the most charming spot on the Italian lakes (population, 2,615). Chapel at Hotel Grande Bretagne, finely situated, where Church of England service is provided by the Col. and Cont. Church Society. Grand Hotel Bellaggio, finely situated. Cadenabbia, opposite, has also a good hotel (Hotel Belle Vue); and is rising into repute. There is also an English Chaplaincy established there. The Villas in this part of the Lake (Melzi and Carlotta especially), with their fine gardens and their tropical vegetation, should be visited. Villa Vizzo was bought by Musard of the Archduke Rainier. Villas Melzi and Giulia, at Bellaggio; fee for entrance to the grounds. Villa Serbelloni is now a dependance of the Hotel Grande Bretagne.

Steamers run up and down the lake.

At Menaggio (opposite) is Hotel Menaggio. Villa Vigoni is worth a visit. Rail from Menaggio to Porlezza, thence steamers to Lugano, &c.

CAVELLESCA, a mountain village, near Como, is reached by a picturesque road, winding up innumerable valleys dotted with villages and farms. Garibaldi had encamped here, thinking the Austrian General who occupied a strong position at San Fermo would attack him. While he remained, uncertain of their intentions, a young Lombard lady boldly rode across the Austrian lines and brought him news that Urban intended to bar his march to Como, with a force of 10,000 men, while Garibaldi's corps was not more than 3,000. He at once made up his mind, took the Austrians by surprise, carried their position, and drove them in full retreat through the streets of Como, towards Camerlata and Monza.

From Chiasso (Stat.), on Swiss territory, the line is open by rail and steamer to Lugano, viâ Mendrisio, &c., and connects with the new St. Gothard Tunnel Line, which comes in via Bellinzona, Biasca, Airolo, &c. (See Bradshaw's Hand-Book to Switzerland). At the top of Lake Como, the rivers Maira and Adda fall in; one near Riva, the other near Colico, whence there is a line up the Maira to Chiavenna, in Val Bregaglia (for the Engadine). Thence up the Liro to CAMPO DOLCINO and the Splügen or Spluga Pass (16 miles), 6,950 feet above sea, between hills 10,000 to 11,000 feet high, on the way to Coire. San Bernardino or Bernardhin Pass, 7,115 feet high, lies to the west, near some good sulphur springs, in Val Mesocco, on the Coire and Bellinzona road. From Colico, on Lake Como, a line runs up the Valtellina past Morbegno to Sondrio (25 miles), thence diligence to TIRANO (way to POSCHIAVO and the Engadine, and to Bormio, near the warm Sulphur Baths, 4,400 feet high; thence 14 miles up to the Wormser Joch and the fine Stelvio Pass, or Stilfser Joch, 9,175 feet high, on the frontier of Tyrol, which is reached by a splendid zigzag. The great Ortler Spitze (12,815 feet) is to the east.-See Bradshaw's Hand-Book to Switzerland and Tyrol.

The Brianza, or district between the two arms of the lake, is called the Garden of Lombardy, and is remarkable not only for its fertility but for the

y of its scenery. The road from Como to

Lecco, across it, passes near Pusiano Lake (anct. Eupilis), and Monticello, a fine summer resort, on a ridge. Hotel: Palazzo Nara, at an excellent point of view. Parini and Arnaboldi, the poets, came from this part. In the neighbourhood of the Lecco, Manzoni has placed the scenes of his Promessi Sposi.

From Como there is a line, 18 miles, through Civello to

Varese (Stat.) Hotels: Grand Hotel Varese; in a fine situation; first-class, with 200 rooms, baths, &c.; resident Physician; Church Service. Angelo; La Stella. Population, 12,605. A good sized town, best reached by rail, via Gallarate (Route 11).

From Castello d'Azzati, is a view of the Lake of Varese, and of the Convent on Madonna del Monte, a beautiful hill. Varese is in direct communication by rail with Milan, the Lakes, Como, &c.

"This place (says Count Arrivabene) is remarkable for the way in which Garibaldi outwitted the Austrians in 1859. After fortifying Como as well as possible, Garibaldi proceeded to assault the fort of Laveno; but he had no artillery, the place was too strong for him, and the attempt was a failure. Hearing of this, General Urban stopped his retreat and suddenly moved again on Varese, which was totally defenceless and upon which he levied a war contribution of two million francs. Garibaldi hastened back, and found the enemy right in his way, occupying a strong position, near the hills of Sant' Ambrogio and the famous Sanctuary of Madonna del Monte, and numbering not less than 10,000 strong.

"So certain were they of capturing the Italian Volunteers, that on the morning of the 4th June, Urban telegraphed to Milan, that he had at last surrounded Garibaldi and hoped to have him, dead or alive, before the day closed. In fact, the Austrians had nearly turned his left wing; so that he was compelled to fall back upon Colonel Medici (who with the Second Regiment occupied the Villa Medici-Melagnano) and concentrate the whole of his forces on the narrow height crowned by that country seat. On the critical day in question, palisades and chevaux-de-frise were put up by the Cacciatori. To induce Urban to believe that he really meant to accept the fight, Garibaldi as night came on, made a great display of blazing bivouac fires, and ordered his men to march up and down behind them. The sky which had been pure and blue during the day was suddenly covered with dense rolling clouds. Taking advantage of the darkness and a storm, Garibaldi gave orders for retreat. With their bivouac fires still blazing, the Cacciatori delle Alpi passed unnoticed close to the Austrian outposts, struck along the mountain paths into the deep gorges; and arrived at Como, whilst Urban was awaiting the moment of attack."

From Varese there is a line through Gavirate to Laveno, on Lake Como.

Mestre...

77

Venice.

Peschiera

..123 .128 .1421

.1524

..156

.160

..165 Cassano (Stat.), or Cassano d'Adda, the ancient Cassianum on the Adda. Population, 5,305. Treviglio (Stat.), on the Adda, a curious old town (population, 10,326), near the ancient Pons Suresli, with a large and imposing Church, containing some pictures.

The direct line runs from here to Chiari and Rovato, shortening the distance to Brescia by 12 miles (see page 40).

[A branch railway turns off to Crema and Cremona (Route 16), passing

Correggio, which gives name to the great painter, born here 1569, the son of a builder.] BERGAMO (Stat.)

Population, 23,820. Branch rail to Lecco, on Lake Como.

Venezia.

The thrushes,

Hotels: D'Italia; larks, confetti, and fruits are excellent. Conveyances. -- Railway to Milan, Camerlata, Verona, Padua, Venice, Lecco, &c.

Chief Objects of Notice.-Fiera, Palazzo Nuova, Duomo, Tasso's Monument.

It was the Roman Bergomum, which Alaric burnt in his progress through Italy, and was part of the Austrian possessions till 1859.

Bergamo is the capital of the province called Bergamasco, and a bishop's see, &c., in an amphitheatre, between the Brembo and Serio, which flow from the Vatellina Mountains behind. It is surrounded by walls and ditches, and has a citadel,

or castle on the top of Monte Virgilio, commanding a most magnificent prospect. Its outskirts extend round the bottom of this eminence, the most populous being that of S. Leonardo. Its most remarkable building is the *Fiera. or Fair House. where an annual August Fair is held; an immense quadrangle, having three gates on each side, and several streets in it, with six hundred shops, and a fountain in the midst. Silk and other goods are sold to a large amount.

The Palazzo Nuova, or Town Hall, is a very excellent building, though unfinished, by Scamozzi. An Academy, founded by one of the Carrara family, has several good casts, and There are private collections also, belonging to paintings by Titian, P. Veronese, Tintoretto, &c. the Scotti, Terza, and other families, who live in the oldest, or Città part of the town.

The Cathedral, or *Duomo, was designed by bones of St. Alexander, its patron saint. Fontana; it contains some pictures, and the

At Santa Maria Maggiore, a half Romanesque church, are good paintings also, and the marble tomb of B. Calleone, a general of the fourteenth century, who was the first to employ artillery, on a large scale, in armies. His monument is covered with bas-reliefs. Here also is the tomb of Donizetti, the composer. The tower is 300 feet high.

In the old Augustine Church is the tomb of Father Palepino, born at Calepio, on Lake Iseo, near this, who published a learned dictionary, in seven languages. 1503.

The Benedictine Church of Santa Grata, is remarkable for its profusion of carving, gilding, and an altar-piece by Salmeggia, a native. Paintings by L. Lotti at S. Spirito and S. Bartolommeo.

There are besides, two theatres, a musical school, which has produced some distinguished pupils (as Donizetti and Rubini), and a reformatory for boys, founded by C. Botta, a priest, in 1815.

In the public Place, opposite the old Palazzo Vecchio, or Broletto, where the public library of 90,000 volumes is kept, is a monument to *Torquato Tasso, the poet, who was born here; or rather he is claimed by Bergamo, because his father, Bernardo Tasso, who was also a poet, was a native. Another native is Tiraboschi, who has written the History of Italian Literature. The castle was evacuated by the Austrians four days after the battle of Magenta. "On entering the town, Garibaldi learnt by a telegraphic message, that 1,500 Croats would shortly arrive, and a detachment was sent to the station to capture them. The trick was frustrated by an Austrian straggler, who stopped the train about a mile off, shouting with all the power of his lungs, Garibaldi, Garibaldi.' So great was the consternation of the Croats at hearing Bergamo was occupied by this Italian Teufel (Devil) that instead of going back by train to Brescia, which they might safely have done, they abandoned the cars, and took to their legs across the open field."-Arrivabene.

The people are intelligent and industrious, speaking a rough Bergamasque patois, which is

always put into the mouth of Arlequino, or Harlequin, who, on the stage, under a simple and rustic air, hides much acuteness and cunning. He is the successor of the old Sannio, or Zany.

Olive oil, wine, fruit, silk, iron, woollens, are the chief articles of produce. It gives name to the citrus bergamium, which yields the essence of bergamot. Every yard of the fertile soil around is turned to account by its enterprising population.

[From Bergamo excursions may be made to Lecco, on Lake Como, 20 miles, and up the Brembana, Seriana, and Canonica Valleys, in the direction of the Valtellina, and to Lake Iseo. SONDRIO (pop., 6,000), in the Valtellina, is about 35 miles north-east.

LOVERE, a small town at the head of the Lake of Iseo, is one of the most picturesque spots above Brescia, and was once the residence of Lady Wortley Montague. It may be reached by the lake or the road from Bergamo. It is built on the side of a wooded hill, and is watered by numberless fountains. Garibaldi had his head-quarters here when the news of the peace of Villafranca arrived. Count Arrivabene describes him thus:"The, General was not dressed in the costume with which the English eye has been made familiar, nor did he wear the Greek cap or the round hat with Puritan plume which the fancy of foreign painters generally ascribe to him. He was clad in the Piedmontese uniform of his rank, Whether in peace or war. he always gets up at dawn, and, if not prevented by duty, invariably goes to bed a little after sunset.

On hearing the news of the peace of Villafranca he offered to resign his commission, but the king would not accept it; "Italy still requires the legions you command," said the king," and you must remain."

During the war of 1859 the passes were guarded by Cialdini and Garibaldi, to prevent an Austrian corps d'armée from descending upon the rear of the allies. Here Garibaldi, with his Cacciatori delle Alpi (Alp hunters), was in his true element, and showed his great experience and daring in a series of well-conducted operations, which enlisted the admiration of the Austrian general. In their retreat to Bormio before the forces of Garibaldi, the Austrians barricaded the tunnel and blew up the bridge of Stelvio, and then retired towards the Tyrol, which, being part of the German Confederation, was considered neutral ground.

There is a short ferrovia economica from Bergamo to Ponte delle Selve, passing through Albino-Desenzano.

From Bergamo to Lecco, is now open by rail. The Stations are--Ponte S. Pietro, 5 miles, the nearest to Val Brembana; Mapello, 73 miles; Cisano, 11 miles; Calolzio (where the direct line from Milan comes in), 16 miles; and Lecco (population, 6,470), 204 miles, on the south-east arm of Lake Como. It is chiefly a manufacturing town. The bridge dates from 1335. Hotel des Tours.]

The next station to Bergamo towards Venice is

Seriate (Stat.) Population, 2,461. Grumello (Stat.), on the road to Sarnico (6 miles), on Lake Iseo, by omnibus. Then Gorlago (Stat.), population, 1,249; whence a road goes to Sarnico and Lovere, on Lake Iseo.

Palazzolo (Stat.), or Palazzuello (population, 4,129). An old medieval town, near a fine viaduct, on the Oglio, which comes down from the Iseo Lake. A branch rail of 6 miles, goes off to Paratico (Stat.), on the Labe.

Coccaglio (Stat.), population, 2,260, at the bottom of a hill, commanding a fine prospect. Rovato (Stat.), where the direct line from Treviglio to Brescia comes in.

[This line passes Vidalengo, Morengo, Romano, Calcio, and

Chiari (population, 9,341), with an ancient cathedral and clock tower. To the left is

Iseo (population, 2,151), on the pretty Lake of that name, so called from a temple of Isis which stood there. This is now united with Brescia by a line 15 miles long, opened August, 1885.]

Railway Station near Porta S. Nazzaro, about three-quarters of a mile from the town; omnibuses, 1 lira; carriages, one horse, 1 lira 25c.; two horses, 2 lire 50c. per hour. Branch rail to Cremona. *Chief Objects of Notice.-Town House, Broletto, two Duomos, Museum in Vespasian's Temple.

A healthy and bustling city; capital of the province; seat of a bishop, &c.; in a rich country near the Mella. Here the Alpine Hills fall into the great plain of Lombardy, and offer many charming points of view. A naviglio or canal passes by it from the Mella, to join the Chiese, and helps to supply the seventy-two public fountains in the principal squares and streets; besides many private ones. The streets are narrow and arcaded, but there are many handsome houses and palaces. Brescia is nearly square, about 1 mile each way; the site of the old walls being planted over. Several buildings are conspicuous, among which are the Torre dal Orologia, or clock tower, the Broletto, &c. To the north-east, on a hill, is the Torre di Pallade, or bell tower, a castle-looking pile, occupying the place.

"There are few towns in Italy (says Count Arrivabene) in which the summer and autumn can be more thoroughly enjoyed than at Brescia. The city itself is one of the cleanest in Lombardy; for it is provided with so large a number of fountains that there is plenty of water to wash the streets and houses. It is situated at the foot of a charming

cluster of hills, often mentioned in the verses of Catullus, together with the River Mella. All along the ridge of these hills, which are called ronchi, some very beautiful and even splendid Villas have been built, some of them belonging to the nobility of the city, and dating as far back as the golden times of the Most Serene Republic of Venice, to which Brescia was once subject; others occupied by rich merchants, or possidenti, whose residences are designated by the humble appellation of casini.” Nothing can be prettier than the effects of the setting sun, or the moonlight on the slope, on which stands Vespasian's Temple, now the museum.

*Palazzo della Loggia, or Town House, is a richlycarved marble building, in the style of the fifteenth century, that is, a mixture of Gothic and Roman, by Formentone and Sansovino. It has pictures by G. Campi; and one representing the condemnation of the priest, Beccarelli, for his religious opinions, 1710.

The Bishop's Palace is worth notice. Close to it is the public library, or Biblioteca, founded in the last century, by Cardinal Quirini, and containing about 40,000 volumes, with some ancient MSS., including the letters which passed between the Cardinal and his French correspondents, Aguesseau, Fleury, Montfaucon, &c.

There are also a collection of designs and models, for the study of the fine arts, a gallery of prints given by the Martinengo family, cabinet of natural history, and medals and some paintings. Among other curiosities is the Cross of Desiderius, the Lombard, ornamented with cameos.

The old brick Broletto, with its towers and battlements, built 1187-1213, offers some interesting examples of ornamented work, and has a painted ceiling by L. Gambara, a native artist. Several ancient inscriptions are let into the walls of the Monte di Pietà. Remains of frescoes may still be discerned on the houses in many streets-as Corso del Teatro, Corso di Mercanti, Strada del Gambara. The monument to the Defenders of Italy is new.

The Gallery Tosi, now the Museo Civico, or Town Museum, is remarkable for a beautiful Christ, by Raphael, painted on wood; Thorwaldsen's Day and Night; Pampalone's Child Praying; and some other relics. The Mazzuchelli cabinet of medals deserves a visit.

The Palazzo Avogadro has three halls done in fresco by Romanino, and paintings by P. Veronese, Titian, &c. This and the palaces Lecchi, Brognole, Fenaroli, and Averoldi, are all worth notice for their style of construction or private galleries of art; as are those of the families Martinengo della Fabbriche, Martinengo Cesaresco, Gambara, Bargnani, Aggeri, Calini, Fè, Barbisoni, Cigola, Guardi, &c. In the Cigola Palace Bayard was nursed of his wounds by the ladies of the house (1612), when Brescia was stormed by Gaston de Foix. There are two Cathedrals here.

The old Duomo (Duomo Vecchio), or cathedral, called the Rotondo, near the Broletto, is of stone and brick, and is one of the most remarkable

Italian monuments of antiquity. It was built between 660 and 673 by two Lombard counts, with the help of Grimaldi, King of the Lombards, and is an instance of their preference for the round style of architecture. Its outer walls are divided into twenty-four parts by well-modelled pillars, surmounted by a brick frieze of the simplest design. A peristyle of eight piers in the interior supports circular arches under the dome. "A splendid funeral mass, in honour of the memory of Charles Albert, was celebrated here in 1859 by the clergy (who rank among the most patriotie in Italy), in spite of the opposition of their Ultramontane bishop," Arrivabene.

It has a dome, many old tombs, paintings by Moretto (a native) and P. Rosa, and the ancient crypt in the Chapel of S. Filastro. Close to it is the

*Duomo of Santa Julia, a round church of later date, and a good marble pile of the Corinthian order, begun 1604 by Lanterna, covered with statues, bas-reliefs, and other ornaments. The dome is by Vantini; many of the paintings and statues inside were the gifts of Cardinal Quirini and various families. A handsome mausoleum to

Bishop Nava is by Monti. They show here a bit of the Santissima Croce, a copy, it is said, of the very cross which appeared to Constantine. It contains a curious poem in the Brescian dialect, which Sismondi notices as peculiar, The title is "Vers Bresa recitag da du Angai ae Caradar che conduse en città i legnam per la Fabrica del Dom" (a Brescian verse recited by two angels to the carters who bring timber to the town for building the Cathedral). The "Prim Angel," or first Angel, begins thus:

Omega del Siûr che ghi tata premura,
Devidi terminada la sò Ciesa,

Che'l pòse en premis de sta bela empresa,
Mantignif bianch e ròs finchè la dura,

And the "Second Angel" responds in the same style.

There are about forty more Churches, many of them decorated with frescoes and paintings of the Venetian and other schools, besides several native artists, as Moretto (at S. Clemente, Giovanni Evanglésta, Miracoli, and Grazie Churches) and

Romanino.

Santa Maria dei Miracoli, built 1487, has a richly ornamented front.

Santa Maria delle Grazie, which belonged to the Jesuits, has good frescoes.

Santa Afra, once attached to a convent, and the oldest here, is the site of the Temple of Saturn, and contains Titian's fine picture of the Woman taken in Adultery. S. Bernardo, of the fourteenth century, is on the site of the Temple of Hercules. S. Domenico has many frescoes.

S. Nazario's, rebuilt 1780, has a large and splendid altar-piece, by Titian, and Moretto's Coronation of the Virgin.

S. Giovanni, rebuilt on the site of one as old as the fourth century, contains many good specimens of Moretto and Romanino. S. Clemente is equall rich in painting, by Moretto.

Santa Eufemia has frescoes by Gambara. One of Romanino's best pieces is at Santa Maria Calchera.

S. Francisco, of the thirteenth century, has a front in the Lombard style, or mixture of Norman, and the Byzantine, with a round window, &c.

S. Salvatore, or Santa Giulia, an old half-mixed Lombard church, now a barrack, was founded by Desiderius, for his daughter Ausperga, the first abbess.

The Priests' Seminary is attached to the Church of S. Pietro in Olivata, built by Sansovino, with pictures by Moretto, Toppa, &c. A College, or Gymnasium, occupies the old buildings of the Benedictine Convent, including St. Faustino's Church, which is rich in frescoes.

The Great Hospital, founded 1447, has S. Luca's Chapel, painted by Romanino and Moretto.

The large Theatre is new and well built. The new Cemetery, or Campo Santo, by Vantini, contains tombs like the Roman Columbaria.

A *Museo Patrio, or Local Museum, open from 11 to 3, stands on the slope of the hills. on the site of a Roman Temple, built A.D. 72, in Vespasian's time, and contains several inscriptions (some from the Palazzo Lecchi), bas-reliefs, pavements, pillars, altars, and statues; one of which is a noble bronze Fame or Victory, above 6 feet high, discovered 1826; a rival to the Venus of Milo.

Remains of an aqueduct, called *Aquidotto del Diavolo, exist in the way to Valtrompia.

Brescia was the ancient Brixia, on the northern branch of the Via Emilia, and capital of the Cerromani, in Gallia Cisalpina. It was colonised by the Romans, 206 B.C., ravaged by the Goths, &c., and taken by the Lombards, whose last king, Desiderius, was a native.

In 1849, after the rout of the national army at Novara, the Brescians resisted, for ten days, the legions of the ferocious Haynau. His revenge was so bitter that the Austrian General, Prince Thurn and Taxis, who was mortally wounded, bequeathed his property to the families of those who suffered for heroically defending the town. Their leader, Tito Speri, was hung at Mantua, in 1852.

The Allied Sovereigns spent two days here in June, 1859. Louis Napoleon was the guest of Count Fenaroli, using the same bed and table which the First Consul had used in 1796, Hither, also, Colonel Türr, of Garibaldi's staff, was brought to be nursed by the ladies of the family, after the indecisive battle at Tre Ponti, between the Volunteers and Austrians, in which two hundred of the former were put hors de combat, and Türr shot through the arm.

Among natives it reckons the famous Arnaldo di Brescia, a religious and political reformer, burnt at Rome, 1155; Gambara, Moretto, Vincenzo (or il Bresciano), the painters; Tartaglia, the mathematician, so named because he stuttered, in consequence of his lip being cut in the siege of 1512.

Brescia was long celebrated for fire-arms, cutlery, sabres, &c., so that there is a proverb "Tutta Brescia non armerebbe un coglione." Monti contrasts the two in the lines

Brescia sdenosa d'ogni vil pensiero Piu che di ferro, di valore armata. The neighbourhood is populous, and studded with country seats and villages in every direction. Conveyances to Gargnano and Riva on the Lake di Garda, in time for the steamers.

[Rail to Cremona (page 63) and Pavia (page 55)::

Bagnolo

Miles. 8

Verolanuova ......... 17 Codogno

Miles.

Pizzighettone

... 48

Casalpusterlengo... 51

32

Ospedaletto

55

38 Pavia

57

Cremona...............

Olmeneta

Acquanegra

.........

From Pavia to Piacenza (page 57).]
Leaving Brescia, we reach

Rezzato (Stat.), population, 1,995, where the hills are left; followed by

Ponte S. Marco (Stat.). on the Chiese, which flows from Lake d'Idro and Val Giudicaria. Here the hills again are approached. A little to the right is Calcinato, which was the head-quarters of Victor Emmanuel in June, 1859. To the left of this is a by-road, from which the famous plain of Montechiaro spreads out before the eye. Villa Bonoris, in Montechiaro, was the Imperial headquarters, before the battle of Solferino, at the time of the celebration of the Corpus Domini. Lonato (Stat.), population, 6,730. An old town, not far from Lake di Garda. Here Bonaparte defeated the Austrians, 3rd August, 1796.

A beautiful road runs from Lonato towards the Lake of Garda. From the top of a hill some of the most enchanting scenery of Italy spreads itself before the eye of the traveller. "At the southern extremity (says Arrivabene) amidst the blue waters rises the Island of Sirmione. Its extensive gardens, its Roman ruins (said to be the remains of the Villa Catullus) and its high square tower, bearing the arms of the Scaligari, are seen on the distant horizon. The town of Desenzano is distinctly beheld from the top of the promontory of Lonato, together with the whole of the picturesque borders of the lake, commonly called the Riviera di Garda." The effect is heightened when the rising sun shines on the snowy summits of old Monte Baldo.

A short distance (4 miles) to the right of Lonato, on the Mantua Road, is Castiglione della Stivere, where the Austrians were finally beaten on the 5th August, 1796, and driven out of Italy. "It stands," says Count Arrivabene, whose paternal home was here, "for the greater part on the declivity of a beautiful hill. Monte Belvedere erects its barren top over it, on the left. centre, the old Gonzaga Castle, once stained with the blood of the Marquis Rodolph, frowns above the houses, with its strongly built round towers.

In the