1 Salzkotten (Preussens Inn), a town of 1500 inhab., with considerable saltworks. 1 Paderborn.-Inns: Preussischer Hof; Römischer Hof, dirty; Schwan; none good. A very ancient and gloomy town of 8200 inhab., formerly capital of an ecclesiastical principality and seat of a University, now a Catholic Bishop's See, full of curious old houses. The Cathedral is a large and curious, rather than handsome, edifice, built 1133, 345 ft. long, 66 ft. high, has remarkable sculptures over the portal, and contains the sarcophagus of St. Liborius of silver gilt, and numerous monuments of its bishops, &c. In an angle between the nave and the transept is a well 80 ft. deep. The sacristy abounds in articles of church plate, and in splendid priests' vestments. Below the Dom runs the stream of the Pader, out of five sources, in sufficient copiousness to be able to turn a mill at the distance of a few yards. The ground on which the town stands teems with springs of water, bursting forth in the very streets; it is said there are not less than 300 in and about it; some of them warm. The Stadthaus is a very picturesque building. The University is now replaced by a Catholic Seminary. There is a fine walk round the town. The road ascends through the Teutoburger Wald, -the Saltus Teutobergicus of the Romans, covered with oaks and beech. This ridge is supposed to be the scene of the defeat of the legions of Varus by the Gerinan chief Arminius (Herr-mann, the leader of the army). Allowing the Romans to advance across the plains of Westphalia, he awaited them in the first difficult country, on the skirts of the Great Hercynian Forest, a strong position, covering the district up to the Weser, where Roman discipline being of no avail, the invaders suffered one of the most serious defeats recorded in their annals; which arrested for ever their progress in this direction. The battle field is supposed to lie between Driburg and Bielefeld. (R. 66.) Many of the present names of hills, forests, streams, and villages, in this district correspond with those mentioned by Tacitus, near the scene of the battle. The road to Brunswick proceeds from Paderborn to 23 Driburg.-Inns: Köthens Hof, in the town; Deutsches Haus, at the Wells: both good.-The town contains 2000 inhab. A little to the east of it, on the road to Höxter, beneath the old castle of Yburg, lie the Baths, supplied by a chalybeate spring, one of the strongest known. They are annually frequented by some hundred visitors. A covered gallery, 250 ft. long, serves as a promenade in bad weather. A new macadamised road leads over the Bergstiege to 2 2 Braekel (Inns: Berliner Hof;Deutsches Haus), at the junction of the Brucht and Nethe. Population 2700. 2 Höxter. Inns: Berliner Hof; Stadt Bremen.-A walled town, 3500 inhab., the last in Prussian Westphalia, on the 1. bank of the Weser. Near it Charlemagne fought one of his hardest battles against the Saxons. Here is a Gothic building, once a Benedictine monastery, afterwards a theatre, now a warehouse. A fine avenue of chesnuts, 1 m. long, leads to the suppressed Benedictine Abbey of Corvei (Corveia), (no Inn), one of the most ancient ecclesiastical establish. ments in Germany. It was founded in 823, by Louis the Pious, and received from Paris, in 836, the relics of St. Vitus; it became the centre from which the civilisation of the district proceeded. The only existing MS. of the first 5 books of Tacitus was dis covered in the convent library, 1514, and published 1515 by Pope Leo X. The Convent, a handsome modern edifice, is now a seat of the Prince of Hohenlohe Schillingfürst, but too vast for any private family of whatever rank, and void of interest. The only remains of the old Abbey are in the W. front of the Church, and the story over it, with the columns of single blocks in the vestibule, attributed with some probability to the age of Charlemagne; the body is of the 15th cent. The castle of Braunsberg, once esteemed the strongest in Germany, now in ruins, is also in this neighbourhood. Beyond this, as far as Eschershausen, the road is fine. 13 Holzminden in Brunswick. 21 Muhlenbeck. 13 Gandersheim. 1 Seesen.-Steigerthal's Inn is the best: the town has 2000 inhabitants. 13 Lutter, where Tilly gained a victory over the Protestants under Christian of Denmark, so decisive that he received for it the thanks of the Holy See. Lutter, Salzgitter, and Beinum lie within the Hanoverian territory. 34 Immendorf. 2 BRUNSWICK. See Route 66. ROUTE 69. DUSSELDORF TO MÜNSTER, RAILWAY. AND TO BREMEN. For the Railway as far as Hamm (20 Germ. m.), see Route 66. At Hamm a branch line turns off to Münster, trains in 1 hour, 4 Germ. m. The many towers of Münster have an imposing appearance at a distance. Münster Stat.-Inns: Münsterischer Hof, comfortable and good table d'hôte; - König von England, in the marketplace, better situated. The capital of the province of Westphalia; has 24,000 inhab., and is a place of considerable trade and commerce. It was formerly ruled by archbishops, who were princes independent of the Empire; it is now a Catholic bishop's see. It is one of the most curious old towns in Germany, though it has not the high antiquity or fine situation of those on the Rhine and Danube. Along the ground floor of the houses of the main street run arcades, supporting the upper stories, reminding the traveller of Padua and Bologna. Its Gothic buildings are remarkable for their good taste and picturesque beauty. The most remarkable are, the Cathedral, an ancient Gothic structure. "The parts of it most worth notice are, the S. Transept (outside), and the S. porch or Paradis, as it is called. Inside, the Roodloft and its staircases, the sacraments houses, the brass font, and stained glass." F. S. The body of the church is remarkable among German cathedrals for its lowness. The choir has been vilely daubed with peach-colour and green, and miserable arabesques. Observe the tomb of Bishop Galen, who, notwithstanding his ecclesiastical title and profession, spent a life of perpetual warfare; maintaining an army of 42,000 foot, 18,000 horse, and 200 cannoneers. He is ap propriately styled in his epitaph "Hostium terror," but he was equally dreaded by his friends; for being offended soon after his accession by the conduct of the townsfolk, he mercilessly bombarded the town, until he was appeased by promises of submission. In order, however, to make sure of obedience, he erected the very strong Citadel. The English government considered him a person of so much importance, that they sent Sir Wm. Temple, in 1664, to negotiate an alliance with him; but the Bishop had previously sold himself to the Dutch. Under a simple slab lie the remains of the celebrated Archbp. of Cologne, Clement August von Droste, well known for his opposition to the King of Prussia-died, 1845. The Oberwasser Kirche is a fine specimen of Gothic art, which seems to have flourished in its best state in Westphalia, during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Ludgeri Kirche is the oldest in the town. The interior of the body of the ch. has massive piers supporting circular arches. The lower portion of the tower is also Romanesque. The choir and the graceful octagonal lantern of the tower are in the pointed style. From the tower of St. Lambert's Ch., also in the best Gothic style, still hang the iron cages in which the bodies of John of Leyden, the Tailor King, Knipperdolling, and Krechting, his two ministers and colleagues, the leaders of the Anabaptists, were suspended, after they had been cruelly tortured, for the space of an hour, with red-hot pincers, previous to their execution in the Great Square. These fanatics, after expelling from the town, in 1534, all the respectable and rational inhabitants, and filling it with ignorant peasants and enthusiasts, who flocked hither from Holland, Friesland, and Westphalia, proclaimed Münster to be the New Jerusalem mentioned in the prophecies. They appointed themselves its sovereigns, and maintained possession of it for the space of many months, establishing a community of goods and of women, attacking all constituted authorities, as the only means of rooting out evil from the earth (!), committing the most horrid atrocities, substituting polygamy for marriage, and the like. The house of John of Leyden, ornamented with curious carvings, still exists in the market-place. The Rathhaus is a singular and beautiful specimen of Gothic, 14th cent. Under a colonnade running round the lower story, are exposed the tongs and pincers with which the Anabaptists were tortured previous to their execution. In the Frieden Saal, which is well preserved and well worth seeing, the Peace of Westphalia, which ended the Thirty Years' War, was signed May, 1648. It contains paintings of the ambassadors and sovereigns who took part in the Congress; the cushions they sat upon still cover their seats. Here also are shown John of Leyden's hand cut off before his execution, shrivelled and dried, his carved bedstead, and his wife's shoes. The Schloss, formerly Palace of the Bishop, now the residence of the commandant, is handsome, and has a fine staircase, but is fast falling to decay. Behind it there are pretty gardens, oc, cupying the site of the old citadel. The fortifications, now levelled and planted, form agreeable walks round the town. The Catholic University, which formerly flourished here, is supplanted by that of Bonn, and reduced to a College of the theological and philosophical faculties. The building, originally a convent, contains a small collection of natural history. The Provincial Museum and Kunst Verein possess curious ancient paintings of the Westphalian school. There is a considerable trade in Westphalia hams here. Münster is connected with the river Ems by a navigable Canal. A Schnellpost daily in 23 hours to Bremen. There are two roads to Osnabrück, one by Lengerich, 6 Prussian miles, or about 30 English, is shorter, but not so good as the following, by 1 Telgte, on the Ems; a neat town of 2000 inhabs. A large and venerable lime-tree stands by the roadside at the entrance of the town, out of which, says the legend, grew formerly an image of the Virgin. This tree is still the ob ject of great adoration in the little town, and receives every year the homage of the different images of the same saint, which are brought there from Münster for that purpose. Ostbeyern is the last place in Prussia. The road now improves. Fine view from the hill above Iburg; the vale of Osnabrück very pretty. 23 Glandorf, in Hanover. Iburg is an old castle, and the official residence of the Bishops of Osnabrück. In it is a curious collection of the portraits of all the bishops ending with that of the Duke of York, who is represented with his crosier. Here George II: was born. George I. died in his carriage on the road to Osnabrück, 1727. It is said that on landing in Germany from England, a letter had been put into his hands from his deceased wife Sophia Dorothea, whom he had kept in confinement many years, written shortly before her death, maintaining her innocence, and summoning him to appear before the Divine tribunal within a year and a day. On reading this mysterious summons, he is reported to have fallen into convulsions, which carried him off before he could reach Osnabrück. 3 Osnabrück. Inns: Krummer Ellenbogen; Römischer Kaiser; Der Etna.-Capital of a Hanoverian province (or Landrostei) of the same name, has 11,000 inhab., half Catholics, half Protestants. The governor, nominated by the king of Hanover, bears the title of Bishop, without sharing the eccle-> siastical dignity. Thus the late Duke of York was made Bishop of Osnabrück while an infant. The Cathedral, very old, in the style of Cologne; square E. end, and chapel, with triple windows; side screens to choir; sacristy 1150-1200, cloisters. Johann Kirche, evidently copied from the Dom, but a century later, square E. end; old altar now at the end of N. aisle; fine old silver crosses in the sacristy. The Rathhaus, a castellated building, in which the negotiations for the peace of Westphalia were partly carried on, contains a curious collection of old plate; some of fine models. Fine freestone for building is obtained here. In the Dom freiheit stands Justus Möser's monu ment. The road to Bremen is good, but passes through a dreary country of heath, sand, and bog. Some fine oaks near the villages. 3 Bohmte. Inn, Post; comfortable. 2 Lehmförde. After this the road passes on the 1. a large lake or mere called the Dümer See. 24 Diepholz.- Inn, Post; very comfortable. A village of 1900 inhab. 2 Barnstorf. At 3 Bassum (Inn, Stadt Bremen; very good) is a chapter of noble cha noinesses; old brick Ch. in the round style, square Norman tower. river rises by degrees, and the dyke is raised year after year in consequence, so that in time the bed of the river will be on a level with the town itself; and were the dyke to break, immense injury would ensue. The dyke gave way during the winter a few years ago, and overflowed a large tract of land, besides washing away many houses. The total population does not exceed 60,000 souls; it is surrounded by the territory of Hanover and Oldenburg. It is governed by a senate, which enjoys the dignified title of Die Wittheit (The Wisdom). It has some manufactures, but its prosperity depends chiefly on its shipping and trade with France, Great Britain, N. America, the Baltic, and Spain. A greater quantity of tobacco is imported here than in all the other ports of Germany put together, averaging more than 24 million lbs. annually. The improvements in the navigation of the Weser and its confluents have extended the relations of Bremen into the heart of Germany. In the Dom (Lutheran), a fine building, resembling in parts the E. English style, observe the square E. end, the brass font, and the open gallery in the N. E. aisle. Under it is a vault (Bleikeller) which has the property of preserving free from decomposition, after the lapse of centuries, several bodies Frank-interred in it. The sexton who shows them to the curious stranger recounts their names and histories, as though he were describing a gallery of pictures. 4 BREMEN. - Inns : Stadt furt; Lindenhof; both very good. Stadt London. Bremen is a beautiful flourishing town, as clean as those of Holland, surrounded by gardens and new white houses, and containing many curious buildings within. It was anciently a Free City of the Empire, and is still one of the three Hanse towns; it has 50,000 inhab. The old town lies on the rt. bank of the Weser, and the new town on the 1.; they are connected by a handsome bridge. Its entire territory is about 3 German square miles in extent, consisting chiefly of drained marsh-land, intersected by ditches and canals, affording good pasturage to cattle. The dyke of the Weser causes some apprehension to the town. No dredging being used to deepen the channel, the bottom of the The ancient and beautiful Eliza bethan Rathhaus, in the market-place, ornamented on the S. side with statues of the 7 electors and an emperor, has been recently restored. In a particular compartment of the cellars beneath it, shown only by permission of the burgomaster, are casks called the Rose, and the 12 Apostles, filled with fine hock, some of it a century and a half old. It is sold in glasses or bottles. This nectar was at one time valued at a ducat a glass. "The arches along one side of the large vaulted cellar are enclosed by wooden partitions with windows and doors, and the closets or boxes so formed are fitted up with tables and benches. Hot suppers and good oysters may be had here; and as an abundant supply of excellent Rhenish is close at hand, and admirable cigars may be procured in Bremen, a very pleasant evening may be spent in this crypt."-G. H. N. In the market-place, opposite the Rathhaus, is a curious Statue of Roland, 18 feet high, a symbol of the rights and privileges of the town. The drawn sword and the head and hand at his feet refer to the power of life and death in criminal causes enjoyed by the magistrates, and much envied and esteemed both by corporate bodies and individuals in ancient days. In the same place is the Exchange (Börse), and the Schütting (an old Scandinavian word signifying place of assemblage), where the head merchants meet to transact business. The Museum is a club where newspapers are taken in, and to which a good collection of natural history is attached. Here is a skeleton of a German Thug or murderess, who killed 40 persons, including her 3 husbands. Olbers, the astronomer, who discovered in his observatory here the Planets Vesta and Pallas, was a native of this place, as well as Heeren the historian. There are pleasant Walks on the site of the rampart or Stadt Wall round the town, and a Theatre for German plays and operas. Railroad from Bremen to Lehrte, where it meets the lines from Hanover, Brunswick, and Hildesheim. Eilwagen to Hamburg, Minden, Munster, Oldenburg. Steamers ascend and descend the Weser every day between Bremen and Münden, which is only 3 hours' drive from Cassel (Rte 74 a.). The depth of water in the Weser at Bremen is only sufficient to admit small vessels drawing 7 ft. Ships of burthen unload their cargoes at the port of Bremerhafen, near the mouth of the Weser, 30 miles below Bremen, opened in 1830, and built on a piece of ground ceded by the government of Hanover. It is rising rapidly into importance : (3000 inhab.) 35,000 German emigrants embarked here for America in 1845. Steamers are continually running in summer between Bremen and Bremerhafen. Steamers ply every week in summer to the island Nordernei, one of the chain of broken Dunes, or sand hills, which skirt the coast of Germany from Holland to Denmark. It is frequented as a watering-place by the Germans. (Inns: Logirhaus; Krüse's and Schutte.) At low water the island may be reached on foot or in a carriage from the mainland. A guide, called Strandvoight, shows the way. Steamers run between Hull and Bremerhafen every week. They are screw propellers, and make the voyage in about 40 hours. The Weser is usually accessible in winter, and the landing is in a commodious dock at Bremerhafen, from which place to Bremen there is a good post road, well found in posthorses. ROUTE 69 A. PADERBORN TO HANOVER. 163 Germ. m.=781 Eng. m. The principal posting road, and the shortest from Paderborn to Hanover, is an interesting road, now very good, which leads from Paderborn to Pyrmont by Horn and Meinberg, crossing the range of the Teutoberger Wald, and passing on the 1. the Teut hill, on which stands the colossal Herrmann's Denkmal (see below), whence most extensive views open out over Westphalia and the principality of Detmold. It then, descending a long and steep hill covered with wood, and threading a gorge, passes through the Extersteine, a cluster of bold but grotesque rocks of sandstone, rising out of the woods, picturesquely situated by the side of a sheet of water, with trees growing from many parts of them. They are said to have been held in respect by the Druids, who, according to the tradition, here sacrificed the Roman prisoners taken in the Herrmanns Schlacht. One rock has been excavated, in ancient times, into a hermitage or chapel, with stairs, windows, &c. On the face of the rock has been |