No. 16.

Pillar or Pole Rose complete.

distinction that would be generally acknowledged. By Pillar Roses we would understand the erect-growing vigorous kinds: by Climbing Roses, those of twining and pendulous growth which are usually still more vigorous than the former. These do not make the best Pillar Roses, nor do the former make the best climbers, though each is often planted to fill the purpose of the other.

Climbing Roses are usually required for covering walls, fences, arbours, rustic arches, and the like. The first object sought is to cover well and quickly a given space. To effect this, pruning and training are directed. The system of pruning is but a slight modification of that just described: they require, perhaps, rather less of it. The first season that they are placed in the situation they are intended to occupy, each shoot should be shortened in to two or three eyes. The result will be a few vigorous shoots, sometimes extending to an extraordinary length, which will depend much on the season, the situation, soil, and attention paid to them; also on the habit of the variety. Thus the plant becomes

established. With regard to covering the space, remember, close pruning will produce a few vigorous shoots; long pruning a greater number of less vigour. Which are wanted? However the case may be, prune accordingly. Be it remarked, close pruning is not advisable, considered in reference to flowering; for the object here, as in Pillar Roses, is masses of bloom.

4. Weeping Roses.-Weeping Roses are the kinds of vigorous and pendulous growth worked on stems of four feet or upwards.

No. 17 gives a fair specimen of one of these the first year after budding. This plant has two buds, which are certainly prejudicial, not only from the obstacles they present to the perfecting of our design, but because they have been placed too far apart. As with Pillar and Climbing, so with Weeping Roses, the shoots should be cut in closely the first time of pruning, to induce a vigorous growth. In this case, the lower bud has given birth to the strongest and best shoots: we therefore remove the upper one, cutting the stem away just above the lower

No. 17.

junction a.

Weeping Rose, Stage 1.

Having removed the upper bud, we thin out the two shoots shewn by the single lines, and shorten the others to the dark shadowing. Hence, shoots push vigorously; and the habit of the varieties being pendulous, they soon reach the ground.

No. 18 shews the growth of the tree the first year after it has been pruned with the view of forming a Weeper. We continue the operation. We here find it advisable to shorten closer a a, the shoots left by the last year's pruning. In the next place, we cut out the shoots shewn by the single lines, and shorten the others a few inches only. From their drooping position the flow of the sap is equalized, and the eyes will break regularly nearly their whole length. Single blooms will occa

No. 18.

Weeping Rose, Stage 2.

sionally be produced from them, and the following year these short bloom-bearing branches may be spurred; that is, pruned to about two eyes. Henceforth there is but little difficulty in bringing the tree to perfection. The main shoots should not be shortened till they reach the ground: prune the laterals only; when flowers are produced all along the branches from the head of the tree to the ground, forming a beautiful half-globe one mass of flower.

About the second or third year it is necessary to attach a hoop to the head of Weeping Roses, as shewn in No. 19, to keep the branches free from injury by the action of the wind, and to assist in arranging them properly.

I have sometimes seen wire-work, in the form of an umbrella, placed under the head of a tree intended to be trained as a Weeper. The shoots are drawn through this and tied down, and thus a drooping form is given to the tree. Sometimes, also, the shoots are tied into the stem with bast or tar-twine, or fastened down to pegs driven into the ground.

No. 19.

Weeping Rose, complete.

No. 19 shews a Weeping Rose of full size, pruned and trained.

After a Rose tree, of whatever form or kind, is put into the desired shape, supposing it to be healthy and vigorous, we prune so as to increase its size every successive year. This must be done with the vigorous growing kinds, or they are overpruned. It should be done with the moderate growers; for as the roots extend their growth, and the stem increases in size, the plant is capable of supporting a larger head, and perfecting a greater quantity of flowers. This increase of size must be accomplished by thinning. Thin out well then; leaving shoots at the farthest limit of the plant that you can, to allow of its being well furnished from

base to summit.

In pruning Roses that have attained to some age, it may be necessary to remove an old branch or two occasionally, to keep the head from becoming straggling or ill-shapen. As soon as any branch shews symptoms of decline, it should also be cut out. The saw will be found useful here, as well as in removing small shoots, which, from their position, it may be difficult to reach with the pruning-knife; also for cutting away dead branches, which should never be done with the knife, because it takes away the edge. In all cases where the saw is used, the cut should be made nearly close, and afterward pared down with the pruning-knife.

A few remarks on old plants which have been neglected in the early stages of growth may not be misplaced here. Such are often met with. Usually the fault (Div. I.)

has been, the fear of pruning too much: the branches have consequently become straggling, and the tree unsightly. To deal with these, the best plan is, to cut back some of the branches almost close to the base of the head, either main branches or yearling shoots, one here and there in different places. These will produce shoots near home, and, by pruning such close the following year, the head is brought into a more compact form.

No. 20.

Attempt to recover an old plant that has suffered from neglect, or too little pruning.

But

We have here a plant (No. 20), the form of which, we think, none will be bold enough to advocate. The flowers are produced just at the top of the branches, and numerous naked unsightly branches appear near the base of the head. we must remodel this tree, and, in attempting this, we first cut the main branches off at a a. But, says the tyro, there are no buds left visible on the stumps. True; but the practised hand knows well that they exist there, although not visible. It is our business to develope them. If we shorten in the surrounding branches tolerably close, leaving only that part of the tree which is shown by the dark shading, we shall succeed in doing this: the eyes, too, will most likely shoot forth with uncommon vigour. We view this as we should a young tree: our first aim is to form it aright. This we may often do in one year, by the help of disbudding; without it, two years will be required.

Trees that have become weakly are generally much improved by close pruning; so are those small growing kinds which flower so constantly that it is rare to see