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regret that except the Viennese ? Even while-in some cases it is good for him- devotes itself entirely to entertaining and if he admires its spacious public build- but the children and the aged cannot assisting foreigners within the country ings-of a style of architecture too heavy stand it. While there are many children of the Czechoslovaks. They did not to appeal to the discriminating-any man in both Germany and Austria five years know I was coming, but they meet every of imagination must remember that they of age and over, there are noticeably train with motor cars, in which they conwere built by the sweat and blood of the few under that age. A little food is vey the astonished strangers to rooms subject races cringing under the iron heel already reaching the Austrians from the constantly reserved at the best hotels for of the villainous old aristocrats wbo ruled Allies, but the stream is yet a thin one, this purpose. A very agreeable Czech Austria-Hungary

principally on account of the difficulties officer who spoke English was placed at Vienna to-day is dirty and depressing of transportation after steamers land the my disposal to use whenever I wanted Dirt and newspapers are blown through supplies at European ports.

him as a guide to show me about the city. the streets by gusty winds which swirl At the invitation of the Czechoslovak This is a characteristic instance of the germs into the faces of the inhabitants, Government, I went from Vienna to energy and purpose with which the new most of whose constitutions are now too Prague. It was announced that the train Czechoslovak Republic is beginning its weak to resist even a decrepit microbe. which I took would be the last one for two

In some respects the rights to Vienna has always relied for food and weeks, for all the frontiers of Czecho- the frontiers which the Czechs and the other supplies on outlying districts of slovakia were to be closed for a fortnight Slovaks are claiming are certainly open Austria or on neighboring countries, from while the Austrian money in the new Re- to question (although these people are which she can get next to nothing to-day. public was stamped by the Czechoslovak such pleasant hosts that any one who has The Czechs will send her neither coal Government, and thus converted into a visited their capital hates to question nor food, needing both for themselves. more valuable currency. But when we their right to anything they may happen The same is true of the Galicians. Ger- reached the last station before the fron- to want). But it is certainly questionable, many has little to send to Austria, and tier the Austrian gendarmes announced if for their own future security and the constant strikes as well as the coal short- that the train would be sent back to peace of Europe it is wise, for the Czechs age interfere with sending that. In a Vienna. This was done out of spite, as a and Slovaks to remain in possession of a previous article, which dealt primarily sort of reprisal against the Czechs for de

sort of reprisal against the Czechs for de- city like Pressburg, only about thirtywith conditions along the Rhine and in ciding to close the frontier. Thus several three miles from Vienna, and with a populaoccupied Germany, I reported that there hundred unfortunate men and women tion overwhelmingly Teutonic. In general was no noticeable shortage of coal or who had bought tickets for stations in the Czechs are following the plan of sugar in those regions. But as for sugar, Czechoslovakia were sent back to Vienna. claiming almost anything to which they there is very little of it either in Austria I was more lucky. At the Vienna station have a ghost of a right, and perhaps for or in the Germany east of the Rhine; a Czech railway official had asked me if them this is the best policy, since they and as for coal, while there seems to be the C on the brassard which I wore meant will certainly get a good deal of what enough to warm all the houses and hotels 6 courier.”

they claim. At any rate, the Czechoin most of Germany, there is certainly a “No; it means * correspondent,'” I slovaks are full of admirable qualities. great shortage of it in Austria. In Austria said.

The whole nation is “ upon its toes you have this vicious circle: no coal-no Oh, that's all the same,” he remarked. every minute. The new Government is transportation; no transportation - no “If any one asks you, you tell them it well organized, and it is pushing its way coal; no transportation and no coal-no means courier.” So saying, he pasted on among other nations with a very well food.

the door of my compartment a slip of managed and carefully considered propaIt is reported that a certain distin- paper on which was printed “ Courier ganda. Unquestionably the Czechs are guished representative of the American in Czech spelling, and left me, remarking the most energetic, the most efficient, Government went to Vienna, put up at “Let no one enter this compartment; it and the most intensely patriotic people the best and most expensive hotel, and is reserved for you."

in Europe east of the Rhine to-day. As left the city after twenty-four hours with Well, when I got off the train at the such they will deserve the important the breezy remark, “Oh, I guess Vienna's station on the border to see what could part they seem likely to play in the all right.” If he had cared to stroll a be done, the conductor seized my arm Middle Europe of the future. little distance from the lobby of his hotel, and whispered:

I doubt if any city in the world has as he would have taken away quite a differ- " Come into this little baggage car. It many photographs and busts of President ent impression. Of course there is good is going on to Prague. As an American Wilson in its shop windows as Prague. enough food to be had at the best hotels courier you can go.

In every case the likeness of the Ameriif you can afford to pay for it. But what With the enjoyment of one who is on can President is side by side with a like percentage of the population of New the inside looking out I watched a mob ness of the George Washington of CzechoYork, for example, can afford to eat at of men who swarmed about the baggage slovakia-President Masaryk. the Biltmore even in a period of normal car all vociferously declaring that they In the streets of Prague you see hunprices ?

were couriers and had important busi- dreds of soldiers in Italian, French, or At the present price of exchange, an ness in Prague.

Austrian uniforms, as well as those wearAustrian crown is worth about five cents “I never saw so many couriers in my ing the attractive gray uniform of the in American money. But a crown is still life," said the baggage-master. After much new Republic. But all these soldiers are a crown to an Austrian. Wages have argument and inspection of credentials, Czechs. They are men who fought for doubled, or even trebled, since 1914, but about-twelve of the alleged couriers were the independence of Czechoslovakia with prices have increased tenfold or more. I allowed to enter. The rest of the crowd, the French and Italian armies, and thouknew of an Austrian who had to get at except a Czech Princess, who came with sands of them allowed themselves to be least a small quantity of milk, by hook or us, were sent back to Vienna, howling with captured by the Allies when in Austrian crook, to save the life of his child. After natural rage and disappointment.

uniform in order to fight against the hunting through half the shops of Vienna, The Bohemian countryside is as easy to Austrians later. he found a can of condensed milk. He look at as any I have ever seen. Industry Prague is suffering for want of food, got it for one hundred and sixty crowns mingles with agriculture, factory chim- but Prague is not in so bad a plight as (about eight dollars in our money, even neys literally rising from the midst of Vienna. In Vienna the pathos lies, not at the present low exchange)! Another orchards, and both seem to be flourish- in what you see, but in what you do not man, who decided he must have a chicken, ing. Up to date Bohemia has been a see-markets with nothing to sell but a got a small one for two hundred and sort of oasis in the midst of a desert of few carrots and cabbages, orphan asylums twenty crowns !

Bolshevism and industrial barrenness. empty because the orphans have died. Young children and old people in Aus- I was met at the station in Prague by Hungary is reported to be in as bad tria have died by thousands. A healthy representatives of a department of the condition physically as Austria, but politiadult can stand a meager diet for a good Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs which cally Hungary is the most unenviable nation in Europe. Today the Hungarians The probable union of Austrians with are without friends. The Austrians at Germans is at least a natural union. But, least can count on the Germans as friends, whatever the future of the Teutons may but the Hungarians can count on no one. be, let us be glad that the old conglomer

ation of peoples held together by force which was called the Austro-Hungarian Empire is ended.

Paris, March 25.




A enlightenment pofiti

his stern fairness but to his humaneness VISITOR from Mars who sought ists bitterly opposed to their fellow-countrymenall of

and his wit. The swift dialogues between cal problems on the earth from the news- ing in common a certain Irish outlook the Speaker and the Irish Nationalists papers would get the impression that and Irish sympathy which was separate often brightened the House. There was Irishmen were a fierce, relentless race, from every other feeling in the House. an occasion where an English Liberal, that the English were at once stolid, However ruthlessly they attacked one forsaking his Home Rule principles on stupid, and brutal, and that individuals another, they nevertheless felt the call receipt of his knighthood, immediately from the two countries whenever they of the blood. Sir Edward Carson, with changed to the opposite benches, and this came in contact hissed with anger and rasping voice, outstretched_forefinger, on the last day of the session. He rose at the slightest provocation were likely to mordant words, was the great Irish enemy to put a question on that last day. Jerry strike each other. Hostility, it would seem, in Parliament of Home Rule aspirations. Mac Veagh sprang up from among the must breathe through the nostrils of His searing sentences on the one hand,

His searing sentences on the one hand, Nationalists before the recent Liberal Englishmen and Irishmen whenever they and, on the other, the flaming words that could

get a word and put one of those meet, either individually or in groups. have been hurled back at him, could never audacious points of order which are not They would seem to be continually at have left any doubt of the hatred between points of order at all, and in which the each other's throats. The utterances of the two parties. Yet Sir Edward Carson Irishmen had more freedom than any the stronger politicians on each side are was an Irishman. There came an occasion others in the House.“Mr. Speaker," he largely responsible for this picture. It when

young Willie Redmond, the son of his cried, “is it in order that a member who has an amazing sense of unreality for chief opponent, made his maiden speech rats and gets a knighthood for it should those who know Ireland and England, in the House of Commons. It was Sir rise to put a question from his new place and this despite the political fight between Edward Carson who was the first man to on the last day of the session ? Is it in order the two sides.

the table, and, turning to face his leading that he should change his side and join the The truth is that, generally speaking, enemy, he paid a glowing tribute to the Conservative party at this late stage ?" the Irish hate the English politically, but young Irishman's first speech, a tribute The Speaker rose in his place, a picture get on very well indeed with them per- which must have warmed the elder Red- of dignity. “It is never too late to mend,” sonally, and the English are filled with mond's heart. And the tribute was cheered he said. scorn of Irish politics but appreciate per by all the Englishmen present as heartily An unexpected scene which might have haps more intensely than any other peo as it was by the Irishmen themselves. had a painful conclusion was averted late ple the glamour of Irish personality and There is a communal spirit in the one night by the collaboration of the the intimate charm of Irish men and House of Commons, and all the House, Speaker with an English member. The women. Thus it is that Englishmen and even the Conservatives, strange as it may occasion was during the last half-hour of Irishmen are both astonished at the seem, had an affection for, even a pride the sitting on the motion for the adjournothers' mischievous and dangerous politi- in, these Irishmen who filled a section by ment, which gives opportunity for the cal beliefs. Just now Irish politics have themselves, who conformed to the rules discussion of any topic whatever. A young entered on another phase, but it is only a of the House with punctiliousness, who Irish member just back from a tour in continuation of the attitude of mind on steadily refused any honors or emolu- Australia made some remarks which both sides.

ment under the British Government, who might have been construed into an attack It is difficult to imagine that Irish and fought with persistence, and who never on the monarch, and the House sank into English leaders are ever friendly together. could be placated. Moreover, there were a silence which was obviously the prelude If one went by the published denuncia- many happy and close friendships between to a political storm in which the name of tions, one would conceive malignant silence the Irishmen and the British members, the King would have been freely bandied or malignant words whenever people of and it is certain that the Irishmen felt about. It was a situation which in many the two countries came within range of themselves an integral and, indeed, as respects would have been disastrous, for one another. I have traveled over Ireland they were, a very important part of that the Commons is omnipotent in the connot only in times of quietude but also assembly, so mixed and yet in certain duct of the business of the country. A dozen during two general elections, and I spent fundamentals possessed of a remarkable fiery spirits sprang to their feet to speak five years of my life in the gallery of the oneness of spirit. The Irishmen had their for and against as soon as the

young memBritish House of Commons, and have prejudices, formed against a good many ber sat down. The responsible Irish leadseen intensive fighting by the various Liberals and a good many Conservatives, ers wanted nothing less than the damaging sections of Irishmen on behalf of their prejudices which were reciprocal and scene which was about to ensue. The beliefs; and there is perhaps some illu- had little or nothing to do with politics.

had little or nothing to do with politics. Speaker rose to the occasion. He blandly mination afforded by sidelights on the The Speaker of the House of Commons, ignored all the fire-eaters and called on a moods and the activities of Englishmen Mr. Lowther, a British aristocrat with a Yorkshire representative, a burly man and Irishmen when they are brought to mellow humor and a kindly tolerance with red hair and aquiline nose and a gether for social purposes, for work, or

which arose from appreciation of many sense of humor which was concealed befor discussion.

sides of life, athletics as well as litera- hind bland eyes and a drawling voice. The atmosphere of the House of Com. ture, his farming as well as his inter- “ Mr. Speaker,” he said, “ I wish to dimons is a thing not easily understood by est in social experiments, had a warm rect the attention of the House to a matthose who are not familiar with it through place in his heart for the Irishmen, and ter which is of the utmost importance at actual experience. The Irish up till they on their part respected and liked

they on their part respected and liked the present moment.” All the House sank recently were divided into several sec- him. Many a time have I heard him call again to the intensest silence for the contions-a little group revolting against the down with stern words some raucous mem. tinuation of the drama. “I feel," said leadership of Mr. Redmond, the Red- bers of his own party who were attack- the member, " that I can be doing no mondites themselves diverse in tempera- ing the Irish. I have heard the Irish greater service to this House or to the ment, and the north country Irish Union- leaders pay generous tribute not only to country than by the subject which I intend to deal with at this moment.” The I had been a blood relation. I was sitting them workingwomen, and their fervor for House was at fever pitch. Even the whis- down having a drink with them within Willie Redmond is a thing to be remempers in the galleries were silenced.. “ The three minutes. They offered to help me bered. With a group of committeemen subject I wish to deal with," he said, " is in every possible way. Despite their com- we emerged from the hotel to make the

all-important one of rivers. I wish to parative youth, they were among the our way through to the carriage, which call attention to the extreme value of most distinguished political leaders and was to be in the middle of the prorivers to the human race. There is, for orators the British Empire, but were cession. It was a great struggle for instance, the Mississippi, which traverses also the most generous, good-hearted fel- Willie Redmond to get there, and, once a great part of North America, renowned lows I have ever met in any country. I he was in the carriage, it was detained by for its beauty, and bringing all kinds of had an even more apt illustration of the strong Irish arms which held on to the facilities to the people of the country in personal confidence in an Englishman sides, and while efforts were being made the shape of trade and commerce. The two or three nights later. Mr. John Red- by the organizers to detach the enthusiAmazon, on the other hand, is a huge mond was addressing a huge meeting in asts one middle-aged woman climbed into body of water which I desire to compare the Rotunda in Dublin. After the meet- the carriage and kissed Willie Redmond with the little stream, also a river, run- ing, when scores were crowding around amid the plaudits of thousands. While ning at the back of my garden in York:- the Irish leader, I was introduced to him we were on our way through the crowded shire. They are alike in this, that the and we exchanged a sentence or two. He streets I stood up to get a better view of pollution in them comes from practically must have suddenly realized that I, as a scenes which will be forever memorable, the same source--decaying leaves and the stranger, could be of use to him. He had and presently Willie Redmond took hold crumbling of the banks of clay or earth to pass up an aisle through the audience of my arm and pulled me down. “We or sand." The breathless House of Com- towards the street and was beset not shall have the stones soon, now," he said. mons had by this time grasped the mean- merely by those who wished to greet him True it was. We were getting into the ing of the orator, and from a silence but also by those desiring favors. How thick of hostile territory, and volleys of which was almost painful was beginning was he to get through the throng? He missiles from time to time were launched to ripple. The ripple developed into a took me by the arm,

Walk with me to at us. Every one took it good-humoredly roar. The tension was at an end. The the street,” he said. As we passed along and saw nothing in the least strange Yorkshire member continued talking through the thrusting people he was busy about the demonstration. until eleven o'clock, when the sitting showing to me with upraised finger the Mr. O'Brien won the election, and then came to an automatic close, and the various points of interest in the hall, its went out to the west of Ireland to County Speaker rose and said, “This House is architectural features, and explained to Mayo, where he lived, and where he had now adjourned.” I shall never forget the me how and why I should visit it at my determined to fight another constituency laughter at the performance of the York- leisure. His attention to me was so close against the Redmondites. His headquarshire member, laughter in which the Irish and courteous that it really left him little ters were at Westport, where he and his were among the foremost.

opportunity for more than a passing wife were extremely popular. I was presThe most vehement of Irish National- hand-shake and a word of greeting to all ent on the night he arrived fresh from ists sometimes comes to the assistance of those who were thronging forward, and his triumph in Cork. The little town hall an English Minister whom he likes. At he reached his carriage in the street with- had been cleared of seats, and he was four o'clock one morning, after a strenu- out undue delay.

taken there by an excited and jubilant ous all-night sitting, Mr. John Burns, I was in Cork during the famous indi- crowd in order to speak to them and to then the President of the Local Govern- vidual election contest between Willie receive their congratulations. The hall ment Board, desired to get through with- Redmond on the one side and William was filled with men who stood with their out opposition one or two routine depart O'Brien on the other. It will be remem- sticks at attention and with their eyes mental bills which could be passed right bered that Mr. O'Brien with a few follow. bright and fervent. Mr. O'Brien, heavily away so long as no voice was raised ers broke away from the Redmondites bearded, with shaggy eyebrows and long, against them. One of these bills, I remem- and fought them in several constituencies wavy hair, looked like a prophet of ber, was called “The Removal of Offensive with varying success. Cork was Mr. old, as with hands clasped behind his Matter Bill," which dealt with the collec- O'Brien's stronghold. It was an election back he delivered himself of criticisms of tion of street refuse. Mr. Burns made I shall never forget, because of the scenes the Redmondite leaders. “John Dillon an appeal to the tired House to give him so vivacious to the eye of an Englishman is coming here on Sunday. Boys, what the bill. A foppish Conservative member, accustomed to the more placid contests of will


do with him ?” “ We'll shoot unable to make any mark in ordinary his native land. Two hotels provided the him, sir!" shouted voices amid a roar. Of debate, chose to obstruct this bill, as he respective headquarters, and there were course they did not mean it. It was in the had done other bills, by the simple words, territories which were largely given over midst of Mr. O'Brien's intensive scorn " I object.” The Conservative leader ap- to the support of each candidate. There and the furious enthusiasm among the pealed to him. “I object,” persisted the were demonstrations nearly every night, audience that a stray Redmondite who young fop. Up sprang Mr. MacVeagh bands and banners, regiments of men with had got in at the back of the hall venfrom the Irish benches. “Why does the sticks held over their shoulders or carried tured a mild word of dissent. Instantly honorable member object? I know it is upright, regiments of women as enthusi- the whole gathering turned on the man. the Removal of Offensive Matter Bill, astic as men, a line of blazing tar barrels The meeting was held up. It seemed to but there is nothing personal in it." borne on planks which were mounted on me from the platform that there was a

Though I was a Liberal Home-Ruler the shoulders of four stalwart voters. As mountain of men rearing itself at the in politics, I was attached to a famous an Englishman, and therefore a stranger back near the doors amid tremendous Conservative paper as a descriptive and observer, I (with others) was received tumult. The Redmondite intruder was writer, and when in 1910 I went to Ireland hospitably by both parties and treated dealt with, and disappeared, goodness to do a series of sketches I was doubtful with much personal kindness.

knows how or in what shape, and then as to whether the name of the paper I I was with Willie Redmond one night the audience came back and stood at represented would be a handicap to me in his hotel preparatory to going out with attention once more, and faced Mr. in my work. I found nothing of the kind. him in one of his processions. “We are O'Brien, who had remained a stern and I went into the Gresham Hotel, in Sack- going through O'Brien's district to-night,” immovable observer of the whole. When ville Street, Dublin, and saw two of the he said. I learned then that it was, so to all was quiet again; he delivered himself. most brilliant of the younger generation speak, a point of honor for one side to "I am glad,” he said, "to find that you of Ireland, T. M. Kettle and Joe Devlin, make a tour of the other side's localities, know how to deal with a bully when you sitting together in the lounge. I went up not so much with a view to persuade or find one." and introduced myself and told them impress the opponents as to show they Mr. O'Brien was a perfectly delightful straight who and what I was, and I could were not afraid of them. Two thousand man personally, as kindly and soft as an not have had a more cordial reception if women were outside the hotel, most of Irish gentleman always is. He went out


(5) Underwood & Underwood

THE COAT OF ARMS ON A CAPTURED GERMAN SUBMARINE NOW IN THE BROOKLYN NAVY YARD Note the legend "Gott mit uns.”—God with us—a characteristic piece of German arrogance that was not omitted even from these piratical craft that were

engaged in violating the laws both of God and of man

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(C) Underwood & Underwood



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