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the rt. bank of the Main, and is under a distinct jurisdiction. Immediately above the old Bridge over the Main, which is crowned by a modern statue of Charlemagne, on the side of Sachsenhausen, stands the ancient Palace of the Knights of the Teutonic Order.
Close to the bridge are remains of the old palace of the Counts of Isenberg; one side is of good Elizabethangothic.
There are two institutions for the encouragement of arts and sciences, which reflect the highest credit upon the town of Frankfurt.
1. The Stadel Museum of Pictures, a handsome building, in the Neue Main zer Strasse, is named after its founder, a citizen of Frankfurt, who bequeathed his collections of paintings, drawings, and engravings to the city, along with a large sum, amounting to about 83,000l., for building and maintaining a Public Gallery and School of Art. The sum annually available for the purchase of pictures is about 800 guineas. The secretary is M. Passavant, the biographer of Raphael.
The collection is open to the public gratis, from 10 to 1, daily, except Saturday, when it is open to strangers passing through, from 11 to 1.
2nd Room (Grosser Saal.). Here are the following works of modern German artists: 96. Hübner-Job with his Friends, 99. Lessing-Huss before the Council of Constance. Very carefully composed and elaborately finished; losing, indeed, much of its power by its minute finish. 100. Achenbach - Storm on the coast of Norway. 103. Rethel I Daniel in the Lions' Den. 104. Schnorr-The Good Samaritan. 106. Lessing - Ezzelin in Prison, after the Battle of Cassano.
3rd Room. Overbeck. The Triumph of Christianity in the Arts. Considered a chef-d'œuvre of the artist: all the heads are portraits of persons renowned as authors, divines, or artists. In this production of elaborate pedantry the traveller will easily discover how much the artist has borrowed from Raphael's School of Athens and Dispute of the Sacrament. 111. A remarkable altar-piece, consisting of a centre and two wings, representing the events of the Crucifixion, by a Cologne artist of the beginning of the 15th century; formerly attributed to Schoreel. In this room are some curious works of the early German School, and a por trait by Q. Metsys, 138., erroneously called Knipperdolling.
4th Room. Dutch and Flemish Schools.
A poor collection. 186. Hobbema Low-Landscape. 194. Ruysdael - Storm clearing off. Wood and Waterfall. 201. Wynants- Landscape. 221. Rubens-Portrait of his infant Daughter, who afterwards became a nun.
The pictures which it contains consist of some curious specimens of the early masters of Germany and the Countries, of a not very numerous or remarkable collection of Dutch and Italian masters, and of some of the best works of the modern German School. The following are perhaps the most worthy of notice:
1st Room. Italian School. 1. Peru
gino-Virgin and Child. 18. Called a Raphael, but certainly not one, as the author of the catalogue allows-Virgin and Child. 19. Gio. Bellini - Holy Family. 399. Moretto-Virgin and Child, with the four Fathers of the Latin Church. (From Cardinal Fesch's collection cost 30,000 fl.) 400. Paris Bordone-Sketch for his great picture at Venice, representing the Fisherman presenting St. Mark's Ring to the Doge. (HANDBOOK FOR N. ITALY, p. 359.)
In the room beyond the last there is nothing worthy of remark, but in the next are the following works: — 344. Schadow The Wise and Foolish Vir. gins. 347-356. Steinle - 10 coloured cartoons, for the frescoes at the Castle of Rheineck (p. 275.). 357-361. Schnorr
Cartoons of subjects from Orlando Furioso. 362–371. Ramboux loured drawings from the Divina Comedia. In a room opening out of the 3rd room, and called the Fresco-Saal, is a fresco by Veit, representing the introduction of the arts into Germany by Christianity, with two allegorical figures of Italy and Germany at the
sides. Here are casts of the latest of Ghiberti's two celebrated bronze doors of the Baptistery, Florence; and of parts of the other, and of that by Andrea Pisano; and a singular and very remarkable composition in terra cotta, representing the Virgin and Saints, by Giorg. Andrioli, 1511, from the Ch. of the Madonna del Rosario at Gubbio, in the province of Urbino. The very interesting collection of engravings contains some etchings by Flemish masters not to be met with in any other cabinet.
2. The Senkenberg Museum of Natural History (close to the picturesque Eschenheim Gate, a building of the 14th cent.) contains very good collections in the various branches of natural history, tolerably well arranged. Many rare specimens, not to be found in other museums, were brought to Europe by the enterprising traveller Rüppel, a native of Frankfurt, from Egypt, Nubia, the shores of the Red Sea, and Abyssinia. They are the result of several arduous and interesting journeys undertaken by him, at his own expense, for the benefit of this museum. A small annuity has been settled on him for life by the city of Frankfurt since his return. There is a small ethnological collection at the top of the house.
The Museum is opened to the pub. lic gratis, twice a week, for 2 hours; Wednesday, 2 to 4; Friday, 11 to 1. Members have access every afternoon. A small fee to the keeper will procure admission for a stranger, from 8 to 1 and 3 to 6 on other days, to this collection.
Just outside the Friedburg Gate stands the monument erected by the King of Prussia to the memory of the Hessian soldiers killed in the siege of Frankfurt, 1792.
The Public Library, in a handsome building, facing the Main, close to the Ober Main Thor, is a useful collec tion of books. In the entrance-hall is a marble statue of Göthe, by Marchesi. In a room on the left, on entering, is the Prehnisches Gemälde Cabinet, a collection of small pictures of small merit, of various schools, bequeathed to the city in 1834, by Bürger Prehn. It is open to the public, Tuesday and Thursday, 11 to 12. The Library possesses a few curiosities, among which are portraits of Luther (by L. Cranach ?), and of his wife Cath. a Bora; 2 pair of Luther's shoes, two missals with curious old carvings in ivory on the covers, and a fine copy of the first edition of the Bible printed by Faust, at Mentz. The Library is open, Tuesday and Thursday, 11 to 12; Wednesday and Friday, 2 to4
St George's Hospital, behind the Library, is a handsome new building, and a well-regulated establishment.
The poet Göthe was born at Frankfurt, in the house marked F. No. 74, in the Hirsch-graben, 1749. His fa ther's coat of arms, which, by a curious coincidence, bears the poetical device of 3 lyres, still remains over the door. A monumental statue of him by Schwanthaler of Munich has been set up in the Allée, facing the Theatre; it is of bronze, pedestal and figure, and is a fine work: the subjects of the bas reliefs are taken from Göthe's works.
A group of statues of Gutenberg. Faust, and Schöffer, the inventors of printing, will soon be placed in the Rossmarkt.
Luther resided in a corner house in the Dom Platz, now marked by h bust and the inscription, "In silentio et spe erit fortitudo vestra."-C. K.
Frankfurt is the cradle of the Rot schild family; the house in which they were born is in the Judengasse (Jes Street); which retains the primitiv air of antiquity, and the usual rag and refuse of a Jew's quarter.
The Jews, who form no inconsider- | able portion of the community here, have till very lately been treated with great illiberality by the Free Town. The gates of the quarter to which they were exclusively confined were closed upon them at an early hour every night, after which ingress and egress were alike denied. This arbitrary municipal regulation was enforced, until Marshal Jourdan, in bombarding the town (1796), knocked down the gate of the Jews' quarter, along with many houses near it, and they have not been replaced since.
Another tyrannical law,
formerly. While they last, and during the week preceding their commencement, the inns in the town are thronged to excess, so that it is difficult to obtain accommodation. The articles exposed for sale are, almost without exception, inferior to English manufactures, but at the same time cheaper; about one-fifth of the booths are pipeshops!
The territory of Frankfurt does not much exceed 10 Eng. square miles in extent; its limits are marked by ancient watch-towers erected on the high roads. The Germanic Diet used to meet at not repealed until 1834, restricted the the residence of the Austrian ambasnumber of marriages among the He-sador, who was its president, in the brews in the town to 13 yearly. The building, formerly the Palace of the Synagogue, an old and curious Gothic Prince of Thurn and Taxis. building, is situated in the Judengasse. The Jews are no longer compelled to live in this street, but may hire or purchase houses in other quarters.
The principal business carried on at Frankfurt is banking and jobbing in the funds. A new Exchange (Börse) has been built on the Neue Kräme, behind the Römer. It is in the style which at Munich is called Byzantine; and built of a brown stone, with stripes of red stone arranged in the fashion of the cathedral at Sienna. The architect is Stüler, of Berlin; the statues in front represent Hope and Prudence, the quarters of the Globe, Commerce, &c. The interior is a curious mongrel style of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. The Braunfels, which formerly served that purpose, is an old building in which the Empr. Maximilian and Gustavus Adolphus resided: it is filled with traders at the fair time.
Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple place, or entrepôt, for central Europe, receiving the productions and manufactures of all parts of the world, to distribute them in detail over the whole Continent. In 1836, it acceded to the Prussian custom-house league (§ 32.), which may perhaps influence the extent of its commercial transactions in future.
The Frankfurt Fairs are held at Easter, and 3 weeks before Michaelmas They are less important than
Ministers from Great Britain, the United States, and almost all the states of Europe, reside here; and travellers going to Austria or Italy should not neglect this opportunity of having their passport properly visé.
As the Passport Offices are only open a few hours in the day, generally 2, 3, or 4 hours in the morning, and all close at noon; and as the applicants are often very numerous, no time should be lost in sending the passport to be visé. The English P. O. is open 9-12; the U. States, 11-1; Austrian and Prussian, 10-12, and 3-5 P.M.; Bavarian, 9-11.
N. B. No passport can be visé until it has received the signature of the representative of the country to which the bearer of the passport belongs.
The office of British Consul is most worthily filled by Mr. Koch, one of the most eminent citizens, bankers, and Rhine wine exporters in Frankfurt. His house of business is No. 6. am Salzhaus, corner of the Rossmarkt. Of the multitude of English travellers who annually visit Frankfurt, there are few who cannot bear personal testimony to the urbanity and kindness of
English Physician, Sir Alexander Downie: Dr. Spies is highly spoken of.
The Theatre is very respectable in its orchestra and performers; it is usually open 5 days in the week: it begins at 6, and ends at 9. There is a summer theatre at Bockenheim, a village near Frankfurt on the N. W., and the first station on the Frankfurt and Cassel Railway (Route 70.).
The Post-office is No. 52. in the Zeil, a few doors from the Hôtel de Russie, on the same side of the street.
The Casino is one of the best clubs (§ 44.) in Germany: nearly 100 different papers are taken in; among them most of the French papers, Galignani's Messenger, the Times, and one or two other English Journals. Strangers are liberally admitted upon the introduction of a member, and even ladies on certain days.
The Caffé Milani, in the Rossmarkt, next to the Hotel d'Angleterre, is on the plan of French and Italian Caffés, and has a room for ladies, where no smoking is allowed.
Grebs Baths, warm, cold, vapour, &c., Main Kay, J 45., close to the Leonhards Thor and St. Leonhard's Church, are good.
The shop of M. Jügel, the bookseller, opposite the great guard-house, is a pleasant lounge. Besides guide-books, maps, and views likely to be useful and interesting to travellers, there are usually some very tolerable pictures, or other objects of art, for sale here. Mr. Jügel is the Galignani of Frankfurt; he speaks English, and is very civil and obliging in furnishing all sorts of information to strangers.
Mr. Wilman's (67. Zeil) and Mr. Schmerber's (opposite the Hotel de Russie) shops possess similar advantages.
Bohemian glass may be had at Tacchi's, No. 44. in the Zeil, and at Vogelsang and Müller's, Liebfrauenberg, G 53., who have a manufactory near Strakonitz.
The reliefs cut in stag's horn (Hirschhorn), after the manner of a cameo, are very pretty. They are made in the neighbouring village of Bocken
J. J. Weiler, on the Wollgraben (Let. A. No. 36.), not far from the bridge, is a respectable money-changer. Public Gardens. The agreeable belt of gardens which encircles the town of Frankfurt is one of its most pleasing and ornamental features. No stranger should omit to visit them They occupy the site of the ancient fortifications, which had proved, on several occasions, a detriment rather than an advantage to the town, by subjecting it to the misery of sieges and bombardments.
At the W. extremity of Frankfurt on the bank of the Main, there are public gardens, called Mainlust, where a band plays in the afternoon.
The Old and New Cemeteries, about a mile from the Friedburg Gate, are worth visiting ($45.). The spot commands a charming view of Frankfurt and the Taunus. Among the monu ments under the arcade at the upper end, that of the Bethman family, wit beautiful bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen, well worth notice. They are seen b looking through the door of open work at the N. end of the arcade.
monument has been set up to the Countess Reichenbach, who was married to the late Elector of Hesse. Sömmering the naturalist, and Feuerbach the lawyer, are buried here.
Many pleasant Excursions may be made from Frankfurt, -1. To Wiesbaden and the Brunnen of Nassau by railway (Rte. 95.). 2. To the Taunus mountains by railway as far as Höchst and Soden (Rte. 97.). 3. to Homburg and its splendid new Kurhaus. Omnibus 8 or 10 times a day (Rte. 97.). To Offenbach, by railway, 2 m. above Frankfurt on the left bank of the Main, a flourishing, industrious town, where good travelling carriages are made, cheaper than the English, but not quite so good.
The Prince of Thurn and Taxis enjoys the right of managing the Posts Le of some of the minor German states. His head post-office is at Frankfurt.
Eilwagen (Office, Zeil, behind the post-office)-daily to Coblenz in 12 hrs.,-to Weilburg in 7 hrs.,-to Siegen by Wetzlar in 14 hrs., - -to Würzburg in 13 hrs., Nuremberg in 25 hrs.,
to Ratisbon in 38 hrs., -to Paris by Metz by malleposte in 45 hrs., Homburg, almost every hour.
GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, AND DESCENT OF THE LAHN, BY WEILBURG, LIMBURG, AND EMS.
14 Germ. m.=60 Eng. m.
A schnellpost daily in 134 hrs. Giessen lies on the high road from Frankfurt to Cassel. (Route 70. p. 387.)
Our road follows the left bank of the Lahn. There is a splendid view from the hill over which the road approaches. 2 Wetzlar. Inn, Herzogliches Haus; tolerable, and civil people. This was anciently a free Imperial town, and seat of the Imperial Chamber from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace of Paris, it, together with the isolated territory attached to it, was made over to the King of Prussia. It is old and badly built, but is charmingly situated in the Lahn valley; it contains about 5500 inhab., and has a Cathedral or Dom, a fine Gothic edifice, built at 3 periods; it is amicably divided between Catholics and Protestants. The interior is curious, the monuments are well preserved. Wetzlar derives some celebrity from being the scene of Göthe's romance, "The Sorrows of Werther," founded on events which actually occurred here. The hero was a Legations Secretary, named. Jerusalem: he is buried in the churchyard outside the Waldbach Gate. In. front of that gate is Charlotte's Foun-tain, and the house of her father, whose name was Amtmann Buff. The author has described, under the name of Walheim, the village of Garbenheim, 2 m. distant. The French General Hoche died at Wetzlar, of consump tion. 2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic church of Altenberg, recently restored, originally attached to a convent. It contains curious monuments.
Railroads:- to Mayence and Wiesbaden,―to Darmstadt and Heidelberg, combined terminus outside the Gallus Thor- to Cassel partially to Hanau-to Offenbach.
Steamers on the Main to Würzburg daily. (See HANDBOOK SOUTH GERMANY.)
Hauser, the Lohnkutscher, is recommended as a respectable person, from whom carriages and horses may be hired (§ 34.).
Hire of a carriage for a journey. "At Frankfurt the ordinary charge made by an innkeeper is 5 fr. a day for a calêche holding 4 inside, to be drawn by 2 horses, the postilion driving from the box; sometimes, however, such a carriage may be had for 4 fr. a day, if taken for some time. Such a carriage, second-hand, may be purchased in Frankfurt for 201. or 301."