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less prodigal of his truffes; the excessive use of merians, and Scythians, broke into France, they brought which is quite destructive of the variety required with them a rare voracity and stomachs of no ordinary in a well ordered menu.

calibre. They did not long remain satisfied with the The Cafe Anglais, on the Italian Boulevards, official cheer which a forced hospitality supplied to them; we recommend merely as the nearest good house they aspired to more refined enjoyments; and in a short to the Varietes, Gymnuse, and Porte St. Martin; time the queen city was little more than an immense re

fectory. our own attention was first attracted to it by

“ The effect lasts still; foreigners flock from every seeing a party, of which M. Thiers was the quarter of Europe, to renew during peace the pleasing centre, in the constant habit of dining there. habits they contracted during the war'; they must come Now, M. Thiers is an hereditary judge of such to Paris; when there, they must eat and drink without matters; at least he was once described to us by regard to price; and if our funds obtain a preference, it another member of Louis Philippe's present cabi. is owing less to the higher interest they pay, than to the net, as “le fils aîné d'une très-mauraise cuisi- instinctive confidence it is inpossible to help reposing in nière," and we are willing to reject the invidious a people amongst whom gourmands are so happy !"part of the description as a pleasantry or a bit of vol. i. p. 239. malice most peculiarly and particularly French. To give an individual illustration of the prinOr it may have been added out of kindness, for itciple-when the Russian army of invasion passed is told of a wit of other days, that when a friend through Champagne, they took away six hundred asked him if he was really married to an actress, thousand bottles from the cellars of M. Moet of be replied, “Yes, my dear fellow, but she was a Epernay ; but he considers himself a gainer by

bad one”—meaning, evidently, that her the loss, his orders from the north having more vocation was for better things.

than doubled since then. M. Moet's cellars, be it Les Trois Frères Provençaux gained their said in passing, are peculiarly deserving of attenfame by brandades de merluche, morue à l'ail, tion, and he is always happy to do the honours to and Provençal ragouts, but the best thing now to travellers. We ourselves visited them last aube tasted there is a vol-au-rent.

tumn, and were presented, at parting, with a bottle Hardy and Riche have been condemned to a of the choicest wine-a custom, we understand, very critical kind of notoriety by a pun-"Pour invariably observed in this munificent establishdiner chez Hardy, il faut être riche; et pour dîner ment. chez Riche, il faut être hardi.” We never were In Italy, whenever the thoughts of the amateur hardy enough to try Riche, but those who are rich turn on eating, the object is pretty certain to be enough to try Hardy, will still find a breakfast French. Thus there is a well known story in the fully justifying the commendation of Mr. Robert Italian jest books about a bet between two cardiFudge :

nals. The bet was a dinde aux truffes. The " I strut to the old café Hardy, which yet loser postpones the payment till the very ere of

Beats the field at a déjeunei à la fourchette; The carnival, when the winner reminds him of the Tortoni, however, the Gunter of Paris, is the debt. He excuses himself on the ground that favourite just at present, for a dèjeûner ; and par-bah,” says the other, " that is a false report, origi

truffles were worth nothing that year. "Bah, fait-amour is obsolete. We have spoken of the important effects pro- is the native Italian cookery, that even the Ger

nating with the turkeys.” So very bad, indeed, duced by the breaking out of the revolution. We now proceed to mention the no less important fessor Nicolai, Italien wie es wirklich ist, a com

mans cry shame on it. In the late work of Proeffects produced by the conclusion of it-or rather of one of its great stages-which are most dra- plaint of the dinner forms a regular item in the matically indicated by the author of the Physi- hand with the new in this enthusiasm for the

journal of the day. The old world is not behindologie. “ By the treaty of November, 1815,” says M. Brillat missions entrusted to M. Armand de Brémont by

cookery of France; amongst the other special Savarin, “ France was bound to pay the sum of 50,000,000 Bolivar, was that of bringing over the best French francs within three years, besides claims for compensa. tion and requisitions of various sorts, amounting to nearly

cook he could entice. as much more. The apprehension became general that

We have now cleared the way for England, a national bankruptcy must ensue ; the more particularly but we shall experience a more than ordinary as all was to be paid in specie. * Alas,' said the good difficulty in treating of it, as we cannot well ven people of France, as they saw the fatal tumbrel go by on ture to illustrate by cotemporary instances, and its way to be filled in the Rue Vivienne, ‘Alas, our mo we are fearsul of affording materials to injurious ney is emigrating ; next year we shall go down on our detraction by criticism. Our notice must, thereknees before a five franc piece; we are about to fall into fore, deal mostly in generals, and be brief. It the condition of a ruined man; speculations of all sorts seems allowed on all hands that a first-rate dinner will fail; there will be no such thing as horrowing; it in England is out of all comparison better than a will be weakness, exhaustion, civil death. The event dinner of the same class in any other country ; proved the apprehension to be false; and to the great for we get the best cooks, as we get the best sing, astonishment of all engaged in finance matters, the payers and dancers, by bidding highest for them, and eagerly caught at, and during the whole time this super- we have cultivated certain national dishes to a purgation lasted, the balance of exchange was in favour point which makes them the envy of the world. of France; which proves that more money came into In proof of this bold assertion, which is backed, than went out of it. What is the power that came to our moreover, by the unqualified admission of Ude, assistance? Who is the divinity that effected this mira. cle ?-Gourmandise. When the Britons, Germans, Cim. *“ I will venture to affirm that cookery in England,

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we request attention to the menu of the dinner artists of acknowledged reputation amongst us. given in May last to Lord Chesterfield, on his We shall merely enumerate a few very distinquitting the office of master of the buckhounds, at guished names for the enlightenment of the rising the Clarendon. The party consisted of thirty ; generation and of posterity. Such are Ude, Lethe price was six guineas a head; and the dinner levre, Bony, Martin, Hall, Crepin, Francatelli, was ordered by Comte d'Orsay, who stands with Collins and Loyer,-all at present residing in out a rival amongst connoisseurs in this depart- London; with whom Boyer, ci-devant cook to the ment of art :

Marquis of Worcester, and now master of the Premier Service.

Bell at Leicester, richly merits to be associated.

The celebrated chef of the late Marquis of Aber“ Polages.—Printannier : à la reine: turlle (two lu- corn, who refused to accompany the Duke of reens.)

Richmond to Ireland, at a salary of 4001. a year, “Poissons.-Turbot (lobster and Dutch sauces): sau.

on hearing that there was no Italian opera at mon à la Tartare : rougets à la cardinal: friture de mo

Dublin, was burnt to death in Lisle street some rue : white bait.

" Relevés.-Filet de bæuf à la Napolitaine : dindon à years ago, and we remember a fair friend of ours la chipolate : timballe de macaroni: haunch of venison. exultingly declaring that she had partaken of one

Entrées.-Croquettes de volaille: petits pâtés aux of his posthumous pies. These great artists, with huitres: côtelettes d'agneau: purée de champignons : others whose names are not now present to our côtelettes d'agneau aux pois d'asperge: fricandeau de memory, have raised cookery in England to a veau à l'oseille: ris de veau piqué aux tomates: côtelettes state which really does honour to the age. de pigeons à la Dusselle: chartreuse de légumes aux fai. We are now arrived at the conclusion of our sans : filets de cannetons à la Bigarrade : boudins à la sketch of the history and present state of cookery, Richelieu : sauté de volaille aux truffes: pálé de mouton and have only a single cautionary observation to

add. Without appliances and means to boot, it “Coté-Beuf rôli : jambon : salade.

is madness to attempt entrees and entremets ; “ Second Service,

and “better first in a village than second in “ Rots—Chapons, quails, turkey poults, green goose.

Rome,” is a maxim peculiarly applicable to cookEntremets.—Asperges : haricot à la Française : may. ery.. “A good soup, a small turbot, a neck of onaise d'homard : gelée Macedoine : aspices d’æufs de venison, ducklings with green peas or chicken pluvier : Charlotte Russe : gelée au Marasquin : crême with asparagus, and an apricot tart, is a dinner marbre : corbeille de pâtisserie : vol-au-vent de rhubarb : for an emperor, - when he cannot get a better;" tourte d'abricots : corbeille des meringues : dressed crab : so said the late accomplished Earl of Dudleysalade au gélantine.-Champignons aux fines herbes. and we agree with him: but let peculiar atten

" Relévès.—Souffée à la vanille : Nesselrode pudding: tion be given to the accessaries. There was proAdelaide sandwiches : fondus. Pièces inontées, &c. &c. found knowledge of character in the observation

The reader will not fail to observe how well of the same statesman on a deceased baron of the the English dishes,-turtle, white bait, and veni-exchequer, -" He was a good man, sir, an excelson, --relieve the French in this dinner, and what lent man; he had the best melted butter I ever a breadth, depth, solidity, and dignity they add to tasted in my life.” it. Green goose, also, may rank as English, the In Mercier's Tableau de Paris, there are some goose being held in little honour, with the excep- statistical results which may be found useful in tion of its liver, by the French; but we think the selection of cooks. By dint of a profound Comte d'Orsay did quite right in inserting it. and disinterested study of the subject, he has The execution is said to have been pretty nearly been enabled to classify them by provinces. on a par with the conception, and the whole en The best,” he says "are from Picardy ; those tertainment was crowned with the most inspirit- from Orleans come next; then Flanders, Buring success. The moderation of the price must gundy, Comtois, Lorraine; the Parisian last but strike every one. A tradition has reached us of a one, and the Norman last of all.” But it is not dinner at The Albion, under the auspices of the enough to choose your cook; it is your bounden late venerable Sir William Curtis, which cost the duty, and (what is more) your interest, sedulously party, between thirty and forty pounds a piece. and unceasingly to watch over his health. We have also a vague recollection of a bet as to But we must now apply ourselves a little more the comparative merits of the Albion and York critically to the literature most appropriately rehouse (Bath) dinners, which was formally decid- presented by the works named at the head of this ed by a dinner of unparalleled munificence, and article. nearly equal cost, at each; or rather not decided, Mirabeau used to present Condorcet with voilà for it became a drawn bet, the Albion beating in ma theorie, and the Abbé Maury with voilà ma the first course, and the York house in the second. pratique. We beg leave to present M. BrillatBut these are reminiscences, on which, we frankly Savarin as our theory, M. Ude as our practice; own, no great reliance is to be placed.

and we shall endeavour, by an account of their It is very far from our intention to attempt a works, to justify the selection we have made. catalogue 'raisonne of the different hotels and But we shall first give a short biographical sketch club houses of London, similar to that which we of the French author, whose life, conduct, and have hazarded of the restaurants of France, nor position in society did honour to gastronomy, and can we pretend to balance the pretensions of the form an apt introduction to his work.

Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, judge of the court of when well done, is superior to that of any country in the cassation, member of the legion of honour, and world."- Ude, p. xliii.

of most of the scientific and literary societies of

France, was born in 1755 at Belley. He was bred ling; 16, digestion ; 17, repose ; 18, sleep; 19, up to his father's profession of the law, and was dreams; 20, the influence of diet on repose, practising with some distinction as an advocate, sleep, and dreams ; 21, obesity ; 22, treatment when (in 1789) he was elected a member of the prerentire or curatire of obesity; 23, leanness ; constituent assembly, where he joined the mode-124, fasts ; 25, exhaustion ; 26, death ; 27, phirate party, and did bis best to avert the ruin that losophical history of the kitchen ; 28, restauraersued. "At the termination of his legislative du-teurs ; 29, classical gastronomy put in action; ties, he was appointed president of the civil tribu- 30, gastronomic mythology., nal of the department of L'Ain, and on the esta Such is the menu of this book, and we pity the blishment of the court of cassation was made a man whose reading appetite is not excited by it. judge of it. During the reign of terror he found Amongst such a collection of dainties it is diffihimself amongst the proscribed, and fled for refuge cult to select, but we will do our best to extract to Switzerland, where he contrived to while away some of the most characteristic passages. The the time in scientific, literary, and gastronomical following, on the pleasures of the table, may pursuits. He was afterwards compelled to emi- serve to dissipate some portion of the existing grate to America, where also his aitention seems prejudice against gourmands, whose high vocararely to have been diverted from the study in tion is too frequently associated in the minds of which he was destined to immortalise himself. the unenlightened with gluttony and greediness. It is related of him, that once, on his return from a shooting expedition, in the course of which he mals; it merely supposes hunger, and that which is ne

“The pleasure of eating is common to us with ani. had the good fortune to kill a wild turkey, he fell cessary to satisfy it. The pleasure of the table is pecuinto conversation with Jefferson, who began re- liar to the huinan species ; it supposes antecedent attenlating some interesting anecdotes about Wash- tion to the preparation of the repast, to the choice of place, ington and the war, when, observing the air dis- and the assembling of the guests. The pleasure of eat. trait of M. Brillat-Savarin, he stopped, and was ing requires, if not hunger, at least appetite; the pleasure about to go away : “My dear sir," said our gas- of the table is most frequently independent of both. tronomer, recovering himself by a strong effort, “Some poets complained that the neck, by reason of I beg a thousand pardons, but I was thinking its shortness, was opposed to the duration of the pleasure how I should dress my wild turkey.” He earned of tasting; others deplored the limited capacity of the his subsistence by teaching French and music, an ihan two quarts of pulp); and Roman dignitaries went

stomach (which will not hold, upon the average, more art in which he remarkably excelled. He return the length of sparing it the trouble of digesting the first ed to France in 1796, and after filling several meal, to have the pleasure of swallowing a second ... employments of trust under the directory, was re- The delicacy of our manners would not endure this appointed to his old office of judge of the court of practice; but we have done better, and we have arrived cassation, in which he continued until his death at the same end by means recognised by, good taste. in 1826. The Physiologie du Goût was publish- Dishes have been invented so attractive, that they un. ed some time in the year 1825, and ran rapidly ceasingly renew the appetite, and which are at the same through five or six editions, besides reprints in time so light, that they flatter the palale without loading Belgium. Its great charm consists in the singu- the stomach. Seneca would have called them Nubes lar melange of wit, humour, learning, and know- Esculentas. We are, indeed, arrived at such a degree of ledge of the worldbons mots, anecdotes, in- alimentary progression, that if the calls of business did genious theories and instructive dissertations not compel us to rise from table, or if the want of sleep

did not interpose, the duration of meals might be almost which it presents; and if, as we are told and indefinite, and there would be no sure data for determin. believe, Walton's Angler has made many of its ing the time that might elapse between the first glass roaders'turn fishermen, we should not be at all sur- of Madeira* and the last glass of punch." prised to hear that the “ Physiology of Taste” had converted a fair portion of the reading public

In this place it may not be deemed beside the into gastronomers.

purpose to state that M. Brillat-Savarin was naThe book consists of a collection of apho- turally of a sober, moderate, easily satisfied disrisms, a dialogue between the author and a friend position; so much so, indeed, that many have as to the expediency of publication, a biographi-siasm was unreal, and his book a piece of badi

been misled into the supposition that his enthucal notice of the friend, thirty meditations, and a concluding miscellany of adventures, inventions, nagę written to amuse his leisure hours. He and anecdotes. The meditations (a term substi- continues as follows:tuted for chapters) form the main body of the “But, the impatient reader will probably exclaim, how work, and relate to the following subjects :- then is a meal to be regulated, in order to unite all things 1, the senses ; 2, the taste; 3, gastronomy; defi- requisite to the highest pleasures of the table ? I pronition, origin, and use ; 4, the appetite, with illus- ceed to answer this question.

1. “Let not the number of the company exceed trations of its capacity; 5, alimentary substances in general; 6, specialities, including game, fish, twelve, that the conversation may be constantly general. turkeys, truffles, sugar, coffee, chocolate, &c. &c.; shall be varied, their tastes analogous, and with such

Let them be so selected that their occupations 7, frying, its iheory'; 8, thirst: 9, beverages ; points of contact that there shall be no necessity for the 10, episode on the end of the world ; 11, gour- odious formality of presentations. mandise, its power and consequences, particularly 3. “Let the eating-room be luxuriously lighted, the as regards conjugal happiness; 12, gourmands, by predestination, education, profession, &c.;

* The custom of taking parmesan with, and Madeira 13, eprouvettes gastronomiques ; 14, on the after, soup, was introduced into France by M. Talleyrand, pleasures of the table ; 15, the halts 'in sport- who was an acquaintance of our excellent author.

mur.

cloth remarkably clcan (!!), and the atmosphere at the impatience began to be observable; we looked at one temperature of from thirteen to sixteen degrees of Réau. another with distrust; and the first to murmur were

three or four of the party who, not having found room to 4. “ Let the men be spirituels without pretension, sit down, were by no means in a convenient position for the women pleasant without too much coquetry.* waiting. At the third hour, the discontent became gene

5. “Let the dishes be exceedingly choice, but limited ral, and every body complained. When will he come in number, and the wines of the first quality, each in its back ?' said one. What can he be thinking of?' said degree.

another. It is enough to give one one's death,' said a 6. “Let the order of progression be, for first, (the third. By the fourth hour, all the symptoms were aggradishes,) from the inost substantial to the lightest ; and for vated; and I was not listened to when I ventured to say, the second (the wincs,) from the simplest to the most per- that he whose absence rendered us so miserable was befumed.

yond a doubt the most miserable of all. Attention was 7. “Let the act of consumption be deliberate, the din. distracted for a moment by an apparition. One of the ner being the last business of the day; and let the guests party, better acquainted with the house than the others, consider themselves as travellers who are to arrive to penetrated to the kitchen; he returned quite overcome ; gether at the same place of destination.

his face announced the end of the world; and he ex8. " Let the coffee be hot, and the liqueurs chosen by claimed in a voice hardly articulate, and in that muffled the masler.

tone which expresses at the same time the fear of making 9. “Let the saloon be large enough to admit of a game a noise and the desire of being heard : Monseigneur set at cards for those who cannot do without it, and so that out without giving orders; and, however long his absence, there may, notwithstanding, remain space enough for dinner will not be served till his return.' He spoke, and post-meridian colloquy.

the alarm occasioned by his speech will not be surpassed 10. “Let the party be detained by the charms of so- by the effect of the trumpet on the day of judgment. ciety, and animated by the hope that the evening will not Amongst all these martyrs, the most wretched was the pass without some ulterior enjoyment.

good D'Aigrefcuille, * who is known to all Paris; his 11. “Let the tea be not too strong ; let the toast be body was all over suffering, and the agony of Laocoon scientifically buttered, and the punch carefully prepared. was in his face. Pale, distracted, seeing nothing, he sat

12. “Let not the retreat commence before eleven, but crouched upon an easy chair, crossed his little bands let every body be in bed by twelve.

upon his large belly, and closed his eyes, not to sleep, but “If any one has been present at a party uniting these to wait the approach of death. Death, however, came twelve requisites, he may boast of having been present not. Towards ten, a carriage was heard rolling into the at his own apotheosis."-vol. i. pp. 297–302.

court; the whole party sprang spontaneously to their

legs. Hilarity succeeded to sadness; and in five min. M. Brillat-Savarin has here omitted one very utes we were at table. But, alas! the hour of appetite important requisite, which it may be as well to was past! All had the air of being surprised at begin. supply without delay from another section of his ning dinner at so late an hour; the jaws had not that book.

isochronous (isochrone) movement which announces a "APHORISM.Of all the qualities of a cook, the most regular work; and I know that many guests were se

riously inconvenienced by the delay."- vol. i. 93-96. indispensable is puncluality.

"I shall support this grave maxim by the details of an The meditation entitled Gourmandise is reobservation made in a party of which I was one-quorum plete with instructive remark; but we must conpars magna fui—and where the pleasure of observing fine ourselves to that part of it which relates to saved me from the extremes of wretchedness.

the ladies, who, since Lord Byron'st silly preju"I was one day invited to dine with a high public dices upon the subject were made public, think it functionary ;t and at the appointed moment, half past five, prettiest and most becoming to profess a total inevery body had arrived, for it was known that he liked difference as to what they eat. Let them hear punctuality, and sometimes scolded the dilatory.. I was struck on my arrival by the air of consternation that our professor on this subject :reigned in the assembly; they spoke aside, they looked “ Gourmandise is by no means unbecoming in women; into the court-yard ; some faces announced stupefaction: it agrees with the delicacy of their organs, and serves to something extraordinary had certainly come to pass. I compensate them for some pleasures from which they are approached one of the party whom I judged most capa- obliged to abstain, and for some evils to which nature ap. ble of satisfying my curiosity, and enquired what had pears to have condemned then). Nothing is more plea. happened. Alas! replied he, with an accent of the sant than to see a pretty gourmande under arms: her deepest sorrow, Monsiegneur has been sent for to the napkin is nicely adjusted; one of her hands is rested on Council of State; he has just set out, and who knows the table; the other conveys to her mouth little morsels when he will return?' • Is that all!' I answered, with an elegantly carved, or the wing of a partridge which it is air of indifference, which was alien from my heort; necessary to pick; her eyes are sparkling, her lips glossy, " that is a matter of a quarter of an hour at the most; / her conversation agreeable, all her movements gracious; some information which they require; it is known that she is not devoid of that spice of coquetterie which wothere is an official dinner here to.day-they can have no men infuse into every thing. With so many advantages mutive for making us fast.' I spoke thus, but at the bot. she is irresistible; and Cato the Censor himself would tom of my soul I was not without inquietude, and I yield to the influence. would fain have been somewhere else. The first hour “ The penchant of the fair sex for gourmandise has in passed pretty well; the guests sat down by those with it somewhat of the nature of instinct, for gourmandise whom they had interests in cominon, exhausted the to. is favourable to beauty. A train of exact and rigid obpics of the day, and amused themselves in conjecturing servations have demonstrated that a succulent, delicate, the cause which had carried off our dear Amphitryon to and careful regimen repels to a distance, and for a length the Tuileries. By the secoud hour, some symptoms of

The friend and principal gastronomic aide-de-camp "I write," says the author in a note, “between the of Cambacères. Palais Royal and the Chaussée d'Antin.'

+ It is a strange coincidence that Goethe, in Wilhelm + No doubt Cambacères.

Meister, expresses a similar dislike to seeing women eat. VOL. XXVII. SEPTEMBER, 1835–43

Р

pp.

of time, the external appearances of old age. It gives | verted into decisive and influential victories by more brilliancy to the eyes, more freshness to the skin, pushing his advantages as he was wont.

On more support to the inuscles ; and as it is certain in phy: each of these occasions he is known to have been siology, that it is the depression of the muscles which suffering from indigestion. On the third day of causes wrinkles, those forinidable enemies of beauty, it Dresden, too, the German novelist Hoffman, who is equally true to say that, cæteris paribus, those who un.

was present in the town, asserts that the emperor derstand eating are comparatively ten years younger would have done much more than he did, but for than those who are strangers to this science. The painters and sculptors are deeply penetrated with this truth, the effects of a shoulder of muiton with onionsfor they never represent those who practise abstinence by a dish only to be paralleled by the pork chops choice or duty, as misers and anchorites, without giving which Messrs. Thurtell and Co. regaled on after them the paleness of disease, the leanness of poverty, completing the murder of their friend Mr. Weare. and the wrinkles of decrepitude.

The gifted beings predestined to gourmandise “ Again, gourmandise, when partaken, has the most are thus described :marked influence on the happiness of the conjugal state.

“They have broad faces, sparkling eyes, small fore. A wedded pair endowed with this taste have once a day, heads, short noses, full lips, and round chins. The fcat least

, an agreeable cause of meeting. Music, no males are plump, rather pretly than handsome, with a doubt, has powerful attractions for those who love it; tendency to embonpoint." It is under this exterior that but it is necessary to set about it—it is an exertion. the pleasantest guests are to be found; they accept all Moreover, one may have a cold, the music is not at hand, that is offered, cat slowly, and taste with reflection. the instruments are out of tune, one has the blue devils, They never hurry away from the places where they have or it is a day of rest. In gourmandise, on the contrary, been well treated'; and you are sure of them for the even. a common want summons the pair to table; the same in ing, because they know all the games and pastimes which clination retains them there; they naturally practise to form the ordinary accessaries of a gastronomic meeting; wards one another those little attentions, which show a

“ Those, on the contrary, to whom nature has refused wish to oblige; and the manner in which their meals are conducted enters materially into the happiness of life. an aptitude for the enjoyments of taste, have long faces, This observation, new enough in France, bad not es have always in their tournure a character of elongation.

long noses, and large eyes : whatever their height, they caped the English novelist, Fielding; and he has deve. loped it by painting in his novel of. Pamela' the different They have black and straight hair, and are, above all, de. manner in which two married couples finish their day. The women whom nature has afflicted with the same

ficient in embonpoint : it is they who invented trowsers. “ Does gourmandise become gluttony, voracity, intem- misfortune are angular, get tired at table, and live on tea perance, it loses its name, escapes from our jurisdiction, and scandab"-vol. i. p. 254. and falls within that of the moralist, who will deal with it by his precepts, or of the physician, who will cure it Out of the many modes proposed of testing this by his remedies. Gourmandise, characterised as in this theory, we shall confine ourselves to one-the article, has a name in French alone; it can be designat. judicious employment of eprouvettes :ed neither by the Latin gula, nor the English gluttony, nor the German lüsternheit; we, therefore, recommend

“We understand, by eprouvettes, dishes of acknowto those who may be tempted to translate this instructive ledged flavour, of such undoubted excellence, that their book, to preserve the substantive and simply change ihe bare appearance ought to excite in a human being, proarticle; it is what all nations have done for coquetterie perly organised, all the faculties of taste; so that all

those in whom, in such cases, we perceive neither the and every thing relating to it.”-vol. i. pp.

244-251.

flush of desire nor the radiance of ecstacy, may be justly Considering the high privileges attached to the noted as unworthy of the honours of the sitting and the character of a gourmand, we are not surprised pleasures attached to it.” at finding that it is not io be assumed at will. The next meditation accordingly is headed N'est invention, proposes eprouvettes by negation.

A distinguished gastronomer, refining on this pas gourmand qui veut, and begins as follows:- When, for example, a dish of high merit is sud

* There are individuals to whom nature has denied a denly destroyed by accident, or any other sudden refinement of organs, or a continuity of attention, with disappointment occurs, you are to note the exout which the most succulent dishes pass unobserved. pression of your guests' faces, and thus form your Physiology has already recognised the first of these va-estimate of their gastric sensibilities. We will ricties, by showing us the tongue of these unfortunates, illustrate this matter by an anecdote which our badiy provided with nerves for inhaling and appreciating author has forgotten to note. flavours. These excite in them but an obtuse sentiment; such persons are, with regard to objects of taste, what

Cardinal Fesch, a name of honour in the annals the blind are to light. The second is composed of dis- of gastronomy, had invited a large party of cleritrails, chatter-boxes, persons engaged in business, the cal magnates to dinner. By a fortunaie coinciambitious, and others, who seek to occupy themselves dence, two turbots of singular beauty arrived as with two things at once, and eat only to be filled. Such, presents to his eminence on the very morning of for instance, was Napoleon; he was irregular in his the feast. To serve both would appear ridicumeals, and ate fast and ill; but there again was to be lous, but the cardinal was, notwithstanding, most traced that absolute will which he carried into every thing anxious to have the credit of both. He imparted he did. The moment appetite was felt, it was necessary his embarrassment to his chef—“be of good faith, that it should be satisfied, and his establishment was so your eminence,” was the reply, “both shall aparranged that in all places and at all hours, chicken, pear: both shall enjoy the reception which is their cutlets, and coffee, might be forthcoming at a word.”vol. i. p. 252.

due." The dinner was served : one of the turbots The habit of eating fast and carelessly is sup- thusiastic, religious, gastronomical-it was the

relieved the soup. Exclamations unanimous, enposed to have paralysed Napoleon on two of the moment of the eprouvelte positive. The maître most critical occasions of his life,—the battles of d'hôtel advances: two attendants raise the monBorodino and Leipsic, which he might have con- ster and carry him off to cut him up; but one of

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