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While they last, and during the week preceding their commencement, the inns in the town are thronged to excess, so that it is difficult to obtain accommodation. The articles exposed for sale are, almost without exception, inferior to English manufactures, but at the same time cheaper; about one-fifth of the booths are pipeshops!

The Jews, who form no inconsider- | formerly. able portion of the community here, have till very lately been treated with great illiberality by the Free Town. The gates of the quarter to which they were exclusively confined were closed upon them at an early hour every night, after which ingress and egress were alike denied. This arbitrary municipal regulation was enforced, until Marshal Jourdan, in bombarding the town (1796), knocked down the gate of the Jews' quarter, along with many houses near it, and they have not been replaced since. Another tyrannical law, not repealed until 1834, restricted the number of marriages among the Hebrews in the town to 13 yearly. The Synagogue, an old and curious Gothic building, is situated in the Judengasse. The Jews are no longer compelled to live in this street, but may hire or purchase houses in other quarters.

The principal business carried on at Frankfurt is banking and jobbing in the funds. A new Exchange (Börse) has been built on the Neue Kräme, behind the Römer. It is in the style which at Munich is called Byzantine; and built of a brown stone, with stripes of red stone arranged in the fashion of the cathedral at Sienna. The architect is Stüler, of Berlin; the statues in front represent Hope and Prudence, the quarters of the Globe, Commerce, &c. The interior is a curious mongrel style of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. The Braunfels, which formerly served that purpose, is an old building in which the Empr. Maximilian and Gustavus Adolphus resided: it is filled with traders at the fair time.

Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple place, or entrepôt, for central Europe, receiving the productions and manufac. tures of all parts of the world, to distribute them in detail over the whole Continent. In 1836, it acceded to the Prussian custom-house league (§ 32.), which may perhaps influence the extent of its commercial transactions in future.

The Frankfurt Fairs are held at Easter, and 3 weeks before Michaelmas They are less important than

The territory of Frankfurt does not much exceed 10 Eng. square miles in extent; its limits are marked by ancient watch-towers erected on the high roads.

The Germanic Diet used to meet at the residence of the Austrian ambassador, who was its president, in the building, formerly the Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis.

Ministers from Great Britain, the United States, and almost all the states of Europe, reside here; and travellers going to Austria or Italy should not neglect this opportunity of having their passport properly visé.

As the Passport Offices are only open a few hours in the day, generally 2, 3, or 4 hours in the morning, and all close at noon; and as the applicants are often very numerous, no time should be lost in sending the passport to be visé. The English P. O. is open 91-12; the U. States, 11-1; Austrian and Prussian, 10-12, and 3-5 P.M.; Bavarian, 9-11.

N. B. No passport can be visé until it has received the signature of the representative of the country to which the bearer of the passport belongs.

The office of British Consul is most worthily filled by Mr. Koch, one of the most eminent citizens, bankers, and Rhine wine exporters in Frankfurt. His house of business is No. 6. am Salzhaus, corner of the Rossmarkt. Of the multitude of English travellers who annually visit Frankfurt, there are few who cannot bear personal testimony to the urbanity and kindness of Mr. Koch.

The English Service is performed once every Sunday at the French Ch. in the Allée, or in the Lutheran Ch. called Weisse Frauenkirche at 11 by the chaplain of the Embassy.

English Physician, Sir Alexander Dow- | nie: Dr. Spies is highly spoken of.

The Theatre is very respectable in its orchestra and performers; it is usually open 5 days in the week: it begins at 6, and ends at 9. There is a summer theatre at Bockenheim, a village near Frankfurt on the N. W., and the first station on the Frankfurt and Cassel Railway (Route 70.).

The Post-office is No. 52. in the Zeil, a few doors from the Hôtel de Russie, on the same side of the street.

The Casino is one of the best clubs (§ 44.) in Germany: nearly 100 dif. ferent papers are taken in; among them most of the French papers, Galignani's Messenger, the Times, and one or two other English Journals. Strangers are liberally admitted upon the introduction of a member, and even ladies on certain days.

The Caffé Milani, in the Rossmarkt, next to the Hotel d'Angleterre, is on the plan of French and Italian Caffés, and has a room for ladies, where no smoking is allowed.

Baths.

Grebs Baths, warm, cold, vapour, &c., Main Kay, J 45., close to the Leonhards Thor and St. Leonhard's Church, are good.

The shop of M. Jügel, the bookseller, opposite the great guard-house, is a pleasant lounge. Besides guide-books, maps, and views likely to be useful and interesting to travellers, there are usually some very tolerable pictures, or other objects of art, for sale here. Mr. Jügel is the Galignani of Frankfurt; he speaks English, and is very civil and obliging in furnishing all sorts of information to strangers.

Mr. Wilman's (67. Zeil) and Mr. Schmerber's (opposite the Hotel de Russie) shops possess similar advantages.

Bohemian glass may be had at Tacchi's, No. 44. in the Zeil, and at Vogelsang and Müller's, Liebfrauenberg, G 53., who have a manufactory near Strakonitz.

The reliefs cut in stag's horn (Hirschhorn), after the manner of a cameo, are very pretty. They are made in the neighbouring village of Bocken

heim. They may be had at Böhler's shop, 26. Zeil, and Bing's, also in the Zeil, and elsewhere. The bronze copy of the Ariadne of Dannecker is to be had here, and at Ihlée's, 63. Zeil.

Pillot and Sohn, 35. Zeil, opposite the Hotel de Russie, is a good shop for canvass work in wool, and embroidery (Stramin and Stickerey).

Furs may be bought good and at moderate prices at Frankfurt. T. Roose and Sohn, 14. Catharinen pforte, at the corner of the Bleidenstrasse, and the Kornmarkt, keep a good shop.

Mr. S. Gands, 200. Mainzer Gasse, is recommended to the editor as a teacher of German. He is a native of Hanover.

At Jaeger's shop (Jaeger 'sche Buchhandlung), on the Dom Platz, opposite the N. door of the Cathedral, one of the oldest geographical establishments in Germany, a large assortment of maps, geographical works, &c. is kept. -G. B. G.

J. J. Weiler, on the Wollgraben (Let. A. No. 36.), not far from the bridge, is a respectable money-changer.

Public Gardens. The agreeable belt of gardens which encircles the town of Frankfurt is one of its most pleasing and ornamental features. No stranger should omit to visit them They occupy the site of the ancient fortifications, which had proved, on several occasions, a detriment rather than an advantage to the town, by subjecting it to the misery of sieges and bombardments.

At the W. extremity of Frankfurt on the bank of the Main, there are public gardens, called Mainlust, where a band plays in the afternoon.

The Old and New Cemeteries, about a mile from the Friedburg Gate, are worth visiting ($45.). The spot commands a charming view of Frankfurt and the Taunus. Among the monuments under the arcade at the upper end, that of the Bethman family, with beautiful bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen, is well worth notice. They are seen by looking through the door of open work at the N. end of the arcade. A costly

monument has been set up to the Countess Reichenbach, who was married to the late Elector of Hesse. Sömmering the naturalist, and Feuerbach the lawyer, are buried here.

3. to

Many pleasant Excursions may be made from Frankfurt. 1. To Wiesbaden and the Brunnen of Nassau by railway (Rte. 95.). 2. To the Taunus mountains by railway as far as Höchst and Soden (Rte. 97.). Homburg and its splendid new Kurhaus. Omnibus 8 or 10 times a day (Rte. 97.). To Offenbach, by railway, 2 m. above Frankfurt on the left bank of the Main, a flourishing, industrious town, where good travelling carriages are made, cheaper than the English, but not quite so good.

The Prince of Thurn and Taxis enjoys the right of managing the Posts of some of the minor German states. His head post-office is at Frankfurt.

Eilwagen (Office, Zeil, behind the post-office)-daily to Coblenz in 12 hrs.,-to Weilburg in 7 hrs.,-to Siegen by Wetzlar in 14 hrs., -to Würzburg in 13 hrs., Nuremberg in 25 hrs., to Ratisbon in 38 hrs., - to Paris by Metz by malleposte in 45 hrs., Homburg, almost every hour.

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ROUTE 96.

GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, AND DESCENT OF THE LAHN, BY WEILBURG, LIMBURG,

AND EMS.

14 Germ. m.= 60 Eng. m.

A schnellpost daily in 134 hrs. Giessen lies on the high road from Frankfurt to Cassel. (Route 70. p. 387.)

Our road follows the left bank of the Lahn. There is a splendid view from the hill over which the road approaches. 2 Wetzlar. Inn, Herzogliches Haus; tolerable, and civil people. This was anciently a free Imperial town, and seat of the Imperial Chamber from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace of Paris, it, together with the isolated territory attached to it, was made over to the King of Prussia. It is old and badly built, but is charmingly situated in the Lahn valley; it contains about 5500 inhab., and has a Cathedral or Dom, a fine Gothic edifice, built at 3 periods; it is amicably divided between Catholics and Protestants. The interior is curious, the monuments are well preserved. Wetzlar derives some celebrity from being the scene of Göthe's romance, "The Sorrows of Werther," founded on events which actually occurred here. The hero was a Legations Secretary, named. Jerusalem: he is buried in the churchyard outside the Waldbach Gate. In front of that gate is Charlotte's Fountain, and the house of her father, whose name was Amtmann Buff. The author has described, under the name of Walheim, the village of Garbenheim, 2 m. distant. The French General Hoche died at Wetzlar, of consump tion. 2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic church of Altenberg, recently restored, originally attached to a convent. It contains curious monuments.

The next stage lies at some distance from the river, passing the town of Braunfels; on the height above is the Château of the mediatised Prince of Solms Braunfels. Immediately beyond it the Prussian territory ends, and that of Nassau begins.

3 Weilburg (Inns: Schwan, good,

re

3 Limburg (Inns: Nassauer Hof; a new hotel, to be called the Bellevue, September 1849), a very ancient town on the Lahn. The superb Cathedral of St. George towers pre-eminently above the other buildings. It was on

with a fine view. Traube.) is beauti-road, is bad. A little above Limburg on fully situated on a high bank above the the rt. bank of the Lahn, is the old ch. river, being built on a peninsula, which of Dietkirchen, standing on a rock, and is joined to the left bank by a narrow containing bones of St. Matthew and neck of land, and has à Castle, an- St. Lubentius, as it is reported. ciently the residence of the Ducal family of Nassau Weilburg, moved since the extinction of the line of Nassau Usingen to Biberich. The gardens extend down to the river. The Dukes of Nassau are buried in a church here. In the vicinity there is an ex-ginally founded 909, but the existing tensive park. The view of Weilburg is surpassed by few scenes in N. Germany, the principal features being the old castle on a rock, the bridge, and the winding river. The hill on which Weilburg stands has been perforated by a Tunnel for the passage of the waters of the Lahn. It is lighted with gas, and serves as a canal. The Lahn is to be made navigable as far as Marburg, at the expense of Prussia, Nassau, Hesse-Cassel, and Hesse-Darmstadt. It was at Weilburg, that in 1836, Mr. Hollond, M. P. for Hastings, Mr. Monk Mason, and Mr. C. Green, descended in the "Nassau Balloon," having made the voyage from London to this place in 18 hours, starting at 13 P. M., and arriving here at 74 on the following morning.

edifice is not older than the end of the 12th or beginning of the 13th century, Its architecture is particularly interesting, as it exhibits the latest character of the Byzantine style, mixed with the commencement of the pointed Gothe It contains several monuments of princes of Nassau, and a very old font, but is sadly disfigured by whitewash.

The views of the winding Lahn from this church and from the picturesque bridge, and that of the church itse from a mill on the bank of the river, are very fine. The MS. called Lin burg Chronicle is one of the oldest sources of German history. A boat may be hired at Limburg to descend the river to Ems and Coblenz. Limburg is con nected by good macadamised roads with Frankfurt, 83 Germ. m. (Rte. 45a); [There is a road hence by Usingen, and Wiesbaden, 6 Germ. m. Nieder

over the Taunus, and down upon Homburg to Frankfurt, 8 Germ. m.= =38 Eng. m. A public conveyance runs daily on this road. The road between Weilburg and Usingen passes through some fine forests, mostly belonging to

Selters is about 9 m. off (p. 500.).

Eilwagen to

hrs..

Cologne daily, in 15 - Wiesbaden daily, in 5 hrs. At Limburg the high road crosses and quits the Lahn. 3 Montabauer (Schmidts Inn),

the Duke of Nassau, whose park is "very picturesque town, has an old castle, At Usingen is a palace be- which originally belonged to the Elec

passed.

longing to the Duke. From the top

tor of Treves.".

-T. This stage

lies

of the hill, before descending into Hom-through pretty country; a magnificent burg, there is a fine view of the Oden- view of Ehrenbreitstein is obtained from the last hill, before reaching 3 COBLENZ (Route 37. p. 279.).

wald, as far as the Duchy of Baden.].

This part of the valley of the Lahn is picturesque, enclosed by wooded hills, and is interesting to the geologist. It was formerly partitioned out

The Lahn between Limburg and Ems is very picturesque, and well between the 4 reigning houses of worth exploring; but the road along a

stein.

The post road from Weilburg not practicable for English carriages.

to Limburg is for the most part uninteresting that passing by the ancient town and castle of Runkel, being a cross

Adler.

Diez, 3 m. from Limburg.-Inn, Hof von Holland; good and clean; Is romantically situated on the Lahn,

which is crossed by a bridge 800 years old, overlooked by the castle of its ancient counts, built on the summit of a rock, now the principal prison of Nassau. Not far off is Oranienstein, a château of the D. of Nassau, not inhabited nor remarkable.

At Diez, a good boat with 2 rowers may be hired for 6 or 7 fl. to descend the Lahn to Ems. The river winds so much as to make the distance nearly double that by the high road, and the passage to take up hours. It is not unlike the Wye, though at first the scenery exhibits a sameness of beauty, the hills on both sides being covered with wood, and not distinguished by much variety of shape; but the numerous villages and ruined castles on its banks contribute to embellish the views. A few miles below Diez is the mineral spring of Fachingen on the left, and, about as far again lower down, Geilnau on the right bank of the Lahn. Many thousand bottles of the water are exported annually: it is very like that of Selters. At a little distance from the Lahn, on its left bank, half-way between Fachingen and Geilnau, are the castles of Balduinstein, built 1325, by a bishop of Treves; and Schaumburg, the residence of the princes of Anhalt-Bernburg. A mile beyond Geilnau, and about 14 from Ems, is Holzappel (Inn, Bär), a small and uninteresting_town, surrounded by fine mountains. On the road not far from it, close to the river, stand the ruins of the castle of Laurenburg, the original residence of the Nassau family, who bore the name of Counts of Laurenburg down to the middle of the 12th cent.

rt. Further on are the village of Obernhof, and the small but very perfect old castle of Langenau, with its walls, gates, towers, and external fortifications complete, but filled with vile modern buildings, seated on a flat which seems to have been once an island.

1. The ruined Abbey of Arnstein, standing conspicuous on the side of a mountain, opposite Langenau, presents a splendid and picturesque front to the gaze of the passenger. It was the

feudal seat of a long line of counts, the last of whom, Louis of Arnstein, having no son, married and portioned off his 7 daughters, dividing among them a part of his estates; then converting his castle into a convent, he endowed it with the rest of his property, and finally became a monk himself. It is still inhabited. There are no remains of the original castle. The Church is entire; its 2 towers date from 1359.

When the Lahn is low, it is fordable opposite to Arnstein; at other times those who come from Nassau must cross by the ferry at Obernhof, higher up.

By a

The road from Diez to Ems, though bad, is practicable for post carriages, and is very picturesque. It does not, however, follow the course of the Lahn until a short distance from Obernhof, about 2 leagues from Nassau. steep ascent it reaches Holzappel; thence, through a beech forest, it passes above Obernhof, and mounting to a great height, occupies the narrow neck of an isthmus between the deep glens of the Lahn and Weinährbach. Next passing Langenau and Arnstein it reaches

3 Nassau (Route 95.).
1 Ems (p. 493.).

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BADEN TO FRANKFURT, BY EPPSTEIN,
KÖNIGSTEIN, AND HOMBURG.

The E. extremity of the Taunus chain of hills, though little known to English tourists, will well repay those who may be tempted to explore it. The district here referred to might be nearly included within a triangle drawn between the towns of Wiesbaden, Frankfurt, and Homburg. This part of the chain presents in its narrow pas toral valleys, clear purling streams, and wooded heights, scenery of the utmost beauty, differing from that nearer to the Rhine in its character of sylvan solitude, and perhaps surpassing it in variety,

Roads. - The post road from Wies baden to Frankfurt passes considerably to the S. of these hills; but that from

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