steady hand are no less necessary to seize the report had got about in the autumn of 1834, that exact moment of projection, and infuse the last the celebrated chef was dead, and a scientific soupçon of piquancy, than to mark the changing friend of ours took the liberty to mention it to the fortunes of a battle, or execute a critical winning garçon, avowing at the same time his own total hazard at the billiard table. Besides, few will be incredulity. He left the room without a word, public-spirited enough to keep a choice of rare but within five minutes he hurriedly threw open things in readiness, unless the demand be both the door, exclaiming, "Messieurs, il vient se monconstant and discriminating. We must, there-trer;" and sure enough the great artist in his fore, be held blameless in case of any disappoint- own proper person presented himself, and our disment resulting from changes subsequently to the tinguished ally enjoyed the honour of a brief, but commencement of the present year, 1835. pregnant conversation with a man whose works are more frequently in the mouths of his most enlightened cotemporaries, than those of any other great artist that could be named. Fastidiousness itself has detected but a single fault in them, which it would be wrong, however-particularly as manifesting some distrust of the influence of his general character-to suppress. It has been thought, hypercritically, perhaps, that the entrees and entremets at the Rocher, have a shade too much of the appearance of elaboration, and that the classic adage, “ars est celare artem," has escaped the attention of the master. This fault, it is to be observed, is characteristic of the old régime, as may be collected from one of the best descriptions of a dinner on record, that of the Count de Bethune's in Lady Blessington's last and cleverest novel.*

The Rocher de Cancale first grew into reputation by its oysters, which, about the year 1804, M. Balaine, the founder of the establishment, contrived the means of bringing to Paris fresh and in the best possible order, at all seasons alike; thus giving a direct practical refutation of the prejudice, that oysters are good in those months only which include the canine letter.* He next applied himself with equal and well-merited success to fish and game; and at length taking courage to generalise his exertions, he aspired to, and attained the eminence, which the Rocher has ever since enjoyed without dispute. His fulness of reputation dates from November 28th, 1809, when he served a dinner of twenty-four covers in a style which made it the sole topic of conversation to gastronomic Paris for a month. The bill of fare, a most appetising document, preserved in the "Almanach," exhibits the harmonious and rich array of four potages, four relevés, twelve entrées, four grosses pièces, four plats de rôt, and eight entremets. To dine, indeed, in perfection at the Rocher, the student should order a dinner of ten covers, a week or ten days beforehand, at not less than forty francs a head, exclusive of wine; nor is this price by any means excessive, for three or four louis a head were ordinarily given at Tailleur's more than twenty years ago. If you have not been able to make a party, or are compelled to improvise a dinner, you had better ask the garfon to specify the luxuries of the day; provided always you can converse with him with connoissance de cause, for otherwise he will hardly condescend to communicativeness. When he does condescend, it is really delightful to witness the quiet self-possessed manner, the con amore intelligent air, with which he dictates his instructions, invariably concluding with the same phrase, uttered in an exulting self-gratulatory tone-Bien, Monsieur, vous avez-là un excellent dîner! Never, too, shall we forget the dignity with which he once corrected a blunder made in our ménu by a tyro of the party, who had interpolated a salmi between the potage à la bisque and the turbot à la crême et au gratin. 66 Messieurs," said he, as he brought in the turbot according to the preordained order of things, "le poisson est NATURELLEMENT le relevé du potage." Another instance of the zeal with which the whole establishment seems instinct, and we have done. A

* Apicius is said to have supplied Trajan with fresh oysters at all seasons of the year.

+ Cambacères was present at one of Tailleur's three louis a head dinners, given by M. des Androuins, and exclaimed in a transport of enthusiasm: M. Tailleur, on ne dine pas mieux que cela chez moi.

We shall run counter to a great many judgments, by taking Grignon's next; but on the present subject, as indeed on most others, we may apply Dryden's character of Buckingham, with the change of a single syllable, to ourselves: "Stiff in opinions, always in the right." The time has been when Grignon's was the most popular house in Paris, though it must be owned, we fear, that its popularity was in some sort owing to an attraction a little alien from the proper purpose of a restaurant: two damsels of surpassing beauty presided at the comptoir. But it had and has other merits, of a kind that will be most particularly appreciated by an Englishman. All the simple dishes are exquisite, and the fish (the rarest of all things at Paris) is really fresh. Unfortunately, the recent diminution of visiters has superinduced a bad habit of carelessness on the chef, who should be specially advised of the presence of an amateur. The best person for this purpose is the head garçon in the first large room of the suite, who is animated by the most energetic zeal for the honour of the establishment, and impressed with due notions of the dignity of the art. On one occasion, to give an illustration of his taste, he was apologising for the length of time a particular dish would take in dressing. "Mais, Monsieur ne s'ennuiera point,” he added, presenting his neatly bound octavo volume of a carte, "voilà une lecture très-agréable!" on another occasion, to give an illustration of his good faith, a friend of ours resolved on finishing with the very best wine that could be had, and the Clos took the order, but hesitated, and after moving a de Vougeot of 1819 was fixed on. The garçon evident that conflicting emotions were struggling few paces as if to execute it, stood still. It was

* See "The Two Friends," (1835,) vol. ii. page 42.

for mastery in his soul, but the struggle terminated | family deserted it-ex illo retro fluere et sublapin our friend's favour, for he suddenly stole back sa referri-and we seek in vain in their establishto the table, and with the most unqualified admis-ment in the Palais Royal, the charm which hung sion of the excellence of the Clos de Vougeot, about its predecessor of the Tuileries. Death, which was very generally in request-still, if he too, had intervened, and carried off the most dismight venture to hint a preference, he would re- tinguished of the brothers. A magnificent monucommend a trial of the Richebourg instead. Now, ment has been erected to his memory in Père la Richebourg is by no means in the first class of Chaise, with an inscription concluding thus:wines, and the wine in question was only five Toute sa vie fut consacree aux arts utiles. The francs a bottle, whilst the Clos de Vougeot was house was put under a new system of managetwelve; but our correspondent found every reason ment at the beginning of the last year, and bids to rejoice in the discovery. Remember, we do fair to be once again a favourite with the connot vouch for the existence of this identical Riche-noisseur; unless the ignorant English, attracted bourg at this present writing; for vintages are thither by its former notoriety, should persevere unfortunately not renewable like hogsheads; and in ruining it. in Paris, where even the best restaurateurs pay The ignorance occasionally displayed there is comparatively little attention to their cellars, a enough to ruin any artist in the world. For first rate wine of any sort may be described pretty example, a friend of ours, two or three summers nearly as a virtuous despot was by the late Empe- ago, had forced on his attention the proceedings ror Alexander; who, when Madame de Staël was of some bank clerks, enjoying their fortnight's expatiating to him on the happiness of his sub-furlough in France, who were attempting to order jects in the possession of such a czar, is said to a dinner without knowing a syllable of French. have exclaimed pathetically: "Alas! Madam, "Alas! Madam, I Their mode of indicating their wishes was by am nothing but a happy accident." When one copying at random sundry items from the carte, of these happy accidents (the wine or the empe- to the no small astonishment of the garçon, who ror) expires, it is seldom, very seldom, that the saw entremets taking precedence of entrees, and vacant place can be adequately supplied. It is a vol-au-vent postponed to the game. At length therefore just as well to procrastinate the catas- they wrote down as follows: for our authority trophe, by making no imprudent disclosures which begged and retains their dinner-bill as one of the may accelerate it; and in the present instance our most Upcottian of autographs-“Fricandeau à informant did not make up his mind to impart the l'oseille ou à la chicorée." This was a puzzler; secret, until fairly convinced that there was little the waiter begged for explanation, and was referprospect of his profiting by it again-pretty much red, as to an unimpugnable authority, to the carte, as Jonathan Wild was once induced to be guilty which had certainly been copied to the letter. of a good action, after fully satisfying himself," Bien, Messieurs, mais qu'est-ce que vous voulez, upon the maturest deliberation, that he could gain nothing by refraining from it. Grignon's sherry (sherry being only taken as a vin de liqueur in France) will probably last our time, and we therefore do not hesitate to say that it is excellent. Another delicacy peculiar to the place, is britsauce (not sauce de pain) which, though no doubt imitated from the English composition called bread-sauce, will be found to bear no greater resemblance, than one of Sir Thomas Lawrence's portraits of an old woman, to the original; all the harsher points being mellowed down, and an indescribable shading of seductive softness infused.

à l'oseille ou à la chicoree?" They stared by turns at one another, and at him, but the matter of delay was a mystery, and the waiter no doubt desired the chef to send up what he could do quickest and easiest for two bêtes Anglois.

We find we must hurry over the rest upon our list. The Cafe de Paris is a delightful place to dine in during fine weather, by day-light; the rooms are the most splendid in Paris; and though the price of every thing is nearly a third higher than the average rate, even in the best houses, the tables are almost always full; so we need hardly add that it is completely à la mode. We have heard the cookery doubted by competent judges, and it is certainly exceedingly unequal; but some few of their dishes, as their salmis of game and soles en matelotte Normande,

The early fame of the Vérys was gained by their judicious application of the truffe. Their entrées truffees were universally allowed to be inimitable from the first, and they gradually ex-are allowed to be inimitable. tended their reputation, till it embraced the whole known world of cookery. We have already mentioned a decisive indication of their greatness in 1814, when they were commissioned by the allied sovereigns to purvey for them during their stay; and so long as the establishment on the Tuileries was left standing, the name of Véry retained its talismanic powers of attraction, the delight and pride of gastronomy—

"Whilst stands the coliseum, Rome shall stand; And whilst Rome stands the world-"

But when the house in question was removed to make way for the public buildings which now rest upon its site, the presiding genius of the

If you pass in front of Périgord's, a few doors from Very's, in the palais royal, about seven, you will see a succession of small tables, occupied each by a single gastronome eating with all the gravity and precision becoming one of the most arduous duties of life-an unequivocal symptom of a cuisine recherchee. But the rooms, consisting merely of a ground floor and an entresol, are so hot and close, that it is always with fear and trembling that any English savant can venture to dine in them; a pure air being, in his opinion, absolutely necessary to the full enjoyment of the aroma of a dish.

Lointier's is an excellent house for a dîner commande, but we would recommend him to be

less prodigal of his truffes; the excessive use of which is quite destructive of the variety required in a well ordered menu.

merians, and Scythians, broke into France, they brought with them a rare voracity and stomachs of no ordinary calibre. They did not long remain satisfied with the The Cafe Anglais, on the Italian Boulevards, official cheer which a forced hospitality supplied to them; we recommend merely as the nearest good house they aspired to more refined enjoyments; and in a short time the queen city was little more than an immense reto the Varietes, Gymnase, and Porte St. Martin; fectory. our own attention was first attracted to it by "The effect lasts still; foreigners flock from every seeing a party, of which M. Thiers was the quarter of Europe, to renew during peace the pleasing centre, in the constant habit of dining there. habits they contracted during the war; they must come Now, M. Thiers is an hereditary judge of such to Paris; when there, they must eat and drink without matters; at least he was once described to us by regard to price; and if our funds obtain a preference, it another member of Louis Philippe's present cabi-is owing less to the higher interest they pay, than to the net, as "le fils aîné d'une très-mauvaise cuisi-instinctive confidence it is impossible to help reposing in nière," and we are willing to reject the invidious a people amongst whom gourmands are so happy!"part of the description as a pleasantry or a bit of vol. i. p. 239. malice most peculiarly and particularly French. Or it may have been added out of kindness, for it is told of a wit of other days, that when a friend asked him if he was really married to an actress, be replied, "Yes, my dear fellow, but she was a bad one"-meaning, evidently, that her vocation was for better things.

Les Trois Frères Provençaux gained their fame by brandades de merluche, morue à l'ail, and Provençal ragouts, but the best thing now to be tasted there is a vol-au-vent.

Hardy and Riche have been condemned to a very critical kind of notoriety by a pun-"Pour diner chez Hardy, il faut être riche; et pour dîner chez Riche, il faut être hardi." We never were hardy enough to try Riche, but those who are rich enough to try Hardy, will still find a breakfast fully justifying the commendation of Mr. Robert Fudge:

To give an individual illustration of the principle-when the Russian army of invasion passed through Champagne, they took away six hundred thousand bottles from the cellars of M. Moet of Epernay; but he considers himself a gainer by the loss, his orders from the north having more than doubled since then. M. Moet's cellars, be it said in passing, are peculiarly deserving of attention, and he is always happy to do the honours to travellers. We ourselves visited them last autumn, and were presented, at parting, with a bottle of the choicest wine-a custom, we understand, invariably observed in this munificent establishment.

In Italy, whenever the thoughts of the amateur turn on eating, the object is pretty certain to be French. Thus there is a well known story in the Italian jest books about a bet between two cardinals. The bet was a dinde aux truffes. The "I strut to the old café Hardy, which yet loser postpones the payment till the very eve of Beats the field at a déjeuner à la fourchette; the carnival, when the winner reminds him of the Tortoni, however, the Gunter of Paris, is the debt. He excuses himself on the ground that favourite just at present, for a dejeûner; and par-bah," says the other, "that is a false report, origitruffles were worth nothing that year. "Bah, fait-amour is obsolete. We have spoken of the important effects pro-is the native Italian cookery, that even the Gernating with the turkeys." So very bad, indeed, duced by the breaking out of the revolution. We now proceed to mention the no less important fessor Nicolai, Italien wie es wirklich ist, a commans cry shame on it. In the late work of Proeffects produced by the conclusion of it-or rather of one of its great stages-which are most dra-plaint of the dinner forms a regular item in the matically indicated by the author of the Physi-hand with the new in this enthusiasm for the journal of the day. The old world is not behindologie.

its

missions entrusted to M. Armand de Brémont by cookery of France; amongst the other special Bolivar, was that of bringing over the best French cook he could entice.

"By the treaty of November, 1815," says M. Brillat Savarin," France was bound to pay the sum of 50,000,000 francs within three years, besides claims for compensation and requisitions of various sorts, amounting to nearly as much more. The apprehension became general that We have now cleared the way for England, a national bankruptcy must ensue ; the more particularly but we shall experience a more than ordinary as all was to be paid in specie. Alas,' said the good difficulty in treating of it, as we cannot well venpeople of France, as they saw the fatal tumbrel go by on ture to illustrate by cotemporary instances, and way to be filled in the Rue Vivienne, 'Alas, our mo we are fearful of affording materials to injurious ney is emigrating; next year we shall go down on our detraction by criticism. Our notice must, thereknees before a five franc piece; we are about to fall into fore, deal mostly in generals, and be brief. It the condition of a ruined man; speculations of all sorts seems allowed on all hands that a first-rate dinner will fail; there will be no such thing as horrowing; it in England is out of all comparison better than a will be weakness, exhaustion, civil death.' The event dinner of the same class in any other country; proved the apprehension to be false; and to the great for we get the best cooks, as we get the best sing. astonishment of all engaged in finance matters, the payers and dancers, by bidding highest for them, and ments were made with facility, credit rose, loans were

eagerly caught at, and during the whole time this super- we have cultivated certain national dishes to a purgation lasted, the balance of exchange was in favour point which makes them the envy of the world. of France; which proves that more money came into In proof of this bold assertion, which is backed, than went out of it. What is the power that came to our moreover, by the unqualified admission of Ude,* assistance? Who is the divinity that effected this miracle?-Gourmandise. When the Britons, Germans, Cim

*"I will venture to affirm that cookery in England,

Potages. Printannier: à la reine: turtle (two tureens.)

rue white bait.

"Poissons.-Turbot (lobster and Dutch sauces): saumon à la Tartare: rougets à la cardinal: friture de mo"Relevés.-Filet de bœuf à la Napolitaine: dindon à la chipolate: timballe de macaroni: haunch of venison. "Entrées.-Croquettes de volaille: petits pâtés aux huîtres: côtelettes d'agneau: purée de champignons: côtelettes d'agneau aux pois d'asperge: fricandeau de veau à l'oseille ris de veau piqué aux tomates: côtelettes de pigeons à la Dusselle: chartreuse de légumes aux faisans filets de cannetons à la Bigarrade: boudins à la Richelieu sauté de volaille aux truffes: pâté de mouton

monté.

"Coté-Bœuf rôti: jambon: salade.

"Second Service.

:

artists of acknowledged reputation amongst us. We shall merely enumerate a few very distinguished names for the enlightenment of the rising generation and of posterity. Such are Ude, Lefevre, Bony, Martin, Hall, Crepin, Francatelli, Collins and Loyer,-all at present residing in London; with whom Boyer, ci-devant cook to the Marquis of Worcester, and now master of the Bell at Leicester, richly merits to be associated. The celebrated chef of the late Marquis of Abercorn, who refused to accompany the Duke of Richmond to Ireland, at a salary of 400l. a year, on hearing that there was no Italian opera at Dublin, was burnt to death in Lisle street some years ago, and we remember a fair friend of ours exultingly declaring that she had partaken of one of his posthumous pies. These great artists, with others whose names are not now present to our memory, have raised cookery in England to a state which really does honour to the age.

We are now arrived at the conclusion of our sketch of the history and present state of cookery, and have only a single cautionary observation to add. Without appliances and means to boot, it is madness to attempt entrees and entremets; and "better first in a village than second in Rome," is a maxim peculiarly applicable to cook"A good soup, a small turbot, a neck of venison, ducklings with green peas or chicken with asparagus, and an apricot tart, is a dinner for an emperor,-when he cannot get a better;" so said the late accomplished Earl of Dudleyand we agree with him: but let peculiar attention be given to the accessaries. There was profound knowledge of character in the observation of the same statesman on a deceased baron of the exchequer," He was a good man, sir, an excellent man; he had the best melted butter I ever tasted in my life."

"Rots-Chapons, quails, turkey poults, green goose. "Entremets.-Asperges: haricot à la Française: may-ery.. onaise d'homard: gelée Macedoine: aspices d'œufs de pluvier Charlotte Russe: gelée au Marasquin: crême marbre corbeille de pâtisserie: vol-au-vent de rhubarb tourte d'abricots : corbeille des meringues: dressed crab: salade au gélantine.-Champignons aux fines herbes. "Relévés.-Soufflée à la vanille: Nesselrode pudding: Adelaide sandwiches: fondus. Pièces montées, &c. &c. The reader will not fail to observe how well the English dishes,-turtle, white bait, and venison,-relieve the French in this dinner, and what a breadth, depth, solidity, and dignity they add to it. Green goose, also, may rank as English, the In Mercier's Tableau de Paris, there are some goose being held in little honour, with the excep-statistical results which may be found useful in tion of its liver, by the French; but we think the selection of cooks. By dint of a profound Comte d'Orsay did quite right in inserting it. and disinterested study of the subject, he has The execution is said to have been pretty nearly been enabled to classify them by provinces. on a par with the conception, and the whole en- "The best," he says "are from Picardy; those tertainment was crowned with the most inspirit- from Orleans come next; then Flanders, Buring success. The moderation of the price must gundy, Comtois, Lorraine; the Parisian last but strike every one. A tradition has reached us of a one, and the Norman last of all." But it is not dinner at The Albion, under the auspices of the enough to choose your cook; it is your bounden late venerable Sir William Curtis, which cost the duty, and (what is more) your interest, sedulously party between thirty and forty pounds a piece. and unceasingly to watch over his health. We have also a vague recollection of a bet as to But we must now apply ourselves a little more the comparative merits of the Albion and York critically to the literature most appropriately rehouse (Bath) dinners, which was formally decid-presented by the works named at the head of this ed by a dinner of unparalleled munificence, and nearly equal cost, at each; or rather not decided, for it became a drawn bet, the Albion beating in the first course, and the York house in the second. But these are reminiscences, on which, we frankly own, no great reliance is to be placed.

It is very far from our intention to attempt a catalogue raisonne of the different hotels and club houses of London, similar to that which we have hazarded of the restaurants of France, nor can we pretend to balance the pretensions of the

when well done, is superior to that of any country in the world."-Ude, p. xliii.

article.

Mirabeau used to present Condorcet with voilà ma theorie, and the Abbé Maury with voilà ma pratique. We beg leave to present M. BrillatSavarin as our theory, M. Ude as our practice; and we shall endeavour, by an account of their works, to justify the selection we have made. But we shall first give a short biographical sketch of the French author, whose life, conduct, and position in society did honour to gastronomy, and form an apt introduction to his work.

Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, judge of the court of cassation, member of the legion of honour, and of most of the scientific and literary societies of

tion is too frequently associated in the minds of the unenlightened with gluttony and greediness.

France, was born in 1755 at Belley. He was bred |ing; 16, digestion; 17, repose; 18, sleep; 19, up to his father's profession of the law, and was dreams; 20, the influence of diet on repose, practising with some distinction as an advocate, sleep, and dreams; 21, obesity; 22, treatment when (in 1789) he was elected a member of the preventive or curative of obesity; 23, leanness; constituent assembly, where he joined the mode-24, fasts; 25, exhaustion; 26, death; 27, phirate party, and did his best to avert the ruin that losophical history of the kitchen; 28, restauraensued. At the termination of his legislative du-teurs; 29, classical gastronomy put in action; ties, he was appointed president of the civil tribu-30, gastronomic mythology. nal of the department of L'Ain, and on the esta- Such is the menu of this book, and we pity the blishment of the court of cassation was made a man whose leading appetite is not excited by it. judge of it. During the reign of terror he found Amongst such a collection of dainties it is diffihimself amongst the proscribed, and fled for refuge cult to select, but we will do our best to extract to Switzerland, where he contrived to while away some of the most characteristic passages. The the time in scientific, literary, and gastronomical following, on the pleasures of the table, may pursuits. He was afterwards compelled to emi-serve to dissipate some portion of the existing grate to America, where also his attention seems prejudice against gourmands, whose high vocararely to have been diverted from the study in which he was destined to immortalise himself. It is related of him, that once, on his return from "The pleasure of eating is common to us with ania shooting expedition, in the course of which he mals; it merely supposes hunger, and that which is nehad the good fortune to kill a wild turkey, he fell cessary to satisfy it. The pleasure of the table is pecuinto conversation with Jefferson, who began re- liar to the human species; it supposes antecedent attenlating some interesting anecdotes about Wash-tion to the preparation of the repast, to the choice of place, ington and the war, when, observing the air dis- and the assembling of the guests. The pleasure of eattrait of M. Brillat-Savarin, he stopped, and was ing requires, if not hunger, at least appetite; the pleasure about to go away: "My dear sir," said our gas- of the table is most frequently independent of both. tronomer, recovering himself by a strong effort, "Some poets complained that the neck, by reason of "I beg a thousand pardons, but I was thinking its shortness, was opposed to the duration of the pleasure how I should dress my wild turkey." He earned of tasting; others deplored the limited capacity of the his subsistence by teaching French and music, an than two quarts of pulp); and Roman dignitaries went stomach (which will not hold, upon the average, more art in which he remarkably excelled. He return the length of sparing it the trouble of digesting the first ed to France in 1796, and after filling several meal, to have the pleasure of swallowing a second.. employments of trust under the directory, was re- The delicacy of our manners would not endure this appointed to his old office of judge of the court of practice; but we have done better, and we have arrived cassation, in which he continued until his death at the same end by means recognised by good taste. in 1826. The Physiologie du Goût was publish- Dishes have been invented so attractive, that they uned some time in the year 1825, and ran rapidly ceasingly renew the appetite, and which are at the same through five or six editions, besides reprints in time so light, that they flatter the palate without loading Belgium. Its great charm consists in the singu- the stomach. Seneca would have called them Nubes lar melange of wit, humour, learning, and know- Esculentas. We are, indeed, arrived at such a degree of ledge of the world-bons mots, anecdotes, in-alimentary progression, that if the calls of business did genious theories and instructive dissertations which it presents; and if, as we are told and believe, Walton's Angler has made many of its readers turn fishermen, we should not be at all surprised to hear that the "Physiology of Taste" had converted a fair portion of the reading public into gastronomers.

did not interpose, the duration of meals might be almost not compel us to rise from table, or if the want of sleep indefinite, and there would be no sure data for determining the time that might elapse between the first glass of Madeira* and the last glass of punch."

แ

In this place it may not be deemed beside the purpose to state that M. Brillat-Savarin was naThe book consists of a collection of apho-turally of a sober, moderate, easily satisfied disrisms, a dialogue between the author and a friend position; so much so, indeed, that many have as to the expediency of publication, a biographi-been misled into the supposition that his enthucal notice of the friend, thirty meditations, and a siasm was unreal, and his book a piece of badiconcluding miscellany of adventures, inventions, nage written to amuse his leisure hours. He and anecdotes. The meditations (a term substi- continues as follows:— tuted for chapters) form the main body of the But, the impatient reader will probably exclaim, how work, and relate to the following subjects: then is a meal to be regulated, in order to unite all things 1, the senses; 2, the taste; 3, gastronomy; defi-requisite to the highest pleasures of the table? I pronition, origin, and use; 4, the appetite, with illus-ceed to answer this question. 1. "Let not the number of the company exceed trations of its capacity; 5, alimentary substances in general; 6, specialities, including game, fish, twelve, that the conversation may be constantly general. 2. "Let them be so selected that their occupations turkeys, truffles, sugar, coffee, chocolate, &c. &c.; shall be varied, their tastes analogous, and with such 7, frying, its theory; 8, thirst: 9, beverages; points of contact that there shall be no necessity for the 10, episode on the end of the world; 11, gour-odious formality of presentations. mandise, its power and consequences, particularly 3. "Let the eating-room be luxuriously lighted, the as regards conjugal happiness; 12, gourmands,

by predestination, education, profession, &c.; *The custom of taking parmesan with, and Madeira 13, eprouvettes gastronomiques; 14, on the after, soup, was introduced into France by M. Talleyrand, pleasures of the table; 15, the halts in sport-who was an acquaintance of our excellent author.