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returning Tues. and Fri. The aver- vellers should be on their guard against age passage is 15 hours, 7 of which are drinking water, which is filtered rainoccupied in descending the Thames. water. Seltzer water is drunk in preFares: chief cabin, 11. 48.; fore cabin, ference. ($ 6.) 18s.; carriages, 31. 38.
The Passport-Office and Customsents more frequent opportunities of house are both near the harbour: they reaching London than either Antwerp open at 5 a.m. in summer, to prevent or Rotterdam.
delay to passengers who may desire to Between Dover and Ostend there is proceed on their journey. If the tranow a: daily mail communication by veller reaches Ostend in time to profirst-rate iron steamers, belonging to ceed on to Bruges the same evening, the English and Belgian governments. he will find it the better place to spend The departures on both sides are so the night at. A commissionaire will arranged as to avoid (excepting in ex- attend to the passport, and secure places, traordinary cases) all landing in boats and consider himself well paid by 2 fr. The great power of these steamers (120 | Vigilantes, $ 20. A. to 140 H. P.) as compared with their English is much spoken, and there tonnage (190 tons), and their light is even an English Chapel here. draft of water (5 to 6 ft.), enable them A few hours at Ostend exhaust a to save the tide, and to perform the traveller's patience; while the visit to voyage in 4 or 5 hours. The distance the douane, and the extortions of innis 63 m. Fares: chief cabin, 158. ; keepers and commissionaires, are not fore cabin, 10s.; children, half-price. likely to improve his temper. The Carriages, 2 wheels, ll. 11s. 60.; 4 best advice which can be given to any wheels, 31. 38. Persons leaving London one about to embark hence to England, by the mail train at 8.30 P.M. may is not to set out for this place a moreach Brussels or Antwerp at 11.30 ment sooner than will enable him to next morning, and Cologne in the go comfortably on board the steamer. evening; Hamburg and Berlin at 5 Those whom accident or design may and 9 o'clock respectively on the fol- detain, will, perhaps, be glad of the lowing evening. Travellers from these following information : towns
may reach England in the same Ostend contains 14,000 inhab. The time. In the Belgian government land lies very low all round, and the steamers the luggage is examined dur- waters are controlled by means of sluices. ing the voyage.
Ostend is strongly fortified, and sur. Steamers sometimes run during rounded by ramparts and broad ditches. summer from Ramsgate, which harbour It endured one of the most famous they can leave at all times of the tide, sieges recorded in history, from the and therefore have less chance of miss- Spaniards; it lasted three years and ing the tide at Ostend.
a quarter, from 1601 to 1604. The The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. town yielded to the Spanish general S., is seen before the Ostend light. Spinola at last, only by command of The harbour of Ostend, which is dry at the States- General, who had gained low water, is flanked by 2 jetties, fur- their point by its obstinate resistance. nishing agreeable walks; at the en- 50,000 men of the besieged, and 80,000 trance is a bar of sand, which is kept Spaniards, are said to have fallen durdown by the discharge of the sluices ing the siege. The victors paid dearly connected with the canal to Bruges. for their conquest; all that they gained
OSTEND, Inns : Hotel d'Alle- was a plot of ground, covered with a magne, close to Railroad stat., good; heap of ruins; for their cannon had H. des Bains; charges, table-d’hôte, levelled every house with the earth, 3 fr.; half bottle of wine, 1 fr. 50 c.; and they lost four other towns, which bed, 1 fr. 50 c.; tea or breakfast, I were wrested from them by the Dutch fr. 50 c. - Cour Impériale. Lion while their armies were engaged in this d'Or; quiet. — H. de Flandres. I'ra. I unprofitable enterprise. The noise of
the bombardment was, it is said, heard from Harwich, Colchester, and elsein London at times.
where on the English coast, and fattened As a fortress, Ostend forms the first here. Another is near the Light-house. member of that great chain of defences They are transported hence as far as which were intended to protect Bel. Paris, under the name of Huitres d'Osgium on the side of France.
tende. Neither the public buildings here, Steamers to London and to Dover, or the churches, are remarkable, except see p. 125. to those who have never before seen the Diligence daily to Calais, by Dun. paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic kirk, in 9 hours. religion.
Railroad, see § 22., and Rte. 21. Ostend is a favourite watering-place, and is much resorted to in summer
ROUTE 21. (Aug. and Sept.); even the King and Queen of the Belgians repair hither,
OSTEND TO BRUGES, GHENT, TERMONDE, and occupy 2 or 3 ordinary-looking AND MECHLIN. - RAILROAD. houses in the Rue Longue. There are 80 Bathing Machines on the beach, and Ostend to Bruges 22 kilom., 13 m.; the sands are very extensive and smooth, Bruges to Ghent, 45 kilom., 285 m. s and crowded with bathers of both sexes, Ghent to Mechlin, 56 kilom., 35 m. decorously clad in bath dresses, by The country is rich in an agricultural order of the police. A bathing-house, point of view, but flat, tame, and tireParillon des Bains, has been established some to other eyes than those of a far. close to the sea, on the Digue. The mer. only thing worth seeing, and the most 7 Plasschendael St. The Dunkirk agrecable spot in Ostend, is this Digue, canal here joins that from Ostend to a sea wall 40 ft. high and į m. long, Bruges. At Oudenburg are kitchen extending between the sea and the ram- gardens, which supply Ostend with parts, faced with stone and paved with vegetables. bricks, which forms a public promenade, 6 Jabbeke St. and commands a wide extent of dunes 9 BRUGES Station. and fat sands to the sea : not a tree A Canal connects Ostend with Bruges, being visible. This and the wooden a fine broad sheet of water, three or four Piers stretching on both sides of the times wider than the narrow strips to harbour's mouth are much resorted to which we are accustomed in England. in the evening.
In 1798, a detachment of English troops In the Town-hall, on the Place landed at the mouth of it and destroyed d'Armes, is the Casino, a sort of as- the sluices; but the wind shifted before sembly-room or club, the subscription they could make good their retreat, and to which amounts to 12 fr. for the they were taken prisoners by the French.
It contains a ball-room 150 BRUGES (Flem. Brugge). — Inns : ft. long, where there is dancing 2 H. de Flandres, in the Rue Noordzand, or 3 times a week. Beneath it are or de la Monnaie; moderate charges, reading-rooms, provided with news- Table-d’hôte at 1 : the fish dinners on papers, coffee and billiard rooms. Max. Fridays are renowned. - H. du ComKorniker, bookseller, bas a shop at merce in the Rue St. Jacques; fair Ostend.
Fleur de Blé. — Ours An English consul (Mr. Curry) re- d'Or. sides at Ostend ; a British subject may This city, the Liverpool of the midobtain from him a passport, should he dle ages, which was rich and powerful have neglected to provide himself with when Antwerp and Ghent were only one in England.
in their infancy, is now reduced to Outside the Bruges gate are the 43,000 inhab., of whom 15,000 are pauOyster Parks (Huitrières), salt-water pers. In the 14th cent., the commerce reservoirs filled with oysters brought of the world may be said to have been
concentrated in it; Factories, or pri- 1 When I may read of tilts in days of old,
Of tournays grac'd by chieftains of renown, vileged companies of merchants from 17
Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold kingdoms, were settled here as agents ; if fancy could portray some stately town, 20 foreign ministers had hotels within which of such pomp fit theatre may be,
Fair Bruges ! I'shall then remember thee. its walls; and natives of many distant
SOUTHEY. countries, of which little was then known
It has still many objects of interest, but their names, repaired hither an
which deserve at least a day to be denually. Early in the 13th century, voted to them. They may be conveBruges was made the staple place of the niently visited in the following order :cities of the Hanseatic League, and of Start from the railroad station, close to the English wool trade, and became the which is a Capuchin convent, by the centre of resort for the Lombard and Rue Zuidzand, which leads to the caVenetian traders, who brought hither thedral (rt.); thence to Nôtre Dame, the manufactures of India and the pro- which is at a short distance to the S. E. duce of Italy, to exchange them for the
- on the W. of this is the Hospital of merchandise of Germany and the Baltic.
St. Jean; thence, by the Dyver canal, Richly laden argosies from Venice, Geo through the fish market, to the Hôtel noa, and Constantinople, might, at the de Ville, Palais de Justice, and Chasame time, be seen unloading in its pelle du S. Sang; thence, by the Rue harbour; and its warehouses groaned Haute, Pont des Moulins, and Rue beneath bales of wool from England, Molenmaersch, the Jerusalem linen from Belgium, and silk from Church, beyond which, near the ramPersia. It stands on the little river part, are the garden of St. Sebastian Rege, formerly navigable, but now
and Convent of English ladies ; return almost absorbed by canals. Damme, by Rue and Pont des Carmes to the now a small village, about 3 miles on
Academie and the Grande Place. the Sluys road, is said to have been the
The Cathedral (St. Sauveur), on the port of Bruges, flourishing chiefly about rt. side of the Staen street, leading from 1200; tales are told of basins holding the Railway into the town, is a Gothic 1000 sail, where now is a fertile plain. building, externally of brick, and ugly; At Damme is a fine church, partly in but within, the handsomest church in ruins, built early in the 19th century; Bruges (date after 1358). Of the picthe tombstones forming the pavement tures which it contains, some are curious of the nave are beautifully carved. for their antiquity, and most as conBruges was long the residence of the tributions to the history of Flemish art. Counts of Flanders ; but it reached the Against the wall of the S. aisle hangs a height of its splendour in the first part small picture with shutters, representing of the 15th century, when the Dukes of the martyrdom of St. Hippolytus, who Burgundy fixed their court here.
was torn in pieces by horses, by Hans At present it wears an air of deso.
Hemling. On the outside of the shutlation; the people in its streets are few, ters are 4 saints in grey: inside, a and it has lost the indications of com- crowned figure, and the donor and his mercial activity. Its appearance is the wife, capital portraits. There is also a more mournful from its great extent, good picture of the Last Supper, with and the size and unaltered splendour of Abraham and Elijah in the centre and many of the public buildings and pri- at the side, by Peter Porbus. There vate houses, vestiges of its former are several paintings by the brothers wealth and prosperity.
Van Oost. On either side of the altar
is a fine marble tomb. In the Chapelle Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! The season of her splendour is gone by, des Cordonniers, in the N. aisle, is a Yet everywhere its monuments remain:
series of monumental Brasses built into Temples which rear their stately heads on high,
the wall, interesting examples of early Canals that intersect the fertile plain
Flemish art in the 15th and 16th centuWide streets and squares, with many a court
ries. Spacious and undefac'd - but ancient all.
Notre Dame (Onse Vrouw) is a
church surmounted by a tall brick was erected in 1495, and is far superior tower, with stunted spire, less remark- to the other. In 1558, Philip II. beable for its architecture than for the spoke one exactly like it for his greatworks of art to be found in it. The great-grandfather, Charles the Bold, and pulpit is one of those specimens of ela- paid one Master Jonghelinck for it borate carving in wood, so common in 14,000 A., besides 40 fl. to each of the the churches of the Netherlands. In a workmen as compensation for the loss chapel in the S. side of the Ch. is a statue of his teeth in the process of enamelling. of the Virgin and Child, said to be by During the French Revolution these Michael Angelo, and believed by Sir | monuments were concealed, to preserve Joshua Reynolds to have certainly the them from rapacity and Vandalism, by air of his school. There is a grandeur the beadle of the church, Pierre De. about the upper part of the Virgin's zutter, at the peril of his life, since a figure, and in the turn of the head and price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head in the features, which resemble some of in consequence of this good deed. Both M. Angelo's works. The tradition in monuments have been recently (finished Bruges is, that a vessel which was con- in 1848) cleaned and regilt by a goldveying it to England was lost ou the smith of Bruges, M. Allard ; a charge neighbouring coast of Flanders. Ho- of 50 cents per person is made for showrace Walpole is said to have offered ing them. A wooden planking affixed 30,000 A. for it. It was carried to Paris to the railing of the chapel conceals by the French. Beyond, in a chapel in them from view, A richly carved the aisle S, of the choir, are the Tombs Gothic balcony, of the pew of the faof Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur-mily of Gruthuyze, on the l. of the gundy, and his daughter Mary, wife of high altar, and a painting in the style of the Empr. Maximilian, the last scious John Mabuse (16th cent.), representing of the house of Purgundy, and the last a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the native sovereigns of the Netherlands. centre, with 7 scenes from the life of The effigies of both father and daughter, Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. made of copper, richly gilt, but not The Crucifixion and the Last Supper, displaying any high excellence as works by Peter Porbus, hang in the side aisles, of art, repose at full length on slabs of and are among the finest works of that black marble. Beneath and round the artist. sides are coats of arms richly enamelled, In the Ch. of St. Jacques (close to “which record the string of duchies, the Hôtel du Commerce), a handsome counties, and lordships which this illus- building, rich in altars and marbles, are trious and amiable heiress brought to some interesting monumental brasses of the house of Austria, and which after- a Spanish_family: observe one, dated wards swelled the empire, on which the 1577, to Don Francisco di Lapuebla sun never set, of her grandson Charles V. and his lady, in the chapel of Ste. Croix. The exquisite richness of the monu- They are worthy of notice, because few ments, the historical interest attaching are now to be seen in Belgium. both to the father and daughter, and the Close to Nôtre Dame is the Hospital affection of the Flemish for the memory of St. John, an ancient charitable instiof this young countess, who died when tution, where the sick are attended by pregnant at the age of 25, by a fall from the religious sisters of the house, whose her horse, while bawking with her hus duties resemble those of the Sæurs de band near Bruges, having long con- la Charité. Portraits of some of the cealed, out of affection for him, the directors and superiors of the establishmortal injury she had received, render ment hang in the Chapter House, which them objects worthy of considerable also contains the celebrated pictures, attention.” The Duke wears a crown the pride of the city and admiration of on his bead, and is decorated with the travellers, painted by Hans Hemling, or order of the Golden Fleece.
more correctly Memling, and presented The Monument of Mary of Burgundy | by him to the hospital out of gratitude
for the succour which he had received pilgrims. 4. Return to Pasle, and rewhile a patient in it, suffering from embarkation on the Rhine. 5 & 6 form wounds received in the battle of Nancy, one picture, the groups and background 1477. The subject of one is the Virgin being continued from one to the other and Child, with St. Catherine; and on the martyrdom of Conan and of St. the shutters the Decollation of St. John Ursula in the camp of the Emperor Baptist and St. John Evangelist at Maximin, on the banks of the Rhine. Patmos : on the outside are several “ These little pictures are among the figures of saints.
The artist never sur- very best productions of the Flemish passed, or even equalled, this great per- school. The drawing in these small formance. The stiffness of the figures figures is much more beautiful than in is usual in paintings of the period at the larger ones by the same master. which these were executed ; but the There is nothing in them meagre, stiff, careful finish of the heads, - equal to or angular : the movements are free; that employed in the finest miniatures, the execution and tone of colour, with - the exquisite character which they all its softness, very powerful; the exdiscover, and the beauty and vividness pression in the single beads, of the highof the colouring, are rare and truly ad- est excellence."- Kugler. mirable. They were executed in 1479, The large hall, divided by partitions and bear his name. There is another into wards and dormitories, and kitchen small altarpiece by Hemling, also with for the use of the patients, is interesting wings: the principal subject is the Ado- for its cleanliness and good order, and, ration of the Magi; at the sides are the above all, for its antiquity. It is a Nativity and the Purification in the Gothic hall, with rows of pointed arches Temple. Besides these there are two on piers dividing it into aisles, and, heads by Hemling ; also a Crucifixion probably, has undergone no change by Franks, and a Holy Family said to since the day when Hemling was rebe by Vandyk.
ceived into it. Admission is given at Another not less interesting object is any time except when service is going the Reliquary or Chasse (Flem. Ryve) on in the church. de St. Ursule, a wooden coffer for hold- The Hôtel de Ville is an elegant ing the arm of the saint, painted by Gothic structure, though of small diHemling. On each side of the cover mensions, built in 1377. The niches in are 3 medallions, the smaller of which front were decorated with curious stacontain angels playing instruments, the tues of the Counts of Flanders; but on larger a coronation of the Virgin and the arrival of the French revolutionary the glorification of St. Ursula. On army, in 1792, all these “representaone gable end is the Virgin and Child, tions of tyrants” were pulled down, on the other St. Ursula. On the long broken, and burnt in the great square sides are subjects from the legend of in a bonfire, the materials of which St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins at Co- | were composed of the gallows, the logne. St. Ursula was the daughter of scaffold, and the wheel. At a window an English king; with a train of 11,000 or balcony, in front of the building, the virgins, her lover Conan, and an escort Counts of Flanders presented themof knights, she made a pilgrimage to selves to the citizens after their accesRome. On their return they all suf- sion, and took the oaths, promising to fered martyrdom at Cologne. The obey the laws and maintain the privipaintings are executed with the most leges of the town. The Public Library delicate finish. 1. In the first, repre- (open 10-3) is now placed in the senting the landing at Cologne, the tra- Grand Hall, extending nearly the whole veller will recognise the cathedral, length of the building, and is remarkchurches, and other buildings of that able for its Gothic roof of wood. It is city, copied with considerable fidelity. well furnished in the departments of 2. The landing at Cologne. 3. The French and Flemish literature, and
Ainong arrival at Rome; the Pope receives the contains a few curious MSS.