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rough angular stones, which constitute the pride of the parish, and are brought from a great distance, and with considerable cost. Upon my wishing them at the devil one day, which I never failed to do as often as I had to contend with them, my

driver turned round and said, “ Do not wish them there: “ do you know that each of those fine stones cost four good “ groschen?”

In Prussia, robberies very seldom happen: the Prussians only pilfer in the shape of extortion,

“ And for a pistol they present a bill.”

Having seen many Englishmen travel through their country with a moveable arsenal of arms in their carriages, united to the received opinion that suicide prevails more in England than in any other country, they conclude that the preparation is not against robbers, but to furnish their owner with a choice of deaths, if his ennui is not dissipated by roving

My adventures upon the road were few, and not worthy of relation, except that my driver was very fond of quitting the main road for every short cut, in which we were frequently obliged, carriage and all, to spring as well as we could over a small ditch; having repeatedly warned him that we should be overturned, at last my prediction was verified, the

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wheels were uppermost, and we lay sprawling in the road : as soon as I could look around me I found the driver in great agony, and concluded that he had at least shattered a rib or a leg: but the misfortune was a much greater one in his estimation, he had broken his pipe, which lay in the road by the side of scattered provisions and trunks ; he lamented his loss bitterly, and frequently, as we were replacing matters, apostrophized the remains of this natural and inestimable source of German comfort. We frequently passed through the most beautiful avenues of majestic oak, stately lindens, and graceful beech and birch trees. I found the inns very poor: at Pinnow I slept upon a bed of straw. In the best room are generally the depot of the Sunday gowns, the best crockery, two or three filthy straw beds, a stove of black Dutch tiles, one or two corn chests, a chair with a broken back, jars of butter: adjoining there is generally a room for the daughter or upper servant of the host, who reclines her sweet person upon a bed placed upon a corn-bin, and surrounded by a winterstock of potatoes. If a traveller fasten the door of his bedroom he will be under the necessity of rising to open it, twenty times after he is in bed, that the master or mistress of the house may have access to something or another which is deposited in his chamber.

The winter was now rapidly setting in, and in every posthouse the stoves were warmed: before one of them some pea

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sant children were reposing upon forms, and their mother standing with her back against it, fast asleep. The peasants erect their ovens, which are made of clay, about 'seven feet high, in the shape of a dome, at the extremity of their orchards, removed as far as possible from any thatch. All the roads and bye-lanes in Prussia are abundantly supplied with legible and intelligent directing posts, representing a negro's head, with large white eyes, and a pig tail, whilst two long stiff arms point the wanderer on his way. The want of this species of attention to travellers in England is severely felt. It is scarcely necessary for me to observe that the universal language of Prussia is German.

The garrison towns are numerous, at which the traveller is obliged to furnish the officer of the guard with his name, condition, and motive of travelling. The soldiers looked to great advantage; they have a favourite, and much admired manæuvre, of forming hollow squares by sections, which at present is confined to the Prussian service; and by means of a hollow curve, at the bottom of the barrel of the Prussian musket, leading into the pan, through a large touch-hole, no priming is necessary, or rather the loading primes, by which several motions are saved. With this improvement, and a heavy ramrod, an expert Prussian soldier, even with Prussian powder, far inferior to that of England, can load and fire twelve times in one minute. A soldier who had not long been



enlisted, performed these motions in my presence ten times in that period by my watch.

At Konigberg, as I was sitting down to dinner, a portly soldier, in the Prussian uniform, opened the door, and addressed me in English. With much address and respect, under the venial pretence of my not having written my name legibly at the barrier, he introduced himself to me, and enabled me very soon to discover that he was one of those infatuated Irishmen, who having incurred the displeasure of the British government, had been plucked from a station of respectability, and the bosom of a beloved family, exiled from his country, and doomed to wear the habit, and endure the discipline of a Prussian soldier for ten wretched years, five of which he had already survived. The poor fellow acknowledged the fatal delusion which had thus torn him from all that was dear to him, and reduced him to the humiliation of gladly receiving a dollar from a stranger.

Between Gruneberg and Freyenwalde I passed the Oder, which flows to the walls of Olmutz, rendered eminently fami liar to the memory by the cruel captivity of La Fayette, and the spirit of British generosity which restored him and his lovely Marchioness to light and liberty.

Upon our leaving Freyenwalde, we ploughed our way

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through the dark forests and trackless sands of Brandenbourg, the latter of which Frederic the Great highly valued as a national barrier, capable of impeding and embarrassing an approaching enemy. Of their depth and dreariness no one can judge, but those who have waded through them: we quitted them with great joy to roll merrily along over a noble new royal road, of about ten English miles in length, lined with sapling lindens; and, early on the eighth day from my leaving Dantzig, I passed the gate of the wall which surrounds Berlin, and with forty-one ducats, discharged my companion at the Hotel de Russie.

Having refreshed myself, I sallied into the Linden Walk, which is very broad, is formed of triple rows of the graceful and umbrageous tree from which it receives its name, and is situated in the centre of the street, having carriage roads on each side, from which it is protected by a handsome line of granite posts connected by bars of iron, and illuminated at night by large reflecting lamps, suspended over the centre by cords, stretched from corresponding supporters of wrought iron : its length is about an English mile, and presents at one end the rich portico of the marble opera-house and the palace, and at the other the celebrated Brandenbourg gate, designed by Monsieur Langhans from the Propylium of Athens, and raised in 1780. This superb monument of tasteful architecture is a stone colonnade, of a light reddish-yellow colour,

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