stars, who walk forth in the great space of creation, not one, not one lives or shines for herself!'

And thus God has written upon the flower that sweetens the air, upon the breeze that rocks that flower on its stem, upon the rain-drops which swell the mighty river, upon the dew-drop that refreshes the smallest sprig of moss that rears its head in the desert, upon the ocean that rocks every swimmer in its chambers, upon every pencilled shell that sleeps in the caverns of the deep, as well as upon the mighty sun, which warms and cheers the millions of creatures that live in its light-upon all hath He written, 'None of us liveth to himself.'

And if you will read this lesson in characters still more distinct and striking, you will go to the garden of Gethsemane, and hear the Redeemér in prayer, while the angel of God strengthens him. You will read it on the hill of Calvary, where a voice, that might be the concentrated voice of the whole universe of God, proclaims that the highest noblest deed which the Infinite can do, is to do good to others to live not to himself!

A VISIT TO OLD CALABAR.

tions of black slime, from low water mark covered with mangrove aquatic shrubs and reeds, the marks on them showing the height to which the river rises in the rainy season; they are intersected in every direction by deep creeks, and teem with animal life; alligators are numerous, some of these ungainly looking reptiles we saw sunning themselves on the mud, and were much amused at the clumsy manner in which they scuttled through the slime, and then popped into the water. I had some difficulty at first in making them out; I could scarce believe they were living creatures till I saw them move; they seemed fallen trees, weather-beaten, rotten, and covered with ooze. Almost the only tree on these islands and the river banks is the foul marsh-loving mangrove (Rizophora gymnorhiza); numbers of monkeys and parrots lodge among their branches. The sameness of the scenery during the run of ninety miles was great; nothing but a dense green hedge of mangrove and reeds on each hand, only diversified by the contracting or widening of the river. At Duke Town, off which we anchored, the river is about three miles broad; the bank on which the town stands seems twenty or thirty feet above the water. We came to anchor at half-past seven P.M., being the only vessel that has ever got from the breakers outside

the bar to the anchorage in one tide; we were generally going eleven knots (miles) an hour. Found at anchor a Dutch galliot and eight large English vessels, some of them six or seven hundred tons burden; they were housed in, that is, had a reed-thatched bamboo roof built over them, to protect the crew as well as the deck and sides of the obliged to lie in the river five or six months to dispose of vessel. This is a very necessary precaution, as they are their goods and obtain a cargo of palm oil in exchange. These penthouses gave the ships a huge and clumsy appearance.

AMONG the many praiseworthy exertions made by the British government for the suppression of the slave-trade, and consequently for the improvement of the long-neglected people of Africa, not the least interesting are the relations entered into with the kings and chiefs for the promotion of commerce and civilisation. Several of these sable potentates, in consideration of a trifling annual gift, have agreed to use their influence, which in many cases is considerable, to put an end to the demoralising traffic in slaves, which has for so long a period been carried on, and Our commander sent to all the English ships, requestto direct the attention of their subjects to a more legitimate ing the masters and supercargoes would meet him next morning, to be present at the ratification of the treaty for kind of commerce. The frith or estuary of Old Calabar, the abolition of the slave trade in the dominions of King falling into the Bight of Biafra, forms the entrance to Eyamba. This treaty was entered into on 6th December, some of the most populous regions of Central Africa; and 1841, by Lieut. Blount, of her Majesty's steam-vessel 'Pluto,' public attention has of late been directed to this quarter and the two Calabar kings Eyamba and Eyo (separately), as a point whence missionary enterprise could be advan- and was to the following effect:-From the date of the treaty, there shall be an entire cessation and extinction for tageously prosecuted. With this view, and chiefly through ever, throughout the territory of King Eyamba (or Eyo), the instrumentality of the United Secession Church, three and wherever his influence can extend, of the sale or exthousand pounds have been raised in the course of a few port of slaves or other persons whatever, to be removed months; a vessel has been generously furnished by Mr from off his territory into any foreign island, country, or Jamieson of Liverpool for carrying out the missionaries, dominion; and that King Eyamba will make proclamation and a law prohibiting all his subjects, or persons within who lately sailed from that port; and from the king and his jurisdiction, to sell any slave or slaves, &c., or aid, abet, chiefs of Calabar having sent to the missionary station at or assist such sale, under penalty of severe punishment and Jamaica inviting a few of their number to visit Africa, there stopping the trade of the river. King Eyamba further agrees, is every reason to entertain high hopes of their success. that should any slave vessel be in the river, he will inform The following account of a visit paid by her Majesty's ship any of her British Majesty's vessels that may be in the neighbourhood. And in consideration of this concession, &c. Sealark, in May 1844, to the region of Old Calabar, for the and the loss of revenue incurred, King Eyamba shall receive purpose of confirming the negotiations entered into with annually, for five years, goods to the amount of 2000 dolthe chiefs of the district regarding the abolition of the slave- lars Spanish' (£416:13:4d.) upon a certificate being trade, has been furnished us by an officer connected with received that the said laws have been enforced, which shall the vessel, and we have no doubt that it will prove interest-be signed by King Eyamba and the masters, &c., of any ing to our readers, as giving a faithful view of the habits British vessel in the river at the time. Signed, King Eyamba; and customs of the people.

W. S. Blount.'

The part we had to play was to get the certificate signed, then deliver the presents. The certificate ran thus:-I, King Eyamba, of the River Old Calabar, do hereby certify, that no slave trade has, to the best of my knowledge and belief, existed there, or been carried on in my territory, since the formal ratification of the treaty for the abolition thereof, and the delivery of the first annual gift on the 18th day of May, 1844.' This was signed by the king and attested by the masters and supercargoes in the river. The ratification was a long affair; when condensed it ran thus:

Captain Beecroft, governor of the Island of Fernando Po, came on board on the 15th May, having kindly offered to act as pilot. Next evening we anchored off the bar of the Old Calabar river, as we could not cross it till we had the tide in our favour, being only three fathoms deep at low water, with a heavy surf breaking over it at all times. Next morning, at half-past ten A.M., the tide being with us, we weighed, and passed the bar about one o'clock. We had a very pleasant run up the river, which was ten miles broad at its mouth, but soon widened to about forty, with twoRatification of treaty between her Majesty the Queen of large islands cutting its channel, besides a huge mangrove swamp and a sandbank, dry at half ebb-James' island, 18 miles by 8; Parrot, 13 by 6; both nearly marshes; the swamp 24 by 13 miles. Both it and the islands are collec

England and King Eyamba of Old Calabar, for abolition of the slave trade, agreed on 6th December, 1844.-The treaty entered into between her Majesty the Queen of England and King Eyamba, is hereby ratified and confirmed by

the lash-they had been trying to make their escape; I gantly laid out. The commander's gig was sent for Eyambegged him to pardon them, which he did, unchaining them ba, and the pinnace for his nobles. At two P.M. most of at once; the poor wretches crawled towards me, and would the foreigners from the merchantmen had arrived; the have kissed my feet. At the threshold I saw again, what royal party were somewhat later. The cause was explained I had before observed at the doors of the great men,' by one of the young gentlemen: he had gone on shore, namely, a human skull embedded in the clay, so as only taking my servant, a marine, with him, to assist Eyamba to leave the crown exposed. I asked why it was so placed to rig in the new dress sent among the presents. We were -Enemy head for trampe trampee;' I wished to get it, much amused with the relation of the poor man's efforts to but it was not to be had for love or money. Eyo's dinner don the different articles of apparel; the unmentionables table was nicely laid out, everything clean and neat. 'troubled him full sore,' and as they were rather long, he Among the improvements on our former dinner apparatus could not keep them from dangling about his feet; the we had silver forks, and napkins were laid beside the plates; stockings nearly beat him; he tugged at them till the perwe had, however, no ladies to wait on us, but neatly dressed spiration dropped from his forehead; the shoes were still men, and I must give them their due, they managed much worse; my servant said he could as easily have shod a horse better than the females. The chop was of the same descrip- as force shoes on such uncouth representatives of feet, and tion as Eyamba's, but better cooked; the wines, &c. good, when he did thrust them on, they almost crippled the poor and everything was conducted with decorum-no crowding man. When Eyamba stepped on board there was a geneinto the room. The only persons who sat down with the ral smile-he looked so odd in his unaccustomed toggery; 'whites' were Eyo and his son, the latter a good-looking on his head rested the theatrical crown; his coat, garyouth fourteen years of age, dressed in the English fashion, nished with two immense epaulettes, was morone coloured, who spoke English pretty well. The Creek Town gentlemen and richly braided with silver lace; his waistcoat, of the had a separate table; they seemed, like their brethren old-fashioned cut, with flaps hanging nearly to his knees, of Duke Town, to bolt their food like boas. Our commander was of white satin, flowered with silver; his trousers left soon, but one of the lieutenants and myself stayed, as white, with a broad band of silver lace down the outer did most of the civilians. We soon found out that one of seams; large silver buckles in his shoes, &c.; his black the organs played two or three sets of quadrilles and some face, nearly obscured by the crown and shirt-collars, and waltz tunes; so we commenced dancing, much to the his dingy paws dingle-dangling as if they did not belong amusement and delight of the lily-whites. It was a strange to him. Such was the figure presented to our view; you scene, Europeans in the wilds of Africa, dancing to the may be sure 'Jack' had a good laugh about it. At dinsound of operatic music, in the palace of the Negro king; ner the poor king looked as hopelessly uncomfortable as ay! and surrounded with the products of European in- mortal could be. He however managed to do ample jusdustry and enterprise. Thus commerce ever bears with it tice to the good things before him; as for his folks, I exthe germs of civilisation, and, as in the present case, com- pected they would hurt themselves, so voraciously did they mencing at the fountain-head, soon tinctures the whole feed. They were all very moderate in their liquor. On stream. At Eyo's request I visited his daughter, who had our commander proposing Eyamba's health, he rose and eye no good.' The female part of the establishment con- said- Me plenty too mosh please; me drinkee alla you sisted of a number of reed-built mud-plastered huts; at goot helt.' He soon after gave- Victoria Queen England, the door of one of these pig-sty looking habitations sat the goot-a-health-me too mosh like she, she goot for Calabar object of my visit. On examination, I found she was afflict--she make plenty trade,' &c. The senior master in the ed with cataract in both eyes. Mamma came while I was river proposed Commander G.'s health, passing a high present, and seemed most anxious to know my opinion, eulogium on his courtesy, and thanking him in the name peering into my face as if she could there read my thoughts of all the traders for the ready manner he had entered into -any other method of getting at them she had not, as their views regarding the differences between the kings. she no sabbee Engles.' I went through the other huts to have a peep at the royal dames-I can't say I admired them. I was told that I was much honoured in being allowed to see the royal seraglio.

The merchants and traders having represented that, on account of a quarrel between Eyamba and Eyo, war might ensue, to the great detriment of trade, the commander had a long conversation with each of them. He told them that the queen of England considered them as equals, and treated them as such, but she would not allow war between them, as it would destroy trade; he pointed out how much better it would be for relations, as they were, to settle their differences amicably, rather than engage in warfare where both would be losers. They ridiculed the idea of war; Eyambo, however, would not admit Eyo's equality; he said, Victoria queen for England, Eyamba king for Calabar-no two queen for England, no two king for Calabar; but no make-e war palaver. Eyo my nephew; I hab him sister for wife-plenty people Duke Town hab Creek Town wife, plenty Creek Town man hab Duke Town woman-we all one. No! no make-e war palaver-you think we fool?' Eyamba being from the senior branch of the royal family, has the most extensive territorial possessions, but is by no means so rich as Eyo, of whom he is very jealous. The latter, by his intelligence, enterprise, and good faith, has become very rich, and is respected by both European and African. The frequenters of the river say that, in the event of a war, Eyamba's most powerful adherents would go over to Eyo, who would be come sole king of Calabar. The kings would not dine together, so we were obliged to give two dinner parties. The little craft presented a very gay appearance. Along the larboard (left) side of the quarterdeck stretched a table of sufficient length to dine forty persons; it was very ele

Early on the following morning we went on shore, to witness the ceremony of 'Grand Egbo.' It was got up-by order of Eyamba for our special entertainment. There is among the Calabarese an institution resembling somewhat the German secret tribunal; it is called Egbo; of course it is only possible to arrive at a general sort of idea of it. None but freemen can be members; they can become so by purchase, and, like freemasonry, different grades are attained by extra payments, conjoined, it seems, with some requisitions as to the knowledge of the duties inculcated. However, there must be some persons Egbo by birth, as Eyamba is hereditarily at its head. The initiated are bound, on pain of death, to keep its secrets and obey its behests. This mysterious order is said to be instituted to keep down the slaves, who are more numerous than the free, but it also seems to take cognisance of crimes among the latter, even recovering debts from unwilling debtors. On that account, some of the traders frequenting the river become members of the society. One of our friends was a member of the highest rank; he told me it cost him eighty pounds sterling to become so, but did not think he had thrown away his money, as the more prompt payment of debts was secured, besides all confiscations and fines were divided among the members according to their grade-he could or would not give me further information. Egbo may be said to be the supreme tribunal, as capital punishment cannot be inflicted without its concurrence. I suppose Egbo, like most institutions of the kind, from a small beginning, gradually wrested the power from the rulers, till at last it became paramount; it is mixed up with their superstitions, as its punishments are said to be inflicted by devils from the bush.' To be present at the ceremony, the people came from all parts of the town, to the square in front of the palavar house.

In the balcony of the iron-palace' sat the royal dames; they consider deity. In all villages they have houses set the favourite queen wore a crown, and was streaked with apart to guard and consecrate them; these houses are called clay and whitewash, as were most of the other ladies, this gree-gree, that is, sacred; the place where a body is buried constituting their full dress; they were looking with great becomes 'gree-gree;' and, in general, all the effects of the interest on the ridiculous scene transacting below. There deceased are placed on his grave, so one sees basins, pots Eyamba-wearing his crown, his neck hung with chains, and pans, utensils of various kinds, tobacco-pipes, &c. &c., his shoulders covered with handkerchiefs and ribands, and decaying near the public ways; however, I have generally his legs clad with small silver bells, similar to those worn ohserved, that the article had some flaw or rent, so I supby morris-dancers, in his right hand holding a long gold- posed they palmed off their useless ware. But the horrid headed staff, in his left a living fowl-was hobbling up and part remains to be told; on the death of any person of condown, wriggling himself about like an eel, his ribands sequence, human victims are immolated in numbers corfluttering, bells jingle-jangling, and his overloaded head responding to the rank and riches of the deceased. On bob-bobbing as if it intended to part company from his the decease of a king (chief), immense numbers are sacripursy body-it reminded me of the painful attempt at ficed. These dreadful rites still linger, though they are frisking made by a pampered, over-fed, asthmatic, wheezing now of rare occurrence, and they are always, if possible, pug-dog. His brother was even more absurdly attired: concealed from Englishmen. I asked Eyo why he allowed his white hat (a common English one) covered with such evil customs to continue. He replied, 'not possible ribands, which hung down so as almost to hide his face; make ol' man forget bad, makee young good.' He is doing his whole person bedecked with handkerchiefs and ribands, all he can to put down the grosser superstitions. and from the after part of his dress proceeded a prolonga- After Egbo, one of the medicos started with me on an tion several yards long, somewhat like a cock's tail, also exploratory ramble; we found the town was a mere concovered with bits of riband; this appendage, as he caper- catenation of mud huts with narrow lanes between. It is ed about, vibrated at a tremendous rate; his legs were very difficult to ascertain the population of an African hung with bells, and his fingers covered with rings. Seve- town, so many are huddled together in one hut, and the huts ral others-Egbo Jack, Archibung Duke, Cobbing Offiung, so close together; Duketown is supposed to contain about &c., were also in masquerade, and took a prominent share 8000, and Creektown 4000 inhabitants. Some of the Calain the gambols. In front of the king two men with pos- bar ladies were even pleasing; their figures were in general terior prolongations, like that of the king's brother, having unexceptionable, no stays to disfigure nature's handiwork. bows fitted with arrows, went bounding about, bending The Calabar taste is similar to that of the Moors, the their bows as if about to launch an arrow, now on this stouter the lady the more she is admired, so that mammas side, now on that; between them and the king a man bore confine their daughters in darkness, and fatten them up on his shoulders what seemed a young tree torn up by the with fufoŭ (yam paste), whitewashing them, it is said, to roots, (Druidical?) which he was very careful to keep steady, close the pores, that they may the sooner get into good as, were he to let it fall, his life would be the forfeit. What condition. They looked very strange when bedaubed in this the tree was typical of, I could not discover. The fall of the manner; their blackness will show, and, besides, the whitegold-headed staff carried by the king would cost his majesty wash soon gets rubbed; they were mightily indignant his life. Several persons arrayed in a kind of rough stuff, when I told them they had a hole in their dress, pointing almost like bear-skin, with hideous black masks, and affairs to one of these abrasions. The court ladies, and those of like the thrums of a mop hanging about their heads, and the great folks, have brass wire wound round the leg, tufts of them concealing their hands and feet, were spring-fitting close at the ankle but increasing in size as it ing about driving the crowd before them-these were ascends till it reaches near the knee; it is very heavy, and 'bush devils,' but it being only sham Egbo, 'no Egbo for when first put on (done when they are young) it is only true,' they had not their scourges, &c. A fellow answer-kept from wounding the ankle by great attention and care; ing to our fool, was everywhere twisting and turning him- it is well wrapped round with cloth. self into all sorts of shapes; he had the fool's cap and bauble quite correct (I suppose English). Imagine a background of seminude black savages in wondering mass, in the midst of them the elegant and picturesque figures I have described, jigging about the square to the sound of horns and tum-tums (a kind of drums)-it was too ridiculous! we gave way to repeated bursts of laughter. After this elegant pantomine had continued some time, all at once Eyamba gave a halloo, and instantly the crowd dispersed so ended grand Egbo, the meaning thereof I could not fathom. When Egbo is sounded in earnest, all are obliged to betake themselves to their houses, and there await in fear and trembling what may befall; then the 'bush devils' are to be seen rushing about like madmen, and if any one, but more especially a slave, be found in the street, they are sometimes put to death, more generally severely flogged. Thus, through fear, all are kept to their houses, and the emissaries of Egbo proceed to the abode of the delinquent, and deal out its awards without a chance of interruption.

Egbo is very active when a number of slaves are observed confabbing together; soon the drum sounds, and out rush the devils," and their scourges are plied mercilessly. I have given you all I could make of the scanty information gleaned from the traders; of course, it must be somewhat inaccurate; but, as it seemed to me curious, I hoped you would view it in the same light. Of their religion little is known; like most Africans, they are given to fetishism (Mr Bowick thus defines fetish, a charm, amulet, deity, any supernatural power or influence; any thing sacred); a tree, a stone, an insect, a piece of metal, a bunch of grass, a scrap of paper written on; in fact, whatever they choose, though ever so insignificant, after some slight ceremony,

We proceeded to Quatown, and visited its king. The town, save the mark,' is a small collection of miserable mud huts, the palace not a whit better than its neighbours, though larger; yet great ceremony was necessary before we were admitted. After waiting some time we were ushered through a court surrounded with huts, into the regal palace, which was a room about eight feet square, and six in height; the door served three purposes, admitting the occupants as well as light; and allowing the exit of the smoke; representing door, window, and chimney; opposite it was a recess with a dirty striped cotton curtain hanging before it. Behind said curtain sat King Qua; he is never visible to strangers. It is said he is a leper, and so conceals himself. With him in this slime-constructed dog-hole were seven or eight men gorging on fufou and palm oil; we could scarce force our way through them, to shake the hand thrust from the recess to greet us. After undergoing this ordeal, we were offered a share of their viands, but declined the kind offer; and as etiquette required us to taste, we made them send for some fresh mimbo, of which we drank with great gusto, though almost choked, the heat and stench were so dreadful. When we had quenched our thirst, we rushed out of the vile oven, and took to the country. It is very beautiful round Quatown; we wandered about among lofty and magnificent trees, and countless flowering shrubs and flowers, but still scarce a bird or beast seemed to haunt them, either for food or shade; there was an over luxuriance, which gave me the idea of churchyard rankness, and detracted greatly from my pleasure. We hurried back to meet Eyo, who was to honour the Sealark with his presence at dinner. In spite of our exertions we were late; dinner had been commenced some time before we got on board; however, we soon joined, and tried hard to make