would stop, stretch out two fingers, and cry, "Two dollars!" And much astonished they would be if I refused their demand.

My host seemed to be better off than most of his neighbours, though his prosperous circumstances did not appear to be the result of labour, for I never beheld beings more lazy than this family were. They lay almost the whole day, stretched at full length in their hut, half naked, by turns eating and sleeping, and it was evidently an awful exertion for them to move. This indolence is characteristic of them all. The person with whom I lodged owned three huts, which were prettily situated in a wood at the foot of a hill. One of these huts was used as a sitting and sleeping-room, another as a kitchen and eating-room, and the third for various other purposes. On a shelf against the wall, in the first mentioned of these huts, were ranged some calabashes, which served as water-jars; others were used as spit-boxes, or spittoons. Though many of the customs and superstitions of the olden time are wearing out, these receptacles for saliva are still considered indispensable, and are much valued on account of the old belief that, if their contents fall into the hands of an enemy, they will acquire the power of averting sickness and other evils from the producer.

On awaking in the morning, their first act was to smoke one or two long pipes, which were handed about to the women as well as to the men. They were fond of telling long stories to each other, which seemed to amuse them all very much, to judge by the laughter these narrations occasioned. Sometimes they amused themselves by singing; but their music was most monotonous, and seemed confined to two or three notes. In the evening, when their lamp was lighted, they generally played some round game at cards, which kept them awake for an hour or two.

These islanders were often tattooed all over, some even upon the tongue, but most of them on the legs, arms, and chest. I fell in unexpectedly in this part of the island with a countryman from Gothenburg, who had resided here nineteen years with his Kanak wife and his halfcaste children. He had almost forgotten his own language, though not his native land, of which the surrounding hills, he said, often put him in mind.

I met with a pleasant surprise in the course of my next excursion. While I was filling my cases with plants on one of the higher hills at a considerable distance from the town, I suddenly heard the well-remembered tones of one of Strauss's waltzes. The music came from a villa near the foot of the hill. On descending to it, after I had finished my botanical errand in the higher altitudes, I found myself in the midst of a distinguished circle. The villa, which belonged to the governor of the surrounding rich district, was a large building, with a roof projecting so far beyond the wall as to preserve a cool space close to the house. It was situated near a majestic waterfall, and in the midst of the most bewitching scenery. A number of persons were gathered round the house listening by turns to a royal band playing modern European music, and to their own national airs, sung by eight islanders, among whom were two women. These performers-the females with flowers in their dark hair-were seated on a mat before the principal door, and held in their right hands calabashes, so arranged that they looked not unlike tambours de basque, on which they struck with their left hands, while March-VOL. CIX. NO. CCCCXXXV.

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they chanted a melancholy ditty, the words of which, I was told, were historical recollections of their own country.

We found at this villa the Crown-Prince Alexander, his brother, and several ladies and gentlemen of rank. His royal highness was a tall, slender youth, very dark in complexion, but not otherwise ill-looking, and with lively, pleasant manners. He received us kindly, notwithstanding the very unceremonious manner in which we had presented ourselves. Dancing was going on in the shade, and though there was not the same attention to etiquette that prevails in our ball-rooms, especially in a circle graced by the presence of royalty—and the mirth was rather exuberant for our ideas of decorum-it was evident that they all enjoyed themselves exceedingly. The crown-prince, who, having visited London and Paris, had learned English and French, and who had previously been educated at Mr. Crook's academy in the island, promenaded with us in the garden, where we had a tolerably large allowance of champagne and cigars. Dinner was at length announced; and we found the viands spread out on the green sward, under the shade of some fine trees, while mats were placed for the guests to sit on-a primitive arrangement, which was rather trying to our stiff bones. The entertainment consisted of fish and fowl, stews and ragouts, in partaking of which fingers did ample service. Bread, plates, knives, and forks, were provided for our use; the rest of the party, even the court ladies, dispensing with these articles of luxury. During the banquet the heights around became covered with spectators, who threw wreaths of fern-leaves to the guests, who again crowned themselves with them amidst copious libations, like the ancient Greeks and Romans. When the repast was ended, the party amused themselves by swinging, and we left them thus occupied.

We met his royal highness repeatedly afterwards, and found that he knew how to assume a more dignified deportment than he had evinced at the gay meeting in the vale of Nuuanu.

I shall mention three other entertainments of a more official nature, to give you a better idea of this place as it now is. The first was at the American consul's; here we met the prince and everybody of distinction, the merchants, missionaries, and other foreigners, even the master of our hotel, who was not a Kanak. The consul's garden was brilliantly illuminated, a splendid supper was served, and later in the evening there was dancing; but that could not be commenced until the missionaries had gone, for they considered a polka, a galop, or a waltz, as sinful in the extreme, and all artifices of his Satanic Majesty to mislead and corrupt the hearts of weak mankind. But when they had departed, the musicians struck up the favourite dances, and the fashionables of Honolulu indulged their wicked propensities.

The next grand occasion was our presentation to his Majesty King Kamehameha III., which was conducted with all due ceremony. On the outside of the palace stood the king's life guards, in red uniforms, who presented arms the moment a general of infantry, who came to meet us, appeared on the stairs. After passing through a suite of lofty, wellfurnished apartments, we were ushered into the audience-chamber, where the king, surrounded by the princes, ministers, palace officials, and several governors and chieftains, received us. Among the notabilities present

I remarked the master of ceremonies, Paki, a warrior of such an extraordinary height and size, that the other chiefs, none of whom were at all insignificant in stature, looked like children by his side. The minister of education, Armstrong, was a sharp-looking little man with a pleasant

countenance.

His majesty had the usual dark complexion and inert expression of countenance. His face and his languid manner during the ceremony seemed to say, "Would that you would take your departure, and leave me in peace!" He wore a handsome uniform of white pantaloons embroidered with gold, and a blue coat covered with gold and orders. The ministers and chiefs were likewise stiff with gold from top to toe, and sported ribbons and orders. Over the throne on which the king sat, suffering from the effects of an accident, were to be seen the arms of the country. The walls were adorned with portraits of the king and queen, of Louis Philippe, and other potentates; the room was tastefully furnished, and on the tables lay handsomely bound books and good engravings. After one or two queries addressed by his majesty to our captain had been interpreted by Armstrong, we commenced filing past him with the usual obeisances; and we were then taken to another apartment, filled also with royal portraits, and where there were some vases of Thorwaldsen's, and a large book, in which we were requested to enter our names. This finished the affair, and the king and ourselves were liberated from all further ceremonials.

The day on which we were to sail we were honoured by a visit from royalty on board. The queen, who was attended by numerous maids of honour, was a rather stout but good-looking woman. She was dressed in white, and her principal lady in waiting, Madame Paki, in bright yellow. We had a concert on deck for them, and afterwards they partook of a déjeuner in the captain's cabin. And now that I have given you a summary of what I myself saw in this group of islands, I shall add a short account of their history, social and political.

The kingdom consists of eight inhabited islands. Oahu is the seat of government, but Hawaji, or Owhyhee, is the largest island, and is well known from its two volcanoes. All the islands are volcanic; they are covered with luxuriant vegetation, but are poor in native animals. I never remember having anywhere seen so few birds or insects. The climate is very fine. A north-east wind prevails for about nine months in the year, and during that time the temperature is almost always the same. During the three winter months the south and west winds are prevalent, and these are accompanied by a good deal of rain.

We remarked, that in the native language of the Sandwich Islanders almost every syllable ended in a vowel, and also that the letters K and T, Land R, are often confounded. For instance, Kamehameha is often called Tamehameha, and Honolulu, Honoruru, which makes it difficult to spell their proper names correctly. Their language and many old traditions give evidence that the earliest inhabitants of these islands, as well as of the other Polynesian islands, are of the Malay race, and it is probable that some of these people originally landed in the Sandwich Islands after having struggled over the ocean in their frail canoes. It is extraordinary that a number of their traditions also betray a Hebrew origin. The belief in the Deluge is preserved here, and the ark is said to have

stranded on MAUNA REA. They believe that no one existed n the beginning except the gods. Hawaji was produced from an enormous egg, which a bird that could speak laid upon the sea. There is a story in their Sagus very much resembling the history of Joseph and his brethren, and another of a person who was swallowed by a fish and afterwards cast up.

Their religion was full of terrors, punishments in this world and dark threats for that which is to come. Their belief in a future state consisted in this: that the souls of common men passed to Po-the abode of nightwhere they were either at once annihilated or were consumed by the gods; while the souls of the chiefs, on the contrary, were carried by the god Kaonohilekala-the pupil of the sun's eye-to a place in heaven, where they were to live to all eternity. Physical power only was worshipped, and every one had his own favourite god, in whom he put his faith both during peace and war. Gods were to be found for everything; gods of the sharks, the volcanoes, the different seasons of the year. The most celebrated among their gods were Popa, Kiha, and Lono, together with the goddess Pele, the most terrible of all, whose dwelling was in the volcano Kilanea, and whose movements occasioned earthquakes, thunder, and lightning; the locks of whose hair flared like flames in the wind, and whose favour was courted with valuable offerings. The images of the evil deities were the most honoured. Many ceremonies attended the choice of the tree from which these gods were to be hewn, and when they were felled either human beings or swine were offered as sacrifices.

Human sacrifices were generally made on great occasions, and it is said that UMI, after a victory, offered up eighty of his bravest warriors. The victims were generally selected beforehand by the priests, but kept in entire ignorance of their doom until the blow was suddenly struck. The priesthood was hereditary, and the priests were as numerous as they were powerful. Every chief had his family priest, and the leading priests were those who had the custody of the national gods. Their persons were sacred, their aid purchased with rich bribes, and they alone had the privilege of practising magic. They had invented a way of strengthening their power, namely, declaring anything Tabu. Tabu signified holy, and was applied to the thing which was set aside for the use of the gods or the priests. Sandal wood, of which a large quantity is exported, was declared tabu when they began to become thin, and then no one, under pain of death, dared touch them. Even the property of the king and the highest chiefs could be declared tabu, and was thenceforth protected from every pillage but that of the priests. A more crafty mode of bringing every one under the yoke of the priesthood could not have been devised. At a later period, lay members of the community also began to make use of tabu, principally with a view of preserving their property, and the system became at length so oppressive, that fear and silence reigned throughout the country.

Polygamy, in its most extended scale, existed in the Sandwich Islands, and no other marriage ceremony was required than that the bridegroom should throw a handkerchief over the bride, and thus espouse her. Morality was at a low ebb among them, therefore have the laws recently promulgated by the Christian rulers principally been applicable to the

state of their morals, and, with the exception of the craving for strong drink, perhaps nothing has caused so much trouble to reform as the utter want of morality and propriety among the women. To exchange names was a great proof of friendship; and when a person of high rank—for instance a king-bestowed a portion of his clothing on an inferior, that was a sign that the great man took the other under his protection. It is certain that cannibalism prevailed formerly among the aborigines. An intoxicating drink, called Ava, was much used, the frightful effects of which was sometimes a disease resembling the leprosy. Parents were at liberty to destroy their children if they chose; infanticide was, therefore, not unfrequent; and while their dogs and swine were well taken care of, and well fed, their children were often neglected and starved. The position of the woman in the lower classes was exceedingly abject. She dared not eat in the presence of her husband, her food was of the scantiest, and her labour of the hardest. When a chief died there was a general wailing over the island-which rang from dale to dale and hill to hill; beacon-fires were lighted, hair was torn out, pieces of flesh were cut from the body-some even put out their eyes in testimony of their grief. A sort of despair seemed to overwhelm the people, and throw all things into confusion; disorder prevailed everywhere, and drunkenness and all manner of vice had unchecked sway. The skull and legs of the deceased were often preserved, the rest of the body was either buried or burned.

Their social condition was as miserable as their moral and religious state was savage and shocking. The inhabitants were divided into two distinct classes-the one the idle or consuming, the other the working members of the community. The king had power over the lives, the freedom, and the property of his subjects. He was the judge in all causes, the disposer of everything. Among the landholders, the stronger often expelled the weaker from his possessions. There was no security for life and property, therefore indolence and apathy became the characteristics of the people. Rank was inherited from the female side, for this reason: that" one's mother was always known, but it was impossible to be sure of one's father." The lower classes were held in the most abject subjection by the higher class; they dared not approach them unbidden, or pass near their house. Servants, and other inferiors, had to fall on their knees on meeting a chief, and if a Kanak's canoe happened to come in the way of one belonging to a great man, the former was run down and sunk without the least pity. Everything aimed at impressing the bulk of the people with the idea that the monarch and his chiefs were of a higher order of beings than themselves.

This was the state of the islands when discovered by Cook in 1778, and named by him the Sandwich Islands, after Lord Sandwich. There is reason to believe, however, that the islands had been visited by Europeans at a much earlier period. When Cook made his appearance he was at first believed to be a messenger from their god Lono; they received him with all manner of ceremonies as a celestial being, and loaded his ship with provisions. But when quarrels afterwards ensued between his crew and the natives, the visit ended, as is well known, by the murder of Cook in 1779. The unfavourable idea of the inhabitants to which this unfortunate occurrence gave rise, prevented for a long time any Europeans or Americans from visiting these islands.