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travelling is a post in 14 h. to 1} 1., when the road is not very hilly. The
Travellers usually pay the postilion 1 fl. for 2 horses per post, which is quite
N. B. An extra charge of 30 kr. per post is made by the postmaster, when a postboy, driving only 2 horses, is obliged to ride, and cannot sit on the box of the carriage.
A light open carriage, holding 4 without heavy baggage, may be drawn by 2 horses : a heavy trunk counts as one person.
A postchaise or calèche costs from 50 kr. to 1 forin a post.
The Wagenmeister, when entitled to be paid separately, usually receives 12 kr., and 12 more when he greases the wheels.
Charges at Inns :- Rooms on Ist Aoor, 1 A. to 1 A. 12 kr. ; 2d or 3d floor, 36 kr.; table-d'hôte, 48 kr. to 1 f. 12 kr. ; } bottle of wine, 18 kr. ; breakfast (coffee or tea, with bread and butter), 20 kr.
Mr. George Bernard's Illustrations of the Rhine and Brunnen of Nassau contain the cleverest and most exact representations of the scenes and persons occurring in that interesting district which the writer of this is acquainted with.
THE BATHS AND BRUNNEN OF NASSAU.
COBLENZ TO FRANKFURT ON THE
2 Ems. Inns and lodging-houses :
The Alte Kurhaus, a huge rambling
ments, called the oberer and unterer
Lahnbau, contains nearly 300 cham
bers, which are let, according to their 14 Germ. miles =64 Eng. miles. size and situation, at from 48 kr. to
Schnellpost, as far as Wiesbaden, 8 A. a day. A good room may be had (whence a railroad runs to Frankfurt), for 1 f. 30 kr. : the price of every every day, in 8 hrs. To Ems, omnibus room is painted on the door. There 4 or 5 times a day in the season. is a restaurateur attached to the house,
The new road from Coblenz to Ems and a daily table-d'hôte at 1, which, avoids the high hills, laboriously sur- however, is not so good as that at some mounted by the old road, and follows other inns. Those who intend to take the rt. bank of the Rhine, passing up their lodgings in the Bath-house orchards and vineyards, to Nieder apply on their arrival to the Bad-, or Lahnstein (p. 285.), at the mouth of Haus-meister, a species of steward, the Lahn ; and thence up its rt. bank who has the charge of the establishthrough the village of Nievern, Ahl, ment, and of the letting of the rooms, and the iron works of Hohenrain. The and who gives every information redistance is nearly 12 m., most agree- specting vacancies and prices. The able drive of 2 hrs. through varied and rent of the rooms returns a considerbeautiful scenery.
able annual revenue to the Duke of There is a foot-path over the hills Nassau. by Arxheim and Fachbach, a walk of H. d'Angleterre, a very comfortable 2 hours difficult to find without a house for families, but dear; table guide.
d'hôte at 1, 54 kr.; at 3, 1 f. 30 kr
H. de Russie: good. Darinstädter squadrons of donkeys are posted with Hof (Post); Fürstenhof ; - Baie- their drivers, ever on the alert for rischer Hof, in the Obere Allée, remote employers. By their assistance every from the bustle, and recommended as visitor, male or female, however feeble a lodging-house. - H. T. There is a and lazy, has the means of scaling the table d'hôte at 1 in all the hotels, in wooded and vine-clad heights, and of the Kurhaus and Kursaal, and also exploring the really beautiful scenery one at 4 P. m. at the Kursaal and H. with which the neighbourhood abounds. d'Angleterre and de Russie, chiefly Every donkey is numbered ; and on for the English, and more expensive fine afternoons the asses of reputation, in consequence. Britannia, formerly strength, and beauty, being in great Mainzer Haus, on the 1. bank of the request, are usually engaged beforeLahn, a quiet lodging-house ; Die hand, and quickly marehed off the field. Vier Thurmen (Four Towers), same Many persons, therefore, retain a parlandlord as H. d'Angleterre ;- Die ticular number, which they know to be Vier Jahreszeiten ; Panorama, new good, for the period of their stay at the and good, on the S. side of the river, baths. The hire of a donkey is 40 kr. and therefore preferable in hot weather. an hour; but it is better to engage the The Burg Nassau, next door to the animal for the excursion according to Hotel d'Angleterre, is recommended as the terms of a printed tarif hung up a lodging-house. The houses on the in the lower hall of the Alte Kurhaus, 1. bank of the Lahn are cheaper and which fixes the charges for all the usual quieter than those on the rt.
excursions around Ems, whether made The watering-place ($ 41.) Ems is on horses or asses, or in carriages. very prettily situated on the rt. bank Ems is hot in summer, from being of the Lahn, hemmed in between it so shut in with hills; but the woods and the cliff's of the Baederley, which around afford shade, and in a quarter recede from the water's edge only far of an hour the tops of the hills may enough to allow room for a row of be scaled, whence the rambler may enhouses. It is neither town nor village, joy the purest breezes, and the most but a collection of lodging-houses, expanded views over the Rheinland. with the Kurhaus in the midst. In The rich woods which cover the sides front of them runs the high road, and of the vale of the Lahn, and the verbetween it and the river a long narrow dant pastures which form its banks, strip of garden, forming a sort of ter- give Ems a more pleasing aspect than race by the river side, and serving as a Schwalbach, which is surrounded by promenade for the guests. A band of naked round-backed hills, with few Bohemian musicians, who repair hither trees upon them, Ems, it is true, every year, plays here during the sea- cannot compete with Wiesbaden in son from 7 to 8.1 A. M., and from 6 to 8 gaiety, in the splendour of its assembly. P. M., to the tune of whose instruments rooms, and the extent of its public the guests digest their potations of spa- walks; but the very splendid Nex water. Six o'clock in the afternoon is Kursaal, built by the Grand Duke, a the hour at which Ems appears in full the side of the Lahn, contains a café: glory: all the world is then abroad, gambling-rooms, provided with hazard. the promenade is crowded witin visitors tables, open from 11 to 1, and 3 to 10 of all nations, and some of the highest and a ball-room, supported on marb? rank, in the gayest costume. Those columns, in which weekly balls ari who are ambitious to extend their walks given. It is open at all times, grabeyond this, unless they confine them- tuitously to strangers, and 75,000 selves to the borders of the beautiful florins are lost here annually by play Lahn, must begin immediately to The interior, though gorgeous, is in ascend, so near at hand are the hills.
very bad taste. Close to the little bridge of boats, Immediately under the Old Kui and along both sides of the river, haus rise 2 of the principal Sprines
the waters of which are used for drink- | Lahn itself, which at these places is ing, and likewise supply the baths. used as a horse bath. Many jets of The ground floor of the building is a gas also emanate out of the bed of the large
vaulted gloomy hall, which serves stream; and one of them is so copious at the same time as pump-room and in carbonic vapours as to destroy life place of promenade for the guests in in animals held over it, in the same wet weather. The chief source is the manner as the famous Grotto del Cane Kesselbrunnen (116° Fahr.), and within in Italy. a space railed off around it stand young The waters are taken in the morngirls (Brunnen Mädchen) to distribute ing before breakfast, and after dinner. the water to the drinkers, giving to From 3 to 6 goblets in the early part each one his or her own peculiar glass. of the day, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon, During the season both sides are occu- are the usual allowance. pied by itinerant shopkeepers from all Nearly every body, high or low, parts of the Continent, who here disc dines here at the table-d’hôte ; the play their wares in a sort of bazaar. dinner hour is 1 o'clock ; after which There are hardly any other shops in the company adjourn and take coffee the place.
on the walks, listening to the music, In the lower story of this building or amusing themselves in walking or are also situated the Baths — prices, riding. There is music for 1 hour 18 kr. for the common (Rondel), 36 kr. morning and evening, the time varies 1 fl. to 1 f. 30 kr. for the better class. according to the season. Douche Baths (i. e. a stream of water Ems seems essentially a ladies' wa. descending from a height upon some tering-place: it is much frequented by part of the body), 48 kr. The attend the fair sex, and its waters are consiants are entitled by the tariff to 6 kr. dered peculiarly efficacious in the comtrinkgeld for each bath, but this sum is plaints of females. It is on the whole now added on to the price of the bath. a quiet place; little or no raking goes The Douchemeister gets 12 kr. Tickets on here; but dear.
The public gamfor a certain number of baths are pur- ing-tables are not much frequented. chased beforehand from the Bad- Another of the amusements which meister, who fixes the hour for taking this place affords is the sport of roethem, which should be punctually buck-shooting in the Duke's preserves ; kept, or the bather may lose his turn. it is easy to purchase a permission (H. T.) The attendants are not per- from parties who rent a portion of mitted to receive the money for the them. bath, nor to allow any one to bathe The society at Ems is usually consiwithout a ticket. There are other dered more select than that at Schwalbaths in the Steinerne Haus and Vier bach, Wiesbaden, or even Baden BaThurmen.
den. The season begins in May, and The waters of Ems were known as is generally over by the middle of Sepearly as the time of the Romans, who tember. There were 4500 visitors here called the place Embasis. They are in 1845, while 17 years before there warm, and are furnished by 2 springs, were but 1560. having respectively a temperature of Dr. Vogler, who is highly spoken of 230 and 370 Reaumur. They are by those whom he has attended, resides agreeable to the palate and easy of at Ems. digestion. The springs rise out of Dr. Soest, a physician of considerthe grauwacke rock, which forms the able practice at Coblenz, who speaks substratum of the surrounding hills. English, comes to Ems 2 days
There are many other springs here in every week, to see patients. ($ 41.) rangers, besides those which supply the baths ; | An English medical man, Dr. Catty,
some on the l. bank of the Lahn, and has resided here several years. He has others rising up in the middle of the printed an excellent guide to Ems.
Ple writt plendourad je ertent he rest Ir the las
$ prorida's all
nich mit pen al al
inder the i
The English Ch. Service is per- Nassau, Inn: Krone.
5 m. from formed on Sunday mornings at the Ems. A chain bridge has been erected Lutheran Ch.
here over the Lahn, on the 1. bank of The walks over and among the hills which rises the old and picturesque near Ems, for instance, up the Bae- Castle of Nassau, the cradle (Stamm derley, to the Forsthaus, to the Lin- Schloss) of the families of Nassau and denbach Valley, by the silver-smelting Orange. It was built by a Count of furnace, to the ruined castle of Sporken- Laurenburg in 1101. In the 13th burg, to Balduïnstein, and in general century the family divided into two up and down the Lahn, are very agree- branches, from the elder of which able, and afford many unrivalled pro- springs the present Duke of Nassau, spects. For short walks, you may while the younger is represented by choose the Marien Weg, on the further the King of Holland. The castle side of the Lahn, or the Henrietten stands on the summit of a conical rock, Weg, and Mooshut, overlooking Ems, and a little lower down is the less exwhence there is a fine view.
tensive ruin of the Castle of Stein, the Kemmenau is a fine point of view at baronial seat of another very ancient the top of the mountain behind Ems. family, who have held for 500 years The Roman rampart called Pfahlgraben their estates and castle on the banks of (described at p. 505.) passes along the the Lahn, as a fief from the Emperor crest of the hills above Kemmenau, and, of Germany. The present owner, the descending into the valley of the Lahn, Gräfin von Giech, is still of the same crosses that river near Ems, and pro- race, and resides in the modern château ceeds towards Heinrichshof.
situated in the valley hard by, which Braubach, and the Castle of Marks- is also shown to strangers, and contains burg, on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., ancient armour, trophies of the war, and will form a pleasant day's excursion. other curiosities. She is the daughter (See p. 285.) The carriage road runs of the enlightened and patriotic Prus past the Forsthaus; a footpath at the sian minister, whom Napoleon conback of Heinrichsbad leads through the temptuously designated « Un nommé wood to Becheln. The return to Ems Stein.” He had the merit of intromay be varied by descending the Rhine ducing into the Prussian government to Lahnstein by a boat, or along the rt. those reforms which have contributed bank, and ascending the valley by the largely to raise that country to its preside of the Lahn to Ems.
sent eminence. The minister, Von A visit to the castles of Nassau and Stein, the last male of his family, is Stein, 6 m, higher up the Lahn valley, buried at the village of Frücht, 5 ... on the high road to Frankfurt, is another S. W. of Ems. particularly agreeable excursion. These Agreeable and easy paths have been ruins serve as the rendezvous of many cut through the woods leading to and a pic-nic party. The Convent of Arn- around these 2 ruins. The views from stein, and the Chapel of Winden, both them and from the Gothic tower erected! commanding beautiful views, and only by the Baron von Stein on a com3 m. above Nassau, may be visited on manding point, is as pleasing as the the same day from Ems. See Rte. 96. ruins themselves picturesque
After leaving Ems on the way to Strangers are freely permitted to roar Nassau and Schwalbach, the road about and enjoy themselves in the passes the old walled town of Dau. very agreeable grounds. In short, senau, behind which runs a footpath day devoted to a visit to Nassau from leading up the ravine and over the hills Ems will assuredly not be consider to Ems, descending at the back of the misspent. Kurhaus, commanding fine views. There is a most agreeable walk fros
The high road follows the windings of Nassau to Ems up the valley of Diene the Lahn through a beautiful valley as thal, and by Sulzbach, on the S. side o
bo hare is
The beauties of the Lahn valley , and tea, and have their dinners sent in continue upwards beyond Arnstein to them from one of the hotels. (3 m.) and Limburg (Rte. 96.) along Schwalbach (in English, Swallows'. banks decorated with picturesque brook), though within a few years castles in ruins, and smiling industrious elevated to the dignity of a town (povillages.
pulation 1800), has still the appearance Beyond Nassau our road ascends by of a long straggling village. All the a steep hill, and quits the valley of the most considerable buildings are inns or Lahn. The view from the height, lodging-houses. It is said to have looking down upon it and its castles, been known to the Romans, and has is most beautiful; but after that, adieu for nearly 3 centuries been one of the to picturesque scenes. The road passes most frequented of German wateringover a bleak tract of high land, very places (41.); but until the appear. scantily peopled, the villages and habi- ance of the “ Bubbles from the Bruntations in general being snugly nestled nen," our countrymen had passed in the narrow and steep ravines which through it year after year without intersect in all directions this upper taking any notice of it. The beneficial country. There is some fine wooded effects of its strengthening and recountry near
freshing waters will secure to it in 2 Singhofen.
future an annual succession of visitors 1} Holzhausen.
from our island. Already many thouSchwalbach, from its peculiar situ- sand English have taken up their ation, sunk as it were between hills, is summer residence on the spot, each scarcely seen until it is entered. This little with the Bubble-blower for his guide ; town, though not devoid of beauty in its and Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, and other position and environs, commonly does watering-places have been comparanot strike the stranger with the full ad- tively deserted by them in consequence. miration he had anticipated from the In order to enter into the spirit of perusal of the “ Bubbles.” Not that the the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can author's descriptions are inexact, or even dispense with the
“ Bubbles ;
he exaggerated, but that it requires a turn must take the book in his hand. Supthe Pre pleasure which he derived from the ob- | it, or at least to have read it, travellers had om of mind similar to his own to elicit that posing every one to be furnished with
jects themselves, and which his readers are referred to it for all general deenjoy from his attractive and quaint scriptions; and the following short acaccount of them,
count pretends to nothing more than 2 Langen Schwalbach.-Inns: Allée the filling up of one or two points of Saal (H. du Promenade), largest and information upon which the author of
best situated, named from a shady the “ Bubbles" has not thought it d easy avenue of trees close beside it. Nearly worth while to dwell.
Dr. Fenner's advice is as much trous > 200 people sit down daily at the table
d'hôte; in the evening the rooms serve sought for as ever, and is delivered as Gots for dancing and gaming, as well as for nearly as possible word for word, as it von du music-in fact, become the Assembly- | was imparted to the author of the
Nassauer Hof, good and mo- • Bubbles.” The doctor's reputation derate; H. de l'Europe; H. au Duc seems to be upon the increase, if we
de Nassau, clean and good. Table- may judge from his having appended thens d'hôte at 1 and 3; Post.
the aristrocratic von Fenneberg ($ 40.) Lodging Houses : Pariser Hof, clean; to his name, and from the multiplicavisit to H. Royal, formerly Beiden Indien ; ' tion of his portrait in lithographs and not Englischer Hof, where the author of the upon pipe bowls. Lest the invalids who
66 Bubbles ” lodged. At the lodging- come to consult him for the first time grek houses there are no tables-d'hôte; but should be alarmed by the too sudden
visitors can be provided with breakfast appearance of his solitary eye and
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