheim, Hanover, and Brunswick, and passengers are transferred from one train to another: they must therefore take care that they get into the right one. For the route from Lehrte W. to Hanover, or E. to Brunswick, see Rte. 66. The railway runs southward to HILDESHEIM STATION, Rte. 72.

architecture, furnished in a moderate style, and containing some very poor paintings by Tischbein. In one of the outhouses of the palace is a gallery of pictures, some of which bear great names; but it is difficult to fix on any which make the collection worth a visit. Near the palace is a beautiful garden and park, and the Church of St. Lambert. Communication between Oldenburg and Bremen is kept up in summer by steamers, and considerable works have been executed on the Weser below Bremen, in order to increase the depth of water. A small steam-boat leaves Oldenburg early in the morning, and descends the Hunte to Elsfleth, where the passengers are transferred to larger boats, going up to Bremen and down to Bremerhafen: having received the passengers who have arrived from those places, it returns to Oldenburg. The steamer which meets that from Oldenburg at Elsfleth leaves Bremen early in the morning.

The line is carried across the marsh land on the north of the Elbe through the district of Vierland (four lands, so called from its having 4 villages), remarkable for its market gardens, and the picturesque costume of its peasantry, who are believed to be the descendants of a Dutch colony.

2.1 Germ. m. Bergedorf Stat.-A village on the confines of the Hamburg territory.

The country traversed is, for the most part, entirely flat. It is a portion of that great plain of sand which extends almost uninterruptedly from Holstein to St. Petersburg. Generally speaking, it has a character of extreme barrenness, producing little but heath and scanty plantations of fir. The whole of this vast plain is scattered over with rounded fragments of slate and granite rocks, such as nowhere exist in situ between the Elbe and Baltic, nor anywhere nearer than the mountains of