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SECTION VI.

PRUSSIA — continued.

ROUTE

PAGE

ROUTE

PAGE 75. Berlin to Stettin, Railway

82. Dresden to Breslau

426 and to Danzig

410 83. The RIESENGEBIRGE - Bunz76. Stettin to Stralsund, the Baths

lau to Hirschberg, Warmof Putbus, and the Island of

brunn, Schmiedeberg, Lands-
Rügen

412
hut, and Adersbach

7 77. Berlin to Danzig

415 84. The RIESENGEBIRGE Bres78. Danzig to Königsberg

418

lau to Schweidnitz, Traute79. Königsberg to Memel, by Til

nau, and Prague

432 sit

421

84 a, Dresden to Zittau, and 80. Berlin to Danzig, by Brom

Reichenberg, by Herrnhut 433 berg

421 85. Breslau to Prague, by Glatz 494 80 a. Berlin to Posen

422 85 a. Breslau to Cracow, — Rail. 80 b. Posen to Stettin, - Railway 422

uay

- 436 81. Berlin to Breslau by Frank- 85 b. Breslau to Vienna, Railfurt on the Oder,- Railway 423

way

437

BERLIN TO STETTIN AND DANZIG,

place on the Oder. (Inns : König v. ROUTE 75.

Preussen; Adler.)

In the next stage the Finow canal is crossed, and (rt.) the sequestered Cis

tercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen Railroad to Stettin 18 Germ. m., of N. German Gothic, in tolerable pre85 Eng. m. 2 trains daily in 4 hours. servation, now a tavern, and several

Terminus outside the Oranienburg small lakes (Paarsteiner See), are gate. The line makes a bend at first, passed. passing the village of Louisenbrunnen, 3 Angermünde Stat., a very old Pankow, &c., to

town, with an old high church ; 3000 3 Bernau St., a town whose inhab. inhabs. defended themselves stoutly against [24 G. m. from this, on the Oder, lies the Hussites 1432, and captured some Schwedt—. ( Inn, Deutsches Haus)—a of their armour, still preserved in the town of 4600 inhabs. : many of them Rathhaus.

are descendants of French emigrants, 3 Neustadt-Eberswald Stat. — Inns : and a portion are Jews. The Palace H. de Prusse ; Sonne. A manufac. was originally the residence of a branch turing town, of 3500 inhabs., on the of the family of Markgraves of BranFinow canal, which connects the Oder denburg, now extinct. Their summer with the Havel. There are very ex- palace Montplaisir lies at the terminatensive paper-mills near this.

tion of an avenue 2 miles from the E. of this lies Freienwalde, a watering- town. One of the Markgraves and his wife are buried in granite coffins in the and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the French Church.

2 G. m.

Empr. Paul (1759). There is a hand3 Passow St. 3} Germ, m. N. W. some new Börse, and a Theatre here. of Passow is Prenzlow on the Unter- | The chief Promenade is the Plantage, Ueker See. “ The foreign musical outside the Anclam Gate. journals have spoken so highly of an An English Consul resides at Stettin. organ recently erected in a church here The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, (announcing it as a possible rival to in four branches, discharges itself into the organs of Haarlem and Fribourg), a large lake called the Haff; this again that a halt of half a day might not be communicates with the Baltic by 3 ill bestowed by those whom such mat- mouths, which form the 2 large islands, ters interest.” -H. F. C.

Usedom, on which lies Swinemünde, 3 Tantow St. The railway is car- and Wollin. ried partly on embankments along the Schnellpost to Danzig ;

- to Stral. valleys of the Randow and Welse. On sund. the rt. views are obtained of the lake of Steamers once a week to Copenhagen Damm, formed by the Oder spreading in 24 hours; — every Saturday to Putout into a broad sheet of water behind bus in Rügen, returning the following it. The railway is carried through the Monday (Rte. 76.);--to St. Petersburg fortifications to reach the terminus at in 70 hours ; - to Schwedt on the

3 Stettin (Inns : H. de Prusse, in Oder, daily, in 5 or 6 hours, between the Louisen Strasse ; Drei Kronen), a Stettin and flourishing town, where there is little Swinemünde.- Inns: Olthoffs; Kron to see; it is the capital of Pomerania, Prinz. This town, of 3500 inhab., has upon the bank of the Oder, but con- latterly acquired importance from the nected by bridges with the suburb improvements made in its harbour, Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has which have rendered it the outport of 40,000 inhab., including the garrison, Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily and is remarkable as a strong fortress very shallow, but extensive moles and and place of considerable commerce, works have been erected to remedy this being the outlet for the manufactures of defect, and it is now capable of admitSilesia conveyed down the Oder from ting vessels drawing 18 or 19 ft. water Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depôt to unload their cargoes, which are for foreign goods required to supply transported to Stettin in lighters. that province as well as the metropolis Swinemünde stands on the shores of of Prussia. About 1000 vessels enter the Baltic, upon an island between it the port yearly, and 160 belong to it. and the salt lake called Stettiner Haff, The Schloss Kirche contains the tombs separated from the main land by the of the old Dukes of Pomerania. The Swine and other mouths or channels Schloss, built 1577, and now converted through which the Oder empties itself into government offices, was the resi- into the sea. dence of the Dukes of Pomerania, who About 1} mile from the town, and died out 1637. At the Peace of separated from it by a wood, lie the Westphalia, Stettin was given over to Sea Baths of Swinemünde, consisting Sweden, and by that of Stockholm, of a Bath-house and an Assembly1720, transferred to Prussia. Fine room (Gesellschaftshaus), in which view from the Trappenthurm of the there is a daily table d'hôte dinner at Schloss.

The Rathhaus dates from one. Visitors usually lodge at the inns 1 245. In the Königsplatz a marble in the town. statue of Frederick the Great, by Scha- Distinct spots, separated by considerdow. In the Marienplatz is the New able intervals, are marked out on the Gymnasium, to which an observatory, sea-shore as bathing-places for ladies library, and museum are attached. and gentlemen. At the one extremity Two empresses of Russia were born men are allowed to bathe without bathhere Catherine the Great (1729), (ing-machines or covered cabinets; at

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the opposite end the females enjoy the 3 Coslin. Inn, Bär, 4 m. from the same privileges, and between these re- Baltic, the largest town on the road. mote spots are ranged bathing-machines 2} Pankenin. for either sex.

23 Schawe.
Jomsburg, the capital of a Pagan re- 3} Stolpe. Kutscher's Inn.
public, described by chroniclers as the 3Poganitz.
greatest city of Europe in the 11th cent., 31 Lauenburg.
stood on an island at the mouth of the Klein-Ankerholz.
Oder. Its exact site is not deter- 21 Neustadt.
mined.

33 Katz, on the Baltic shore.
It was upon this island of Usedom, 24 Danzig, in Route 77. i
June 24. 1630, that the Champion of
Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus,

ROUTE 76. Janded with an army of 17,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the shore, he STETTIN TO STRALSUND AND THE ISLAND fell on his knees, and after a short OF RÜGEN-THE BATHS OF PUTBUS. prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a Rügen, the largest island belonging spade with his own hand to show them to Germany, is situated in the Baltic, the example. When tidings of this separated only by the narrow strait event were brought to the Emperor (of Gellen) from Prussian Pomerania, Ferdinand, he made light of the mat- | in which province it is included. It ter, sarcastically terming the Swedish abounds in romantic scenery, on acleader “a snow-king, who would melt count of which, and of the advantages as the summer drew near, and as he of sea-bathing which it affords, it is advanced towards a more southern much frequented in summer by visitors climate." The following year 6000 from all parts of Northern Germany. English volunteers (among whom must It may be termed a German Isle of have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived Wight, and indeed bears some resemon this spot to reinforce Gustavus. blance to the English Island in the Stettin to Danzig.

conformation of its lofty chalk-cliffs, 474 Pruss. m. = 124 Eng. m. Schnell- though it is better wooded, and is furpost daily in 33 hours.

An excellent ther distinguished by the narrow bays macadamised post road, running nearly or bights which penetrate far inland. parallel with the shore of the Baltic. Steamers in summer from SwineIt is carried side by side with the rail- münde to Putbus, in 8 to 10 hours, 4 way (p. 408.) across the 4 branches of times a week. the Oder along a dam of masonry, 4m. There is an excellent post road from long, and over 3 long and 20 shorter Stettin by Pasewalk, passing the fine bridges, to

Rothmüller Wald, to 1 Alt-Damm, a town and fortress Anclam. Picturesque gate tower;

on the right bank of the Oder. the town contains many specimens of 1 Hornkrug.

the peculiar style of the Hanseatic or 2 Gollnow on the Ihna.

N. German architecture very like the 34 Naugard. A Penitentiary here. Flemish. 2. Plathe.

Greifswald (Inn, Deutsches Haus), 23 Reselkow.

a curious old sea-port town, of 8000 3 Cörlin. 18 m. N.W., close to inhab., possessing an University, foundthe sea, lies Colberg (Inn, König von ed 1456, which numbers about 200 Preussen), a fortress bravely defended students. The square and churches against the French in 1806–7. The are highly grotesque. modern Rathhaus, and the Marienkirche, There are 2 Ferries across the Strait with its antiquities, candelabra with separating Rügen from the mainland : statues of apostles, and carved wood. 1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. work, merit notice.

W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer Führe. At Glewitz" the landing place vowing vengeance upon the child un(2 German m.), conveyances may born, when he should gain possession. usually be hired to Putbus, 2 German This impious boast, however, was not miles by Garz. 2d. From Stralsund destined to be fulfilled, for through by the Alte Fähre, a shorter and safer the brave defence of its citizens, aided passage in stormy weather, the strait by a party of Scotch mercenaries, in not being more than a mile broad here; the pay of Denmark, he was at last the other ferry is 2 miles.

compelled to raise the siege, after a loss Stralsund (Inn, Löwe (lion), in the of 12,000 men before its walls. In Alten Markt, best), an interesting and 1715, the town was besieged by the nearly unaltered town, was formerly allied army of the Prussians, Danes, capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a and Saxons. Charles XII., then refortress of great strength. It was cently escaped from Turkey, conducted ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is situ- the defence for a considerable time; at ated on the borders of the strait called length he was obliged to retire, and the Gellen, separating Rügen from the town surrendered to Denmark. 2 mainland. The town is entirely sur- Prussian and 2 Swedish Steamers to rounded by water, and approachable Ystad and Stockholm, Tuesday and from the S. only by bridges. It has Thursday. (Handbook for Denmark.) 17,000 inhab. The Nicolai Kirche, Schnellpost daily to Passow on the of brick, begun 1311, is very lofty, Berlin and Stettin railway; to Rostock. richly ornamented within, and con- In going from Stralsund to Putbus, tains a good deal to see; an iron screen the old Ferry, Altfähre, about a mile all round the choir worthy of imita- broad, is crossed. tion, and much painting and carving, 23 Garz. Busch's Inn.' also an engraved monumental brass, 11 Putbus. Inns : Fürstenhof, 1354 (?); the view from its tower is best; Bellevue; Schwartz's. A bed. remarkable. The Rathhaus, a fine edi. room costs 11} Sgr. ;. dinner, 12 fice surmounted by 7 towers, was built Sgr. Putbus is a watering-place with 1316; within it is shown the stone on 700 permanent inhab., belonging to which the indefatigable Charles XII. the Prince of Putbus, a very wealthy was found, by the sentinel on duty nobleman, said to be the lineal de. outside the walls, fast asleep, before scendant of the ancient Kings of the gate, on his return from Bender. Rügen. His Palace (Schloss) is a Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier handsome Italian edifice, and the prinwho took up arms in 1808, without cipal building in the place. It conauthority from his sovereign, in the tains a chapel, library, some good hope of freeing Germany from the paintings, and statues (3 by ThorFrench, was shot in attempting a sortie, waldsen), and a collection of antiquiin the Fahrstrasse ; a stone marks the ties found in the island. Adjoining spot. The public fountain is named the Palace is the Saloon or diningafter him, Schillsbrunnen. A simple room, where there is a daily tablemarble monument, bearing the inscrip- d’hôte, and the Pavilion, containing tion “ Magna voluisse magnum,” marks assembly and music rooms for the use the spot, in the Knieper Burial-ground, of the visitors; the Theatre, and the where the remains of that brave sol- | New School, opened 1836. Attached dier, robbed of the head, were origi- to the palace is a delightful Purk, with nally interred; but they have lately gardens and pleasure_grounds open been removed to Brunswick.

to the public. The Prince's stubles During the 30 Years' War (1628) contain a very superior stud. Stralsund was the place which first A mile from Putbus, on the sea. checked the career of the previously ir- shore is the Badhaus, supplied with resistible Wallenstein. He had sworn

warm sea-baths. There are also to take Stralsund, “even though it bathing machines for those who prefer vere fastened by chains to heaven;" | the open sea.

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The great attraction of Puibus is It abounds in stone sepulchres, called its beautiful situation near the borders Hunengräber by the peasants, in which of a bay with an island in front. High skeletons and jars full of bones and wooded banks and long indented pro- ashes have been found. The whole dismontories shelter it from the Baltic.trict is likewise celebrated in ScandiIt bears a miniature resemblance to navian poetry and mythology. Buried the bay of Naples. From the excel in the recesses of this mysterious grove lent accommodation furnished by the lies the Hertha See, called the Black lodgivg-houses, Putbus is the best Lake, from the dark shadows of the head quarters for those who intend to beech woods around; it is still looked explore the island.

All charges are on with veneration by the inhabitants. fixed by printed tariff.

It is about 200 paces long, and 48 feet The Prince's agent lets out horses and deep in the centre. These localities, carriages for hire at a moderate charge. and various ancient remains existing

The Steamer from Swinemünde lands upon the island, such as tumuli and its passengers on the boat-pier at Lau- cromlechs, possess additional interest, terbach, 2 miles from the Baths. Pas- if we regard them as the relics of a sengers arriving by the boat, and in- vation by whom Rome was overthrown tending to return by it, had better hire after an existence of 12 centuries: for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages Odoacer, who finally captured the Im. waiting on the spot, set out at once on perial city, was king of the Rügii, and the excursion round the island, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who leave Putbus till their return.

formed his army was this remote and The following sketch of a tour round insignificant island, and the neighbourthe Island includes all the most remark- | ing coast of Pomerania. able objects, starting from Putbus to 3 Immediately beyond the Hertha the

See and the wood of Stubbenitz, rises 1} Jaghaus (Inn in summer), a hand- the foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a some hunting lodge of Prince Putbus, precipice of chalk, 440 feet high, rising commanding a delightful view over the out of the sea, somewhat like Shakhills called

speare's cliff at Dover. A large Inn, Prora, on the narrow Isthmus called called Gross Schweitzer Haus, has been Schmaler Heide, which unites the pro- built at Stubbenkammer, on the verge montory Jasm und to the main island. of the forest. A staircase of 600 steps

Sagard. - Inn, Fürstenkrone. Near cut in the rock leads from the shore to this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth. the highest summit, called Konigsstuhl.

The N. extremity of the island Hither travellers repair to see the sun Rügen consists of a long narrow pe. rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On ninsula, or rather of two peninsulas; the W. the promontory of Arkona, the that of Jasmund, and beyond it that of most northern point of Rügen, stretches Wittow, connected with each other and far out into the sea. the main island by two narrow necks The Stubbenkammer is about 20 of land. The length of this united miles distant from Putbus, and 15 from promontory is about 25 miles.

The Bergen. Close to this is the Herthabay or firth which it encloses is crossed burg, an eminence crowned by a nearly by one or two ferries, at which car- oval wall or entrenchment constructed riages and foot passengers can be trans- by the ancient Sclavic inhabitants of the ferred from one side to the other; thus island. Within the enclosure, the avoiding the necessity of retracing the Temple of the Heathen goddess Hertha same road in returning from Arkona. is said to have stood.

Beyond Sagard, the road enters the At Quoltitz is the Stone of Sacrifice, ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here a rude block traversed by a groove or the goddess Hertha (Earth) was wor- channel, to collect, it is conjectured, shipped by the Pagan Saxons, and here the blood of human victims. Spieker, stood her temple described by Tacitus. a country seat of Prince Putbus, is a

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