Route 42.]

bourhood, one of which is close to the Grotto della Palomba. At this place the custode of Etna resides (a small Inn here); and from him good advice may be obtained about guides, mules, provisions, charcoal, lights, and other necessaries, including warm coats and woollen gamballi, orleggings Supposing the wind to be favourable, in order to see the Sun rise from the top, a start should be made about 9 or 10 in the evening. We pass Casa del Bosco, at the edge of the Regio del Bosco, and reach Casa degl' Inglesi in about 6 hours. It stands at an elevation of 9,560 feet, at the base of the white snowy cone, or cima, of the mountain, and is so called because rebuilt 1811 of lava, by

some English officers, in place of a house erected by Gemellaro, the geologist. It has been restored, contains several rooms, with a stable, and is used as a weather Observatory. Mules are left here, and the rest of the ascent (about 1,000 feet) up the cone must be made on foot, in the face of a keen wind and drifting clouds. The View at the summit of the crater, if the weather be clear, takes in a circuit of about 110 miles radius, including the north and east coasts of Sicily, and the neighbouring seas, Calabria on the mainland, Stromboli and the other Lipari Islands, on all which you look down as on a map. One striking feature of the spectacle is the projection of the mountain's shadow thrown over the land to the west, as the sun rises up. Etna may be seen on some days from Malta, which is 120 miles distant. In descending, a visit may be paid to the edge of the Val di Bove, which was all a-blaze with lava in the eruption of August, 1852. When Brydone visited Etna in 1770, it was commonly believed that a "Queen Anne," viz., Anne Boleyn, was condemned to burn in the volcano, for having made her husband, Henry VIII., a heretic. Cinnamon, sarsaparilla, rhubarb, sassafras, and palma christi (castor oil) grow round the base of the mountain. A wire-rope rail is projected, like that at Vesuvius.

3. Circuit of Etna, from Catania.

To Misterbianco, Paternò (12 miles from Catania), Licodia, Aderno (24 miles), Bronte (35 miles), Randazzo (46 miles), Linguagrossa, Piedmonte, Mascali, Giarre, Aci Reale (82 miles), back to Catania (94 miles).

PATERNO (population, 14,467) is the ancient Hybla Major, of which some remains are visible. Prince Paternò is the richest landowner in the island. Through Bianca Villa, where a Greek colony was settled in 1480, to

ADERNO (population, 19,180), the ancient Adranum. Follow the Simeto to

Bronte (population, 12,000), a name derived from one of the Cyclops, signifying thunder. The estate was conferred with a dukedom on "Nelson and Bronte" (as he used to sign himself) by King Ferdinand, and is now the property of Viscount Bridport, of Castel Maniace. It gives name (only) to a light Sicilian wine, imported by some Liverpool houses from Marsala. In 1842 the hot lava flowed into a pond, exploded the water, and killed 50 persons looking on. It narrowly escaped

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destruction in the eruption of 1832. In 1860, the people rose against the Sorci, as they called the Bourbon adherents, and massacred fifty of them in cold blood. This was stopped with a strong hand by Garibaldi's agent, Bixio.

RANDAZZO (population, 6,342), has remains of an ancient wall, and contains a Cathedral in a halfNorman, half-mosque style, with some paintings by Velasquez of Palermo. In S. Niccolò's Church is a statue by Gagini. The buildings are all of lava. Hence to Linguagrossa, &c., or Taormina, on the coast, which may be followed to Catania or Messina.

From Catania (Stat.), resuming our coast route by rail (see page 280), we pass nothing but lava beds, made by past eruptions, to the Bay of Scaro di Lognina; then to

ACI CASTELLÓ (population, 2,057) or "Jaci Castedda," as the Sicilians call it, under Etna. It stands on a small rocky peninsula, in the bay, and takes its name from the story of Acis and Galatea. Acis was killed by a rock which the one-eyed giant, Polyphemus, flung at him, and was turned into a river. From Trezza, a boat may be taken to visit the

Fariglione or Cyclopean Islands, close by, which are said to have been thrown by Polyphemus at Ulysses and his crew, as related by Homer, in the ninth book of the Odyssey. The cliffs consist of a marly clay resting on basalt columns, broken and contorted, and corresponding in character and height to the cliffs of the mainland. The largest at Grotte del Palombe is 200 yards distant from the shore, and is 300 yards round and 200 high. Here Eneas found Achemenides living like another Alexander Selkirk, abandoned by his shipmates.

Aci Reale (Stat.), population, 22,431, stands on a lava cliff, with a castle above it. Santa Venere (Venus) is one of its patron saints. The cliff, about 330 feet high, is made of five or six distinct beds of lava, one over the other.

Giarre-Riposto (Stat.), population, 7,820, under Etna. From this it is about 2 hours to the ancient Chestnut Tree, or Castagno di Cento Cavalli, so called from its enormous size, and from a story that John of Aragon, with his suite of 100 horsemen, found shelter under its branches in a storm. It consists of five trees or trunks joined in one, the largest being 38 feet round, and the whole having a girth of 163 feet; some say 196 feet. It still bears fruit and leaves, though its heart is decayed, and a road runs through the hollow wide enough for two carriages, over which a hut is built. It is reckoned to be "some" thousands of years old. In this neighbourhood is Zaffarana, where the effects of one of the latest eruptions may be examined.

MASCALI (population, 3,068) is near this; after which we cross the Fiume Freddo, or Cold River, fed by the snow on Etna; and then the ancient bed of lava which stopped the Carthaginians, B.C. 396, in their march to Syracuse, and obliged them to make a flank movement round the base of Etna. Cross the Onobala, now called the Cantara, from its Bridge (Alkantara) built of lava, by the Saracens.

At Cape Schiso, on the right, are traces of the very old Greek town of Naxos, the first one planted here, about 700 B.C.

Giardini-Taormina (Stat.), population, 1,630, so called from Giardini, the port to Taormina. The latter is at the foot of the steep hill or acropolis (800 feet above sea), on which

Taormina (population, 5,000) rests, near Cape S. Andrea. The coast scenery here is remarkable for its splendour. This is the ancient Tauromenium, founded by the people of Naxos, when that city was destroyed by Dionysius. It has a Moorish look, and is walled in by half-ruined fortifications, commanded by a Castle on the hill of Mola, built by the Saracens, from whom it was taken 1078, by Robert Guiscard.

Among its noticeable buildings, are S. Pancrazio's Church, on the site of a Greek temple, in which they show a letter written by "San Diavolo," much venerated by the people; the Badia Vecchia (Old Abbey); the hospital; and the Casa del Duca. There are also fragments of aqueducts, &c.; but the most remarkable object is the ancient Greek *Theatre, cut out of a cliff in the acropolis which commands a fine prospect all round-of Etna, the sea, and Calabria, opposite. It is about 208 feet diameter, and would hold

25,000 spectators; but the seats are gone. Castello Catarina belongs to Mr. P. Rainsford, who received the Duke and Duchess of Connaught here, 1879. On 18th August, 1860, the first division (4,200 men) of Garibaldi's forces embarked here, and landed at Capo d'Armi, near Mileto, on the main land.

From this to Messina, the Pelorus Mountains on the left come near the coast; and the scenery improves in extent and beauty all the way, past AGRO and GAJATI, which faces Reggio and the picturesque shore of Calabria, across the Faro or Strait of Messina. Pass Scaletta (Stat.) to Messina (Stat.) See Route 41.

ROUTE 43.

Palermo to Messina, across the Island.— The Lipari Islands.

This route is now for the most part done by rail, which is much shorter, see Route 41. (6 Sicilian miles 7 English.)

Start from Palermo, and leaving on the right Monte Gibilrossa, 2,105 feet high, and Monte Grifone, 2,785 feet we reach

MISILMERI (population, 11,029), or Musulumeli, as the Sicilians call it. From

VILLAFRATI (population, 2,856), descend to the S. Leonardo River, and rise again to a height of 1.980 feet. At

MANGANARO a road turns off to Girgenti (see Route 42), past BIVONA, where petroleum is found. At

Santa Caterina (Stat.) Population, 6,530. [Here the rail is reached, and may be followed to Caltanisetta (Stat.)-pop.,25,030-the head of a province, 1,765 feet above sea, near the centre of Italy. Its name is derived from the Saracen Calta and the Greek Nissaion. It stands in a basin of hills, one of which, Monte S. Giuliano, is 2,260 feet high. Lyceum of Ruggiero Settimo. When this town refused to join the rising of 1820, a force of 2,000 patriots from Palermo took it by assault. There are roads from here to Girgenti and Licata ; and a Rail is open to them through the sulphur districts, via San Cataldo, Serradifalco, Canicatti (population, 21,000), and Campobello, to Licata, page 283.j

Villarosa (Stat.)-pop., 3,696-on the main road towards Catania, in a country fruitful in cheese, wine, corn, and sulphur. From here the road ascends and descends the hills to the north of the rail, which proceeds to

Castrogiovanni (Stat.)-pop., 13,747-on a precipitous cliff, 3,060 feet above the sea, at the centre of the island, on the site of the ancient Enna, which for that reason was called the navel of Sicily. The Norman name was Castrianni, derived from Castrum Ennæ. Here, in 134 B.C., the great Revolt of the Slaves began, originating in the cruelties of Damophilus and his wife Megalleda, which being followed by a second Servile War, thirty-two years after, devastated the whole island, and was a prelude to the revolt of Sparticus on the mainland. In the first war, led by Eunos, they defeated four prætors who were sent against them, but were at length destroyed by the Consul Rupilius; it was estimated that a million of slaves perished. The second war, under'Athenion, was put down by the Consul, M. Aquilius.

The modern town is a heap of rugged streets built among the limestone rocks, and is rather cold in winter. Rock salt is found here. It is noted for a great fair and market, which are held here because of its central position. The buildings include a Cathedral, containing a marble candelabrum, said to have come from a large Temple of Ceres in the ancient city; S. Agostino and other churches; and an old Castle. Many of the neighbouring valleys are deep and precipitous, hollowed out into grottoes, once inhabited. A short distance south is Pergusa Lake, on whose borders Proserpine, gathering flowers, was carried off by Pluto, according to the old mythological story.

[Left of the main road is Calatascibetta (population, 5,069), on the top of a rock, 2,580 feet high, and some miles north of this is Monte Artesino, one of the highest peaks in the island, 4,000 feet above the sea. Here the three ridges of mountains in Sicily unite, and divide its surface into three parts, known as Val de Noto, Val Demone, and Val di Mazzara. Hence the island acquired its ancient name of Trinacria, and also its crest, which is three legs joined, like those of the Isle of Man.]

Leonforte (Stat.), population, 11,522, on the rail to Catania (see Route 42), has, at the Capuchin Church, a Last Judgment, by Fra Beato, with some other paintings. Mount Etna is in view. At 12 miles to the north is NICOSIA (population, 13,630), with its Cathedral and Carmelite Churches, in which are some bas-reliefs and statues, by Gagini. Rock salt is got here.

S. FILIPO D'ARGIRO (population, 2,152), among rocky hills, 2,700 feet above the sea, is on the site of Argyrium, the birth-place of Diodorus, the historian, called Siculus, and is said to be the place where St. Philip the Evangelist died, after preaching the Gospel for the first time in the island.

The road passes RAGALBUTO (population, 8,860), on a picturesque height, and ADERNO (population, 12,222), under Mount Etna. Hence through Biancavilla, Paternò, &c., to Catania (Stat.) Route 42; or via Bronte, &c., to Messina (Stat.) Route 41.

LIPARI ISLANDS.

The Lipari Islands are a straggling group of volcanic islands, off the north-east corner of Sicily, from 12 miles to 55 miles north and north-west of Cape di Milazzo. The nearest is Volcano; the most distant are Stromboli and Alicuri; the largest is Lipari, which is 14 miles north-west, and gives name to the whole group. There are twelve islands (or seventeen including islets), all belonging to the province of Messina. Population, 19,237. They are the ancient Hephestiades, or Eoliæ Insulæ, so called from Eolus, the god of the winds, whose seat was here.

Lipari, 20 miles from Milazzo, the ancient Lipara, is a bishop's see, where the governor lives, and is about 20 miles in circuit. Several of the hills on its surface are extinct volcanoes, as Monte S. Angelo, Monte della Guardia, and Monte S. Calogero, at the foot of which are some mineral

springs. Pumice stone, sulphur, alum, obsidian, lava, and cinders are found. It grows figs, grapes, raisins, and currants (which, when dried, are called zizib), olives, cotton, &c., and produces a sweet wine, called Malvasia di Lipari.

The town stands on a hill, on the east coast, and has a good harbour, with a castle, churches, &c., and remains of a Temple of Diana, and an ancient bath, near the bishop's palace. It was one of the naval ports of the Carthaginians; was ravaged by the Turkish corsair, Dragut, in 1544, and restored by Charles V.

Vulcano, or Volcano, the ancient Hiera, or holy, 3 miles south of Lipari, is a barren island, distinguished by a volcano which is continually smoking, and is said to have sprung up about 200 B.C. It takes three-quarters of an hour to ascend it. Sulphur crystals, boracic acid, and similar substances are produced from the crater. Smoke is seen to rise in bubbles through the sea in the neighbourhood of the island. Vulcan had his workshop below, and it was the ancient belief that there was a communication between it and Etna, the seat of the giant Typhon.

Saline, 5 miles north-west of Lipari, is 16 or 18 miles round, and contains some villages. It was called Didyme, because of the two twin volcanic peaks, with a valley between them, by which it is marked. It yields, wine, fruit, and olive oil.

Felicudi, or FELICURI, 10 miles west of Saline, and ALICUDI, or Alicuri, 10 miles west of Felicudi, are the ancient Phoenicodes and Ericodes respectively; one so called from being covered with palmettos, the other from its heaths. They produce corn, oil, fruit, but neither of them is volcanic.

Panaria, the ancient Euonymus, 6 miles northnorth-east of Lipari, is a small extinct volcano, where a few fishermen live, and grow fruit, &c. Five or six small islets, called Lisca, Dottolo, &c., lie between this and

Stromboli, the ancient Strongyle, about 20 miles north-east of Lipari, and 35 miles west of Calabria. It is about 12 miles in circumference. Its crater is always in flames, especially with a south wind, and being 2,650 feet high, it serves as a natural Lighthouse for sailors, visible for more than 50 miles round. The ascent takes about three hours. The crater is not at the top, but 200 yards below it. It produces sulphur, pumice stone, &c. The village of S. Vincenzo is on the east side.

U-Italy.

The best starting point for the island is Genoa. Steamers leave there and Leghorn, weekly, and touch at Porto Torres, Terranova, Cagliari, &c., or from Marseilles, viâ Corsica.-(See Bradshaw'z Continental Guide). Sailing vessels run from these ports to La Maddalena, near Caprera.

To the traveller, Sardinia is not comparable with Corsica, either for scenery or accommodation, and hardly for climate. The roads are safe, except about Nuoro, where the bandits use revolvers. Travellers must be prepared to rough it; and be "steeled against vermin, indifferent fare, and intempérie."-FORESTER'S Rambles.

This intempérie, which has given the island a bad name from classical times downwards, is the malaria generated by excessive vegetation and the heat of the plains, between June and November; when the inhabitants move up the hills to avoid it. For the remainder of the year, i.e., winter and spring, which is the proper time for strangers, the climate is healthy and delightful; but visitors must guard against great heat and dew; especially when the vigour of the body is lowered by fatigue. Every one rides in Sardinia, on horses or oxen. The best Sardinian borse is a spirited barb, broken to a step called portante, between an amble and a trot, going 4 to 5 miles an hour. The commoner horses are small but hardy and fit for burdens. Their owners, who act as viandanti or guides, are civil, but independent, and hard at making a bargain. A few light vehicles may be had. There are not more than fifty or sixty carriages in the island. The country people are dirty, ignorant, half savage, and somewhat treacherous. Snipe and wild fowl shooting, at Ozieri and Cagliart; wild boar and deer near Ala, in the hills.

The only good road is the Strada Reale, from Porto Torres to Sassari and Cagliari, through the island; which is level and macadamised, and traversed by diligences every day. The distances are in chilogrammi, of 8 chil. to 5 miles English.

This road, about 140 miles long, was begun 1824, and took seven years for its completion. Half of the men employed upon it were killed by fever. It corresponds with the old Roman road through the island and with the direction of the railway; and the telegraph which follows it is in connection with the cables at each end.

Railway open through the Island, from Porto Torres to Oristano and Cagliari; with branches to Terranova and Iglesias. It was made by an English Company.

ROUTE 44.

Porto Torres to Cagliari.

By Rail throughout, as above.

Porto Torres (Stat.), at the northern extremity of the Strada Reale; one of the half dozen harbours of Sardinia. Population, 2,142 (including the Island of Asinaria). Steamers to Genoa, Ajaccio, &c. (See Bradshaw's Continental Guide.)

This is an unhealthy place in the hot season. It stands near the ancient Turris Libysonis, at the mouth of the River Turritano, and was ruined by the Genoese, out of jealousy of the Pisans, 1166; when its inhabitants retired inland and founded Sassari, which it now serves as a port. It lies at the bottom of the fine Bay of Asinaria. A large square tower, built 1549, defends the harbour. The town is a long street, in which stands the Cathedral of S. Gavino, founded in the eleventh century. It contains some pillars from the ruins of the Roman city, which are close by; with two marble sarcophagi worth notice.

Oil and wine are the chief exports. The Gulf of Asinaria is 15 miles by 20; bounded by Cape Santa Reparata on the east, and Asinaria Island on the west, lying off Cape Falcone. This island is the ancient Herculis Însula, a long mountainous ridge rising 1,500 feet high, at Monte Scommunica.

It contains a few inhabitants and some ruins. To the west of Porta Torres, are the Nurra Mountains, which, at Monte Argentaro, are 2,010 feet high; and to the east is Castel Sardo, a fortified place (population, 1,944), remarkable for its lava cliffs, 300 to 400 feet high. From here by rail to Sassari (Stat.), the second city, and the liveliest place in the island, and an archbishop's seat; in a rich plain. Population, 31,600.

Inn:- Albergo d'Italia.

Resident English Vice-Consul.

It has a good trade in olives, figs, tobacco, wine, fruit, &c., through the ports of Porto Torres and Alghero. Upon its foundation by the people of the former place, in 1166, it became a republic under the protection of Genoa; styling her "mater et magistra, sed non domina.'

It is walled in with turrets and battlements, and has a citadel, a chief street, called Turritani, a large Cathedral of the seventeenth century, and twenty churches. Statue of Azuni, in the Piazza. In 1840, there were 700 persons of the clerical profession here.

St. Pietro is a large and rich convent.

The University, at the Jesuits' College, was founded 1634, by Philip IV.; and contains a museum with a few antiquities.

Outside the Marcella Gate is the fine Fountain of Rosallo, of white marble; the water pouring from eight lions, and four other figures representing the

seasons.

Near the town, the road crosses a river by a genuine Roman bridge, resting on several arches with massive piers.

About 3 miles off is a nuragho, a rough stone building, shaped like a truncated cone. It has a small door at the bottom, leading to a chamber, 25 feet high, and 15 feet diameter; with three cells in it. Many of them are to be seen near the road. They resemble the talayots or Giant's Barrows of Minorca; and are supposed to be of Phoenician origin, intended as tombs for the dead.-Forester. [Alghero, one of the ports of the island, 14 miles from Sassari, under Monte Leone.

Population, 7,806 A branch rail in progress. It was founded 1355, by the Aragonese kings; and the people, who are of Spanish descent, speak a dialect of Catalan. It has a good cathedral and thirteen churches. Oranges, olives, corn, &c., are raised and exported, with red and white wine, and coral. About 10 miles west, near Cape Caccia, is the Antro di Nettuno, or Grotto of Neptune, remarkable for its stalactites The cliffs at Cape Caccia are 500 feet high.]

From Sassari, the Rail proceeds nearly in the direction of the Strada Reale to the stations at Caniga and Tissi-Usini, on to Scala di Giocca (Stat.), or Giant's Stairs, so cailed from a zig-zag road over the hills, among cliffs 600 feet high. Hence to

Campomela (Stat.), on a plain; and Ploaghe (Stat.), population, 2,870, on a volcanic peak. About eight miles south west of this is CODRONGIANUS (population, 1,064), on a volcanic plain, near a mineral spring.

From Ploaghe, there is a road to TORRALBA (population 1,120). We follow the rail to Ardara (Stat.), on the volcanic hillock in the plain, now reduced to a few hovels (population, 277), by malaria; but formerly the capital of the province of Logudoro. It was founded in the eleventh century, and has a fine Church and remains of old towers and ruined walls.

Chilivani (Stat.), where the branch to Ozieri and Terranova goes off.

[Ozieri (Stat.), on an eminence, where the plain in which it stands narrows towards the hills. Population, 7,183. This is a clean town, having fountains in the piazza, a large heavy-looking cathedral, and nine churches, one of which, Nostra Senora di Montserrato, stands on a hill. From the Capuchin Convent is a fine prospect of the surrounding campidano. Snipe shooting. Hence by road to MORES (population, 2,219), on a hill, near the border of the Ozieri plain; with the round top of Monte Santo, on the left, 2,000 feet high.

The rail towards Oristano passes on to Giave (Stat), and Bonorva (Stat.), population 4,883; leaving the Strada Reale to the west, till it approaches thelatter near Macomer and Paulilatino.

Terranova (Stat.) 41 miles from Ozieri, on the east coast (population, 2,005), is a miserable, unhealthy place, at the head of a fine harbour or gulf at which the Cagliari steamer calls. It is a starting place for Civita Vecchia, now the rail is completed. Tavolara, at the mouth, is 1,500 feet high.]

Macomer (Stat.) Population, 2,210. Between this and Paulilatino (Stat), are to be seen many of the nuraghe or ancient tombs already spoken of. Here the Strada Reale is crossed by a road through the island from Bosa on the west coast to Nuoro anb Orosei on the east coast.

[BOSA (population, 6,234), is a port on the west coast, for shipping the oak timber from the Marglione and Goceano ranges, of which there is great plenty; yet Sardinia is said to buy navy timber from the French. Each cork tree yields about 301b. of bark on the average. To the south of it are Tres Nuraghes (population, 1,519); and the town of CUGLIERI (population, 4,199), in a crater, near Monte Articu or Ferra, 2,716 feet high. Iron is found here.

NUORO, on the road to the east coast, though a città (population, 5,762), is a poor place, on a high plain. It has a college for priests, and was the old capital of the Barbagia highlands, the people of which are very independent, and addicted to the vendetta, or law of private revenge. Monte Oliena, in this quarter, is 4,390 feet high, and the Genargentu range to the south rises to the height of 6,000 feet at the culminating peak of the island.]