garden; also a library with 160,000 volumes and 6,000 MSS., founded by Benedict XIV.: it is open almost every day.

The great linguist, Cardinal Mezzofanti (born at Bologna, 1774, the son of a carpenter), was chief librarian before his removal to Rome. He spoke fifty languages fluently, and was able to express himself in seventy-eight. In English, for example, he spoke not only good English, but good Somersetshire or Yorkshire, and he could criticise Hudibras and Shakespeare; and then turn off to some other language and converse in it with the same readiness.

Various colleges were founded at different times for foreign nations-as the Collegio di Fiamminghi, for Flemish students; Collegio di Luigi, for French students; the Venturoli College, for Hungarian students (now for students in architecture); but the only one that survives is the Collegio della Nazione Spagnuola, founded 1364, by Cardinal Albornoz, next to S. Clemente Church. It has a library with 300 MSS., and Baguacallo's Clement VII. crowning Charles V.

A Liceo Filarmonica, or Philharmonic Academy, near S. Giacomo Church, founded 1666, by V. Caratti, was revived in 1805, and became a school of music, directed by Rossini. It has a Musical Library of 17,000 volumes bequeathed by Father Mantini, a composer of the seventeenth century. Rossini's house is in Via Maggiore, marked by a punning gilt inscription from Cicero-"Non domo dominus, sed domino domus." It was built for him in 1825.

PALACES.-Among the private palaces at Bologna are the following. (Of several the collections are dispersed, and some have collections to sell):Palazzo Albergati, in Strada di Saragossa, built in 1540, by B. Peruzzi.

Palazzo Aldobrandi, in Strada Galliera, rebuilt in 1748. It has a fine staircase.

*Palazzo Bacciocchi, otherwise Gabrinsky, was built by Palladio, and was the seat of Princess Elisa Bacciochi, Napoleon's sister. In 1846 the Papal authorities wrote to their agent at Poretta to say that a stranger, travelling as "Colonel Crawford," but known to be a son of Jerome Bonaparte, had appointed to meet a son of the Princess at Poretta; and his description was given in the following style: Age, 38; height, 1-66 mètres; hair, chestnut; eyebrows, ditto; forehead, middling; eyes, grey and little; nose, big; mouth, middling; lips, thick; beard, brown; moustaches, light visage, oval; complexion, pale; head sunk between the broad shoulders; back, round; some grey hairs." The individual in question was Prince Louis Napoleon, afterwards emperor, who had just escaped from Ham.

*Palazzo Bevilaqua, in Via S. Mamola, built, it is said, by Bramantino, with a handsome front of diamond-shaped stones.

*Palazzo Bentivoglio, a handsome building in Borgo della Paglia.

H

Palazzo de Bianchi, in Via S. Stefano, has a ceiling by Guido.

Palazzo Biagi, or Pallavicini, in Via S. Stefano, was built by Ambrosini.

Palazzo Fava, facing the Madonna di Galliera, has paintings and frescoes by the Carracci, Albani, B. Cesi, &c.

Palazzo Grassi, in Via di Mezzo, has a fresco by L. Carracci.

Palazzo Magnani-Guidotti, built by Tibaldi, has a fine fresco of Romulus and Remus, by the Carracci.

Palazzo Ercolani, in Via Maggiore, was built by Venturoli; and contains a splendid staircase.

Palazzo Malvezzi-Bonfioli, facing S. Giacomo, in Strada Maggiore, built by Vignola, has frescoes in the court by L. Spada, Massari, &c., from Tasso's Gerusalemme.

Palazzo Malvezzi-Campeggi, in Via di S. Donato, has some tapestry by Lucas of Leyden, given by Henry VIII. to Cardinal Campeggio, when Papal Legate in England.

Palazzo Marescalchi, facing S. Salvatore, was built by Tibaldi. It has a fine Carracci.

*Palazzo Pepoli, in Strada di Castiglione, a machicolated brick pile, built in 1344, with a terra cotta portico.

Palazzo Piella, or Bocchi, near the Duomo, built by Vignola, for Bocchi, the founder of the Academy of Fine Arts.

Palazzo Ranuzzi, or Lambertini, in Via S. Stefano, built by Triachini, has old frescoes by Sabbatini, Tibaldi, &c.

Palazzo Sampieri, or Zampieri, in Strada Maggiore, has fine wall paintings of the history of Hercules in five rooms. In the first-Battle with Jupiter, by L. Carracci; second-Hercules Instructed by Virtue, by An. Carracci; third-Hercules and Atlas, by Ag. Carracci; fourth-Hercules and Antæus, by Guercino (excellent for chiaroscuro and foreshortening); fifth-Genius and Strength, by Guercino.

Palazzino Viola, or Bentevoglio, now the Orto Agrario, for lectures on agriculture, has frescoes by I. da Imola.

Palazzo Zambecarri, near S. Paolo, in Strada Trebbo de Carbonesi; its rich gallery is nearly all dispersed.

The Zecca, or Mint, built by Terribilia in 1578. The Palazzo Bolognini, near Via di S. Stefano, is a music casino and reading room.

Theatres.-The Teatro Communale, on the site of the Bentevoglio Palace, was erected in 1756, by Bibbiena; Teatro del Corso, built in 1805; Teatro Contavalli, 1814, in an old Carmelite Convent.

The Giuoco de Pallone is a good manly game, played with leather balls (pallone), about the size of a foot-ball, thrown by the arm, which is protected by a wood or metal bracelet. A large hall is devoted to it on the Montagnuola.

Short line (7 miles) to S. Giovanni-Persiceto.

Routes. To Parma (by rail), Route 18; to Mantua, Route 15; to Ferrara (by rail); to Ravenna (by rail) and Ancona, Route 22; to Florence, Lucca, and Leghorn, Route 21. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide).

ROUTE

21.

Bologna to Florence.

1st. The old route over the Pietra Mala Pass in

the Apennines, 4,100 feet high, may be taken, by diligence, 71 miles, in 12 hours.

It is a dismal spot, with a wretched inn (Del Sole), a half-ruined church, and forty or fifty cottages. At Covigliajo are volcanic cliffs in the limestone.

2nd. A much preferable route is the new one, by Railway to La Porretta Baths; thence over the Collina Pass to Pistoja, on the Leghorn and Florence line, or 83 miles in all to Florence. This line was planned by the Austrians.

From Bologna (Stat.) the stations are

Borgo Panigale 31

Miles.

Miles.

Faenza

.......

...

Forlie

Casalecchio

6

Fortimpoli

61

Cesena

Vergato

244

The line ascends the Reno to

Borgo di Panigale (Stat.)

83

Casalecchio (Stat.) Population, 2,093. Near the site of a French victory over Pope Julius II., in 1511, and of the defeat of the Bolognese and Florentines, by the Duke of Milan, 1402. At

Sasso (Stat.), the line begins to ascend the Apennines up the defile of the Reno, passing some deep cuttings, &c., to

Here the bed of the river

Marzabotto (Stat.), and Vergato (Stat.) opens towards

Porretta (Stat.) A village (pop., 2,976), in a picturesque valley of the Reno, 1,130 feet above sea, under Monte Cardo, and frequented in summer for its warm mineral Springs, which are useful in cases of rheumatism, paralysis, and diseased glands. Temperature, 90° to 100°. They are used both for drinking and bathing, and give out carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen gases, which are turned to account to light up the Baths; a discovery first hit on by a clever shoemaker of the village, Spiga by name. temperate and bracing among these sandstone and limestone bills. Hence the line ascends towards the pass to

The air is

LE CAPANE, near the Reno, which formed the old boundary between Tuscany and the Papal States. Here a tunnel is cut through the ridge for the railway; above which is the pass of La Collina itself, by which the Apennines were for a time crossed by means of articulated engines. It is a low one, only 3,350 feet above the sea, but commands a fine prospect of the hills and valleys around. Monte Cimone, to the north, is 6,975 feet high. The road descent is made by a series of zig-zags to

Senigallia ............110

Ancona..................127

This Route towards Rimini is one of the pleasantest in Italy, leading through a richly-cultivated plain, and past many industrious and cheerfullooking towns, with views of the Apennines all the way, which corresponds with the ancient Via Emilia. It crosses a succession of streams flowing down the east slope of the mountains into the Adriatic. After crossing the Savena and Idice, the line comes to

Mirandola (Stat.), and

Quaderna (Stat.), near the Romam Claterna.

Then

Castel S. Pietro (Stat.), near an old fortified castle, on the River Silaro.

Imola (Stat.), on the site of Forum Cornelii. Population, 11,372.

It was built by the Lombards, and incorporated with the States of the Church by Julius II., and is a bishop's see, with a Cathedral dedicated to St. Cassianus, in which Archbishop St. Peter Chrysologus, a native of the fifth century is buried. The late Pope, Pius IX., was Bishop of Imola. nocenzia da Imola, a pupil of Francia, who painted between 1506 and 1549, was born here. Cross the Santerno to

built by the Bolognese. On the left is Fusignano, the birth-place of Monti, the poet, and Corelli, the musician.

Bagnacavallo (Stat.) The old Tiberiacum,

and has an old castle.

Between this and Ravenna we pass near Russi (population, 7,569), the native town of Farini, one of the leading Italian patriots, of the school of Cavour. He joined in the insurrectionary movement of 1831, at Bologna, in which Louis Napoleon and his brother took part. He afterwards became tutor in Jerome Bonaparte's family, and a member of the Roman Parliament. He was the intimate friend of Cavour; was appointed Dictator of Parma and Modena, and afterwards became Prime Minister.

RAVENNA (Stat.)

"Ravenna Antica," or ancient, as it is styled by the Italians.

Population, 18,570. Hotel: La Spada.

*Chief Objects of Notice.-Dante's Tomb; Byron's House; Cathedral; S. Apollinare Nuovo; S. Giovanni Evangelista; SS. Nazario e Celso; S.Vitale; Theodosius Palace; Mausoleum of Theodosius; S. Apollinare in Classe; Pine Forest.

Ravenna, the head of an arch-diocese and a province, and became, A.D. 402, the seat of the Empire of the West, at which Honorius I., Valentinianus III., and other Emperors resided after deserting Rome. Hence this province came to be called Romania or Romagna, a name it still bears. Theodoric, the Goth, or Great, upon his defeat of Odoacer hard by, in 493, made it the capital of his kingdom, and in Justinian's time, his great general, Narses, fixed the seat of the Exarchate here. In 754, Pepin gave it to the Pope. As early as the time of Augustus it was noted as one of the two great ports of the Roman Empire, and a starting place for the East; but owing to the gradual accumulation of mud and sand brought down by the Po, along this side of the Adriatic, it is now full 5 miles from the sea, and of course in a state of decay.

It stands near the Rivers Ronco and Montone, in the midst of a wide marshy plain, covered with ruins, and divided from the sea by the famous Pineta, or pine forests, 15 miles long, which have been celebrated by Dante (whose tomb is here), Dryden, and Byron. These pines served to make piles for the foundation of the early city, and also to build vessels for its navy. Through its connection with the East, Ravenna is more Greekbuilt than any other Italian city, containing, next to Rome, a greater quantity of marbles, mosaics, &c., from Greece and Africa, in its churches and buildings. One-half of the space within the walls is garden ground.

There are five or six Gates-Porta Serrata, built by the Venetians, on the north, near the remains of their citadel (1457) and of Theodoric's Tomb; Porta Alberoni, 1739, on the east, towards the

Pineta and the sea; Porta Nuova, 1653, on the south; Porta Sisa, 1568, near this, and also on the south; Porta Adriana, 1585, on the west, adjoining a suburb on this side. Here was the Porta Aurea, of which only a fragment remains of a wall built by Tiberius.

From Porta Serrata, the main street runs through the town to Porta Nuova, which leads out to Porta Nuova, on the Ronco and Montone, and to S. Apollinare, on the site of Classis, the old port. A naviglio or canal, of 7 miles, was cut in 1737 to the new port. The Porta Sisi leads out past the tomb of Gaston de Foix.

The Piazza Maggiore, the largest open place, has statues of SS. Apollinarius and Vitale on two pillars, erected by the Venetians, 1483, with basreliefs by P. Lombardo. There is also a statue of Clement XII., and a portico of eight tall columns, which belonged to a temple of Hercules, facing the Palazzo del Governo. The Town Hall or Palazzo Communale, where the archives are placed, is also here. Near this Piazza is the Torre della Città, a square brick tower of the eleventh century, which leans like those at Bologna.

The Piazza di S. Francisco has a bronze statue of Alexander VII., 1675. In the Piazza del Duomo is a statue of the Virgin, 1659; and in the Piazza d'Aquila, a column to Cardinal Gaetani, 1609, whose crest was an eagle; as was that of the Polenta family, which long ruled here.

*Tomb of Dante, a little south of Piazza Maggiore, in Strada di Porta Sisi, near Byron's House. The great Italian poet died here 14th September, 1321, an exile from his "ungrateful Florence," and under the protection of Guido da Polenta, Lord of Ravenna. The mausoleum, designed by P. Lombardo, was erected 1481, by the Podesta, Bernardo Bembo, and restored 1780, by Cardinal V. Gonzaga. It is a little domed temple, "more neat than solemn," containing his body, with his bust, inscriptions, and other ornaments.

*Byron's House (a photographer's) is marked by an inscription stating that he entered it 10th June, 1819. He lived here, and at the house of Countess Guiccioli till November, 1821, involving himself and the lady's connections with the secret societies in plots against the Papal Government. They were so seriously committed that her family was exiled from Ravenna, and took refuge in Tuscany, whither he followed them.

Ravenna has two perfect basilicas, both dedicated to St. Apollinarius, and some round buildings, as St. Vitale, &c., all exemplifying the Romanesque style. Old sarcophagi are to be seen at most of the churches.

The Cathedral or Duomo, a short distance west of Dante's Tomb. Rebuilt 1734-49, by Buonamici, out of the stones of one founded by St. Ursus, or Orso, in the fourth century, of which the only remnant is a round slender campanile of the eighth orninth century. It had five aisles. Some pieces of the old vinewood door are let into the present door. Among the paintings are Guido's frescoes of the Miracle of

Manna, and Elijah Fed by Ravens; Bonone's Belshazzar's Feast and Camuccini's St. Ursus. There is also an ancient silver crucifix, and St. Maximinian's ivory chair, both of the sixth century.

The Baptistery, close by, is an octagonal relic, restored in 451, and supposed to have been built by St. Ursus. Two rows of arcades within, one over the other, are covered with bas-reliefs; and the walls and cupola with mosaic arabesques of the sixth century. The front is of porphyry and marble; the holy water basin came from a temple of Jupiter.

The Palazzo Arcovescovile or Archbishop's Palace, has a Chapel, built 449 by St. Peter Chrysologus, covered with mosaics and marble; also a library of MSS., and collections of inscriptions, &c.

Santa Agata, near Porta Sisi, a primitive-looking church, first built 417, with three aisles and twenty pillars.

*S. Apollinare Nuovo or in Città, in the Corso, is a regular basilica, dedicated to St. Martin (atfirst) by Theodoric, A.D. 500, for an Arian Cathedral. It has three aisles made by twenty-four pillars of veined Greek marble from Constantinople; an apse at the end; fourteen rich altars with many tombs; the bishop's seat, and portraits of prelates, &c., in the very ancient Mosaics on the walls of the nave, dating from 559. Among these are the Adoration of the Magi and twenty-two Virgins; the port of Classis, with its ships; twenty-five Saints and Martyrs adoring Christ; a view of old Ravenna and Theodoric's Palace, the remains of which are still seen near this church.

S. Chiara, in ruins, has wall paintings, said to be by Giotto.

S. Domenico, to the north-west of Piazza Maggiore. A church of the fifth century, since altered. It has Rondinelli's Annunciation; also L. Longhi's Mysteries of the Rosary, and his Invention of the Cross. Longhi is buried here.

S. Francesco, near Dante's Tomb and Byron's House, and a statue of Alexander VII. An old church modernised; with twenty-two marble columns in the nave. It belongs to the Minorite Friars, and Dante was at first buried in it, by the Polenta family. Here are carvings by P. Lombardo, in the Crucifix Chapel; a Madonna, by S. d' Imola; with tombs of Ostasio de Polenta who died a Franciscan monk; and of Enrico Alfieri, General of the Order; also an urn to Archbishop Liberius of the fourth century.

*S. Giovanni Evangelista, in the north of the city, rebuilt 1683, but founded in 444, by Galla Placidia, daughter of Theodosius, in obedience to a vow. It has three aisles, divided by twenty-four pillars from the first church; with carvings of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries over the door, paintings by F. Longhi, and a fresco by Giotto; also an altar of serpentine and porphyry in the crypt. Some of its ancient Mosaics are gone.

S. Giovanni Battista, near Porta Serrata, also founded by Galla Placidia 438, was rebuilt 1683, now converted into a hospital. Three old sarcophagi are placed in front of it.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin, close to S. Spirito, was originally a sixth century baptistery to that Arian church; of an octagon shape, with a mosaic of the Baptism in the cupola.

Santa Maria in Porto, in the Corso, near Porta Nuova, rebuilt 1533, out of the stones of S. Lorenzo of Cesarea (another Roman port in this quarter). It has an old marble Madonna, P. Giovane's Martyrdom of St. Mark, and L. Longhi's Virgin and Saints.

S. Michele in Affrisico, of the sixth century now a magazine and fish market.

*SS. Nazaro e Celso, or the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, near Porta Adriana, was built 438-40, by that Empress, for herself, in the shape of a Greek cross, 35 feet by 30 feet, under a large cupola, covered with marble and mosaics. Among these are seen the Christian symbols of that age; as, the lamb for Christ, birds for departed souls, &c. Behind the altar is the large sarcophagus of the Empress (450), which at one time held her sitting figure, dressed in robes. She was a clever woman, born at Constantinople, the daughter of Theodosius the Great. A sarcophagus in the right transept contains her brother, Honorius II.; another in the left, Constantius, her second husband. Her first was Alaric's son, Ataulphus. Two small sarcophagi are said to hold the nurses of her children.

S. Niccolò, near Porta Sisi, founded in 768. Here is the St. Monica of Cesare di Ravenna, a native artist.

S. Romualdo or Classe, near the Duomo, is attached to the College, formerly the Certosa Convent, and was built 1630. Here are Guercino's St. Romuald, S. Cignani's S. Benedict, and (in the college) frescoes by L. and F. Longhi.

S. Spirito or Teodoro, was built 493-526, by Theodoric the Great, for the Arians, and renamed when taken possession of by the orthodox party; the baptistery being called St. Maria in Cosmedin (as above). It has an ancient marble chair.

*S. Vitale, near Porta Adriana, and the mausoleum of Galla Placidia, was built 526-76 in the time of the Emperor Justinian, &c., and dedicated to St. Vitalis, the Martyr. It is usually cited as the most complete specimen of the Byzantine style in Italy, and as a copy of St. Sophia's at Constantinople. Mr. Fergusson thinks it was meant for a copy of the Minerva Medica, at Rome. It is an octagon crowned by a cupola, resting on arches, supported by a double range of granite columns below, between which are some circular recesses. The eighth space opens into the sanctuary and apse; and the whole is surrounded by a wall; so that while the outside diameter is 110 feet, the inside is only 50 feet. There is a separate gallery for women, round the upper range of pillars. The windows and arches are all round-headed. The choir is placed across one of the corners outside the octagon, like a tangent, with entrances at each end. The cupola is not made of stone, but of light earthen pots or amphora, like some other buildings in Italy, and is covered with wood.