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SECTION I.-NORTHERN ITALY.

N.B. FOR THE ROUTES ACROSS EUROPE TO ITALY, SEE INTRODUCTION. An asterisk [*] in the following pages denotes objects deserving special notice.

TURIN (Stat.); In Italian, Torino.

Population (1881), 252,832, with environs. Hotels:

Hotel de l'Europe, Piazza Castello, opposite the King's palace, five minutes' walk from the station. First-class hotel. Recommended.

Hotel Feder, one of the best. Recommended. Grand Hotel de la Ligurie.-A very good comfortable ârst-class family hotel. Moderate charges. Albino Guidi, Proprietor.

Hotel Trombetta, one of the best in Turin, under the immediate superintendence of the new proprietor, Mr. Leopold Baglioni.

Grand Hotel de Turin.-Branch establishment of the Bernerhof at Berne, and Kraft's Hotel de Nice at Nice, kept by M. Constant Kraft.

Grand Hotel Suisse. Advantageously situated, facing the General Station.

Baglioni's Grand Hotel and Pension d'Angleterre. Well and conveniently situated in the Via Roma, near the central Station.

Hotel de Londres.

Restaurant de la Méridienne, 7, Rue St. Thérèse. Kept by Antonio Bonfante.

Cafés.-San Carlo, in Piazza S. Carlo; De Paris; Cambio; Due Indie. Plain breakfast of coffee, &c., 60 cents; dinner, 2 francs; cup of mixed coffee and chocolate, called "beccherino," drunk at early morning; bread, in slender sticks, like quills, two feet long, called grissini, crisp and light. The wines are Barbera, Barolo, Caluso, Asti, and Soma.

Omnibuses belonging to the different hotels convey passengers to and from the station; 1 franc. Town omnibuses, from one extremity of the city to the other, 10 cents. Cittadini, 1 franc for one The course, and 1 franc 50 cents by the hour. fiacres ply for hire in the Piazza Castello. Money. In lire (or francs) and centesimi (or cents). Value about the same as French francs and centimes.

Post Office.-In Palazzo Carignano. The latest hour for posting French and English letters is 10 pm.

B

Telegraph Office, in the Piazza Castello.

Resident English Vice-Consul and American Consular Agent.

Church of England Service is performed every Sunday, at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., in the chapel behind the Vaudois Church, Corso Vitt. Eman. II. Entrance by the side gate,

Bankers.-Messrs. Roland and Co.

Railways to Susa, Mont Cenis, Paris, Pinerolo, Cuneo, Genoa, Milan, Ivrea, Ciriè, Castellamonte, Biella, Arona, &c.-One to Marseilles is projected, via Saluzzo, and Digne.

Passengers by the Simplon route are booked through from Turin to Domo d'Ossola, where they must take a fresh ticket.

Paper money is accepted at the Railway Stations, but only for that part of the journey which is within Italian territory.

In Italy the locomotives are called Alfieri, Dante, Tasso, Volta, Galileo, Manzoni, and so on, after their great men. The rail is "strada ferrata," or "ferrovia."

Races.-End of May, in the Piazza d'Armi, or dei

Armi.

*Chief Objects of Notice.-Cathedral; Piazza Castello; King's Palace; Armoury; Palazzo Madama and Picture Gallery; Carignano Palace; Churches of S. Filippo, Corpus Domini, Madre di Dio, Superga (Funicular Railway), and its view; Capuchin Convent; University; Theatre Royal; Cavour's House; Statues of Cavour and D'Azeglio. Architecture by Guarini and Giuvara.

TURIN, the capital of the Sardinian States and of the new kingdom of Italy, till the court moved to Florence, 1865, seat of a University, Archbishopric, &c., is on the west side of the River Po, where the Dora Riparia joins it, in a fertile plain, adorned with gardens and villas (called vigne); the Snowy Alps being in the distance to the north, including Mont Blanc, Monte Viso (at the head of the Po), and Monte Rosa. This plain lies at the

foot of the mountains, and hence derives its name, Piemonte (Piedmont in French), because it is a pie del monte. The nearest range of hills (the Collina, on the south) is 1,200 feet above the sea on the average; but the highest point, on which the Superga stands, is about 2,400 feet.

It takes name from the Taurini in Gallia Cisalpina, after whom the Romans called it Augusta Taurinorum. The city crest is a Bull-taurus or toro. Few antiquities have been found. After the tenth century the princes of the house of Savoy acquired it, and at length made it their seat, 1558, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto, one of the first soldiers of the age, fixed his residence here.

The French took it in 1640, in Richelieu's time; besieged it in 1706, when they were defeated by Prince Eugene; and held it from 1796 to 1814, as part of France. During the years 1802-14, the King, Victor Emmanuel I., retired to his island of Sardinia. In all public papers it is styled the "Illustrious City," "Countess of Gruliasco," and "Lady of Beinasco."

Size, 1 by 1 mile; circuit about 4 miles. It is divided into six sezione, or sections, and laid out with almost the regularity of an American city, in large broad streets, the views up and down which are finely terminated by the mountains. About thirty lines, following the direction of the cardinal points (those east and west running to the Po, those north and south to the Dora), cut up the whole into about 150 blocks of houses, most of which are solid, and high, and built of brick, but with a plainness of style which is rather monotonous. Arcades shelter some of the streets and squares, which are really square, or at least very regularly shaped. The streets are lit with gas, and are kept clean by letting the waters of the Dora, at night, into the gutters which run down the middle. Water is to be brought from the Avigliana Lakes, near Rivoli. Granite tramways are laid for vehicles. A strong four-sided citadel, one-third of a mile in diameter, formerly defended it on the west. It was built in 1565 on Pacciotto's system. The sites of the old ramparts (repari) are now covered with broad streets (strada and strade) or promenades, planted with trees.

Turin has become more industrial of late years, and possesses looms and factories, works for ivory-turning, pipes, lithography, macaroni, chocolate, &c. The old houses are cleaned and painted in gay colours; and hanasome new quarters have sprung up round the Piazza dei Armi, Dora Riparia, &c.

Gates, Bridges, &c.-There were formerly four Gates, which have left their names behind; the Porta de Po on the east or Genoa road, Porta Vittoria on the north, Porta Susina on the west (towards Monte Cenis), Porta Nuova on the south or Nice road. From Porta Susina a street or line of streets runs parallel to the broad Contrada Dora Grossa through Piazza Susina and Piazza del Corpus Domini (or the Herb Market), to Piazza Castello, the principal square, where the palace, &c., stand; thence by the wide Strada del Po to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, opposite the Po Bridge and Madre de Dio Church, with the Superga in the distance. This bridge is granite, on five arches of 80 feet span, and was begun by

Napoleon. It commands a fine panorama; and the best view of the city is obtained from the Capuchin Monastery on the hill to the right. From the Herb Market a street called Contrada d'Italia or Dora Grossa strikes north through Piazza de Emanuele Filiberto to the bridge on the Dora, which is one solid granite arch, 147 feet wide and 40 broad, built by Mosca; and from Piazza Castello, Contrada Nuova runs scuth through Piazza S. Carlo to Porta Nuova and Piazza del Rè, near the Piazza d'Armi, where it is crossed by a long planted strada, which leads down past the railway station to the new Maria Teresa iron bridge on the Po. In this part are several modern houses and gardens. Handsome new streets are springing up. There are many silk and jewel shops.

The Po is a broad, dirty, and turbulent stream, much swollen at the time of the spring floods.

Squares. Of the thirteen Piazze (squares), Piazza di Savoia, or Statuto, contains an obelisk, erected 1848, to commemorate the abolition of ecclesiastical power, and the establishment of the constitutional maxim-that La Legge e equale per tutti (the law is the same for all). The Mont Cenis Fountain is by Belli. In Piazza della Città is the Hotel de Ville, with a bronze statue of Amadeo VI. Piazza di S. Carlo contains Marochetti's statue of Emanuele Filiberto. A statue of Paleocapa, the minister who advocated the Mont Cenis Tunnel, was erected in 1871.

*Piazza Castello is the largest square, being 250 yards by 200, and so called from the old castle of the Dukes of Savoy, where the Senate, or Chamber of Peers met till 1865, and the Police Office is stationed. Cavour's house, *Casa Cavour, in which he was born 1810, has a tablet on it; here he died, 6th June, 1861 (see page 5 for his monument). The King's Palace and Cathedral are on the north side; the Theatre Royal on the east.

Royal Palaces.-The Castle or *Palazzo Madama (after Madame the wife of the Duke of Savoia-Nemours, who lived in it) was begun in the thirteenth century, restored by Duke Amadeo II., in 1416, and improved by Giuvara's façade, 1720. It contains several offices. One of its two old towers is used as an Observatory.

The Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale) is a large pile, built by Duke Carlo Emanuele II., from the designs of Castellamonte, with the gardens behind, towards the Dora. It contains an Armoury. Passing on, you see the marble equestrian statue of his father, Vittorio Amadeo I. On the staircase, a rich collection of Chinese and Japanese vases, battle-pieces by Azeglio, &c.; portrait of the Duchess of Burgundy; busts of the Princess Clotilda and the Queen of Portugal; sculpture by Piffetti (in the grand apartments); handsome chandeliers; the royal library of 30,000 volumes and 1,800 MSS., including letters of Duke Emanuele Filiberto, Prince Eugene, Bonaparte and his generals, &c.; 2,000 designs, among which are

twenty by Da Vinci, several by Raphael, Correggio, and Titian; a collection of Chinese miniatures and insects on Chinese paper.

The Royal Armoury (Armeria Reale), formed 1833, is a good collection, containing Emanuele Filiberto's arms, Prince Eugene's sword and pistols, and much ancient and modern armour and weapons, very picturesquely arranged, some being equestrian figures. There is also a collection of medals, and Sardinian and Italian pieces of money.

Churches. Close to the Palace, on the west, and fronting the Piazza di S. Giovanni, is

The *Cathedral, or Duomo of S. Giovanni Battista (John Baptist), on the site of a Lombard church of the seventh century. It was rebuilt by Archbishop Rovere, 1498-1505, but has nothing striking about it. The portal is ornamented with pilasters, and the pillars are wreathed with vine leaves. It contains a marble tomb of a princess of Piedmont, with a statue of the patron saint, and the altar is very rich. In one of the six side chapels are Le Gros's St. Teresa Offering her Heart to God, and another of St. Teresa with the Palm of Martyrdom. Behind the high altar, and lit by a stained glass window above it, is Guarini's Del Sudario Chapel, chiefly of black polished marble, with six windows in it, and a cupola on columns, at the top of which is a marble crown. Among the monuments is Revelli's of Queen Maria Adelaide (1854), and another by Gazzini. Though adorned with white marble monuments, bronzes, &c., the dark colour of this chapel gives it a very sombre appearance. It takes its name from the Santo Sudario, or holy napkin, on the altar, which they say was brought from our Lord's table.

Some good sculpture and specimens of the great masters of painting are to be found in the hundred and ten Churches and Chapels (chiese) of Turin. Those most worthy of notice are the following:

Consolata Church, in Contrada della Consolata, is lightly ornamented, though irregular in its shape. It includes an old chapel of the tenth century. In the Piazza, facing it, is an image of the Virgin, with a votive marble column placed here after the cholera appeared in 1835. Besides the ex-votos are two good kneeling figures (by Veda) of Queen Maria Theresa and Maria Adelaide. "A poor man prayed to the Madonna to reveal to him some lucky numbers for the lottery: he had a dream in which, as he imagined, she suggested a trio of numbers. He made his purchase accordingly, but they turned out blanks. In revenge for this delusion, he attacked the image of the Madonna della Consolazione when borne in procession through the city to the Superga, and mutilated it with a hatchet. The mob was enraged and would have torn him to pieces if he had not been rescued by the soldiers, and he was conveyed as a madman to a lunatic asylum."-Canon Wordsworth.

*S. Filippo Neri, in Contrada S. Filippo, near Piazza Carignano, one of the largest and most imposing churches here; begun by Guarini, whose

vault fell in 1715, and rebuilt from Giuvara's designs. It has a fine portico of fluted columns, with paintings of the Saint in one of the chapels, and of the Assumption over the high altar, which is rich in precious stones, bas-reliefs, and carvings.

S. Lorenzo, in Piazzo Castello, is eight-sided, with chapels round it, and a dome over the altar, composed of two round cupolas, one above the other, and painted with frescoes of the Four Evangelists. A marble group of the Assumption is worth notice. The church is a work of Guarini in the seventeenth century.

*Corpus Domini, in the Piazza of that name, was built in 1607, by Vitozzi, and decorated with a profusion of ornament by Alfieri. That of S. Spirito, near it, is said to occupy the site of a Temple of Diana, and may be noted on account of Rousseau's abjuring Calvinism here in 1728.

Santa Teresa, in Contrada di S. Teresa, was built 1635, by Duke Vittorio Amadeo I., and has a later façade by Aliberti (1764), with some alabaster groups, paintings, &c.

S. Carlo Borromeo, in Piazza S. Carlo, built 1619, by Duke Carlo Emanuele I., from Valperga's designs, is a structure of some merit. Near it is Giuvara's Church of S. Cristina, with a very correct front.

Facing these churches, in the square, is Marochetti's bronze statue of Duke Emanuele Filiberto, with bas-reliefs of the battle of St. Quentin (which he won, 1557), and the treaty of Château Cambresis (1558).

The Jesuits' Church was built 1577 from Pellegrini's designs, and is very rich in marbles and bronzes.

S. Tommaso, one of the oldest in the city. S. Francisco de Paolo, by Pellegrini, is a good church, with a bust of Carnoli, the sculptor.

Santa Maria della Piazza, one of the most ancient, was restored 1751 after Vittone's designs.

S. Domenico in that street, was founded 1214, and contains Guercino's Rosary.

S. Delmazza has Guercino's Christ in the Tomb. S. Francisco was founded by St. Francis d' Assissi, 1215, the façade being a work of Vittone.

S. Rocco with a dome, includes a front by Beria, of an octagon shape on eight pillars; the interior by Lanfranchi.

Santa Crocette, on the Pinerolo Road, has Tintoretto's Descent from the Cross.

*Della Gran Madre de Dio, across the Po Bridge is a modern church amongst woods, built by Bonsignori, to commemorate the return of the Royal House to Turin, in 1814, and is a sort of miniature of the Pantheon, faced with marble, and having marble pillars, &c. Above it is the Capuchin Church of Del Monti, commanding a fine view of the city and the plain of the Po; but a more extended prospect is obtained from the College of the Superga, on a mountain beyond, one and a half hour's walk to the east-north-east, but also accessible by the Funicular Rail.

The Tempio Valdese, or Vaudois Church, is near

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