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AND BY WATER.

eren.

r. Doesborgh. (Inn : Heerenloge- the most flourishing Hanse Towns ; ment.) A fortified town at the con. it is now utterly without commerce. fluence of the old and new Yssel, 2540 The Town-hall, a genuine Gothic buildinhab., was taken from the Spaniards ing, with statues of Charlemagne, Alex. and pillaged, 1585, by the English, ander, and of the Cardinal Virtues; and under the Earl of Leicester.

2 fine churches, bespeak its former prosl. Dieren : near this is the curious perity. Count Horn, beheaded by old moated house of Middaghten. Alva, was buried here.

r. Zutphen. (Inns : Keyzerskroon ; A Steamer goes every day except Zwaan.) A strong fortress and an- Saturday to Amsterdam : in summer cient town, 10,500 inhab., at the junc- at į past 1, in correspondence with the tion of the Berckel with the Yssel. last train to Rotterdam,

The chief Protestant Church (of St. Walburga) is a fine Gothic building

ROUTE 13. (1105); its tower has been rebuilt

ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY BREDA, since 1600, when the original one was destroyed by lightning. Within, are monuments of the Counts of Zutphen, 12° posts=62 English miles. Diover one of which is hung a Gothic ligences daily, in 12 hours. chandelier of iron gilt, and a modern Steamers daily, in 10 hours, by monument to the family Van Heck. Dort, Fort Batz, and the Scheldt.

There is a curious Gothic font (See p. 92.) of copper, and the bas-reliefs on the In travelling by land 3 ferries repulpit merit notice. In the church is quire to be crossed ; at Rotterdam over a library of old books, many of them the Maas, at Dort over the Merwe, fastened to the shelves by chains. and at Moerdijk over the Hollands

The Roman Catholics and the Ana- Diep. — The ferry boats are steamers, baptists have churches here.

and are very well managed. Steamers The Chimes are placed in the tower also ply daily direct from Rotterdam of the Weighing House: there is to Dort and Moerdijk. another large square tower called Dro. 2) Dort. In Route 12., p. 86. genass.

11 At Willemsdorp, the borders of It was on the battle-field of Warns the Hollands-Diep are reached, an arm feld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, of the sea, rather than a river, which that the gallant Sir Philip Sidney re

takes 20 minutes to cross to Moerdijk. ceived his death wound, Ser 22. Noordhaven is sometimes chosen as the 1586, after an action in which the place of disembarkation: it is 3 posts English had signally defeated the ve- from Breda. teran Spaniards under the Marquess 2 BREDA. Inns: H. de Flandres, of Guasto. Stretched on the ground, very good: Goude Leeuw, or Golden bleeding and parched with thirst, the Lion : Couronne, comfortable. English hero displayed the well-known Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk instance of humanity, in desiring that and Aa, whose waters, together with the cup of water intended for him the surrounding marshes, render it alshould be given to the dying soldier most inaccessible to an enemy, but very at his side.

unhealthy r. Deventer. In Route 8.

The principal Protestant Church has r. Katerveer. Coaches go hence to a lofty and graceful Gothic tower, inZwolle (p. 77.),

jured by being surmounted by a Dutch 1. Kampen (Inn, Portheine’s, called bulbous spire. Within it is the Tomb the Dom of Cologne, may be recom- of Count Engelbrecht II. of Nassau, famended). This sea-port on the Zuider vourite general of the Emp. Charles V., Zee lies at the mouth of the Yssel, and his wife, attributed to Mich. Angelo, here crossed by a fine bridge. It has It resembles in its plan the monument about 8000 inhab. Anciently one of in Westminster Abbey of Sir F. de Vere.

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Their effigies, formed of Italian ala- stocked model room, and a small mubaster, repose upon elaborately carved seum of arms. (See Quar. Rev. No. mats; while 4 statues of Julius Cæsar, | 166. p. 441.) Regulus, and 2 other classic heroes, in Breda was taken from the Spaniards, a half-kneeling posture, support on their in 1590, by means of a singular stratagem shoulders a table of stone, on which lies concerted between a brave veteran capthe armour of the prince carved in tain of Prince Maurice's army, named marble. M. Angelo might have made a Harauguer, and one Adrian Vanden, sketch of the design; but the awkward berg, owner of a barge which supplied pose of some of the figures, the feeble- the garrison with turf for fuel. On ness of the anatomical details, the mean- Thursday, Feb. 26., Harauguer, and ness and angularity of the drapery, and 80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, the minute finish of some the acces

and were carefully covered over with a sories, prove that M. Angelo could have cargo of turf. Though the boat had had no hand in the execution. There not many miles to go from the place are some other monuments which are where it was laden, it was so much iminteresting memorials of the days of peded by contrary winds, and by the Spanish rule. Their ornaments are frost which had covered the water with elegant, and in plataresco style: one of a thick coat of ice, that the third day Count Henry of Nassau, with kneeling passed before it arrived within 4 league figures; another, bearing the date 1536, of the town. To add to the perils of to the memory of the Sieur de Borgnival, the crew the vessel sprung a leak; the chief engineer to Charles V. Behind soldiers stood up to their knees in water; the high altar is an altar tomb of the and one of them, named Matthias Helt, Knight of Renesse and his Lady. At began to cough so violently that for fear the end of the N. aisle is a fine monu. | he should cause their detection he enment to some of the Aschendaal family, treated his companions to run him with a vigorous and excellent relief of through with his sword. Luckily they the Last Judgment. Many of these were not rigorously examined by the monuments have been injured by vio- guard, and the sacrifice of the brave lence. In the choir is a highly orna- soldier was not required. It was not mented brass, commemorating William till midnight on the 3d of March (5 of Gaellen, a Dean of the Chapter; days after they had embarked) that the and curious and well executed carvings sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, in wood, representing monks in ludi- and the boat was dragged in through crous attitudes, intended to satirise the the ice by the very, garrison who were vices of the clergy. There is also a so soon to suffer from its entrance. They very fine brașs font, the cover of which carried off so much of the turf for their is raised by a crane.

use, that the boards which covered the The old castle was built, 1350, by concealed band were nearly laid bare; Count Henry of Nassau; the modern but, by another piece of good fortune, Château by William, afterwards the they did not inspect the cargo very Third of England. It is a square sur- minutely; and Vandenberg, with conrounded by the waters of the Merk. siderable cleverness, contrived by his Here is a military academy for infantry, wit and jokes to turn away their attencavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable tion, and lulling all suspicion, finished of accommodating 192 cadets. It is by making them drunk. As soon as exclusively from this academy that the they were asleep, Captain Harauguer Dutch arıny is now officered. Here and his soldiers issued forth from their are good stables and an ample stud, miserable retreat; the sentinels were a swimming school and an extensive killed, and the rest of the garrison, plateau, with cannon of every calibre, terrified at the sudden and unexpected which supplies the means of drill ap- | attack, abandoned the castle without plicable to each branch of the service. even the precaution of breaking down It contains also a good library, a well- the drawbridge leading from it into the The voyage

town, which was entered a few days, now taken by the new iron boats beafterwards by Prince Maurice and his tween Antwerp and Rotterdam is 7 army. After several fruitless atteinpts hours; the return passage is 2 hours on the part of the Spaniards to regain longer, as the tide does not serve to Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, pass the banks, which it does in going, who burnt the famous barge which had and therefore a circuit is obliged to contributed to its capture by the Dutch be made to avoid thein. in 1590, and which had been carefully is preferable to the land journey in fine preserved by them. The surrender of weather ; but the broad estuaries divid. Breda to Spinola has been commemo- ing the islands which form the province rated by Velazquez in his finest picture, of Zealand are nearly as much agitated “ Las Lanzas," now in the Madrid as the open sea by storms. gallery. Span. Hdbk., 752., 1st. ed. After quitting Dort (R. 12.) the

Charles II. resided at Breda during vessel threads a narrow channel, having part of the time of his exile from Eng- the appearance of an artificial canal, land.

called Dordsche Kill, leading into the About 24 m. from Breda is Bois-le-duc wide estuary of the Hollands- Diep, and (den Bosch or Hertogenbosch), a for. Volke Rak, arms of the Maas, flowing tress and chief town of N. Brabant, with between the Islands of Zealand. The 21,000 inhab. (Inn, Goude Leeuw.) places passed on the voyage from Dort The Church of St. John (1312) is one are S' Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in fortress of Willemstad, and forts RuyHolland. It is well preserved, and has ter and Vostgenstplaatz, 2 block-houses double aisles and apsidal chapels (date covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by 1260—1312), an earlier chapel at the the French to defend the entrance of N. W. end, and a Lady.chapel N. of the Hollands-Diep against the English, the choir. The Stadhuis is surmounted Philipsland, and Stavenis. On the l. by a tower containing a fine set of lies Tholen, and on the r. the island of chimes. , way to Bois-le-duc is Tilburg Schowen, with its port, Ziericksee, (Inn, Goude Leeuw) — a town of memorable for the daring exploit of 11,700 inhab. possessing extensive the Spaniards, under Requesens, 1575, cloth manufactories.

who forded the channel called Keeten, 2 Grootzundert. The last place in by a passage 6 miles long, and before Holland : examination of passports here untried, wading for the most part up by the Dutch and at West-Wesel (custom to their necks in water, and in the face house) by the Belgian authorities. A of a fleet of boats manned by the Zeadesolate tract of heath forms the border landers, who annoyed the Spaniards by land of the two countries. At Hoogh- a deadly fire, and actually cut off their straeten, a few miles E. of West-Wesel, rear-guard. They thus gained possesso called from the Roman high-way sion of the island, and soon after of which passed through it, a handsome Ziericksee. At Zijp a carriage is staChurch contains monuments to the tioned to convey passengers to or from noble family of La Laing, one of whom Ziericksee (Inn, Hof van Holland), built the steeple, 364 ft. high, in 1546 less than an hour's drive; its square

and 12 painted windows. The tower is conspicuous from the steamer. château of the La Laings is now the Passengers bound for Flushing (R. Poor-House (Dépôt de la Mendicité.) 18.), Middleburg, and Goes, are set 1 Gooring.

down at Jerensdam. Emerging from 11 Breschat.

the narrow channel of Tholen, the 11 ANTWERP. In Route 22. steamer calls at the Jetty of the town

and fortress of 2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. land), one of the strongest places in

Bergen op Zoom (Inn, Hof van HolSteamers daily in summer. The Holland, considered the masterpiece distance is about 80 miles. The time in the art of fortification of Coehorn,

water.

tween

7500 inhab., situated in a marshy, the edge of the extensive sandbank country which can easily be laid under called Verdronken, or Drowned Land,

because overwhelmed by an inroad of Among the numerous sieges and the sea, and thus cut off from the island attacks which it has endured, the most of Zuid Beveland. We enter the interesting to the English is the attempt river Scheldt abreast of Fort Batz. by Gen. Graham to carry the place by The description of the voyage up the storm, on the night of the 8th of March, Scheldt to Antwerp will be found in 1814, which was nearly successful. | Route 18. Two of the four attacking columns Travellers going from Antwerp to succeeded in establishing themselves on | Rotterdam, and wishing to visit Breda, the ramparts, with very triling loss. should land at Bergen op Zoom, drive No. 1, the left column, attacked be- to Breda, and sleep there, and rejoin

the Antwerp and Waterport the steamer at Moerdyk the next day. gates; No. 2 attacked the right of the (From Moerdyk to Dort in steamer New Gate ; No. 3 was destined only if hour, Dort to Rotterdam 11 hour.) to draw attention by a false attack near From Antwerp to Fort Batz 1 hour, a the Steinbergen gate ; No. 4, the right delay of about 1 hour at Fort Batz on column, attacked at the entrance of the account of custom-houses: thence to harbour, which could be forded at low Bergen 1 hour. Bergen op Zoom is a water. They were ultimately repulsed, bad place to land at in wet weather; a by a bold attack of the garrison, with long jetty and dyke has to be traversed very severe loss. — The names of the before reaching the town. From BerBritish officers who fell on this occasion gen op Zoom to Breda is a drive of may be seen in the church, recorded on 4 hours: there is an intermediate post a monumental tablet erected by their station at Rosendaal ; but the landlord brother officers. In the great Protes of the Hof v. Holland, who is the tant Ch. is the tomb of Lord Edward postmaster, will furnish a carriage and Bruce, killed in a bloody duel, 1613, horses which easily perform the whole with Lord Sackville, to fight which distance. There is much heather they came over from England. (Guar- land between Bergen op Zoom and dian, Nos. 129. 133.) The church, Breda. which has suffered greatly, is the rem

If the traveller should not find the rant of a fine building.

steamer at Moerdyk, he may cross to A line of posts and branches of trees Willemsdorp by the steam-ferry, and point out to the pilot the very narrow proceed thence to Dort, where steamers channel called het Kreek Bak, close to going to Rotterdam are easily found.

SECTION II.

BELGIUM.

INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION,

18. Passports. — 19. Money. — 20. Posting. - 21. Diligences, - Hired Carriages,

- Barrières, --- Roads. - 22. Railroads. - 23. Inns. — 24. General View of Belyium. - 25. Belgian Cities and Architecture. - 26. Chimes ( Carillons). 27. Works of Art: Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens.

ROUTES.

ROUTE

PAGE

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PAGE 15. Calais to Brussels by Lille RailwAY

107 16. Calais to Courtrai, by Dunkirk and Ypres

116 17. Calais to Ostend or Bruges - 119 18. London to Antwerp by the Schelde

120 19. Ghent to Brussels by Alost 124 20. London or Dover to Ostend 124 21. Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Ter

monde, and Mechlin
RAILWAY

126
21 A. Bruges to Courtrai-Rail-
WAY

142 22. Ghent to Antwerp RAIL

143 22 A. Antwerp to Turnhout, and

the Belgian Pauper Co-
lonies

158 23. Antwerp to Brussels by Mech. lin- RAILWAY

159 24. Brussels to Liége by Waterloo

and Namur.- Descent of
the Meuse to Maestricht 168

ROUTE
25. Liége to Aix-la-Chapelle by

Verviers, and visit to Spa
- RAILWAY

184 26. Brussels to Liége by Louvain RAILWAY

189 27. Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle by Maestricht

193 28. Brussels to Namur by Hal,

Braine le Comte, and

Charleroi - RAILWAY 195 28 A. Charleroi to Morialmé RAILWAY

195 29. Namur to Luxemburg and Treves

196 30. Namur to Dinant and Givet by the Meuse

197 31. The Ardennes, Dinant to

Hans sur Lesse, St. Hubert,
and Bouillon

199 32. Brussels to Mons and Valen

ciennes, on the way to
Paris - RAILWAY

201

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WAY

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The Belgian minister in London issues passports to all who may require them, gratis, at his house, 51. Portland Place, between 11 and 3. A passport may be obtained from the Belgian Consul in London (between the hours of 12 and 4 only), upon payment of 5 shillings.

Excepting in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports are now seldom required by the police in Belgium. More strictness is observed since the political events of 1848. The under-functionaries of the Belgian police, and custom-house officers, often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dilatoriness, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and contrasting singularly with the invariable politeness and punctuality of similar officers in Prussia and Austria.

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