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CONVENT OF SAN MARTINO.

103

sequence of an attack once made upon the convent by a band of brigands, who, dressed in the habit of pilgrims, obtained admission, and plundered the cell of the abbot, the sacristy, and other places were treasures were preserved. The hall is open to the celebrated flight of stairs, all marble, and protected by a balustrade of stalactite, ascending to a noble gallery, where the most refreshing coolness is maintained by the flowing of water from a fountain playing amidst a collection of the choicest aquatic plants. This exquisite and costly piece of architecture was constructed by Gregory the Great, the founder of the monastery, and is held in such esteem as a work of art, that "de Scalis" is the uniform affix to the name of the Monasterio di San Martino, amongst the Sicilians.

Few are admitted to tread the silent cloisters of San Martino, who are not connected in some degree with the noble families of Sicily: the pontificals in which the service is performed bespeak, if not conspicuous piety, remarkable wealth: many valuable paintings by Caravaggio and Morealese, or Pietro Novelli, adorn the walls: the Pix, which is of pure gold, is studded with precious stones: numerous statues of saints are placed around the walls, and "rear'd on pedestal'd heights," and here the

:

"Pealing organ's heard to blow

To the full-voiced quire below."

The organ here is considered the finest in Sicily; and the reputation of the monks for musical excellence, has long maintained pre-eminence. Hospitality forms a predominant feature also in the character of the Benedictines of San Martino de Scalis, and the refined manners of the brethren enhance considerably the pleasure of the reception but it must also be noticed in this slight and general sketch, that females, no matter what their rank, beauty, or genius, are not permitted to come within the convent walls, the chapel alone being open to them. Besides a charity-school, over which the brotherhood preside, institutions of less merit belong to the Convent-a billiard-room, a species of theatre, and a museum. In the last of these is shown the identical [cup which the Athenian philosopher drained of its hemlock. The library, a light, beautiful, and well-ventilated apartment, is adorned with Corinthian columns, of walnut-wood, richly carved, the ceiling decorated with stuccoed work, and the floor covered with glazed tiles. An illuminated missal, of the tenth century, and in the Flemish style, is perhaps the most interesting literary curiosity in this cabinet, in which there is also an excellent collection of manuscripts.

CASTRO-GIOVANNI, THE ANCIENT ENNA.

SICILY.

"Not that fair field

Of Enna, where Proserpine gathering flowers,
Herself a fairer flower, by gloomy Dis

Was gather'd, which cost Ceres all that pain
To seek her through the world."

MILTON.

THIS classic spot, the centre of the island, is as much admired for the beauty and grandeur of its position, as for the early associations with which it is connected. Placed on a plateau, or table-land, fully five miles in circumference, although, at the distance of a few leagues, it appears reduced to a pinnacle, Castro-Giovanni stands elevated four thousand feet above the level of the sea. The approaches on all sides are steep and difficult, from the moment when the fertile valleys at the mountain-foot, and the green banks of the Salsa (Hymera) are quitted, until the cloud-wrapt summit of Old Enna is reached. The ascent is not merely long and laborious, but frequently accompanied with danger; yet is it often and more conveniently accomplished by the tourist seated steadily on his mule, than by his trusting to the apparently more secure mode of pedestrianism. The cliffs are broken and picturesque, standing out in large fragments that catch broad masses of light, and shed a glorious brilliancy all over the strongly-marked features of the mountain; and from the projecting brows of every beetling cliff, a prospect of the most exhilarating character is commanded. Fertility, richness, plenty, are spread out upon the broad plain of Sicily-the fairest sky that hangs over this earth smiles upon the labours of the field beneath, while hills of the most graceful forms rise suddenly from the level area, and mark the masses of the distant, giant hills, that encircle Sicily with their tiny shadows. Amidst the savage rocks that hang over the pathway, and occasionally threaten the bold traveller, numerous caverns occur, increasing much the terrors of the scene; and lofty as is the site of this venerable plain, streams of the clearest and most delicious water here gush from the rocks, refreshing the very atmosphere, and ministering to the wants of the mountaineers, who dwell amidst the sounds of their falling from rock to rock. A further supply is furnished by a small lake in the immediate vicinity of the village, the charms of which were not unknown to topographers in early times. Diodorus describes the Lake of Enna in terms of admiration: "its banks are sprinkled with violets, and other aromatic flowers, which very sensibly impregnate the air." The castle appears to be of Roman origin; and although it has long survived the glory of its founders, is now at last itself capitulating to the attacks of time. The Sicilian authorities, however, have restored, and continue to

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