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The Austrian main body was at the Village and The line traverses a wide and richly cultivated Bridge of Magenta; and to this point M'Mahon, plain, covered with mulberry trees, vineyards, when he discovered them, bent all his efforts, hav- hemp, maize, rice, &c. ing in view to effect a junction with Espinasse.

The mountain region commences about Ivrea. The railroad station and the custom-house, both strong buildings, were defended by Clam, Zobel, Ivrea (Stat.), on the river Dora Baltea. Popand other Austrian generals, filled with Tyrolese ulation, 9,563. This is the ancient Epredia, guarding sharpshooters. At 2 p.m. the Austrians had six

the mouth of Val d'Aosta, and a well built town, teen brigades, or 60,000 strong, round this point. picturesquely seated on a hill side; having an old

At length MacMahon joined by Espinasse at machicolated castle, and a cathedral, on the site tacked the front of the Austrian line between of a Temple of Apollo. It produces cheese, cotton, Magenta and Ponte Nuovo, The village was and silk. The women strip hemp all day long. stormed and carried, though defended inch by

Ascending the valley by the Dora Baltea, the inch by the Austrians, who were obliged to give first place is way. Gyulai made a last effort to retake Buffa

| Montalto, or Monte Stretto (population, 1,325), lora Bridge, in order to cut off the French Zouaves,

a small village with a feudal castle, one of several but was unsuccessful, and at length gave orders

by which this route was guarded. The mountain to retreat, and the French were victorious.

scenery increases in beauty every mile. The French loss was 52 officers killed, including Generals Espinasse and Cler, 194 officers, and Borgofranco (population, 1,668). 4.200 men killed, wounded, and missing. The

The rocky mountains on both sides are covered Austrians lost 6,000 killed and wounded, and 4,000 taken prisoners; and 4 guns, 2 flags, 4,000 knap

with indigenous forests of pine, chestnut, and

walnut trees; among which vines are carried sacks, and 12,000 muskets were captured by the

to the hill tops. All the Val d'Aosta is "a conFrench. Both sides had about 60,000 men on the

tinued feast to the eye of every combination of field. A white pillar marks the spot where Espi

mountain, rock, river, forest, and castled height, nasse fell. At another spot 2,000 corpses were buried. On the 6th, the Emperor fixed his

with distant glaciers and snowy peaks, while it

literally teems with the richest produce."-(KING'S head-quarters at Magenta, and created MacMahon

Italian Valleys of the Alps.) Fruits of all kinds, (late President of the French Republic) à Marshal and Duke of Magenta, on the field. The result of the

pumpkins, peaches, delicious figs, &c., abound, in

spite of the lazy and unskilful style of cultivation. victory was, that Milan, the capital of Lombardy, was evacuated by the Austrians the same day, and

Many of the proprietors are non-resident. At

Carema a good pale red wine, like champagne, is Victor Emmanuel proclaimed King. He received the Milan deputation on the field of battle.

produced. After Magenta the next stations are Vittuone, The line passes the mouth of Val Sesia, which and Rho, where the Gallarate line (towards Lago leads up to Gressonay (6 hours) and to the head Maggiore) joins.

of the Lvs Torrent, under Monte Rosa. . Milan Terminus is near the Porta Nuova,

Donnaz (population, 1,784), close to a pass cut which also serves the Como line. (See Route 11.) in the rock by the Romans. ROUTE 6.

Hone Bard, where is

FORT BARD, a fortified post in the middle of a Turin to Ivrea, Aosta, the Great and deep gorge, on a massive rock. It was captured Little St. Bernard, and the Mont Blanc in 1252 by Amadeo of Savoy, and by Napoleon in

his march down the St. Bernard in 1800. It was reDistrict ; and to the Castellamonte Dis

built 1815, and is now almost impregnable-three trict.

steep sides being cut off by the river, and the The stations to Chivasso are:

fourth (across the valley) filled up with strong Miles.

arched gates.

Miles.
Settimo ...............

Chivasso
.........

It has been calculated that the Western Alps Brandizzo ............ 114

have been the theatre of warlike exploits on sixty

six great occasions from Hannibal to Napoleon. From Chivasso the distances are:

The Val de Champorcher, a little further on, leads Miles.

Miles.

up the Fenêtre de Cogne to the Glaciers of Cogne. Montanaro ........ 84 Donnaz ...... Rodallo

Hône Bard ....

34

Verres, or VERREX (population, 1,206), has a Caluso. 81 Verrés

38 picturesque castle (which guarded the pass here) Candia. 114 St. Vincent.........

at the junction of Val de Challant, built about Mercenasco I Châtillon................

1368. This val leads up (in nine hours) to the base Strambino 15 Chambave ......

of Monte Rosa. The road to Aosta passes a Roman 200 Nus ...............

bridge and through the Gorge of Mont Jovet. Montalto Dora ...... 23 Aosta

along the face of a precipice, with the Dora far Borgofranco ......... 25

below.

............... 325

...

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Ivrea

........*

St. Vincent (population, 2,186), in a forest of | At the Convent of St. Joseph are remains of an chestnut and walnut trees, 1,000 feet above sea, is amphitheatre, which was 200 feet long; also of a

noted for its mineral Baths, or iron theatre and a basilica and forum. Stone pavesprings, anciently called Fons Salutis; in soft ments of the Roman roads have been discovered, steatite rock. From here, up the Col de Jon, to and remains of drains 3 to 12 feet beneath the Gressonay in 7 hours. The people live on polenta, surface. potatoes, rye bread, milk, and cheese.

The Town Hall, in Place Charles Albert, at Chatillon (population, 2,292), so called from the centre of the town, is said to be the site of a Château d'Uselle, in a charming site on the other

basilica. Facing it is the old Cross, erected 1541, side of the valley, on the summit of a bold preci to commemorate the flight of Calvin, who had pice over the Dora. The gardens, vineyards, and taken refuge here, and the orthodoxy of its inhabiforests line the hills nearly to their summits

tants in opposing his dogmas. Close to it is the 3,000 feet high. The old castle belongs to the En

Cathedral, a handsome Gothic church, first founded trèves family, of Château de Challant, the largest in the sixth century, but since modernised. It proprietors in the valley, with an income of 40,000 contains monuments of Humbert, or Thomas I. of francs. A bridge across the Tournanche is built Savoy, and of Bishops De Quart and Des Près; over & Roman arch, which hangs beneath it. The bones of St. Grat, the patron saint, at the Monte Rosa lies fourteen hours north-east, and altar; a silver bust of Anselm, a native of Aosta, Mont Cervin, or the Matterhorn, fifteen hours due who became Archbishop of Canterbury (1093) north. The ascent to the latter is up the defile of under William Rufus; an old marble font; a choir Val Tournanche, in a deep ravine, and over S. paved with Roman mosaic, and a good cloister. Théodule Pass.

The bishop's palace has some fresco portraits of Chambave (population, 945) produces some prelates and Savoy princes. The mid-day bells good wine.

ring at 11 a.m., and are called nona (nine). There

is a college here, from which a road leads out, past Nus (population, 2,203), near some old castles.

the hospitals, to the Tour du Lépreux, or Leper From Nus it is 8} miles to

Tower, the scene of a story by Le Maistre, who AOSTA,

lived at Aosta for five years. It was formerly a The ancient Augusta Prætoria, or Augusta Salasso Roman work on the old city wall. The Hermitage rum, where the two St. Bernard rontes meet, at of St. Grat stands on a mountain outside the town, the back of Mont Blanc, in a beautiful mountain in the direction of Becca di Nona. Fruit and wine hollow, 1,970 feet above the sea. The Becca di are the chief products of this lovely spot. Cases Nona overhangs the town. French patois is of goitre are so disgustingly frequent as to be spoken. Population, 7,000.

thought little of by the residents; as Juvenal Hotels : Du Mont Blanc; Couronne.

remarks:-"Quis tumidum guttur miratur in

Alpibus?" Napoleons are called “Marengos" in this valley.

Due south of Aosta is the Becca di Nona, 10,384 This is the capital of an old Duchy, and is still

feet high, about 5 hours distant, the peak of Roman in its plan and the arrangement of its which commands a splendid prospect; Mont principal streets. The solid stone walls, built by

Emilius, near it, is 11,677 feet. A path over the Augustus, B.C. 20, though hid away among houses, mountains from Aosta to COGNE (population, 1,600), can be examined on the south-west of the town. Locana, Ponte, and Turin, takes about 26 hours; They are about 24 feet high, and fortified by tur

and passes Grand Paradis, 13,300 feet above the sea, rets. Trinité Gate, near the tall Campanile of

the highest of the Graian Alps, and Grivola, in Val the old Church of St. Ours (founded about 525 by de Cogne, 13,208 feet. Paradis was first ascended St. Ursus, a Scotsman), and some 15th century in 1860. (See BALL's Guide to the Western Alps.) cloisters. was the old Porta Prætoria, a massive Above Aosta the valley continues to be cultivastructure, 40 feet by 66, pierced by three arches,

ted like a garden all the way, tier above tier, on and flanked by towers. Outside this gate is a

both sides. The vines hang in trellices up the modern bridge on the Buthier Torrent, which

slopes, in the way so often dreamt of, but so rarely has in time changed its course and left a marble

seen abroad, mixed with groves of walnuts and Roman bridge to the east, high and dry. Here stands half buried in the soil, the triumphal

chestnuts, and old castles perched on the cliffs.

The road is good and easy. *Arch erected by T. Varro as a memorial of the subjugation of the Salassi, nine or ten years before

LA SARRE has an old medieval castle. Augustus built his Roman town here. It is a

AIMAVILLE (population, 1,687), so called after single arch, solidly built, in tolerable condition.

Caius Aimus, a Roman general of the time of The Porte de Savoie was the Porta Decumana;

Augustus, has another castle, which belonged to Porta Quintana, with its old feudal tower, is now

the Challants, and has been modernised with four Porte de Bramfam, so called from a Princess of Bra

turrets and a gallery. Some iron forges and the ganza, said to have been starved to death by her

Torethe vineyards are near this village. husband, or from having served as a storehouse in ST. PIERRE. Here is a fine castle, rebuilt 1680, . the famine of 1337.

I above the church.

Châtel Argent. Near this is a steep mule path, 1 ST. REMY (population, 859), a poor place, where like steps, on the face of the cliffs, for bringing iron the Italian Custon House is passed. Hence it is ore from Cogne.

a rather steep road to the Hospice of Great St. VILLENEUVE (population, 847), a pretty place,

Bernard, where seventy or eighty travellers may

be lodged. From 16,000 to 20,000 cross this pass, near some iron forges. The ore is brought by women and men as well as mules, from the works

which is 8,130 feet high, and has its mean annual at Cogne, 8,350 feet high. Here the valleys of the

temperature at about freezing point. The highest Rhemes and Savernache unite. The houses have

heat on record is 69o. At Chenalettaz, or Mont their windows barred with iron gratings.

Mort, on either side of the pass, there is a very fine

view of the Mont Blanc range. From this down to Liverogne is noted for good wine.

Martigny Station, in the Valais, is 104 hours. Avise Castle, opposite Ruma, near Val Grianch

From Settimo (page 11), on the Ivrea line, a Between this and

branch rail runs to Rivarolo and Cuorgnè, with Fort Roc, Mont Blanc comes into view, at the | another branch from Rivarolo to Castellamonte. head of the valley, like a brilliant alabaster wall. The stations from Settimo are Volpiano, s. The road here winds round the precipitous face of | Benign, Bosconero and Feletto. Then a cliff, over the abyss of the Dora.

Rivarolo (Stat.), has some remains of a LA SALLE was a town of the Sal

fine Roman bridge. At Pont, in Val d'Orco some remains, and an old Castle.

(where the river is called Acqua d'Oro, on ac

count of its water power), is a cotton factory, MORGEX (population, 1,116), among vineyards,

employing 1,200 hands. The path to Cuorgné, pine forests, and Waterfalls, is near the valley to

and up to this rocky Val, passes Locano and wards Col de la Serena, leading up to the Great St.

Ceserolo, to the house of our Lady of the Snow, Bernard.

near the top of Mont Iseran (13,271 feet high), on PRÉ ST. DIDIER (population, 859), 25 miles from the border of Savoy, near the head of the Isère. Aosta, near the junction of the Thuile and the Here Vittorio Emanuele used to come to hunt Dora; where the road parts off to Courmayeur and the stambecco, a gigantic chamois or wild goat. to the passes of Allée Blanche and Val Ferrex,

The winter is bitterly cold under the Alps, but under Mont Blanc.

beautiful in its kind. “The effects of light and Courmayeur (population, 2,580).

shade," says Gallenga, “on the high polished, Hotels: Royal; L'Angelo; L'Union.

mirror-like surface of the vast surrounding Alpine

chain, would drive poets or artists attempting to Courmayeur consists of ten small hamlets, in a

paint them to distraction. Such golden risings fine hollow of the mountains, so sheltered that

and rosy settings the sun never displays at any corn is grown to the very edge of the ice, Mont

other season of the year, even in Italy; its light Blanc here rises up like a vast wall, 15,780 feet

grows keener as its face waxes colder; distinctness high.

of outline and depth of ground impart new 1. Aosta, over the Little St. Bernard, to Bourg St.

grandeur to the sublime picture of the boundless Maurice, 46 miles, in fifteen hours' walking. This

hill-range and interminable plain. Then the was the pass taken by Hannibal, according to

revelry of the inoon, stars, and planets in the Polybius, who travelled over it sixty years later,

night! every farthing candle of the sixth maguiexpressly for the purpose of tracing it. It was the

| tude peeping forth a luminary!". way most familiar to the tribes in alliance with Past Salassa and Valperga to Cuorgnè (61 Hannibal. (King's Italian Valleys of the Alps.) miles.)

Several chateaux are passed in ascending this | Castellamonte (Stat.) at the terminus. beautiful valley, the richness of which contrasts The town (population, 5,621), is the head place of with the “poverty, filth, and cretinism" of its the Canavese district (or district of Ivrea), the men resident population. La Thuile is at the mouth of of which are mostly carpenters, who emigrate the glen up to the Ruitor Glacier. Hence to the yearly for employment. It stands on a hill, 500 Hospice, in 8 hours, the pass being 7,218 feet high. feet above the plain, commanding a fine view of It is the boundary of Savoy, and has a column of Turin, Monte Viso, the Maritime Alps, and the Jupiter and a Druid circle. The descent through Alps to the north. Much silk is made; it is also St. Germain to Bourg St. Maurice is made in 81 | noted for its pignatte, or pots. For several years hours, with the fine peak of Mont Pourri in front. in succession the valleys in this neighbourhood

were desolated with vine disease. Castellamonte 2. AOSTA, over the Great St. Bernard, to

was the head-quarters of Mr. A. Gallenga, when Martigny, 47 miles, in 16 hours.

writing his entertaining Country Life in Piedmont, At Gignod, the Val Pellina branches off on the in which he describes how the countrymen of his right, towards the Matterhorn and Zermatt, which forefathers lived; their simplicity, hospitality, is 20 hours' walking from Aosta, through mag- sturdiness, and love of huddling in towns, their nificent scenery. The Col at the top is 11,687 feet | indifference to diet, their industry, and other mixed high.

1 qualities.

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Route 7.1 COURMAYEUR, CASTELLAMONTE, BIELLA, VARALLO, LAKE OF ORTA. 17 ROUTE 7

1 of Val Sesia, down to Piode and Scopa, or Scopallo.

Scopa is 11 hours from Gressonay, up the valley, Turin to Biella, Varallo, Lake of Orta, under Monte Rosa, and 11 hours from Ponte and the Upper Novarese.

Grande, in Val Anzasca, not far from the Simplon

Road. By rail to Santhia, as in Route 5, and thence to

From SCOPA it is 24 hours down the Sesia to Biella, as follows:

Varallo, at the junction of Val Mastalone, in the
Miles.)

Miles. neighbourhood of fine scenery.
Salussolo
Candelo.....

VARALLO.
Vergnasco

| Biella...................187 Sandigliano....

Hotels : Posta; Italia. The line passes through a highly fertile country,

The capital of Val Sesia, and the centre of much intersected by numerous Canals, for irrigating its

picturesque and inviting scenery in this and neighcorn, rice, hemp, and other fields. Orta and

bouring valleys. It may be reached via the rail to Varallo are now best reached by the lines opened

Gozzano. It contains many old houses. Populafrom Novara, see page 13.

tion, 3,500. The people of Val Sesia are house

painters. At the Church of S. Gaudenzio is a Biella (Stat.), at its terminus.- A bishop's see,

fine altarpiece of the Marriage of St. Catherine, &c., at the mouth of Val Andorno. Population, 9,800.

by Gaudenzio Ferrari, an artist of celebrity here. It contains the Cathedral of S. Sebastiano, a

At the Santa Maria della Grazie, annexed to the Tribunale for the province, and the Cisterna Palace.

Minorites Convent, are his frescoes (1507) of the The road from this to Ivrea is lined with walnuts;

Circumcision, and Christ and the Doctors; and mulberry trees are numerous; silk and wool

his greatest work (1513), called the Twenty-one len are manufactured. The men here are masons

Mysteries, or History of the Saviour, painted on and builders, just as those of Ivrea are carpenters;

the choir screen, 34 feet by 26. Ferrari's house is all travel from home yearly for work, and many

in Piazza Ferrari. There is a school of design at acquire wealth. Coaches run hence to Varallo.

the Barolo Palace, where wood carvings are sold. At Biella is the house of a Piedmontese bero, Another palace is that of the Adda family. An old Pietro Micca, still preserved with great care, which bridge crosses the Val Mastalone, near the Church Garibaldi visited in 1859, when it was occupied by of S. Pietro Martire, at the mouth of the Val; it his descendant of the same name, the Sindaco of | www

.

s aue the place, and a hatter by trade. On the 6th May,

r

has a fresco by Ferrari.

On the Sacro Monte, a hill 270 feet high, among Garibaldi, after organising his staff, with his small

forests of chestnuts, is a celebrated sanctuary. army of Cacciatori dell' Alpi, left Biella to join

founded 1486-90, by B. Caimo, a pilgrim from the Cialdini at Casale, where he took part in the action

Holy Land. It is composed of a church at the of the 8th. He received an autograph rescript from

summit called Nova Gerusalemme, copied from the Victor Emmanuel, as Dictator, to enlist volunteers

Holy Sepulchre, and forty-six small chapels and and impose contributions of war for his daring

oratories on the ascent, built by P. Tibaldi, and operations against the Austrians in Upper Lom

adorned with frescoes and terra cottas, by Ferrari bardy. He was left to follow out his own plans,

and other artists, with subjects or mysteries from the King remarking, “Go where you like. Do

the New Testament. The most remarkable are what you like. There is only one regret, that I am

the Pietà, Adoration of the Magi, Transfiguration, not able to follow you."

and Crucifixion; the last containing 150 terra About 4 miles north-west is the Graglia, a sanc cotta figures of life size. One of the chapels is tuary, on a hill, overlooking the plains of Piedmont, dedicated to St. Francis. A Santa Scala, or stairs, where good lodgings may be had, except when which the devout pilgrim mounts on his poor pilgrims are here.

knees, leads to the three crosses on the top, which About 6 miles north-north-west is Oropia, another

commands a fine prospect. (KING's Valleys of the sanctuary, dedicated to the Madonna, on the top of Alps.) Monte Macrone. The church has a new image cut

At La Rocca, 11 mile from this, on the Sesia. from a cedar of Lebanon, and some curious paint

are the works for the rich nickel mines of La Balma, ings by Ferrari and Lumi. Hence there is a path

situated on Pic de Castello, 43 hours distant, and over Col de la Balma to Fontainmoire, in the Val

5.200 feet high. Varallo produces good truffles, Gressonay, which leads up to Monte Rosa.

wine, and potatces, besides chestnuts, &c. From Biella to Varallo there is a carriage road

From Varallo, up the beautiful Val Mastalone, it skirting the hills, by way of Cossato and Rognag

| is an easy way of about 20 miles to Ponte Grande. nono in 6 hours; but for the pedestrian another | From Varallo to Pella, on Lake of Orta, it is four route is by Andorno, Mosso Santa Maria, to Borgo hours' walking, through magnificent scenery, cross, Sesia, on Val Sesia, 7 miles below Varallo; or, a more ing the Col di Colma (5,000 feet) about half way. interesting route is up Val Andorno to Pie di Pa From the top is a view embracing all the Monte vallo (from which a path leads over Col de Torion to Rosa range. A boat crosses the lake from Pella Issime in Val Gressonay), Campiglia, and Cima to Orta, on the eastern side in half an hour. Lake de Bo, by the side of which is a path into the head ! Orta is the most attractive of the smaller Alpine

lakes, combining richness with boldness of form., Garibaldians in great disorder, with the loss of It is about 9 miles long, up to Omegna, at its head, 100 men on Garibaldi's side. Among these was a at the mouth of Val Strona. A boat to it costs 2 member of the Cairoli family, from Pavia, the francs. There is also a good road.

head of which, a high-minded widow, gave her The little town of Orta, on the Lake of Orta

four sons to Garibaldi. One was killed in this (Albergo S. Giulio), is close to the sanctuary of

action, another died in the Southern Campaign; Monte Sacro, with its nineteen chapels, dedicated

a third is now (1879) Prime Minister of Italy. to S. Francis d'Assissi. Population), 1,001.

From Arona the road passes by Belgirate, to Facing the town is the picturesque Island of S. Stresa, a beautiful spot on Lago Maggiore. Giulio and its church. Orta is 12 miles from under Monte Motterone. Arona; or it may be reached by rail and omnibus

Hotels : Des Isles Borromées, moderate and via Novara (see Route 5). A few miles from

finely placed ; Milan. English Church Service at Omegna is Monte Motterone, close to the Simplon

Hotel des Iles. Road, overlooking Lago Maggiore, and embracing

[The head of the Lake is at one of the finest panoramas in the Alps. (BALL'S Guide to the Western Alps.)

Magadino (population, 770) in Swiss territory. ROUTE 8.

Hotel: Bellevue.

Voitures can be had here at moderate charges, Turin to Novara, Arona, and Lake for the passage of St. Gothard or the Bernardino. Maggiore.

This town is becoming of considerable im

portance from its central situation at the mouth of The stations from Novara (see Route 5) are:

the Ticino. It is one of the most picturesque spots Miles.

Miles,

on the route from Bellinzona to Milan, Bellinzago ......... 8: Borgo Ticino ......

17

The steamer calls here daily and proceeds to Oleggio................ Arona ............... 23

Locarno, and other places, landing passengers at Varallo Pombia ... 15. I

the chief towns on both shores of Lago Maggiore, Oleggio (Stat.) Population, 7,936. Here are

and at the Borromean Islands.] manufactories of silk.

From Arona, by diligence (2 hours), to Borgo Ticino (Stat.), population, 2, 157, near Baveno. the River Ticino, which runs out of Lake Maggiore. Hotels : Grand Hotel Baveno; Grand Hotel de

Bellevue. Arona (Stat.), at the terminus of the rail, near

English Divine Service at the Chapel in the grounds the bottom of the lake. Population, 4,500.

of Villa Clara, a seat belonging to C. Henfrey, Hotel: D'Italia and Post, on a fine part of the Esq. (built by Bulnois), which was occupied by Lake.

Queen Victoria on her visit to the Lake, March, 1879. This is a small town on the Simplon Road, con A charming village, under Monte Motterone, taining the Santa Maria's Church, in which are which is 4,817 feet high, and commands a noble paintings by G. Ferrari, and an old deserted seat view of the lakes and the snowy Alps. There are of the Borromeo family, remarkable as the birth inexhaustible quarries of excellent granite or place of St. Carlo Borromeo (1538). Near this is marble, which is easily worked and polished. Fine his great metal Statue; it stands on a hill, com red trout are caught. Boats to the Islands, 5 fr. manding a superb view of the lake, and is 66 feet for two hours. A steamer touches here in the high, besides a pedestal of 40 feet. By means of morning, on its way to Sesto Calende, at the bottom ladders and some scrambling you may ascend his of Lago Maggiore. hollow body, and sit in the inside of his ear or his The nearest of the Borromean Islands is the nose. It was put up in 1697 by the Borromeo small family. Here Peter Martyr, the "master of sen ISOLA SUPERIORE, or Dei Piscatori (Fishermen's tences," was born.

Island), and its picturesque church, with a popuWhen Garibaldi arrived here in 1859, he found ! lation of 250. Further out is the ISOLA MADRE the alarm bells had been rung in all the districts (Mother, i.e., the Virgin's Island), which is a mass around, in spite of the Austrian flying columns, of foliage, native and exotic, laid out in alleys which occupied them in turn. Letting the people and terraces, through which beautiful views of of Arona believe he was going to remain there, the lakes and surrounding bills are caught. There he left secretly by night with his volunteers, and is a profusion of oranges, lemons, tropical plants, marched on Casteletto Ticino. In spite of the besides aviaries of birds, but the only building is Austrian steamers cruising in the lake, he safely an unfinished palace of the Borromeo family landed his Cacciatori on the Austrian side of the which the gardener (who shows the island) lives Ticino, near Sesto Calende, and on the evening of in. To the west, in shore, is the pretty Isola di the 23rd, made his entry into Varese, in the midst | S. Giovanni, or the Isolino (little island) with of a violent storm. The whole population turned gardens. out to welcome their liberators. After being Isola Bella (to the south), the Beautiful Island, hastily fortified, it was attacked by General I is more a work of art, and perhaps less charming Urban's division, 5,000 strong, but they were than the other. It rises up in a pyramid of ten beaten oft here and at Maluate by the victorious terraces or hanging gardens, first laid out by Count

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