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for flowers over one of the more recent mounds. The whole yard is grown up to weeds and brush, and the place is desolate and dreary as it well can be; more desolate because cruel hands have broken away the corners of the great marble slab of Calhoun,- for mementos, I suppose. Time was when South Carolina guarded this grave as a holy spot. Now it lies in ruin with her chief city. When Northern life shall rebuild and revivify that city, let us pray it may also set chaste and simple beauty around this grave; for there is no need to wish the brave but bad spirit of Calhoun greater punishment than it must have in seeing the woe and waste and mourning which the war has brought the region he loved so well.

II.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS IN THE INTERIOR OF SOUTH CAROLINA.

FROME

train per day each way.

ORANGEBURG C. H., September 7, 1865.

ROM Charleston to Orangeburg Court House is seventyseven miles. Route, South Carolina Railroad. Time, seven and a half hours. Fare, five dollars. There is one Our train consisted of five freightcars, the baggage-car, a box freight-car with seats for negroes, and one passenger-coach. The down train, which we met at Branchville, where Sherman's army was to find its doom, consisted of seven freight-cars, four of which were filled with troops on the way to Charleston and home, the baggage-car, and two passenger-coaches. Our one car was uncomfortably full when we started; but only eleven of the passengers came through.

"What sort of accommodations can I get at Orangeburg?" I asked of a friend in Charleston.

12

THE SOUTH SINCE THE WAR.

"You're not going to stop up there? O you can't do it!". "Well, I shall try it, at all events."

"Don't do it; Orangeburg is just as good as any of these towns; but I advise you to shun all of 'em. The accommodations are awful: push right on to Columbia."

I was n't to be put down that way, for I had consulted a gazetteer, and learned that "Orangeburg is a pleasant and thriving town on the northeast bank of the north fork of the Edisto River. It is in the midst of a farming district, and is the centre of a large cotton trade. Population two thousand seven hundred." That was before the war, and I knew the place had been partly burned; but I felt confident that my friend exaggerated.

We left the city at seven and a half o'clock in the morning. Twenty miles out, the conductor came through the car, and collected our fares; for no tickets are sold at Charleston. In front of me sat a good-looking young woman, of about twenty-two, I judged. Hearing her very plainly say that she was going to Orangeburg, I determined to ask her about the town and its hotel accommodations. "Yes, I live there," she said.

"Is there a hotel in the town, or any place at which a person can stop?"

"O yes, there's a hotel," she said; and after a pause, she added, "but it's hardly such a place as a gentleman would choose, I think."

She spoke pleasantly enough, and, having answered my question, might have dropped the conversation; instead of which, she went on to say that persons who had occasion to stop in town for some days frequently took a room at a private house, and were much better suited than at the hotel. the thing that it I did the only thing I well could do, was perfectly natural I should do. I asked her if she could mention one or two private houses at which I might ask for accommodations, if the hotel proved unendurable.

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I fully expected that she would say her mother sometimes accommodated gentlemen; and I may as well own that I had determined what reply I should make to that announce

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Instead, however, she turned in her seat so as to face me, and said, with considerable vim, "Are you a Yankee? The question surprised me; and I simply answered, "From the North."

"By what right do you presume to speak to me, sir?" she asked, in a clear and snapping tone, that caught the ears and eyes of most of the passengers.

The strangeness of the question, no less than the remarkable change in her manner, coupled with the fact that I knew myself to be under the observation of thirty or more persons of Southern birth and feeling, embarrassed me to such degree that I could only stammer, " By the right which I supposed a gentleman always had to ask a lady a civil question."

66

'Well, sir, I don't choose to talk with you."

And she settled herself sharply into her seat, jerked her little body into a very upright position, and squared her shoulders in a very positive manner, while I sat flushed

and confused.

What should I do about it? That was a question I asked myself twenty times per hour for the next thirty miles. I was seriously inclined to apologize, though I hardly knew for what; but did n't, for I feared the little Rebel might snub me again, if I gave her an opportunity. In front of her sat a young man who had been a captain in the Rebel army. Him she soon engaged in conversation, and they cheered the slow miles with most lively chat. Surely, thought I, this is beginning the three months' journey unfortunately. I could have borne her indignation quite easily; but each individual in the car soon made me aware that my Yankee baseness was well known and thoroughly appreciated.

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The forenoon wore away, and the crazy old engine 'No' when the stage Are the a seat for Colum Little Miss was vivacious and enterdragged itself along. taining; the ex-officer was evidently in a cheerful frame of mind; I sat alternating between repentance and indignation. Finally the whistle sounded for Branchville.

Missy rose in her seat, shook out her skirts, drew on her mind you, not to the small thread glove, turned to me, and asked me if I would be good ex-officer, but to me, enough to hand out her basket for her.

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Here was another surprise. Queer creatures, these little Rebels, said I to myself, as I followed her out, carrying the not heavy basket. She did n't stop when we reached the platform of the station-house, but walked on towards its upper end; and I followed, demurely, but wonderingly. Fifteen or twenty yards away from the car, she suddenly stopped, and turned quickly upon me with "Thank you; I want to apologize to you; I was rude."

And here was the greatest surprise of all! It caught me in confusion; but I managed to say something to the effect that perhaps I was too forward in asking the question I did. "No, you were not. It was right that you should ask it, you caught and I was rude to answer you so uncivilly. But me at a disadvantage; I had n't spoken to a Federal since Sumter was taken."

66

Well, it did n't hurt you very much, did it?" said I. Whereat she laughed and I laughed, and then the engine whistled.

"I'm going to stop here a day or two," she remarked; and then, "You'll shake hands, won't you?" as I started for the car. So we shook hands, and I left her standing on the platform.

I had n't learned much about my chances for comfort in
Orangeburg, however.

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fa pesengers with barras
evend us and troubled the i
Give yer baggage here, sir."

er. Mass'. -Have verb. La-Tuk a hack up town, Mas The man I wanted. He proved in free or fourteen, who tossed my v

We got here at three o'clock in the afternoon. I was determined to stop, let the accommodations be what they

ed and strode off with both hands sw lak" to be a rickety old short-b

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ttle distrustful about the hotel; that boarders were sometimes tak opped there and asked the white hand on the piazza, if they could for about three days. She tho call her mother. So much of I could see presented an invit ailed in visions of a pleasant chan bours on the broad piazza. Pres She was a plump woman of t

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ANGEBURG.

No" when the stage agent at the
seat for Columbia.

ngers with baggage. Twenty-five
us, and troubled the hot air with
wer baggage here, sir." "Luf dis
balese toted
Mass'r." "Have yer

k a hack up town, Mass'r?"

wanted. He proved to be a strap-
urteen, who tossed my valise to the
e off with both hands swinging.

be a rickety old short-boxed spring
oard seats, on the back one of which
over both being a canvas supported
corner of the box. This establish-
scrawny lame mule, and we were
complishing the half-mile, which the
hotel.

al about the hotel; and learning from s were sometimes taken at another and asked the white girl of fifteen, piazza, if they could give me meals three days. She thought they could, other. So much of the house and e presented an inviting appearance, ms of a pleasant chamber and many broad piazza. Presently "mother" -plump woman of thirty-three, per

a couple of rooms, and we sometimes ," said she, answering the question I

ee or four days in town, and had much t private house than at the hotel," I

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