PLATE THE FIRST.

PROMENADE COSTUME.

Fig. 1st.-Dress of light brown cashmere: it has a double skirt, the top one being trimmed at the sides with quilles of black velvet, that is, two rows of velvet cut in the shape of diamonds, the points meeting in the centre. High basquine body, buttoning to the throat, the basque deep, and trimmed with black lace and vandykes of velvet; the body is trimmed to correspond; one row forming a bèrthe, the other a collar; wide open sleeve, with small puff at the top. Bonnet of blue silk, trimmed with black velvet, lace, and feathers.

CARRIAGE COSTUME.

Fig. 2nd.-Dress à deux jupes of pale amber silk; the first skirt is made long, extremely full, and perfectly plain; the second skirt has a deep border formed by a number of narrow stripes woven in the material; below the stripes are two rows of very narrow fringe. Mantelet of black velvet, the ends pointed in the front; the body of the mantelet sits close in the front: the flounce and part forming the sleeve is cut èn bias; it is edged with a narrow watcred ribbon and jet trimming, below which, a very broad black lace is set on full; it is narrowed on the part forming sleeve; this part is covered by rows of jet trimming and watered ribbon; a second row of black lace falls over the velvet flounce, terminating at the sleeve; above this lace two rows of the watered ribbon and the jet trimming, which are continued entirely round the mantle; the bottom edge of the front ends are finished by a broad black lace. Bonnet of white and pink velours èpinglè, ornamented with white

blond and feathers; túlle cap with tresse of roses; strings of white velvet with pink stripe at the edge.

PROMENADE COSTUME.

Fig. 3rd.-Dress of violet moire antique, the skirt extremely full. Burnous châle of black velvet, the bottom of the hood trimmed with very broad black lace; round the opening of the hood, a narrow lace and jet trimming; the same on the collar; the hood and collar are ornamented by three large floss tassels. Bonnet of violet velours epinglè, trimmed with black lace and velvet; at the sides red berries; túlle cap with tresse of red berries, and foliage. This Mantelet and Burnous are from the MAGAZINES DE LA PRESIDENCE, Rue de la Chausèe d'Antin.

PLATE THE SECOND.

PROMENADE COSTUME.

Fig. 1st.-Dress of green gros de Tours, the skirt trimmed at the sides with fullings of the same, divided by a narrow black velvet chain. Pelisse of black velvet, faced and trimmed with light sable; the sleeves are of the wide pagoda form. Bonnet of pink velours epinglè trimmed with black lace flowers at each side: tulle cap with the same flowers.

YOUNG LADY'S COSTUME.

Fig. 2nd.-Frock of plaided poplin, very short and full. Burnous à manches of light drab cloth; the hood is square at the back, forming collar in the front: the sleeves are of the very wide pagoda form. Felt hat of the same colour as the Burnous; it is trimmed with black velvet.

it is tied in at the waist by a black silk cord and tassels: wide pagoda sleeves open in the front of the arm; they are trimmed with plush and closed by straps of black velvet. Full bouillon sleeves of French cambric, with narrow wristband.

PLATE THE THIRD.

EVENING OR BALL COSTUME.

Fig. 1st.-Sortie de bal of light purple satinfaced and trimmed round with ermine; the sleeves are very wide, are gathered in at the shoulders, and finished by a deep band of ermine.

BALL COSTUME.

Fig. 2nd.-Dress à deux jupes of figured taffetas; the first skirt is trimmed at the bottom with a double ruche of pink ribbon; above this are rûches festooned. The second skirt is simply trimmed with two rows of white silk fringe, each headed by a rúche. Body à pointe, it is trimmed èn stomacher by narrow fringe headed by a ruche, the top of corsage finished to correspond. Plain short sleeve, with double frill of taffetas, headed by a row of fringe and rûche.

BALL COSTUME.

Fig. 3rd. Jupe of white tarlatane entirely covered by bouillons of tûlle. Second jupe of blue glacée silk, open at the sides quite to the waist; it is held together by torsades of gold beads, in the centre of which, and at each end are small rosettes of white ribbon, with gold medallion in the centre. Corsage à pointe of blue silk opening on a stomacher of white glacée; the pointed capes form bèrthe at the back; the stomacher is crossed with torsades to correspond with the skirt. Short full sleeves of white túlle with epaulettes of blue silk, open in the front of arm; the opening ornamented with small torsades. The ornaments in the hair correspond with those on the dress. Calèche of pink silk bordered with white plush; it is lined with pink, wadded and quilted.

of the jacket a Greek border and deep fringe. Sleeves à la Sultane, trimmed to correspond. Bouillon sleeves of fine muslin, with worked cuff turned back, ornamented with narrow rose-coloured velvet. Collar to correspond.

PROMENADE COSTUME.

Fig. 1st.-Burnous of brown cloth, the hood ornamented with black velvet and tassels. Bonnet of lilac velours epinglè and bands of paille de riz: at each side fruit and foliage: tulle cap with fruit to correspond. BRIDE'S COSTUME.

Fig. 3rd.-Dress à deux jupes of white taffetas, they have each a deep flounce of English point, that on the second skirt being looped on the left side and headed by a rûche; from the bow which loops the flounce a double rüche descends on the second skirt. Plain high body buttoning to the throat; double bèrthe and collar of English point. The sleeve has a puff at the top with deep frill or flounce, finished by a row of English point headed by a narrow rûche; on the shoulder a bow of ribbon is placed between the rows of lace forming the bèrthe: very full bouillon sleeves of talle. The hair arranged with orange blossoms, and veil of English point.

PLATE THE FIFTH.

No. 1 is a cap of white tulle, with border of broad blond, on the crown are narrow bands of Napoleon blue velvet; across the top of the head loops of blue satin ribbon; in the front the edge of the blond lays over a tress of ribbon, terminated at each side by bows of the same; at the back is arranged a black lace lappet, from under which fall loops and long ends of blue ribbon; the ends of the lappet are finished by a black chenille fringe strings of broad blue ribbon left floating. No. 2 is a morning cap of spotted túlle with long lappets; both the cap and lappets are bordered by a rûche of tulle: across the head and over the curtain are rûches of pink silk edged with black lace, and at the sides large rosettes of pink silk and black lace. No. 3 is a bonnet having the soft round crown of white silk, the front covered by a triangular piece of ruby velvet; white silk curtain edged with velvet and covered by a white lace: a very broad black lace falls from the edge of the velvet, entirely covering both the crown and curtain; this is headed by a rûche of black lace, the edge

of front being finished with the same; tûlle cap with small blue flowers, broad strings of ruby velvet. No. 4 is a bonnet of velvet and white chip; the round soft crown is of dark green velvet; across the crown are three bias folds of plaid velvet, the colour light red, the stripes green and white; the front is white chip, and plaid velvet, green with red and white stripes; the deep curtain is of white chip edged with plaid velvet and nearly covered by a broad black lace; on the front a ruche of narrow black lace forming a chain; at each side dark green feathers: túlle cap with velvet tress and flowers to match the colour of the narrow folds: broad plaid strings. No. 5 is a morning cap of túlle with full curtain; it is bordered round by four very narrow tulle rûches set close together; fanchon terminating in long lap pets trimmed round to correspond, loop and bows of cerise velvet. No. 6 is another morning cap of Brussels net, with narrow lace border headed by a band of light green silk; at the back a double fulling of net forms the curtain; fanchon and lappets of green taffetas, trimmed with a narrow frill of the same, the edges being pinked; at the back a bow of taffetas. No. 7 is a Canezou of white net, trimmed with very narrow pink velvet; the broad net frill is edged with a narrow lace, above which are three rows of velvet; above the frill, which is headed by a narrow puff, the canezou is trimmed by four rows of velvet in vandykes enclosing an insertion; round the neck is a puff with very narrow rûche at each edge; below the frill this forms two loops, trimmed at one side by a lace and narrow velvet: the ends are trimmed to correspond. The sleeves have three puffs looped with velvet and ornamented with bows, the deep wristband has several rows of velvet. No. 8 is a bonnet of paille de riz; at a little distance from the front edge is a band of purple velvet; beyond this a broad black lace is set on full and falls over the front; it is continued round the curtain, which is edged with velvet; at the top of the curtain a puffing of velvet and narrow lace: tresse of purple velvet, tulle cap with purple grapes; broad strings of purple and white ribbon. No. 9 is a dress bonnet of white silk; at the front edge a band of light blue silk, then a row of narrow white blond, and a second band of blue silk very narrow; at a little distance from this is a narrow blue feather fringe : fanchon of white net covered by rows of narrow blond and bands of blue silk; at each side a blue feather, and feather fringe cross

ing the head: the curtain is edged with blue silk and blond; ends of blue ribbon fall over the curtain; túlle cap and broad blue strings. No. 10 has the crown of black satin, èn quadrille; the front and edge of curtain are of bands of terry velvet èn bias, the colour deep rose : a black lace is turned back and continued on the curtain, in the centre of which is a lace bow; cap of fulled túlle, tresse of small roses and buds, and broad rose-coloured strings. No. 11 is a bonnet of violet velvet, the crown covered èn fanchon; curtain of light green corded silk, with velvet band at the edge; the fanchon is trimmed round with a band of green silk and narrow black lace, and a band of the green silk is placed at a little distance from the front edge: tulle cap with roses and broad green strings.

DESCRIPTION OF FULL-SIZED
PATTERN.

The full-sized pattern for the present month is that of a jacket body for a silk or cashmere dress; it is called the Lancier body. The pattern consists of six pieces; the front, side-piece, back, top of sleeve, flounce of sleeve, and epaulette; we have given only half the top of sleeve and half the flounce of sleeve; the epaulette is given entire. This jacket buttons up the front, the position of the buttons is marked by small holes pricked in the pattern: to make it sit well, without creasing over the hips, a fish must be taken out across the side-piece, and side of front at the waist- line; we have indicated its size and position by pricked lines. There should be no seam down the middle of back; a row of six buttons should be placed on the seam which joins the side-piece to the back, on the jacket part only; we have marked their place on the pattern. The top part of the sleeve is put in to the armhole quite plain the bottom part of sleeve, or flounce, is laid in large hollow plaits and sewn to the bottom of the plain piece, placing the one cut near the seam of each piece opposite each other; the position of the plaits is marked by small pricked lines: the notch cut in the seam of this piece indicates how far it is to be left open. The epaulette falls over and conceals the joining of the flounce to the plain part of sleeve. This jacket is trimmed round with velvet or a band of watered silk, about half an inch wide, in addition to which, the epaulette should be trimmed with fringe. This pattern is for a stout figure, about 29 inches round the waist.