nearly of the same colour with the eye and stripes as scarcely to be distinguished; in short, the Polyanthos should possess a graceful elegance of form, a richness of colouring, and symmetry of parts, not to be found united in any other flower." A connoisseur in Polyanthoses scarce deigns a look of approbation on a pin-eyed flower, however brilliant its corolla. We think this distinction too refined, having frequently met with these outcasts of the garden that ought to have filled conspicuous situations from the gaiety of their colours. The difference of the Rose and the pin-eyed flower consists in the anthers of the former being fixed near the top of the tube, and the pistil being shorter than the tube, is therefore not seen; whereas in the pin-eyed, the pistil is so long as to reach the top of the tube, and the anthers are attached to the middle of the pipe, which swells out where the anthers are fixed. Polyanthoses are increased by dividing the roots, or by slips, which should be taken off in the autumn. Indeed at this season all the roots should be taken up, divided, and planted into fresh earth; for, if suffered to remain over one or two years, they will degenerate and lose the greater part of their beauty. These favourite flowers of the Spring should be planted about six inches apart, and if about ten or twelve plants, all of the same variety, be placed in each clump, the effect will be more agreeable than when they are either planted singly or in regular beds. The Polyanthos, from its hardy nature, will grow in almost any soil or situation; but to increase the size of the flowers, which forms one of the great beauties of the plant, care should be taken to give them such a mixture of earth as is most adapted to force them. Mr. Hogg, who has grown these flowers in great perfection, says the Polyanthos requires a much greater portion of sandy loam than the Auricula, a very small quantity of rotten dung, and a little leaf mould, peat or heath-earth mixed with the loam. Justice recommends the following proportions: four parts of fine hazelly loam from a pasture, three parts of wellrotted cow-dung or two of leaves that have turned to mould, and one part of fine white sand, well mixed together. Maddock and Emmerton recommend the same compost for the Polyanthos as will be noticed under the Auricula, but with more loam. We recommend a border or situation in the garden for the Polyanthos that is shaded by shrubs from the afternoon sun there let holes be dug about five inches deep, and of the size intended for the clumps, which should be filled up with the compost, and watered well the day before the roots are planted, so that it may not sink below the level of the borders after the plants are put into the earth. It is observed that plants which are raised from seed, flower much better than those taken from old roots; therefore it is desirable to save the seeds annually from the finest plants and as it will be observed that some of the capsules ripen the seed much earlier than others, it is advisable to cut those off and preserve the seed in the capsule, in a shallow drawer, placed in a dry and sunny situation, until the whole is ripe, which is usually found to be about the end of June. This seed should be sown under a wall or hedge, in a north aspect, taking care not to cover it too deep with earth, and the young plants may be transplanted about the same time in the following year, giving them gentle waterings in dry seasons. Some florists prefer keeping the seed out of the ground until December, and then sowing it in boxes, which are placed in situations to receive the morning sun only, and particularly when the young plants appear, as one whole day's sun would entirely destroy them. Snails and slugs commit great depredations on the Polyanthos plants during the spring months; they should therefore be carefully examined early in the morning, at the time these depredators make havock. But a more dangerous enemy often attacks this plant during the summer months, and from its minuteness often destroys a whole plantation before the cause is ascertained. This is the little red spider Acarus, which forms its web on the under side of the leaves, where it multiplies with such rapidity as soon to devour and poison the whole plant, although the insect itself is scarcely visible without a magnifying glass. The first effect of its attack is observed by the leaves becoming yellow and spotted. When this is observed, the plants affected should be taken up, and soaked for two or three hours in a strong infusion of tobacco-water, and then replanted in a fresh soil, or compost, but by no means in the same situation, as there would be danger of there being many of these little spiders left on the ground, which would immediately return to the plants. Maddock observes that "the red spider seldom attacks such plants as are in a state of vigour, or when the weather is cold and wet; it generally commences its depredations in the early part of summer, and continues them as long as the heat and dryness of the weather favour its existence: the juices also of the plants being then more viscous and saccharine, afford it more suitable nourishment other season." than at any VIOLET. Viola odorata. Natural Order Campanaceæ. Cisti et Violea, Juss. A Genus of the Pentandria Monogynia Class. Now gentle gales, Fanning their odoriferous wings, dispense Native perfumes, and whisper whence they stole Let the beauteous Violet MILTON. Be planted, which, with purple and with gold And that which creeps pale-coloured on the ground. THE Violet that so beautifully embroiders the banks of our hedge-rows, and so sweetly perfumes the morning air of the Spring, is scarcely less a favourite than the Rose, which has, by universal consent, been made the emblem of Beauty, leaving the no less admirable quality of Modesty to be represented by the Violet, which is thus made to speak by the pen of Desmartes, in the garland of Julia de Rambouillet Franche d'ambition, je me cache sous l'herbe, |