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of Poland, models of ships, heavy carvings in wood, and great dingy pictures. The Vistula, the largest and longest river in Poland, after springing from mount Crapach, on the confines of Silesia, and crossing Poland and Prussia, washes the walls of Dantzig, and falls into the Baltic. Upon this river a stranger cannot fail being struck with the singular appearance of the Polish grain-boats, in shape resembling a canoe, many

of which are eighty feet long, by fourteen broad, without any deck, and have a single elastic mast, tapering to the top, fifty, and even sixty, feet high, upon which they fasten a small light sail that is capable of being raised, or depressed, so as to catch the wind, above the undulating heights of the shores of the Vistula. We saw several store-houses of salt: the only salt merchant in the Prussian dominions is the King, who has the monopoly. The exportations of corn from this city are amazing; and it may justly be considered as the grain depot of Europe. The exportation of grain, for the preceding year, amounted to thirty-four thousand one hundred and forty-nine lasts; a last being equal to eighty-four Winchester bushels : that of the year before to fifty-two thousand four hundred and sixteen. The people appear to be at length reconciled to the loss of their hanseatic sovereignty, and, having no remedy, submit themselves without repining to the Prussian sceptre. Mirabeau, one of the most brilliant orators of his age, said, “ that the Dantzickers, who, according to appearances, sup

posed kings were hobgoblins, were so enraptured to meet

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“ with one who did not eat their children, that, in the excess of their enthusiasm, they were willing to put themselves, “ without restraint, under the Prussian government.”

On a Sunday we visited the theatre, a handsome rotunda, where we saw, the great favourite of the Germans, the tragedy of Mary Queen of Scots, between whom, and the sanguinary Elizabeth, the author effected an interview: there was no after-piece as usual. The form of the theatre before the curtain, was three parts of a circle; and the scenery, dresses, and decorations, were all handsome. The grand drop scene, used instead of a curtain, was sprinkled with gigantic heads, and had. a very strange and whimsical appearance. Nothing could exceed the polite and profound attention paid to the business of the stage: if any one of the audience only whispered rather loudly, all eyes were turned towards him, and a buz of general disapprobation made him silent. In the box, next to that in which I sat, was a lady of fashion, remarkably deformed; in age, I should suppose, touching the frontier of desperation, dressed in a white robe, and a garland of artificial flowers; to attract more notice, she was knitting a rich silk purse: the whole of the party exchanged frequent glances with her; but, alas! had she known what was passing between the eye and the mind, our homage would not have proved very acceptable.

In Dantzig, every thing partakes of that petty spirit which

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is too often engendered by traffic amongst small communities of mercantile men. Heaven protect the being who visits this city without a commercial commission! As we were walking by the Bourse, we requested a German Jew, who had the appearance of a gentleman, to shew us the way to a commercial house to get some money exchanged; upon which he offered to accompany us. “ We cannot, Sir, think of troubling “ you: if you will only direct us, it will be sufficient,” said my

German friend and companion. “ Oh! Gentlemen," replied the descendant of Abraham, “ I beg you will not “ mention it; you will of course pay me for my trouble, and

I shall be happy to attend you.” ”

Having parted with my friend, who proceeded to Berlin, I went to Fare Wasser, with a view of embarking for Copenhagen, which would have considerably curtailed my journey to Husum; but the wind being contrary, and blowing a hurricane, and several English captains, who were there, assuring me that it frequently continued so for three weeks and a month together, after spending three cheerless days in hopes that a change might take place, I returned to Dantzig, where, without knowing a human being, for this city was not originally included in our route, I presented myself at the counting-house of an elderly Englishman, a denizen of Dantzig, and, in the presence of a host of clerks, detailed my story, and requested that he would be so obliging as to permit one of



them, who spoke English, to attend me a few minutes to the post-house, that I might endeavour to overtake my friends. The hoary merchant, with an immoveable countenance, coldly looked at me, and briefly replied, “ It is our post day;" and, without saying another word, returned to his accompts. It reminded me of Gadshill and the Carrier, in the first part of Henry the Fourth :

Gad. I pray thee, lend me thy lantern, to see my gelding in the stable. “ Car. Lend thee my lantern, quotha! Marry, I'll see thee hanged first.”

This Englishman had grown old in the traffic of Dantzig, and the generous spirit of his country had been indurated into the selfishness of accumulation.

The little Swede was now in the lowest state of depreciation : the post-master thought her unworthy of being drawn by a Prussian prancer, and absolutely refused to put a horse into the shafts; at the same time he offered me a ducat, that is; nine shillings and sixpence, for her. I would have set fire to her, sooner than that he should have had her. The god of gold seemed to have made this spot his favourite temple, to have constituted a bag of corn his chosen altar, and to have recorded his oracles in a ledger: the ramparts of the town seem preserved only to repel hospitality and generosity. The Dantzickers keep a cash account of civilities, and never indulge in festivity without resorting to calculation. A calculating countenance

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under a little bob-wig, shining brushed cocked-hat that has seen good service, a brown coat, waistcoat and breeches of the same colour, worsted stockings, a pair of shining little silver buckles, and an ivory-headed cane, denote the thrifty Dantzicker: the very beggar in the streets seems to expect a double proportion of bounty for his misfortune, and for the trouble of asking relief. As I was purchasing some articles at a grocer's for my journey, his wife held a little child in her arms, not old enough to speak, to whom I gave a pear, and presently after 1 presented him with a gulden, a little coin, which he griped, apparently with the same instinct that would induce a young bear to rifle a honey jar, and dropped the fruit. The little grocer seemed much pleased with his son's preference; and, in German, as well as I could understand him, exclaimed,

that he would make a brave tradesman.”


In this place, where there were so many


own countrymen settled, accident led me to the civilities of a polite and amiable young Dutchman, who had not staid long enough in Dantzig to lose every

liberal sentiment.

How strange,” said I, that amongst the residents of this place you alone “ should wish to serve an unfortunate solitary Englishman; " and that, too, whilst our respective countries are at war !" “ It is true, our countries are at war,” said he, in good English; “ but what is that to us? every man whom I can serve is

my countryman.

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