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Observations

ON

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS

FOR FEBRUARY, 1858.

In our first plate we have given two very elegant out-of-door costumes; the velvet Mantelet which will be in great favour as the spring advances, and the Burnous châle, which is now the most stylish mantle of the

season.

Pelisses and Casaques will be as fashionable as ever, and deservedly so, as nothing is so becoming to the figure, or so much adapted for the promenade.

Flounces have not been so much worn, not being suited to the woollen and heavier materials of which our winter dresses are composed, but when these are thrown aside, and silks and lighter materials take their place, flounces will be as much in vogue as ever rich brocades, moire antiques, velours d'orient, and poplins will have side trimmings either in velvet or rich passementeries.

Jacket bodies will still be worn; they will be closed up the front; when the skirts have side trimmings, the bodies will be ornamented to correspond; when flounced, the jackets will have either bèrthe or bretelles capes.

Sleeves are worn very wide and open the Sultane is a very graceful sleeve, and likely

to become fashionable.

We have given in our 3rd plate two elegant evening dresses, and in our 4th plate a bridal costume.

Bonnets vary but little in form; we have selected a few of the most useful styles for our 5th plate, and have given some elegant and becoming morning caps, together with a canezou to be worn over a low dress, for dinner, and quiet evening parties.

The Coart and Bigh Life.

The marriage of her Royal Highness the Princess Royal with the Prince Frederick William Nicholas Charles, of Prussia, is the engrossing topic of interest in the circles of high life. Hymen has brought in the new year most happily, and love goes with him hand in hand. We believe that the union is really one of affection, and that higher and better considerations than those of merely state policy, form the basis of those

anticipations of happiness which are universally entertained. The Princess Royal possesses all the qualities of mind and heart which are calculated to inspire happiness, and although early marriages, generally speaking, are objectionable, on account of the immature judgment and the romantic enthusiasm of very youthful lovers, the Royal bride, in this case, possesses such natural greatness and good sense as to stand upon a level with ladies many years older than herself. The wedding ceremony, which took place at the Chapel Royal, St. James's, on the 25th ult., was extremely magnificent; a vast assemblage of illustrious and noble personages being present upon the occasion. The old palace of St. James's had been gorgeously ornamented, and great alterations. had taken place in the arrangement of the Chapel itself, so as to accomadate the largest possible number of persons; nevertheless, it was found impossible to gratify anything like the whole of the personages of high rank who desired to see the brilliant and interesting ceremony.

The rejoicings in consequence of this happy event have been great and universal. A State ball and concert, a Drawing-room at St. James's, and some important theatrical representations have kept the fashionable world in a continued state of happy excitement. The illustrious Princess and her Royal husband propose to leave England on the 2nd of February; and sure we are that the prayers and good wishes of the entire people of this country will go with them.

Among the magnificent presents received by the royal bride is one which, though simple in stself, possesses a peculiar interest. It is only a riding-whip, but is a momento of a very favourite horse. The butt is formed from a piece of the hoof, set in a hoof of solid gold. The shoe of this golden hoof is formed of diamonds, the nails being represented by fourteen beautiful rubies; the whole of the bottom of the foot is a mass of small diamonds. The handle of the whip is formed from one of the horse's bones, most highly polished, round which is twined at serpent in brilliants.

One of the Princes Polignac was married a short time since to Victorine, the great dressmaker; and a modiste of the Rue Richelieu has just bought the hand of an influential member of the Senate and descendant of one of the noblest houses of France, by means of the great wealth she has amassed in her calling.

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WHEN Jasper Thornhill was a child, the adjacent estates were possessed by a veteran naval officer, one of those hard-headed, resolutely obstinate heroes of his time, who thought of nothing but "nailing their colours to the mast," and conquering or dying, for the sake of their country! Admiral Sir Hector Wickford carried his "conquering or dying" propensities into the relations of domestic life; so that, although the partner and sole part of his joys very dutifully, properly, and-yes, affectionately, prayed for him in his absence, and wished that he might soon be restored to her, yet he was seldom at home more than a week, before Lady Wickford, with all her heart, wished him back to his ship, and far out at sea again.

The Wickfords had "one fair daughter and no more," and the Thornhill's had one son; and when the two fathers and neighbours sat hob-nobbing on a summer's afternoon, under the elms in their gardens, with the children playing about them, it came into their wise heads that it would be a pretty thing to make a match between the little ones; so one day, when this idea was in discussion, old Admiral Wickford, his head and heart full of the squire's ancient tawney port, made a vow, then and there, that married they should be when they were old enough; and before he went to bed that night, he scribbled his wishes on the back of his will, as an injunction which his executrix should faithfully carry into execution.

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But Sir Hector Wickford coming suddenly into possession of some West Indian property, the English household was broken Lucinda was left in England, at school, and spent her holidays with old Lady Thornhill, after her husband's death, and Jasper had gone abroad. There she became acquainted with Sybil Meadows, whose simple innocence was a constant theme of mirth to her: but Sybil, who appreciated all that was good in

Lucinda, looked with regret upon her levity. A few years afterwards, the old Admiral ceased from "conquering," and died. Lucinda Wickford was therefore recalled from school, and for some few years remained with her mother in Jamaica: she grew up a sharp, smart girl, and then blossomed into a bold and spirited woman. Lady Wickford tried hard to assume the commanding airs of the Admiral; but Lucinda was more successful in that way. The spirit of the widow was only imitative, but Lucinda took it naturally; hence, there were continual bickerings and small wars in the domestic establishment; and Lady Wickford, feeling her inferiority, and being desirous, as every woman should, of ruling in her own castle, suddenly bethought her of the injunction in the dead old Admiral's will: so without giving Lucinda notice of her intentions, she made quiet preparation for leaving Jamaica, and returning to England in search of the Thornhills; and it was only on the eve of enbarkation that the young lady was told of the voyage that lay before her.

Lucinda was at first disposed to raise the flag of resistance; but recollections of the old Admiral were strong upon the widow at that moment, and her courage prevailed. Her victory over the pretty rebel was complete. It might not have been so, if she had not craftily thrown into the argument the fact that she was in search of a handsome husband for Lucinda.

Let it not be conjectured that any reflection upon the fair is intended here. Every young lady has a reasonable hope of matrimony. Some A husband is her destiny. have a different destiny, and are none the less happy. There may be bright eyes peering over this page, whose owners are decidedly of opinion (from experience) that the single destiny is better than the coupled one; but Lucinda knew that, in a general way, woman's birthright is a husband; and she liked her birthright very well. The old Admiral himself never contemplated the command of a ship with more satisfaction, than that with which his daughter contemplated the command of a husband.

The voyage home was not a calm voyage. The weather was bad all the way, which was enough to ruffle the temper of a more patient angel of the earth thau Lucinda Wickford. Strangely enough, however, as it seemed to the Admiral's widow, never was angel of earth more docile, more complying, more obedient. The darkest sky was not reflected upon Lucinda's countenance, where all was

brightness and serenity; and whereas she had hitherto disliked the sea, and never hesitated to express her dislike in the severest terms which became a young lady's lips, she was now impressed with the grandeur of the waves, and the sublimity of a storm; although she was certainly glad when the storm had passed over. Lady Wickford attributed this to her own management. She had succeeded at last! The old Admiral's wand of authority was submitted to, in her hands! She was inwardly very much satisfied with herself, and plumed her vanity accordingly.

Her eyes were opened a little, when, on their arrival in England, and the passengers took leave of each other, a gentleman who had been courteous to them throughout the voyage, asked permission to visit them on shore. Lucinda was so evidently afraid of what her mother would say in reply, that the latter, who had not seen such a look upon her daughter's face since the Admiral's death, suspected what the matter was; but being pleased herself with the agreeable manners of their new acquaintance, and concluding that the injunction of her father's will would be dutifully obeyed by Lucinda, she gave the required permission; and thus the connection between the Wickfords and Mr. Augustus Rosambert began.

Mr. Augustus Rosambert was a large, tall, and well-proportioned man, rather too Herculean to suit ideas of correct taste; but he possessed a fine head of dark hair and whiskers to match, a merry sparkling blue eye, and his conversational powers were inexhaustible. There was a slight accent in his speech which seemed to indicate that he was not a native of England; and Rosambert himself was the first to call attention to it, by volunteering an explanation, which proved highly satisfactory to the ladies, as it implied that his father had filled a responsible situation about the person of the French King. It was agreeable to the Admiral's widow to be visited by the son of a French courtier ; and Lucinda was delighted for another reason, which we need not stop to explain.

Jasper Thornhill, wearied with the round of pleasures into which he had rushed, after being deceived by his first love, had arrived in England soon after the Wickfords. He recollected the engagement which his father and the Admiral had made, for it had often been laughingly adverted to, and when pressed to fulfil that engagement by the Admiral's widow, in the amiably persuasive

manner which is peculiar to ladies of a certain age and experience, he made no objection; and Lady Wickford congratulated herself upon another victory.

The fact was, Jasper Thornhill cared for nothing. Life had no variety for him, pleasures no charm. He thought it a ridiculous thing that his mother should have clogged his inheritance with the legacy of Sybil Meadows, and he wished to drive the girl away. It was requisite that his house should have a mistress; therefore, it was his duty to marry. As well marry Lucinda Wickford as anybody else: she was a fine, spirited girl, and her fortune rendered her a suitable match. When this understanding had been come to, Jasper and Matthew Macaw (who had come to London to meet him on his return to England,) went down to Thornhill Manor; Lady Wickford and Lucinda who received an invitation to spend a week there, agreed to go in a month's time. The interval was to be occupied by Jasper and his revelling companions in annoying unfortunate Sybil.

Rosambert now pressed his suit openly to Lucinda, and Lucinda, delighted to be loved. by so handsome a man, gave a quick approval. The Admiral's widow, a little more sagacious, instituted inquiries, the result of which was not satisfactory. Taking up a new clue, she followed it to the sister island, still to the prejudice of handsome Augustus, and at length the diligent lady became satisfied that however high and respectable the connections of handsome Augustus might be, and however large his fortune in high spirits and good humour, his pecuniary means were decidedly low. The spirit of the old Admiral rose within her, and Augustus Rosambert was forbidden to enter the house any more.

But there was another spirit in the house : and the old Jamaica feuds were revived in their intensity.

CHAPTER III.

A PRESENCE IN THE ROOM.

"As some lone bird without a mate,
My weary heart is desolate :

I look around, and cannot trace
One friendly smile or welcome face:
And even in crowds am still alone,
Because I cannot love but one."—Byron.

MRS. Matthew Macaw could not control the delighted feelings which she experienced, or said she did, to find her cousin Jasper

once more at Thornhill Manor. "It seems a new joy added to my life!" exclaimed the enthusiastic lady, to which her apple-faced husband responded with his invariable "Ha! ha ha! yes, to be sure." Mr. Thornhill coolly took the profferred hand of the lady, and said, "How do you do?"

After so many years' absence, to say nothing more than "how do you do?" appeared to Mrs. Macaw a social impropriety, which, under different circumstances, she would have resented. But it was not her cue to be offended. Indeed, she said she was perfectly charmed at the improvement visible in her cousin's appearance and manners. "There is such a manly dignity in your bearing; such a healthful bloom upon your countenance, Jasper; such a fine expression in your eyes-quite the expression of your dear father's-bless his memory! is it not, Matthew ?"

Matthew replied, throwing open wide his large eyes and his large mouth also, “O, yes to be sure; ha! ha ha!"

"I wish it had been possible to welcome you to your inheritance," continued Mrs. Matthew Macaw, "free and untrammelled. It certainly is a heavy penalty to pay for fortune; but the dear old lady, your mother -honoured be her name!-meant no harm, I am sure and I am sensible that if she had been spared to make another will, she would have freed you from the obligation of such a clog hanging about you, as poor silly Sybil."

Jasper had thrown himself into a chair, and tossing off a glass of wine which Mrs. Macaw had obsequiously poured out for him, he said " Yes; my mother would have repaired the error, had she lived; certainly she would. We must now make the best of it. The girl may not be disposed, after all, to insist upon her right."

“H-u-m!" muttered Mrs. Macaw. "I should say that, silly though she looks, she knows the value of her hold upon you as well as anybody."

"O, she is silly is she?" exclaimed Jasper, taking another glass of wine.

"H-u-m!" responded Mrs. Macaw, again, "still waters run deep, and persons are not always such fools as they look."

"This will be unendurable !" cried Jasper. "We must endeavour to accommodate matters-marry her off to some countryman, with a portion."

"Ha ha! ha!" roared broad-faced, openeyed, Matthew, "that won't do, cousin. Your mother's will says she must be provided

for, and have a home here; and if she don't have a home in your house, the fortune comes to us. Oho! ha ha ha! What a good joke! ha ha! ha!"

"It would grieve us deeply, beloved cousin, to acquire property in such a way, believe me," said Matthew's wife. "Let us hope

that if this contrivance of ours to drive the girl away should not be so successful as we could desire, you may find her not altogether disagreeable; and so endure her, as we endure a pill, which we are obliged to take for the benefit of our health. I am sure I wish you very good health, dear cousin," and having poured about a spoonful of wine into a glass, the lady nodded to Jasper affectionately, and drank it off.

The deceiver! she herself had prompted Sybil in a manner so as to increase the dissati-faction of Jasper Thornhill. She had heard from Matthew what sort of a person Miss Wickford was, and quickly concluding that the manners of that young lady were agreeable to Jasper, she had over and over again impressed upon Sybil that if she wished to please the son of her benefactress, she must be very timid, fearful, and retiring; these being manners quite the opposite of Lucinda's, she believed they would be repulsive to the heir. Sybil, alas needed no tutoring in those ways. She was full of fear and apprehension, and her natural timidity was increased by the earnestness of Mrs. Macaw. The latter observed with much vexation, that the additional slight tinge of colour her emphatic recommendation brought into Sybil's cheeks, made her still more beautiful.

Beautiful! ay, more than earthly beautiful, was Sybil Meadows. Her whole life had been a stream of sunshine, and the perpetual joy of her young heart was reflected in her face. The dear old lady who had protected her, loved her as her own child; and with all the fondest affection of a child was the dear old lady's love repaid. It was a beautiful sight to see Lady Thornhill and her protegée walking side by side on the pathways and in the meadows, or sitting face to face by the firelight on a winter's night; the one inspired by gratitude, the other pervaded by the extatic joy which is produced by a consciousness of blessing the object by whom we are also blest. And when the good old lady lay faint and expiring in Martha Windsor's cottage, it was the blue eyes of Sy bil Meadows that beamed love almost divine around her; it was the fair face tinged with excitement, and the golden curls of Sybil

Meadows that she gazed upon, as she would upon an angel's face; and pressing Sybil's hand, she seemed to pass, conducted by an angel, to eternity.

Jasper Thornhill sat moody and discontented, with his chin resting on his hand, meditating on what his cousins had said: and Mrs. Macaw, satisfied that she had said enough for one time, sat as silently, speculating in her own mind on the probable issue of events. Matthew, who was the only indifferent person of the three, and careless how matters went, (though he would be well pleased if they went in his favour,) was the only one who heard a gentle tap at the door. He guessed who it was, and did not choose to reply, until the tap was repeated, and then he said, "Come in."

A presence gently glided into the room. It was unheeded by all, until a low, sweet voice, like spoken music, said, "you are welcome home again, Mr. Thornhill!"

Jasper, struck by the extreme sweetness of the tone, sat for an instant, motionless; then turning gently round, he beheld Sybil Meadows standing before him.

Her eyelids fell under his earnest gaze, and then he turned to Mrs. Macaw with a look of enquiry, which the lady understood, and said, "This is Sybil, cousin: she has grown out of knowledge, no doubt."

Jasper Thornhill rose from his seat, and taking the hand of Sybil in his own, stammered out some words of acknowledgment, and, to the astonishment of Mrs. Matthew Macaw, placed Sybil in his own chair, and scated himself in another, by her side.

To be continued in our next.

Pleasure-True pleasure is very delight-ful; but it is only to be found in the depths where truth aud goodness are. Mental depths, like the touches of the lute. make the sweetest and yet the stillest music of all. Intellectual vexations have most sting in them; why, then, should not intellectual delights have most honey iu them?

Joys of the Mind.-The joys which the mind produces are superior to all others. Such joys cost nothing; others are very dear. Mental joys are winter roses : the crown of youth, the delight of old age.

The Beginning of Evil.-There is many a good mother plans the ruin of the child she loves-teaching it the first lesson of wrongdoing by simply saying, "Now, don't tell your father." It is not at all strange that hypocrites and evil-minded people abound,

when weak, loving mothers, with honeyed words and caresses, sweeten the little teachings that so soon ripen into all kinds of meanness and unprincipled rascality. The father may be rigid in his way of bringing up his children, but he has a heart somewhere and surely, truthful, honest, loving words from his own child will find that warm place. So it is best not to deceive him, but keep his confidence whole and unshaken, and the whiteness of the soul unstained by that loathsome sin, deception.

The greatest Curiosity-It is said that a gentleman who helped his wife at table, in preference to a beautiful young lady who sat at the other side of him, is the greatest curiosity extant.

THE WIDOW'S DREAMS.

Gentle airs from heaven are falling,
In the silence of the night,
And I hear sweet voices calling,

From the realms of endless night:
Friends long lost come round me smiling,
Life's dark cup with joys to fill,
Darkest hours of all beguiling,

My heart's dear lord is with me still.
These are but dreams-

Alas, but dreams!
Which vanish with the morning's light,
But in the silence of the night,
Come such dreams-
Such happy dreams-
And fill my heart with soft delight.
Gentle airs from heaven are falling,
Life's dark cup with joy to fill,
And I hear sweet voices calling-
My heart's dear lord is with me still!-B.

The Cheatres.

Mr. Lumley has had a short and attractive winter season at Her Majesty's theatre, when some of the favourite Operas of his company were given with effect, although, with the exception of Piccolomini and Giuglini, the performances were inferior to those we are accustomed to see at this house. But these two stars are brilliant ones, and people have gone to hear them chiefly, and have not cared to criticise the singers in the smaller characters. The Operas performed have been the Trovatore, the Traviata, the Feglia, and Lucia di Lammermoor,

The English theatres have depended upon their pantomimes. At Drury Lane and the Lyceum, the spectacular portion of the entertainment is the best, whilst at the Princess's. Haymarket, &c., the comic business has received more attention; some pretty pastoral scenery at the last-named house is also admired.

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