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pouring in upon him all day. One of the daughters, of whom, as he was luckily" from home at the moment, he can speak only by hearsay, but who was said to be a beauty of sixteen, waited on him with a bowl of nuts and walnuts, as a present from the family. He was more fortunate in personally receiving another visiter, the daughter of a Circassian noble, who was on a visit in the neighbourhood; "a very pretty girl, whose head and bosom were profusely decorated with lace, and ornaments of silver." She also brought a bowl of nuts and walnuts, and was presented with a pair of scissors in return. Both young ladies were extremely anxious to be sent to

"Stamboul," which our European vocabulary pronounces " selling them for slaves;" but which the young and handsome among these mountain nymphs look upon as pushing their fortune; in fact, as what the world of fashion among us calls "bringing out," and with nearly the same motives, and not much difference in the morality.

It being thus known that the Englishman had curiosities in his house, he was frequently honoured with similar levees of his host's family and their visiters. The young sultanas were enchanted with his musical snuff-box, and the display of his other European wonders. But the visits were strictly en règle; one or two old gentlemen, corresponding to our chaperons, accompanied them. There is nothing new under the sun. Some boys, sons of native nobles, who were living with the family for education, sometimes came. One of them, about nine years old, was soon to return home, having become an excellent rider, and one of the best of shots in the valley. He had completed his "education," and is probably by this time a classic hero, distinguished in the songs of his country for his havoc of the "Yellow-beards," and his eloquence in national harangues, at an age when, among us, he would be pea-shooting at Westminster, or rehearsing the typus barytonorum at Eton, with the certainty of never writing a line of longs or shorts from the moment when he arrived at years of discretion. But in this country we can afford to be idle.

Modern tourists are in the habit of tiring or tantalizing the reader, as the case may be, by giving a detail of

their breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, from the moment of landing at Calais. This is unnecessary, since we have ascertained that the French are not anthropophagi, though we allow its value in filling up a page. But the bill of fare in remote and barbaric countries is an indication of the state of the people. The Circassians seem to be well provided. The breakfast in this family (which was one only in the middle rank) was ample.

First were served sweet cake and milk; then, on a clean wooden fourfooted tray, a great mess of thick pasta, with a wooden bowl stuck in its middle, in which was the sauce, a mixture of milk, walnut oil, and capsicum. There were, unfortunately for the elegance of the table, no plates for the meat; but the pieces of boiled kid were arranged round the pasta, helped of course with the fingers. Then, to "promote the digestion of fat meats," as they said, was handed round a huge bowl of grape syrup and water, which is recommended as a specific; and after all came another large bowl full of kid-broth, thickened with beans, of which the guest was expected to taste. If this were the breakfast, what must be the dinner? We should regard the plethora as much more likely to finish the war than Russian generalship; and the Circassian warriors more likely to fall victims to dilated stomachs and short breath, than to the bullets of the Muscovite. We should, at all events, presume it speedily to disqualify the female stock in trade for the Constantinople market. No Circassian coaster seems equal to the tonnage of a freight of sultanas on this regimen.

But, at least, it shows that the natives have something to fight for; that they have property, independence, and skill to turn both to their proper purposes. We are not surprised, that comparing their own condition with the penury of the wretched serf of Russia, or the solitary savagery of the Cossack, they should think it better to fight the Czar than to serve him; to shoot his slaves in the field than to drag the chain in his deserts; and to live free in their pleasant valleys and noble forests, than to wear his harness, and go forth at his imperial bidding, to die in the fens of Poland, or freeze in the steppes of Tartary.

In making his progress through the

country, Mr Bell found establishments even on a larger scale, and not without luxuries. At the house of Achmet, a landowner in the valley of Vardan, a fine scene, closed on the east by high hills, in April still capped with snow, he was received in the "guest-house," which, though but lately finished, had "beautifully wrought mats" hung round the divan; the divan itself being furnished with silk curtains, a bed of a soft mattress bordered with velvet, velvet pillows, a quilted silk coverlet, and, "what was better than all, clean white sheeting."

Next morning he was agreeably surprised by seeing a handsome travelling tea-service taken out of a small chest, and some excellent tea handed round. This service, however, had been found in a Russian prize. Achmet, the master of the house, was rich, and had no less than fifty-two persons in his household.

Next day many chiefs arrived. Every man, and almost every boy, carried a rifle. They talked of war. They said that it was approaching them there; that 15,000 Russians were to be collected at Sukum Khale, under the command of Baron Rosen, and that they were expected to make a descent at Mamai, about ten miles from the house of Achmet. But the news seemed to inspire no fear. They declared that the country was difficult enough to defy 100,000 Russians.

Much conversation ensued on the severities which had inflamed them against the Czar. Hassan Bey, one of the chiefs, declared "that he only longed to see the power of Russia broken before he died." He had reason. He had once fallen into Russian hands, and they had forced him—an independent and opulent chief-to serve in their ranks for two years as a common soldier! Who can wonder at his wish? Similar insults and barbarities had been inflicted, as they said, upon hundreds of the princes and nobles of Daghestan, whom they had taken prisoners. The consequences are natural. The chief man of Daghestan, Abdallah, was expected, on his return from Constantinople, to combine his countrymen with the Circassians. The Azras, a tribe hitherto in Russian alliance, had been lately irritated by a demand for recruits, and had proposed to join the

general league. One of the chiefs in the very neighbourhood of the Russian camp, and even with one of his sons in the Russian army, had just sent another to the protection of Hassan Bey, the Circassian champion, with a present of a beautiful Georgian charger and fifteen serfs!

The evening was characteristically spent. After dinner they went into the field to see the paces and points of the Georgian steed, and to try the Englishman's telescopes. They then had a horse race, which was won by a son of Achmet, a young Alexander or Achilles. The number of finelooking men was striking. Their lofty stature, great breadth of chest and brawniness of shoulder, thin flanks, small feet, and keen quick eyes, were classic. Excepting the telescopes, the whole description might pass for the evening, and the forms, of a group of Homeric heroes.

But the likeness was to be more complete. After meat and sunset, as they were conversing round the embers of a great wood fire, they heard music from the distant and shaded extremity of the room. This was the performance of an old man and a boy, which raised frequent bursts of laughter. But then came the "bard." This son of Phoebus was a tall, lank, harebrained-looking personage, (their host's brother-in-law,) who had sat apparently dozing by the fire. He sang, in a falsetto voice, a very rapid recitation; and every few minutes three or four others, who sat behind in the shade, contributed a few fine tenor and bass notes, like the swell and fall of an organ. The subject was the charms of an extraordinary beauty of the Zaziokee family, and the rejection of her numerous suitors. The subject had continued in great vogue, though the beauty was married. Thus the fleeting nature of female loveliness receives an immortality from the poet, even among the wild hills of Circassia.

To close this classic evening came supper, about half-past ten, abundant as usual, with wine, or brandy for those whose religious scruples made them delicate on the subject of winebrandy not being within the letter of the law. Such are the niceties of conscience among the Moslem, and even among more civilized personages than the mountaineers of the Euxine pre

tend to be. About midnight mats and bedding were brought in for Hassan Bey, and some eight or ten other chiefs, while they hospitably insisted on the Englishman's occupying the whole divan. The spirit of clanship is as familiar, yet devoted, in Circassia, as once in the Highlands of Scotland. The dependents addressed their chiefs by what we would call their Christian names, and they occasionally even sit down to meals with their sons; but they still remember the distinction. When a chief enters a room, all present make a movement of rising; and if he is an old man they rise entirely, and until he is seated remain standing. A chant of the nightingale among the thickets and gardens outside gave a romantic character to the evening, in the shape of a natural serenade.

The next arrival was of a mountain hero ; a very tall, strongly-built, young man, with an intelligent physiognomy. He was Ali of Jubghe, of the noble sept Kazzek. Ali had done service already in both ways—in outwitting the enemy, and in beating them. Having been taken prisoner by the Russians, they had formed the idea of corrupting him into an agent -offered him a high rank in their ser. vice, and sent him back, well supplied with money, to make his experiments on the national fidelity. But to make assurance doubly sure, they had accompanied him by a spy, to ascertain what he really effected. Ali, on his return, denounced the spy, who was put to death; and when the Russians attacked his mountain station with a large land force and nine vessels, he and his friends, with a couple of small cannon, beat them to the shore with considerable loss. An instance of his personal prowess was recorded: in a rencounter on the Kuban, he had got entangled among a group of Russians, of about twenty; but making good use of his skill in the sabre, and his extraordinary strength, he escaped from them all, and even brought away a sub-officer prisoner. This skirmish cost him seven wounds; but health, and above all, victory, are great healers, and Ali was now only longing for battle again.

The expectation of a Russian attack on the northern districts had raised the population in arms, and they had sent Ali for the Englishman, whom they evidently regarded as a

kind of representative of his country. The party were furnished with horses, and they set forward by the coast. The country seems to be remarkably beautiful-a sort of sea-shore Switzerland. On rounding a small promontory, the fine bay of Mamai opened to them. It was clothed with trees to the water's edge, with wooded hills of various forms rising inland; and behind those a line of peaked or snowclad mountains, part of the great range, a vast barrier to invasion. As the river Terampse, which they had to pass, was too deep at the shore, they went inland for a space, and, following a pathway through the forest, came in sight of a "magnificent landscape-a rich valley, though not of great extent, in the midst of which towered a lofty cone-shaped hill, many of the adjacent hills having the same, or even more striking forms, all clothed with luxuriant forest, while a ridge of snowy peaks glittered in the distance. The valley, stream, and hills, formed one of those masterpieces of nature, which even painting can scarcely re-, present."

They at length arrived at the habitation of Hassan Bey, where they were hospitably entertained as usual. Mention having been made, during the repast, of a great valley in the neighbourhood, they went out to view it, and were repaid by a splendid landscape. To the north west were green hills decked with hamlets, a forest of giant beeches, and a glimpse of the sea, converted at the moment by the setting sun into a sheet of burnished gold. To the south-east lay the valley of the Sutsha, with a silvery stream, luxuriant pastures, vineyards, orchards, and hamlets, girt closely with hills apparently quite as fertile, above which rose others more densely wooded, until walled in by the rugged masses of the central range in their shining mantles of snow.

The ladies of Hassan's family were invisible; but a specimen of their taste in dress was given in one of his children, a lively girl of four years, "very smartly dressed in orange-coloured muslin turban, trousers, and vest, with wide white sleeves gaily flowered with silk and gold threads.'

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Hassan lived in a showy style, and had some European habits. In the evening they had tea with refined sugar, in a service of gilt china, and

the very neighbourhood of the Russian camp, and even with one of his sons in the Russian army, had just sent another to the protection of Hassan Bey, the Circassian champion, with a present of a beautiful Georgian charger and fifteen serfs !

country, Mr Bell found establishments general league. One of the chiefs in even on a larger scale, and not without luxuries. At the house of Achmet, a landowner in the valley of Vardan, a fine scene, closed on the east by high hills, in April still capped with snow, he was received in the "guest-house," which, though but lately finished, had "beautifully wrought mats" hung round the divan; the divan itself being furnished with silk curtains, a bed of a soft mattress bordered with velvet, velvet pillows, a quilted silk coverlet, and, "what was better than all, clean white sheeting."

Next morning he was agreeably surprised by seeing a handsome travelling tea-service taken out of a small chest, and some excellent tea handed round. This service, however, had been found in a Russian prize. Achmet, the master of the house, was rich, and had no less than fifty-two persons in his household.

Next day many chiefs arrived. Every man, and almost every boy, carried a rifle. They talked of war. They said that it was approaching them there; that 15,000 Russians were to be collected at Sukum Khale, under the command of Baron Rosen, and that they were expected to make a descent at Mamai, about ten miles from the house of Achmet. But the news seemed to inspire no fear. They declared that the country was difficult enough to defy 100,000 Russians.

Much conversation ensued on the severities which had inflamed them against the Czar. Hassan Bey, one of the chiefs, declared "that he only longed to see the power of Russia broken before he died." He had reason. He had once fallen into Russian hands, and they had forced him-an independent and opulent chief-to serve in their ranks for two years as a common soldier! Who can wonder at his wish? Similar insults and barbarities had been inflicted, as they said, upon hundreds of the princes and nobles of Daghestan, whom they had taken prisoners. The consequences are natural. The chief man of Daghestan, Abdallah, was expected, on his return from Constantinople, to combine his countrymen with the Circassians. The Azras, a tribe hitherto in Russian alliance, had been lately irritated by a demand for recruits, and had proposed to join the

The evening was characteristically spent. After dinner they went into the field to see the paces and points of the Georgian steed, and to try the Englishman's telescopes. They then had a horse race, which was won by a son of Achmet, a young Alexander or Achilles. The number of finelooking men was striking. Their lofty stature, great breadth of chest and brawniness of shoulder, thin flanks, small feet, and keen quick eyes, were classic. Excepting the telescopes, the whole description might pass for the evening, and the forms, of a group of Homeric heroes.

But the likeness was to be more complete. After meat and sunset, as they were conversing round the embers of a great wood fire, they heard music from the distant and shaded extremity of the room. This was the performance of an old man and a boy, which raised frequent bursts of laughter. But then came the "bard." This son of Phoebus was a tall, lank, harebrained-looking personage, (their host's brother-in-law,) who had sat apparently dozing by the fire. He sang, in a falsetto voice, a very rapid recitation; and every few minutes three or four others, who sat behind in the shade, contributed a few fine tenor and bass notes, like the swell and fall of an organ. The subject was the charms of an extraordinary beauty of the Zaziokee family, and the rejection of her numerous suitors. The subject had continued in great vogue, though the beauty was married. Thus the fleeting nature of female loveliness receives an immortality from the poet, even among the wild hills of Circassia.

To close this classic evening came supper, about half-past ten, abundant as usual, with wine, or brandy for those whose religious scruples made them delicate on the subject of winebrandy not being within the letter of the law. Such are the niceties of conscience among the Moslem, and even among more civilized personages than the mountaineers of the Euxine pre

tend to be. About midnight mats and bedding were brought in for Has. san Bey, and some eight or ten other chiefs, while they hospitably insisted on the Englishman's occupying the whole divan. The spirit of clanship is as familiar, yet devoted, in Circassia, as once in the Highlands of Scotland. The dependents addressed their chiefs by what we would call their Christian names, and they occasionally even sit down to meals with their sons; but they still remember the distinction. When a chief enters a room, all present make a movement of rising; and if he is an old man they rise entirely, and until he is seated remain standing. A chant of the nightingale among the thickets and gardens outside gave a romantic character to the evening, in the shape of a natural serenade. The next arrival was of a mountain hero; a very tall, strongly-built, young man, with an intelligent physiognomy. He was Ali of Jubghe, of the noble sept Kazzek. Ali had done service already in both ways-in outwitting the enemy, and in beating them. Having been taken prisoner by the Russians, they had formed the idea of corrupting him into an agent -offered him a high rank in their ser. vice, and sent him back, well supplied with money, to make his experiments on the national fidelity. But to make assurance doubly sure, they had accompanied him by a spy, to ascertain what he really effected. Ali, on his return, denounced the spy, who was put to death; and when the Russians attacked his mountain station with a large land force and nine vessels, he and his friends, with a couple of small cannon, beat them to the shore with considerable loss. An instance of his personal prowess was recorded in a rencounter on the Kuban, he had got entangled among a group of Russians, of about twenty; but making good use of his skill in the sabre, and his extraordinary strength, he escaped from them all, and even brought away a sub-officer prisoner. This skirmish cost him seven wounds; but health, and above all, victory, are great healers, and Ali was now only longing for battle again.

The expectation of a Russian attack on the northern districts had raised the population in arms, and they had sent Ali for the Englishman, whom they evidently regarded as a

kind of representative of his country. The party were furnished with horses, and they set forward by the coast. The country seems to be remarkably beautiful-a sort of sea-shore Switzerland. On rounding a small promontory, the fine bay of Mamai opened to them. It was clothed with trees to the water's edge, with wooded hills of various forms rising inland; and behind those a line of peaked or snowclad mountains, part of the great range, a vast barrier to invasion. As the river Terampse, which they had to pass, was too deep at the shore, they went inland for a space, and, following a pathway through the forest, came in sight of a "magnificent landscape-a rich valley, though not of great extent, in the midst of which towered a lofty cone-shaped hill, many of the adjacent hills having the same, or even more striking forms, all clothed with luxuriant forest, while a ridge of snowy peaks glittered in the distance. The valley, stream, and hills, formed one of those masterpieces of nature, which even painting can scarcely re-. present."

They at length arrived at the habitation of Hassan Bey, where they were hospitably entertained as usual. Mention having been made, during the repast, of a great valley in the neighbourhood, they went out to view it, and were repaid by a splendid landscape. To the north west were green hills decked with hamlets, a forest of giant beeches, and a glimpse of the sea, converted at the moment by the setting sun into a sheet of burnished gold. To the south-east lay the valley of the Sutsha, with a silvery stream, luxuriant pastures, vineyards, orchards, and hamlets, girt closely with hills apparently quite as fertile, above which rose others more densely wooded, until walled in by the rugged masses of the central range in their shining mantles of snow.

The ladies of Hassan's family were invisible; but a specimen of their taste in dress was given in one of his children, a lively girl of four years, “very smartly dressed in orange-coloured muslin turban, trousers, and vest, with wide white sleeves gaily flowered with silk and gold threads."

Hassan lived in a showy style, and had some European habits. In the evening they had tea with refined sugar, in a service of gilt china, and

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