granting conditions, he demanded instant admittance within the walls; then posting guards at the gates, he proceeded to take measures for chastising the inhabitants. It was while deliberating on the punishment to be inflicted, that the infamous Duke of Alva suggested the annihilation of the whole city (p. 134.). Charles, however, was satisfied with a cruel, but less sweeping, retribution; 14 of the ringleaders were beheaded; others were banished, and their goods forfeited. The city was declared guilty of lèze-majesté, and, in consequence, the magistrates and principal citizens, the chiefs of the guilds and of the corporation of weavers, were compelled to present themselves before Charles in black gowns, with bare heads and feet, and with halters round their necks, and to demand pardon on their knees. He exacted as a further penalty, that the magistrates should never appear in public without the halter. This, which was intended as a badge of ignominy, was afterwards converted into a decoration. The rope, in the course of years, became a rich silken cord, and was worn round the neck as an ornament, tied with a true lover's knot in front. By the same sentence all the privileges of the city, together with the cannon and other arms of the commonalty (commune), of the trades, and of the weavers' guild, were confiscated; and even the famous bell, called Roland, which was convicted of having played a very turbulent part with its tongue during the insurrection, was taken down from the Beffroi.

As a further check to their turbulence, and for the entire restriction of their liberties, the Emperor soon after laid the first stone of the Citadel (château des Espagnols), situated on the eastern side of the town, not far from the Porte d'Anvers; to make room for it he removed 800 houses from the ancient quarter of St. Bavon. This fortress served afterwards as a prison to the Counts Egmont and Horn; and when the Flemings took up arms to throw off the Spanish yoke, 1570, it was besieged by the townspeople under the Prince of Orange.

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It was long and vigorously defended by the Spaniards. At last 3000 men of Ghent, wearing white shirts over their clothes to distinguish themselves, attempted to carry it by assault on the 10th of November. The ladders, however, were too short, and they were compelled to retire with loss. The next morning, while they were preparing to renew the attack, the Spaniards sent to capitulate. When at length terms were granted, the besiegers were not a little astonished to see the Senora Mondragon march out at the head of 150 men and a number of women and children, the sole remains of the garrison, whom she had headed and commanded during the whole siege, in the absence of her husband the governor, assisted by the other females. The citadel was afterwards levelled with the ground, by a decree of the States General; and the citizens, with their wives and children, working like common labourers, assisted in demolishing the stronghold of tyranny; but some of the casemates and shattered walls remain, as well as parts of cloisters and a small octagonal Chapel of St. Macarius, in the Romanesque style. These latter are the ruins of the monastery of St. Bavon. The lower story of the chapel is more perfect than any other part of the building. The vault has been covered with stucco, and ornamented with colours, now for the most part destroyed. The date of the building is pro bably about 1067. It is not far from the Railway station, towards the east.

The Béguinage is one of the few nunneries not suppressed by Joseph II., or swept away by the torrent of the French Revolution. It is of great extent, with streets, squares, and gates surrounded by a wall and moat. It is certainly worthy a visit. At the hour of vespers, strangers should repair to the chapel, where they will have an opportunity of seeing the whole sisterhood assembled. They amount to more than 600, and many are persons of wealth and rank. The sight of so large an assemblage, all in black robes and white veils (the ancient Flemish fuille, which they still retain), barely illuminated by the evening light and a few

lamps, has a picturesque effect.

The

novices are distinguished by a different dress; and those who have just taken the veil wear a chaplet round their heads. "The chanting of a small, but by no means select choir, in the music gallery, derives its interest and impressiveness from the frame work (so to say) of scenery and costume in which it is set. As a whole, the service is very striking, and should on no account be missed." H. F. C. The sisters live generally in separate houses. On the doors are inscribed the names, not of the tenant of the house, but of some saint who has been adopted as its protectress. This is the principal establishment of the order, which numbers in Belgium 6000 sisters. The Béguines are bound by no vow; they may return into the world whenever they please: but it is their boast that no sister has ever been known to quit the order after having once entered it. They attend to the sick in the Béguinage, or go out as nurses into the town, and are constantly seen at the Hospital.

There is an English Church appropriated to the Episcopal Service on the Braband Dam. It is the only Protestant church in Ghent.

The Byloque (a Flemish word signifying enclosure) is the principal Hospital of Ghent it was founded 1225, and is capable of holding 600 sick. Jacques van Artevelde, it is believed, was buried in the church of the Byloque, after having been assassinated in his own house. It was in the Byloque that he was proclaimed by his townsmen Ruwaert, or Protector of Flanders, and here he assembled the men of Ghent to plead in favour of an alliance between them and Edward III.

The Promenades at Ghent are, the double avenue of trees by the side of the Coupure, or canal, cut in 1758, to unite the Lys and the Bruges canal together. Near it is the Penitentiary (Maison de Detention), an octagon building of vast extent, begun 1772, and finished 1824. A prison truly is an object which an Englishman can see frequently enough in his own country, but this is particularly well managed;

it was held up as a pattern by Howard the philanthropist, and has served as a model for many others, not only in Europe, but in America. As in Belgium, the penalty of death is abolished; criminals of the deepest dye are here confined for life, and made to work hard.

The New Cassino, a handsome building by Roelands, stands also near the Coupure, and is well worth notice. It has a literary and scientific as well as a social destination. Exhibitions of flowers take place in the lower apartments.

The Kauter (a Flemish word signifying a field), or Place d'Armes, within the town, is a large square planted with trees, and surrounded by large buildings, among them 3 Clubs-of the military, nobles, and merchants. A military band usually plays here on summer evenings. The Boulevards around the town, anciently the ramparts, are also agreeable walks.

On the Quai aux Herbes stands the Maison des Bateliers, the oldest house in Ghent, having the date 1513. The insignia of the waterman's craft (whose guild was held here) are carved on its gables (§ 25.).

Hubert Van Eyck, the painter, lived in a house at the corner of the Rue des Vaches and the Marché aux Oiseaux, near the Kauter: it has received a modern front.

A splendid collection of enamelled stone ware (Grès de Flandre), and of German and Venetian glass belonging to the family Huyvetter, is well worth a visit.

Several buildings recently erected by the town of Ghent would do credit to the first capitals of Europe.

A New Theatre has been built in the corner of the Place d'Armes. Its saloon, concert, and ball-rooms are magnificent, and they are well worth a visit. The building cost the town of Ghent 2,500,000 fr.

The Palais de Justice, another striking new building by Roelands, stands in the Rue du Théâtre, a new and handsome street. The ground floor serves as the Exchange; the upper chambers are appropriated as courts of justice.

The Jardin des Plantes, belonging to the University, said to be the finest in Belgium, is far from deserving the praise commonly given to it.

The Post Office is in the Rue de l'Université. Vigilantes, § 22. A.

The modern Citadel, begun 1822, and finished 1830, is situated on Mont Blandin, which is the end of the high land on which the western part of the city stands. It is one of the chain of fortresses defending the Belgian frontier, and commands the course of the Schelde and Lys.

Ghent communicates with the sea by a grand Canal, recently finished, which enters the Schelde at Terneuse. It gives the city all the advantages of a sea-port; vessels drawing 18 feet water can unload in the basin under its walls. At Sas van Ghent, about 14 m. north, are sluices, by means of which the whole country could be laid under

7 Audeghem St. Alost is 3 m. from this Stat. omnibusses ply thither, meeting the trains (see R. 19. p. 124.). The river Dender is crossed on leaving the station.

2 Dendermonde Stat. (Inns: Aigle; Demi-Lune.) The Church of Notre Dame, the oldest building, contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by Van Dyk; a Virgin and Saints, by Crayer, and an ancient font. Ter

monde, or DENDERMONDE, a name rendered familiar to English ears by "my Uncle Toby's" constant reference to the siege of 1706, is a strongly fortified town of 8000 inhab. on the rt. bank of the Schelde, at its junction with the Dender. By means of sluices the surrounding country, which is marshy, can be laid under water. Louis XIV., who

had been nearly drowned, along with his army, in attempting its siege in 1667, when told that Marlborough was about to besiege it, replied, "he must have an army of ducks to take it." Nevertheless, owing to the prevalence of a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison were quickly obliged to surrender unconditionally to the English. 9 Malderen St.

10 Capelle aux Bois St. The Brussels canal is crossed just after leaving this station.

The Louvain canal is crossed shortly before the railway reaches

8 MECHLIN STAT. (See Rt. 23.)

ROUTE 21 a.

BRUGES TO COURTRAI.-RAILWAY.

Bruges. (Route 21.) Station, the same as that of the Ghent and Ostend Railway

Thorout Stat. Thorout stands in a fertile country. A little coarse woollen cloth and much excellent lace is manufactured here. Two annual fairs, in June and July, are held here. It is a very ancient town, and at the beginning of the eighth century is mentioned as a place of considerable traffic. It has a small Stad-Huys and a large collegiate church, but neither remarkable. Near it is the Castle of Winendale, once a hunting-seat of Robert the Frison, 10th Earl of Flanders (1090), and said to have been built by Odoacer V., Grand Forester of Flanders, in the early part of the 9th century. Here the Bp. of Lincoln and his fellow-commissioner, sent by Edward I. (1297), negotiated the marriages of Edward P. of Wales and the daughter of Phillip, King of France, and of Edward himself and the sister of that monarch.

Lichtervelde Stat.

Roulers (Rousselaere, Flem.) Stat. This town is seated on a smaller stream, called the Mander, amidst very fine meadows. In ancient records it is called Rollarium in pratis. The Stad-Huys is a long ancient building in the marketplace, in the middle of the town. It has a large square tower, apparently

more ancient than the body of the building, at its southern end, and a slender but graceful miniature spire in its centre. The church is a plain and rather small structure, with a very beautiful spire. It stands to the rear of the west side of the market-place. As it was built on the site of an ancient church, burnt in 1478, its date must be about the beginning of the 16th century. Some of the best lace in Flanders is manufactured at Roulers, and a small quantity of woollen stuff. Iseghem Stat.

Courtrai Stat. (See Route 16.)

ROUTE 22.

GHENT TO ANTWERP.-RAILROAD.

31 Eng. miles, 2 hours.

The road passes through the Pays de Waes, one of the most populous districts, the best cultivated, and the most productive for its extent, in all Europe. At the time of the civil wars in Flanders, it was nothing more than a bare and open heath. At present there is not an inch of ground which is not rendered productive in the highest degree: every field receives as much care and attention as a garden, or a bed of tulips; and the natural soil, little better than barren sand, has been covered artificially with the richest mould. (See Holland. Introd. §17.) Though the country is flat, it is far from uninteresting, being varied with large villages and neat farms, covered with beautiful cattle, the richest and closest fields of corn or crops of flax, and inhabited by a healthful population. The district of St. Nicholas, perhaps the most thickly peopled in Europe in proportion to its extent, numbers 5210 inhab. upon every square league. The mode of farming pursued in this district is worthy the attention of every agriculturist. Such a pattern of laborious cultivation is not to be found in the whole of Europe. The land is singularly subdivided among_a great number of small proprietors. In a distance of 30 kilomètres, 705 plots, belonging to 500 different persons, are crossed. Each holding averages 3ds of

a hectare, and is surrounded by hedges and trees.

The castle of Loochristy, not far to the N. of the road, is an interesting specimen of the domestic architecture of the 16th cent. It is surrounded by a wide moat, approached by a drawbridge. It was once a hunting-seat of the Bishops of Ghent, Bienvelde Stat.

Lokeren, Stat. (Inn, Quartre Sceaux), a town of 16,000 inhab. There are extensive bleaching-grounds here.

St. Nicholas, Stat. (Inn, H. de Flandres), 18,850 inhab., said to have the largest market of flax in the world. Its great square is scarcely big enough to hold the crowd assembled on market days.

Beveren Stat. '

Beyond the neat village of Zwyndrecht, the cathedral of Antwerp comes in sight. For 3 years the whole district, and even the high road, lay many feet under water, introduced by cutting the dykes above the Tête de Flandres during the siege of Antwerp. 12 Dutch gun-boats floated over the polders, or fields, which are many feet lower than the level of the river at high water. The coming and receding tides covered the surface with sand; and the ground, saturated with salt water, and deprived, by its injurious influence, of all vegetation, for a long time put on the appearance of the sea-shore, or remained a barren morass, interspersed with pools. The industrious efforts of the owners have made some progress in reclaiming from the condition of an unproductive waste this territory, which, owing to its natural fertility and its vicinity to a large city, was of very great value.

Near Antwerp the Schelde makes so great a bend, as to convert its left bank into a tongue of land. The only approach to Antwerp on this side lies along the top of the dykes which intersect the low polders, and divide them from one another and from the Schelde. At the extremity of this tongue of land is situated the Fort called

Tête de Flandre (het Vlaemsche Hoofd), Terminus, on the 1. bank of the river,, exactly opposite Antwerp,

See p. 155.

The Ghent railway station is here; the passengers and private carriages are embarked in a steam ferry-boat, which plies across the Schelde every hour. The best view of Antwerp is obtained from this point. The Schelde is nearly 500 yards wide here, and is deep enough for a 74-gun ship. The "coupure," or cutting of the dyke, by which the Dutch laid the land on the 1. bank under water, was made a little way above the Tête de Flandres, opposite the citadel. The repairs of this breach cost 2 millions of francs.

main street between it, the Place de Meir and the Schelde, to pierce the intervening stacks of buildings intersected by an intricate labyrinth of narrow lanes, inhabited by the lower orders. An old author, describing the condition of Antwerp in the days of Charles V., says that 2500 vessels were sometimes seen at one time lying in the river, laden with the productions of all quarters of the globe: 500 loaded waggons on an average entered its gates daily from the country. The money put into circulation annually exceeded 500,000,000 guilders, and 5000 merchants met twice every day on the exchange.

The decay and fall of its prosperity is to be traced to the tyranny of the cruel Alva, under the directions of his bigoted master, Philip II. of Spain. The establishment of the Inquisition by him, and the persecutions occasioned by it, drove thousands of industrious inhabitants to seek an asylum elsewhere. To this persecution England is indebted for her silk manufactures, which were

Antwerp is a strongly fortified city, with a citadel, on the right bank of the Schelde (L'Escaut, Fr.), which is here navigable for vessels of large burden; the tide rises 12 ft., and the water is brackish. The most probable and simple derivation of the name is from the Flemish words "aen't werf," on the wharf, or quay. Antwerp contains 79,000 inhab. In the height of its splendour and prosperity, that is to say, in the 16th century, it is said to have numbered 200,000, but it was then the richest and most commercial city in Europe. Its merchants, indeed, were princes in wealth, and their houses splended palaces. No city of Belgium presents grander streets and squares, the finest of which is the Place de Meir; and its magnificent line of Quays along the Schelde are unrivalled in the country. The cathedral, near the centre of the town, is surrounded by several

Antwerp, in the reign of Elizabeth. Another blow to its prosperity was the memorable siege of 14 months in 1585, which ended in its capture by the Duke of Parma, one of the most memorable exploits of modern warfare, whether we consider the strength of the place, the hearty resistance offered by the citizens, who yielded at last only when starved out by famine, or the political consequences resulting from it. (See p. 123.) Then came the loss of the navigation of the Schelde, which fell into the hands of the Dutch at the union of the Seven United Provinces ; and the subsequent closing of the river by the peace of Westphalia, 1648, completed its commercial ruin, from which it was only beginning to recover when the Revolution of 1830 broke out. In consequence of that event, the most profitable commerce which Antwerp carried on with the Dutch colonies is annihilated; the richest merchants have quitted it, repairing to Rotterdam or Amsterdam; its manufactures are