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ROUTE 75.

BERLIN TO STETTIN AND DANZIG.

Railroad to Stettin 18 Germ. m., 85 Eng. m. 2 trains daily in 4 hours. Terminus outside the Oranienburg gate. The line makes a bend at first, passing the village of Louisenbrunnen, Pankow, &c., to

3 Bernau St., a town whose inhab. defended themselves stoutly against the Hussites 1432, and captured some of their armour, still preserved in the Rathhaus.

3 Neustadt-Eberswald Stat.-Inns: H. de Prusse; Sonne. A manufacturing town, of 3500 inhabs., on the Finow canal, which connects the Oder with the Havel. There are very extensive paper-mills near this. 2 G. m. E. of this lies Freienwalde, a watering

place on the Oder. (Inns: König v. Preussen; Adler.)

In the next stage the Finow canal is crossed, and (rt.) the sequestered Cistercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen of N. German Gothic, in tolerable preservation, now a tavern, and several small lakes (Paarsteiner See), are passed.

3 Angermünde Stat., a very old town, with an old high church; 3000 inhabs.

[23 G. m. from this, on the Oder, lies Schwedt (Inn, Deutsches Haus)—a town of 4600 inhabs.: many of them are descendants of French emigrants, and portion are Jews. The Palace was originally the residence of a branch of the family of Markgraves of Brandenburg, now extinct. Their summer palace Montplaisir lies at the termination of an avenue 2 miles from the town. One of the Markgraves and his

wife are buried in granite coffins in the and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the French Church.

3 Passow St. 3 Germ. m. N. W. of Passow is Prenzlow on the UnterUeker See. "The foreign musical journals have spoken so highly of an organ recently erected in a church here (announcing it as a possible rival to the organs of Haarlem and Fribourg), that a halt of half a day might not be ill bestowed by those whom such matters interest."-H. F. C.

3 Tantow St. The railway is carried partly on embankments along the valleys of the Randow and Welse. On the rt. views are obtained of the lake of Damm, formed by the Oder spreading out into a broad sheet of water behind it. The railway is carried through the fortifications to reach the terminus at

3 Stettin (Inns H. de Prusse, in the Louisen Strasse; Drei Kronen), a flourishing town, where there is little to see; it is the capital of Pomerania, upon the bank of the Oder, but connected by bridges with the suburb Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has 40,000 inhab., including the garrison, and is remarkable as a strong fortress and place of considerable commerce, being the outlet for the manufactures of Silesia conveyed down the Oder from Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depôt for foreign goods required to supply that province as well as the metropolis of Prussia. About 1000 vessels enter the port yearly, and 160 belong to it. The Schloss Kirche contains the tombs of the old Dukes of Pomerania. Schloss, built 1577, and now converted into government offices, was the residence of the Dukes of Pomerania, who died out 1637. At the Peace of Westphalia, Stettin was given over to Sweden, and by that of Stockholm, 1720, transferred to Prussia. Fine view from the Trappenthurm of the Schloss. The Rathhaus dates from 1245. In the Königsplatz is a marble statue of Frederick the Great, by Schadow. In the Marienplatz is the New Gymnasium, to which an observatory, library, and museum are attached. Two empresses of Russia were born here Catherine the Great (1729),

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Empr. Paul (1759). There is a handsome new Börse, and a Theatre here. The chief Promenade is the Plantage, outside the Anclam Gate.

An English Consul resides at Stettin. The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, in four branches, discharges itself into a large lake called the Haff; this again communicates with the Baltic by 3 mouths, which form the 2 large islands, Usedom, on which lies Swinemünde, and Wollin.

Schnellpost to Danzig; to Stral

sund.

Steamers once a week to Copenhagen in 24 hours; every Saturday to Putbus in Rügen, returning the following Monday (Rte. 76.);—to St. Petersburg in 70 hours; to Schwedt on the Oder, daily, in 5 or 6 hours, between Stettin and

Swinemünde.-Inns: Olthoffs; Kron Prinz. This town, of 3500 inhab., has latterly acquired importance from the improvements made in its harbour, which have rendered it the outport of Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily very shallow, but extensive moles and works have been erected to remedy this defect, and it is now capable of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 ft. water to unload their cargoes, which are transported to Stettin in lighters. Swinemünde stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon an island between it and the salt lake called Stettiner Haff, separated from the main land by the Swine and other mouths or channels through which the Oder empties itself into the sea.

About 1 mile from the town, and separated from it by a wood, lie the Sea Baths of Swinemünde, consisting of a Bath-house and an Assemblyroom (Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is a daily table d'hôte dinner at one. Visitors usually lodge at the inns in the town.

Distinct spots, separated by considerable intervals, are marked out on the sea-shore as bathing-places for ladies and gentlemen. At the one extremity men are allowed to bathe without bathing-machines or covered cabinets; at

the opposite end the females enjoy the same privileges, and between these remote spots are ranged bathing-machines for either sex.

Jomsburg, the capital of a Pagan republic, described by chroniclers as the greatest city of Europe in the 11th cent., stood on an island at the mouth of the Oder. mined.

Its exact site is not deter

It was upon this island of Usedom, June 24. 1630, that the Champion of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the shore, he fell on his knees, and after a short prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a spade with his own hand to show them the example. When tidings of this event were brought to the Emperor Ferdinand, he made light of the matter, sarcastically terming the Swedish leader "a snow-king, who would melt as the summer drew near, and as he advanced towards a more southern climate." The following year 6000 English volunteers (among whom must have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived on this spot to reinforce Gustavus.

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Rügen, the largest island belonging to Germany, is situated in the Baltic, separated only by the narrow strait (of Gellen) from Prussian Pomerania, in which province it is included. abounds in romantic scenery, on account of which, and of the advantages of sea-bathing which it affords, it is much frequented in summer by visitors from all parts of Northern Germany. It may be termed a German Isle of Wight, and indeed bears some resemblance to the English Island in the conformation of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it is better wooded, and is further distinguished by the narrow bays or bights which penetrate far inland.

Steamers in summer from Swinemünde to Putbus, in 8 to 10 hours, 4 times a week.

There is an excellent post road from Stettin by Pasewalk, passing the fine Rothmüller Wald, to

Anclam. Picturesque gate tower; the town contains many specimens of the peculiar style of the Hanseatic or N. German architecture very like the

34 Naugard. A Penitentiary here. Flemish. 2 Plathe.

23 Reselkow.

3 Cörlin. 18 m. N. W., close to the sea, lies Colberg (Inn, König von Preussen), a fortress bravely defended against the French in 1806-7. The modern Rathhaus, and the Marienkirche, with its antiquities, candelabra with statues of apostles, and carved woodwork, merit notice.

Greifswald (Inn, Deutsches Haus), a curious old sea-port town, of 8000 inhab., possessing an University, founded 1456, which numbers about 200 students. The square and churches are highly grotesque.

There are 2 Ferries across the Strait separating Rügen from the mainland:

1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer

Führe. At Glewitz the landing place | vowing vengeance upon the child un(23 German m.), conveyances may born, when he should gain possession. usually be hired to Putbus, 23 German This impious boast, however, was not miles by Garz. 2d. From Stralsund destined to be fulfilled, for through by the Alte Fähre, a shorter and safer the brave defence of its citizens, aided passage in stormy weather, the strait by a party of Scotch mercenaries, in not being more than a mile broad here; the pay of Denmark, he was at last the other ferry is 2 miles. compelled to raise the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men before its walls. In 1715, the town was besieged by the allied army of the Prussians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII., then recently escaped from Turkey, conducted the defence for a considerable time; at length he was obliged to retire, and the town surrendered to Denmark. Prussian and 2 Swedish Steamers to Ystad and Stockholm, Tuesday and Thursday. (Handbook for Denmark.)

Stralsund (Inn, Löwe (lion), in the Alten Markt, best), an interesting and nearly unaltered town, was formerly capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a fortress of great strength. It was ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is situated on the borders of the strait called Gellen, separating Rügen from the mainland. The town is entirely surrounded by water, and approachable from the S. only by bridges. It has 17,000 inhab. The Nicolai Kirche, of brick, begun 1311, is very lofty, richly ornamented within, and contains a good deal to see; an iron screen all round the choir worthy of imitation, and much painting and carving, also an engraved monumental brass, 1354 (?); the view from its tower is remarkable. The Rathhaus, a fine edifice surmounted by 7 towers, was built 1316; within it is shown the stone on which the indefatigable Charles XII. was found, by the sentinel on duty outside the walls, fast asleep, before the gate, on his return from Bender. Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier who took up arms in 1808, without authority from his sovereign, in the hope of freeing Germany from the French, was shot in attempting a sortie, in the Fahrstrasse; a stone marks the spot.

The public fountain is named after him, Schillsbrunnen. A simple marble monument, bearing the inscription "Magna voluisse magnum," marks the spot, in the Knieper Burial-ground, where the remains of that brave soldier, robbed of the head, were originally interred; but they have lately been removed to Brunswick.

2

Schnellpost daily to Passow on the Berlin and Stettin railway; to Rostock.

In going from Stralsund to Putbus, the old Ferry, Altfähre, about a mile broad, is crossed.

23 Garz. Busch's Inn.

1 Putbus. Inns Fürstenhof, best; Bellevue; Schwartz's. A bed. room costs 11 Sgr.; dinner, 12 Sgr. Putbus is a watering-place with 700 permanent inhab., belonging to the Prince of Putbus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to be the lineal descendant of the ancient Kings of Rügen. His Palace (Schloss) is a handsome Italian edifice, and the principal building in the place. It contains a chapel, library, some good paintings, and statues (3 by Thorwaldsen), and a collection of antiquities found in the island. Adjoining the Palace is the Saloon or diningroom, where there is a daily tabled'hôte, and the Pavilion, containing assembly and music rooms for the use of the visitors; the Theatre, and the New School, opened 1836. Attached to the palace is a delightful Park, with gardens and pleasure grounds open to the public. The Prince's stubles contain a very superior stud.

A mile from Putbus, on the seashore is the Badhaus, supplied with sea-baths. are also

During the 30 Years' War (1628) Stralsund was the place which first checked the career of the previously irresistible Wallenstein. He had sworn to take Stralsund, "even though it were fastened by chains to heaven;" the open sea.

warm

There

bathing-machines for those who prefer

The great attraction of Putbus is its beautiful situation near the borders of a bay with an island in front. High wooded banks and long indented promontories shelter it from the Baltic. It bears a miniature resemblance to the bay of Naples. From the excellent accommodation furnished by the lodging-houses, Putbus is the best head quarters for those who intend to explore the island. All charges are fixed by printed tariff.

The Prince's agent lets out horses and carriages for hire at a moderate charge. The Steamer from Swinemünde lands its passengers on the boat-pier at Lauterbach, 2 miles from the Baths. Passengers arriving by the boat, and intending to return by it, had better hire for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages waiting on the spot, set out at once on the excursion round the island, and leave Putbus till their return.

The following sketch of a tour round the Island includes all the most remarkable objects, starting from Putbus to the

14 Jaghaus (Inn in summer), a handsome hunting lodge of Prince Putbus, commanding a delightful view over the hills called

Near

Prora, on the narrow Isthmus called Schmaler Heide, which unites the promontory Jasmund to the main island. Sagard.-Inn, Fürstenkrone. this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth. The N. extremity of the island Rügen consists of a long narrow peninsula, or rather of two peninsulas; that of Jasmund, and beyond it that of Wittow, connected with each other and the main island by two narrow necks of land. The length of this united promontory is about 25 miles. bay or firth which it encloses is crossed by one or two ferries, at which carriages and foot passengers can be transferred from one side to the other; thus avoiding the necessity of retracing the same road in returning from Arkona.

The

Beyond Sagard, the road enters the ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here the goddess Hertha (Earth) was worshipped by the Pagan Saxons, and here stood her temple described by Tacitus.

It abounds in stone sepulchres, called Hunengräber by the peasants, in which skeletons and jars full of bones and ashes have been found. The whole district is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian poetry and mythology. Buried in the recesses of this mysterious grove lies the Hertha See, called the Black Lake, from the dark shadows of the beech woods around; it is still looked on with veneration by the inhabitants. It is about 200 paces long, and 48 feet deep in the centre. These localities, and various ancient remains existing upon the island, such as tumuli and cromlechs, possess additional interest, if we regard them as the relics of a nation by whom Rome was overthrown after an existence of 12 centuries: Odoacer, who finally captured the Imperial city, was king of the Rügii, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who formed his army was this remote and insignificant island, and the neighbouring coast of Pomerania.

3 Immediately beyond the Hertha See and the wood of Stubbenitz, rises the foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a precipice of chalk, 440 feet high, rising out of the sea, somewhat like Shakspeare's cliff at Dover. A large Inn, called Gross Schweitzer Haus, has been built at Stubbenkammer, on the verge of the forest. A staircase of 600 steps cut in the rock leads from the shore to the highest summit, called Konigsstuhl. Hither travellers repair to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On the W. the promontory of Arkona, the most northern point of Rügen, stretches far out into the sea.

The Stubbenkammer is about 20 miles distant from Putbus, and 15 from Bergen. Close to this is the Herthaburg, an eminence crowned by a nearly oval wall or entrenchment constructed by the ancient Sclavic inhabitants of the island. Within the enclosure, the Temple of the Heathen goddess Hertha is said to have stood.

At Quoltitz is the Stone of Sacrifice, a rude block traversed by a groove or channel, to collect, it is conjectured, the blood of human victims. Spieker, a country seat of Prince Putbus, is a

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