Robillante, in the picturesque valley of the Vermenagna. Limone, at the foot of the Col di Tenda, is about 3,340 feet above the sea, and has a population of 3,160, many of whom are muleteers. About 3 hours east is the ancient Certosa (Carthusian house) di Pesio, now a hydropathic establishment, in a warm and pleasant spot; and an excursion may be made to the head of the Vermanagna, in a wild glen, and the Abisso, 9,193 feet high. At Limone, the ascent of the Col begins, over the Maritime Alps, by a narrow winding carriage road, full of sharp zigzags, made by Vittore Amadeo IV. The summit is about 6,160 feet high, and commands a fine view of the Western Alps, with a glimpse of the Mediterranean. Here is the limit of the Apennines on one side, covered with green to their summits, and of the Alps on the other side, as marked by a combination of snow or ice, with rock. Another long series of zig-zags leads down from the Col through the valley of the Roja, to Tenda (population, 1,734). An old castle of Beatrice di Tenda. Pass the old abbey and Hydropathic house of S. Dalmazzo; then Fontan, on the new French boundary, where passports are asked. The scenery is romantic, especially about the defile of Saorgio, on the Roja, which forms the French boundary down to Ventimiglia, since the annexation of the country of Nice. Giandola, near the Col de Brouis, which rises and falls about 1,500 feet. Sospello (population, 3,600), on the Bevera, a branch of the Roja. Hotel: Cárenco. From Turin (page 1), the first station is Moncalieri (Stat.), population, 10,000, and its royal castle, of large red brick, a favourite seat of the King's, on the Po. At Trofarello (Stat.), population, 1,242, we leave the Cuneo line. The Superga and the Alps to the north are in view, with glimpses of the Maritime Alps. The country on both sides is part of the old Marquisate of Montferrat, which merged into the Duchy of Savoy, in 1620. [A short line, 5 miles, to Chieri (population, 15,500), with its large Gothic Church of Santa Maria della Scala. An old place, with silk and cotton factories.] Asti (Stat.), the ancient Hasta Pompeia, on the Tanaro, at its confluence with the Borbore. Population, 17,340. Branch lines to Alba (Route 3), and to Casale (Route 5), and Milan. Inns: Albergo Reale. This is the capital of a province, and the centre of one of the best wines of Italy, the Vino d'Asti, both red and sparkling white; it is also noted for truffles and silk goods, and has some mineral springs. Among the buildings are the large Gothic Cathedral, on the site of a Temple of Diana, built 1348, with paintings by Carloni, Pozzi. &c.; the Churches of S. Pietro in Concava and S. Secondo (Gothic); S. Giovanne, with a 6th century crypt; S. Pietro, eight-sided; and the Trinco, Massetti, and Alfieri Palaces, in the last of which Alfieri, the poet, was born, 1749; they show his room, with his portrait and autograph. His statue is here. The site of the old walls and one hundred towers of Asti is now covered with gardens. It is so ancient as to have been taken by Hannibal. Felizzano (Stat.), on the Tanaro. Further down this stream which it crosses by a viaduct on fifteen arches, is ALESSANDRIA (Stat.), About half-way to Genoa, and the centre of various lines which strike off to Novara, Pavia, Milan, Piacenza, and Acqui. Population, 30,765. Hotels: Europa; L'Universo. This is the capital of a province, a city, and a fortress of the first class, on the confines of the Marquisates of Montferrat and Pavezano, at the junction of the Tanaro and Bormida, built by the Lombard League of free towns, 1168, as a barrier against the Ghibeline party ofthe EmperorFrederick Barbarossa. It was named after Pope Alexander III., the head of the Guelph party. When the Emperor tried to take it in 1174, his soldiers nicknamed it Alessandria della Paglia, or straw Alexandria, because its houses were covered with straw; but it was able to drive them off after a four months' siege. It is still one of the strongest military forts in Italy, though nothing but the Great Citadel, built 1728, by Vittore Amadeo II. remains; the fortifications added by Napoleon, having been razed by the Treaty of Vienna. The flat country around is often inundated by the rain, and can be put under water by the sluices of the Citadel. A new covered bridge crosses the Tanaro. The Citadel, like the houses, is built of brick, and its ramparts serve as a promenade, for the April and October fair, when a good deal of business is done. During the present reign, and since the war with Austria, great pains have been taken to strengthen this fortress. The other buildings are a Cathedral (Parodi's statue of still found useful in curing gout, rheumatism, paralysis, &c. Population, 10,000. There are some arches of an aqueduct; with a cathedral of the twelfth century, and a theatre. In the middle ages Acqui was the capital of Upper Montferrat; a district rich in corn, wine, silk, cattle, &c., and giving name to the country dance, called Montredina. Passing Bistagno, where the two heads of the St. Joseph); S. Lorenzo's Church, with its paint-Bormida join, follow the road for 28 miles, to ings by the Pozzi; Town House, Theatre, Hospital, and the Ghilino Palace, belonging to the King, and erected by Alfieri. "I chanced to pass (says Count Arrivabene) through Alessandria, so full of glorious recollections for a Bonaparte, on the day on which Louis Napoleon made his entry in 1859. Triumphal arches had been thrown across the streets. At the gate of Porta Marengo, which leads to the famous field of battle, made illustrious by the First Consul, an arch had been erected, on which was emblazoned in tri-coloured letters. To the descendant of the Conqueror of Marengo. Victor Emmanuel had gone to meet the Emperor. The gay and busy appearance of Alessandria at that time contrasted singularly with the stern severity of its old palaces and half decayed medieval churches." Ratazzi, the statesman, was born at this town. MARENGO, The site of the battle which Bonaparte lost and won, 14th June, 1800, is 2 miles east, on the wide plain of S. Giuliano, dotted with willows. At three o'clock, he was beaten by the Austrians, and their old General, Melas, had come to Alessandria after sending off news of his victory; when, at this crisis, Dessaix arrived with 6,000 fresh troops, attacked the enemy, and, though mortally wounded, turned the day. Kellerman. by a brilliant charge of his cavalry, cut the Austrian infantry in two, drove their cavalry in flight to the Bormida, and took Zach, who was left in authority, prisoner. The total Austrian loss was 12,000; and that of the French, 7,000; but the Convention of Alessandria, a few days later, put them in possession of all North Italy. A building has been erected on the site, which contains a Museum of every object of interest found on the field of battle. For the rails to Novara, Pavia, and Milan, and to Piacenza see page 11, and Routes 14 and 15. From Alessandria, a branch rail ascends the Bormida, following the track of the Via Aurelia Posthuma, to Acqui and Savona. The stations Dego, where Bonaparte beat the Allies, in 1796, after defeating them at Montenotte, near the Col of that name, higher up; over which the old road to Savona used to pass, until superseded by a more easy one, constructed in 1800, between Altare and Cadibona. By this the descent of the Apennines is made to the Riviera and Savona, about 25 miles from Dego. But the most direct way to Savona, now, is by the rail as above, which falls into the main line from Turin, at S. Giuseppe de Cairo (Stat.), as in Route 3. For Savona see page 21. Leaving Alessandria, the next station on the main line, is Frugarolo (Stat.), population, 2,494, near which is the richly endowed Benedictine Abbey of Bosco, with its sculptures by M. Angelo; but the country is flat and dull. Novi (Stat.) Under the north side of the Apennines, is a retreat for the Genoese merchants in autumn, and commands from its old tower and country houses a fine prospect of the distant Alps. Population, 11,450. Hotels: L'Europa; Aquila Nera. Its white silk is of excellent quality. Here the French were defeated by the Austrians and Russians, in 1796, and General Joubert killed. From Novi, before the railway was made, the old road went over the Ligurian Apennines, by the Col della Bochetta, past Gavi and Voltaggio, and a succession of gorges and ravines. The highest part of the Col is about 2,500 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. It was crossed by the French in 1796. The Valley of Polceverra, between this and the sea, a wild and desolate spot till reclaimed by the Genoese, is now covered with groves of chestnut, ilex, arbutus, vineyards, gardens, country houses, though it is apt to suffer from floods. The railway from Novi passes Serravalle (Stat.), on to Arquata (Stat.), population, 2,795, where the tunnels or galleries, and viaducts, for penetrating the Apennines, begin, at the summit level of the line. Between this and Ronco are, first of all, an embankment in a ravine, 33 yards high; then Pietra Bisdara Tunnel, 750 yards; a viaduct, 330 yards long, 33 high, crossing a mountain torrent, 44 yards wide; Isola del Cantone Viaduct, 275 yards long, and 28 high; and then two tunnels, of 922 yards and 484 yards, and that of Villavechia, in the heart of some romantic scenery. The next stations are Ronco (Stat.), population, 3,104, and Busalla (Stat.) Population, 2,734. A small village, where the Giove Tunnel, the greatest on the line, begins, 3,410 yards long. The rise from Alessandria to Arquata is 293 yards, and the fall hence to Genoa is 379 yards. Two bridges, four tunnels, or galleries, through Monte Armirotti, bring the line down to Ponte Decimo (Stat.), population, 3,870, in the Polceverra Valley, on the Mediterranean side of the mountains. Here, as elsewhere, strong embankments are used to protect the rail from the effects of the torrents. The traveller now finds himself in a new and Italian climate, under which oranges, peaches, apricots, and myrtles flourish in early spring, with a sunny, cloudless sky. passes S. Quirico, &c., and Sampierdarena, or It S. Pier d'Arena (Stat.) Population, 19,500. A handsome church, the Spinola, Sauli, and other palaces, and a tobacco factory. Then by the S. Lazzaro Tunnel, or gallery, under Monte S. Benigno, to the suburb of Della Grazie, and the Genoa terminus, close to Piazza Acquaverde. (See Route 9.) Alessandria to Piacenza. San Germano Milan. 90 37 Tortona (Stat.) Population, 13,218. A bishop's see, on a hill in a fertile plain, with a cathedral, a new theatre, college, and several churches. The cathedral contains an ancient basrelief of the downfall of Phaëton, with inscriptions in Greek. It was the ancient Dertona, and joined the Lombard League. Here a branch to Novi, on the main line towards Genoa, falls in. The field of Marengo is to the west (see page 9). Pass the Curone to Pontecurone (Stat.) Population, 2,579. Voghera (Stat.) Population, 13,201. Another bishop's see, and the ancient Vicus Iriae, near the borders of the old Duchy of Piacenza. It was bought of the Pozzo family by Carlo Emanuele I., and is now in the province of Pavia.` The cathedral is a good building of the seventeenth century, and has paintings by S. Crespi. 37 This route follows the north side of the Po, as far as Chivasso, and is at the foot of the Alps, all the way. Two short branches not far from Turin -One at Venaria Reale (Stat.) goes off to Ciriè (Stat.), 13 miles, and Lanzo (Stat.), 20 miles; Another goes off to Rivarolo (Stat.), 14 miles; connected by omnibus service with their neighbourhoods. Leaving the terminus, the Superga is seen on the right, and after crossing the Stura, we reach Settimo (Stat.) or Settimo Torinese (population, 3,664), the Roman Ad Septimam, at the seventh mile from Augusta Taurinorum. Cross the Orco before reaching Chivasso (Stat.) Population, 8,781.-An old place, formerly the seat of the Marquises of Montferrat, whose ruined Castle is here, with a church of the fifteenth century. The fortifications were razed by the French in 1804. Good lampreys here. Here the rail to Ivrea and Aosta, and the routes to Mount Iseran and the back of Mont Blanc, are taken. (See Route 6.) [Branch line, 30 miles, down the Po, to Casale. The first place of any importance is Crescentino, 13 miles, after crossing the Dora Baltea. There are Roman remains near it. Population, 2,800. On the opposite side of the Po is Verna (population, 2,850), on a hill; once fortified, but dismantled by the French. Trino, 11 miles, in a tract of low, swampy, meadow land; has a population of 9,500, and is famous for its cattle and hams. Cross the Po to Casale, CASALE (Stat.), The capital of the province and old Marquisate of Montferrat, and a strong military post, containing the ancient Casale, or fortified house of the family, from which it gets its name, and the Orologio Tower. It stands on the cross rail between Alessandria and Vercelli. Population, 17,096. Many Jews are established here, and there is a good trade in silk-twist, wine, and rice. Among the public buildings are the Duomo or Cathedral, in the Lombard style of the tenth century, with G. Ferrari's Baptism of Christ and the statue of Bernini; Santa Caterina's Church and its paintings; S. Domenica, founded by the Palaeologus family, whose tomb is here; a theatre, prefettura, college, and some old palaces, including Della Valle, which has some of G. Romano's frescoes. Railways to Vercelli, Valenza, Asti, Mortara, Milan, Pavia, and Alessandria. A line from Casale, across the Po, through flat, unhealthy, rice fields, to Mortara (population, 6,844), on the cross rails from Novara to Alessandria, and from Pavia to Vercelli. From Mortara to Vigevano (population, 13,684), which has a Gothic cathedral and old castle. Cross the Ticino to Abbiategrosso, in Lombardy; thence to Milan. About 10 miles south-west of Casale, on the line to Asti, is Moncalvo (Stat.), population, 4,007, the birth-place of Caccia, the painter, some of whose works are at the Franciscan Convent. About 15 miles from Moncalvo is Asti, see page 9.] After Chivasso, on the Milan Railway, we cross the Dora Baltea. On the right of the Po is Montea del Po, the site of the Roman Industria, on a hill, and soon after Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn come into view in the Alps on the left. At Leri, near this, was the country seat of Cavour, to which he retired upon his resignation in 1859; though he continued to advise the men in power, and to answer the telegraphic despatches sent to him daily from all parts of Italy. He rose at 3 a.m., and after despatching letters, went to his farm, and there received visitors, or consulted with the numerous able and patriotic men who from him learnt to guide the destinies of Italy. Here a Santhià (Stat.) Population, 5,065. railway of 18 miles runs up the side of the hills to Biella in 1 hour, passing Sallussola and three other stations. (See Route 7.) restored in 1823. Here is a very ancient vellum MS. of the Gospels in Latin, by Eusebius, Bishop of Vercelli in the fourth century; it is bound in silver. The churches of St. Cristoforo, Santa Caterina, and S. Bernardino, have frescoes by Ferrari. The old Church of Santa Maria Maggiore has a curious mosaic pavement; S. Andrea is an old Lombardo-Gothic building, founded in 1219-22, by Cardinal Bicchieri, Papal legate to King John of England, with a detached bell tower, or campanile. The doors and windows are round-headed, but the pointed arch appears in the nave. It is said to be nearly the oldest specimen of this style in Italy, and to have been designed by an EnglishmanBrigwithe, the arrangement being similar to Buildwas and Kirkstall Abbeys. There are a town house, theatre, large old hospital; the Tizzini, Motta, Asigliano, and Gattinara palaces, with pictures and frescoes; a statue of Cavour; and the Victor Emmanuel pillar. The In 1859, as early as the 5th of March, General Gyulai, the Austrian commander, had concentrated numerous troops here, on the right bank of the Sesia, thus threatening the line of the Dora-Baltea and the town of Toreo; they also occupied Trino and Gattinara, with the intention of getting possession of Turin by a coup de main. In this they were frustrated by the concentration of the allied French and Sardinian armies, and after wasting time in useless and feeble demonstrations they were compelled to retreat, and the campaign was lost to them. They were also defeated at Palestro, a small village three miles east of Vercelli, which slopes down towards the Sesia, and had been strongly fortified by the Austrian general, Zobel, on 30th May. It was held by a Bohemian division and two battalions of Tyrolese sharpshooters, with twenty field pieces and four howitzers. ground being still muddy, from the rain of the previous night, it was difficult to take the position by assault. However, after a hard fight of two hours and a half, it was carried at the point of the bayonet; and the Austrians were routed, and compelled to retreat on Bobbio and Mortara, with the loss of two guns and many killed and wounded. Thus their "first battle was their first victory," as Victor Emmanuel announced to his army in his order of the day. Zobel attempted to retake Palestro the day after, but was again thoroughly beaten, the king himself leading the attacking column in the thick of the action. Several of the officers of his staff were wounded. His heroism made such an impression on the third regiment of Zouaves that they elected him their corporal, an honour similar to that paid to Bonaparte after the battle of Montenotte. [Here a railway branches off to Valenza, 26 miles. The stations are:Miles. 5 ............ Asigliano Pertengo............... 73 10 Balzola Casale 14 Miles Borgo S. Martino... 18 Giarole 212 Valenza ............... 264 At Valenza it joins the line from Milan to Alessandria.] After passing Borgo Vercelli (Stat.), population 2,500, and Ponzana (Stat.), in a wide rice level, in full view of Monte Rosa, we reach NOVARA (Stat.), On a hill by the River Agogna. Population, 15,235. Hotels: Italia del la Villa; Antico. This ancient town, the Roman Novaria, once fortified by 2 miles of ramparts, still retains some remnants of its walls and towers. The Duomo was an early Lombard building, on the site of a basilica or temple, but it has been much altered in the course of restoration. The portico which replaces the atrium contains several inscriptions; in the vestibule is the, monument of C. Solari or Gobbo. The baptistery is eight-sided and crowned with a dome. Within are Thorwaldsen's Angels (at the altar), and paintings by G. Ferrari, Bordone, &c. St. Gaudenzio's Church, rebuilt in the tenth century by P. Pellegrini, has frescoes, &c., by Ferrari, Caccia, &c. At S. Pietro al Rosario and S. Marco are works by Procaccini and others. The Palazzo di Giustizia was built 1346. The Bellini, Leonardi, Giovanetti, and Falcone Palaces are worth notice. Other buildings are the large market; the theatre, near Marchesi's statue of Carlo Emanuele III; a large Hospital; and Statues of Carlo Alberto and Cavour. Bossi, the historian, and Prina, Napoleon's minister at Milan (who was murdered, 1814), were natives of Novara. It is memorable for the battle of 23rd March, 1849, in which Radetzky, with 80,000 men and 200 guns, defeated Charles Albert, whose forces numbered only about half as many, with the loss of 10,000 killed and wounded. This defeat led to the king's abdication the same evening, in the presence of his sons and generals, in favour of Victor Emmanuel, then Duke of Savoy. He left the country immediately with only one servant, and returned to Oporto, where he died 13th July, 1849. Several of his predecessors had abdicated in like manner, among whom were Victor Amadeus, in 1730; Charles Emmanuel IV., in 1802; and Victor Emmanuel I., in 1829. It is also celebrated for the victory gained by the Sardinians and French Zouaves over the Austrians, 31st May, 1859, which obliged them to retreat into Lombardy. From Novara a line (opened 1883) passes through Fara, Romagnano, Grignasco, &c., to Varallo (page 17). [The line from Mortara, &c., falls in at Novara, and is continued to Arona, 23 miles further, see Route 8. From Novara, Lake Orta may be reached by a branch rail through Gozzano. This line is being continued through Gravellona-Toce to Domo d'Ossola.] The next station to Novara is Trecate (population 6,203), a small town; after which the Ticino, the old boundary of Sardinia and Austrian Lombardy, is crossed by a viaduct, not far from the Ponte Nuovo Bridge for the post road, 1,000 feet long, on eleven stone arches, begun by the French, 1810, and finished, 1827. The Austrians tried to blow it up in 1859, on their retreat, before the battle of Magenta. After this comes the Maggiore Grande, a canal of the thirteenth century, cut from Lago Maggiore to Milan; then follows MAGENTA (Stat.) Population, 6,050. The ancient Maxentia, the site of the famous battle of 4th June, 1859; with a monument to mark the spot, erected in 1872. The position of the Austrians is described by Count Arrivabene:- "If, on crossing the Ticino, we place ourselves at the extremity of the Bridge of Buffalora, the heights on which the hamlet of Buffalora stands are on our left, the Ponte Nuovo of Magenta in the centre, and the old bridge to our right. We see that the ridge which formed the Austrian position is a sort of bow, whose arrow would be the road. On each side of this road the ground is covered with cornfields, vineyards, and groves of trees, and intersected by several streams which pour their waters into the meadows where rice is cultivated. Robechetto, Castelleto, Induno, Santo Stefano, Buffalora (population 1,260), Magenta, Robeccoall villages or small boroughs, of greater or less importance-are seen amidst that splendid scenery; some relieved against the background of the Alps, which lift their majestic heads on the far horizon. In the valley, the road is elevated 20 or 30 feet above the fields, and rises still higher on its approach to the eastern slopes. Finally it reaches the table-land of the Lombard side, on the border of which is carried the Naviglio Grande, whose waters run almost parallel with the Ticino. On approaching this plateau, the railway is seen emerging from the bank, about half a mile to the right.' This well chosen position of the Austrians could only be approached by the central road abovementioned, the railway on the right, or by a road somewhat to the left, towards Buffalora; and could not be commanded at any point. The Austrians had 89,000 against 133,000 French; but the French had to cross a river to get at them. Gyulai's headquarters were at Abbiate Grosso with his left wing; his right was at Magenta, and main body between Abbiate Grosso and Robecco. His object was to cut off the French from the bridges of San Martino and Buffalora, and to isolate those who had crossed the Ticino. On the 4th the French had no definite knowledge of the position of the Austrians. MacMahon with his corps and the Sardinian army marched trom Turbigo on to Buffalora; Canrobert advanced by the right branch towards the Bridge of Buffalora, and Niel was ready to join from Trecate. Buffalora Bridge was the central point, where the French laid a pontoon bridge close to a stone one which had been partly destroyed by the Austrians. It was held for many hours, before Niel and Canrobert came, by the Imperial Guard. |