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The Cathedral, at the upper end of the Rue St. Bertin, is a fine building, showing the transition from the round to the pointed style. The E. end is a good example of a polygonal termination, with projecting chapels. The interior is good. The small Lady Chapel has been recently decorated.

At the opposite end of the same street stand the scanty remains of the famous Abbey Church of St. Bertin, once the noblest Gothic monument of French Flanders. Its destruction has been perpetrated since 1830. At the outbreak of the last revolution but two (1792) the monastery was suppressed: the Convention spared it; and though, under the Directory, it was sold for the materials, unroofed, and stripped of its woodwork and metal, yet its walls remained comparatively uninjured, until the magistrates, a few years ago, pulled it down in order to give some unemployed workmen something to do. The fragment remaining consists of a stately tower, built 1431-1461, displaying the ornaments of florid Gothic in the mutilated panelling on its walls, and bits of tracery in its windows; a small portion of the nave remains attached to it.

The tower has been propped up by an ugly, ill-contrived buttress of masonry. The town is well seen from the top, but there is nothing else of interest in the view. Within the walls of the Abbey of St. Bertin the feeble Childéric III., the last of the rois fainéans of the Merovingian race, passed the last four years of his life, and died in 754. Here, also, Becket sought refuge when a fugitive from England.

A seminary for English and Irish Catholics exists here: it succeeded the celebrated Jesuits' College, founded in 1596, by Father Parsons, for English refugee priests. Many of the intriguers against Queen Elizabeth, and of the conspirators in the Gunpowder Plot, were brought up here. Daniel O'Connell was educated here for the priesthood. At present there are only 15 or 20 students. About 400 English reside here. English Chapel, Rue du Bon Pasteur: Sunday 11 and 3. 10.3 Eblinghem, St.

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This city, of 63,693 inhab., is important both as a fortress of the first order for its strength, forming the central point of the defence of France on her northern frontier, and as a populous and industrious seat of manufacture, ranking seventh among the cities of France. It is chef-lieu of the Département du Nord, and was formerly capital of French Flanders. The streams of the Haute and Basse Deule traverse the town, filling its moats and turning the wheels of its mills; and they are connected by a canal, by means of which the country for 1 miles around the walls can be laid under water.

There are no fine public buildings proportioned to the size and wealth of the city; its monuments have been levelled by bomb-shells, and its objects of interest for the passing traveller, unless he be a military man, are few, as may be judged of by the following enumeration :

Its Citadel is considered a masterpiece of the skill of Vauban, who was governor of it for many years. It is a regular pentagon, furnished with all the accessories which engineering skill can suggest, especially since the siege of 1792, and so strong, because commanded by no point, and capable of isolation by breaking the canal dykes, and filling its wide moats, that it is deemed impregnable. A great deal of misery, however, and enormous destruction of property and injury to agriculture, would follow an inundation, The citadel is separated from the town by the Esplanade, a wide drilling-ground, which serves also as a public walk, being planted with trees

and traversed by the canal. Lille was captured from the Spaniards by Louis XIV. in 1667. At different periods, and under different masters, it has stood seven distinct sieges; the one most memorable for an Englishman was that by the allied armies of Marlborough and Eugène, in 1708, of three months' duration, during which the war was not merely waged above ground, but the most bloody combats were fought below the surface between the miners of the opposite armies, each endeavouring to sap and undermine the galleries of his opponent. Boufflers, the French commander, after a masterly defence, was compelled to capitulate, but upon the most honourable terms.

The Hôtel de Ville was anciently the palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. It was built by Jean-sans-Peur, 1430, and inhabited by the Emperor Charles V. It is a quaint rather than a handsome edifice, in the late Gothic style, but it has a prettily groined staircase in one of its tourelles, and a chapel. One division of the building, appropriated to a school of art, contains a most interesting and valuable collection of drawings by old masters, including 44 by Raphael, well worthy the inspection of all who take an interest in art. They were left to the city by Chevr. Wicar.

The town also possesses a Musée, where, among a number of bad pictures, is one by Rubens, St. Catherine rescued from the Wheel of Martyrdom, painted for a church in the town. St. Cecilia and St. Francis are by Arnold de Vuez (a native artist of considerable merit, born 1642); and there is a series of curious old portraits of the Dukes of Burgundy and Counts of Flanders.

The principal Church (St. Maurice) is in the Gothic style of the 16th century, resting on slender piers, but is not very remarkable.

The huge storehouses for corn, at the extremity of the Rue Royale, a street nearly a mile long, deserve notice. There are some very handsome shops in the Rue Esquirmoise.

The tall chimneys of numerous mills, even within the walls, announce the active industry which is working here,

and show the unusual combination of a fortress and manufacturing town; while the country around, and indeed a large part of the Département du Nord, is like a hive in population and activity, not unworthy of being compared with parts of Lancashire and the West Riding. The chief manufacture is that of flax (which is cultivated in the vicinity), and is spun into ordinary thread, and twisted to form the kind called Lille thread, by old-fashioned machines moved by the hand; besides which much linen is woven here. In the spinning of cotton, Lille is a formidable rival of the English. The making of tulles and cotton lace has fallen off. The extraction of oils from colza and the seeds of rape, poppies, linseed, &c., and the manufacture of sugar from beetroot, are very important, having given a great impulse to agriculture, as well as employing many hands and hundreds of windmills.

Lille to Brussels, Route (1), 162 kilom. 12 Seclin, St. 8 Carvin, St. 6 Leforest, St.

Douai (Inns: H. de Flandres ; Du Commerce) is a town of 17,501 inhab., surrounded by old fortifications, seated on the Scarpe, defended by a detached fort about 1 m. distant on the 1. bank. It is the least thriving place in the Dépt. du Nord, and appears to be falling off in population, and though it covers more ground than Lille, does not contain half as many inhabitants. Like the Flemish towns, it has a picturesque Beffroi in its market-place, rising above the Gothic Hôtel de Ville, built at the end of the 15th century. It possesses a library of 30,000 vols., a collection of pictures, and contains one of the 3 royal cannon founderies in France.

The college or seminary of Douai, founded in 1569 by an Englishman, Cardinal Allen, has educated Roman Catholic priests for England and Ireland almost continuously from that time. O'Connell studied here. There is a considerable trade in flax here. Every year, in the early part of July, a curious procession parades the streets

of Douai, consisting of a giant of
osier, who is called Géant Gayant,
dressed in armour, 30 ft. high, attended
by his wife and family, of proportionate
size; the giant doll is moved by 8 men
enclosed within it.
Montigny, St.
Sormain, St.
Wallers, St.

Raismes, St.

Valenciennes, St.

VALENCIENNES (Inns: La Poste; H. des Princes, very good, comfortable, and newly furnished-J. M.; Le Canard ; La Biche; La Cour de France), a fortress of the second class, with a strong citadel constructed by Vauban, is a dark and ill-built town, lying on the Scheldt, and has a population of 22,000 souls. In 1793 it was taken by the Allies, under the Duke of York and General Abercromby, after a siege of 84 days and a severe bombardment, which destroyed a part of the town: it was yielded back next year. In the grand square, or Place d'Armes, are situated the Hôtel de Ville, a fine building, half Gothic half Italian in style, built 1612, and containing 3 pictures by Rubens (?), brought from the Abbey of St. Amand; the Beffroi, 170 ft. high, built 1237, fell 1843, and caused a serious loss of life; the Theatre. The Church of St. Gery is the principal one. The cele brated Valenciennes lace is manufac. tured here, and a considerable quantity of fine cambric. This is the birthplace of Watteau, the painter; of Froissart, the historian; and of the minister D'Argenson.

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Near it the En

cotton manufactories.
glish, under the Duke of York, met with
a severe defeat from the French under
Pichegru, May 18. 1794, losing 1000
killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 cannon.

3 Tourcoing, St. This town, with 20,000 inhab., is famed for its manufacture of table linen.

5 Mouscron, St. Here is the Belgian custom-house, and the junction of the railway from Tournay.

12 COURTRAY (see Route 16.).
6 Haerlebeke, St.

9 Waereghem, St. About 4 miles N. W. of this is the village of Roosbecke, near which Philip van Artevelde, the brewer of Ghent, was defeated, in 1382, by the French, and, with 20,000 of his countrymen, perished in the battle.-See Taylor's Philip van Artevelde. 5 Olsène, St. On Sun. Mon. & Fri. 7 Deynze, St. This town (400Ɔ inhab.), is situated on the 1. bank of Lys. On the opposite bank, between the railroad and the river, is Peteghem.—The old castle here was the residence of the French kings of the second race. carriage may be hired at Deynze to

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Oudenarde (Flem. Audenaerde). Inns: Castelrij; Lion d'Or; 12 m. from the railway. It is a town of 5670 inhab., on the Scheldt, containing one of the handsomest Town Halls in the Netherlands, though small in size, built 1525— | 30, in the flamboyant Gothic style. In front runs an arcade of great elegance, supporting a balcony, above which rises a tower not unlike that of Brussels, but smaller. The entrance to the Council chamber is a beautiful specimen of wood carving in the style of the Renaissance, executed 1530, by Paul van der Schelden. The church of St. Walburga is also handsome, possesses an Assumption by Crayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon: N. Dame de Pamele is of elegant Gothic (date 1239), and contains 2 old monuments. The tower called het Saeckxsen, and the bridge of the Porte d'Eyne, are very ancient structures. This is the birthplace of Margaret Duchess of Parma, governess of the Low Countries under Philip II., 9 Roubaix, St. This industrious and natural daughter of Charles V., by town, of 24,000 inhab., has considerable | Margaret van Geest, a lady of this

On entering France, passports must be delivered up here, and on quitting the country they are strictly examined by the police.

The country around Valenciennes offers no picturesque beauty; the rivers are sluggish, and have flat, uninteresting banks.

For the Railway hence to Brussels, see Route 22.

Lille to Brussels, Route (2), 150 kilom.

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Nechin, St. Templeuve, St.

TOURNAY Stat. (Flem. DOORNICK). Inns: H. de l'Impératrice, clean: Singe d'Or, good. A fortified town of 33,000 inhab., on the Schelde, whose banks are faced with masonry, so as to contract the river into a navigable channel, and form at the same time handsome Quais on each side. It is a flourishing and increasing town, a place of great manufacturing industry, stockings and carpets being the articles chiefly made here. The carpets commonly called Brussels come in fact from Tournay; the art of weaving them was brought hither, according to tradition, from the East by Flemings, who served in the Crusades, and learned it from the Saracens. The principal manufactory (called la manufacture royale), though fallen off, still occupies 90 looms, and about 2400 persons, and is worth the attention of strangers.

Tournay is supposed to be the Civitas Nerviorum mentioned by Cæsar in the Commentaries. Immense sums have been expended on the fortifications since the peace, and a new citadel constructed. It was considered one of the strongest fortresses on the outer line nearest to France, and endured many sieges from English, French, and Spaniards. The most memorable, perhaps, was that of 1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the defence was conducted by a woman, the Princess d'Espinoi, of the noble family of La Laing.

She is said to have united the skill of a prudent general to the most intrepid bravery. Though wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ramparts, and at length only yielded to capitulation when three-fourths of her garrison had fallen around her.

Henry VIII. took Tournay in 1518; and bestowed the see on his favourite

Wolsey, who, bribed by the offer of Francis I.'s interest in obtaining for him the papacy, not only yielded up the bishopric, but induced his master to sell the town to the French king.

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The most interesting edifice in the town is the Cathedral, conspicuous from all sides with its 5 towers: it is exceedingly fine, especially in its interior. It was founded by King Childéric, whose capital Tournay was. existing edifice is in great part Romanesque, a variety of the style called by us Norman, which prevails on the Rhine. The W. front has been disfigured by various alterations; a groined porch in the pointed style extends the whole length of the front, and above it a large pointed window has been introduced, so as to destroy entirely its original character. The sculpture about the porch is in part very ancient, but the greater part is modern. The cathedral is entered by 2 doors, one on the N. side of the nave, the other on the S., adjoining the transept. The N. door is of the transition period. It consists of a semicircular archway beneath a pointed trefoil arch, the whole profusely adorned with ranges of sculptured figures, animals, and foliage. The nave has an aisle on each side, separated by piers and small columns, bearing semicircular arches, which in various parts approach the horse-shoe form. Above these is a second range of piers and arches, of similar or greater height than the first, forming the front of a large gallery, extending the width of the aisles. Over these is a series of arches against the wall, springing from short piers.

The clerestory and the vaulted ceiling were built in 1777, and took the place of the ancient wooden roof; they will shortly be restored to their original appearance.

The rest of the

nave dates from the 11th century. All the capitals of the lower columns in the nave are sculptured to represent foliage, and are exceedingly sharp and clear. In earlier times they were all painted and gilt, and further decorated by Scripture mottoes round the abacus. Much of the stone-work is rough, and has been covered with stucco; the columns and other parts that are exposed are of Tournay stone polished. The four great arches at the junction of the cross are pointed, and have also been embellished by colour, much of which is still visible. The semicircular absis at each end of the transept is good. At the bottom, 6 lofty columns, 23 ft. in diameter, and about 24 ft. high, placed at a short distance from the wall, support narrow semicircular arches raised on legs. Over these are two triforia and a clerestory, and the whole terminates in a half dome, with plain ribs converging to a point. Originally the choir was about the length of the building, and terminated in an absis similar to those of the transepts. The present choir, begun 1100, in the pointed style, 110 ft. high, separated from the nave by a screen (date 1566), enriched with marble, surmounted by a statue of St. Michael, is enclosed by a series of horse-shoe, acutely pointed arches of the lightest and most graceful proportions. In each spandril of these arches is a circular ornament in Mosaic work, and above rise a very elegant triforium and lofty clerestory. Behind the triforium is a series of peculiar quatrefoil lights, blocked up and unknown until lately (as, indeed, was the whole of the triforium), but now again filled with stained glass. The pillars in the choir were originally constructed with that daring which characterises many of the earlier efforts of pointed architecture, and soon gave symptoms of insufficiency. They were then strengthened by additional masonry at the back, and even now are remarkable for their lightness and elegance. Behind the high altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. Eleutherius (first bishop of Tournay, in the 6th century), of silver gilt, of very rich workmanship,

surrounded by figures of the 12 apostles. At the first French revolution, this church was not only stripped of its revenues, but pillaged and defaced; its sculpture broken, and its painted glass for the most part demolished. The shrine escaped through the zeal of a citizen of the town, who buried it. The chapter is now supported by the Government, which has also laid out 20,000l. most judiciously in restoring the building. Many paintings covered with whitewash have been brought to light. At the back of the altar is some rich sculpture by Duquesnoy, and the marble monument of a Prince of Solms. There is also a painting by Rubens, — The Souls in Purgatory; and in the Sacristy, among a gorgeous collection of priestly robes, is the coronation mantle of the Emperor Charles V.

King Childéric I., the father of Clovis, and whom some consider the real founder of the French monarchy, died in 482, and was buried in the church of St. Brice, on the opposite side of the Schelde. In his coffin were found a great many curiosities, now deposited in the Biblothèque du Roi at Paris; among them the "Golden Bees," with which his royal robes are supposed to have been studded; they were in consequence adopted by Buonaparte in his coronation vestments, in preference to the fleurs de lis, as symbols of the imperial dignity. The ancient Convent of St. Martin, with its Gothic church, is now converted into an Hôtel de Ville: it likewise contains a Museum, and adjoining it is a shady walk called the Park, and the Botanic Garden. There are some interesting specimens of domestic architecture in Tournay. See § 25. p. 101.

Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to the throne of Henry VII., who gave himself out as one of the princes murdered in the Tower, was, by his own confession, the son of a Jew of Tournay.

At Vaux, on the banks of the Schelde, 2 m. from Tournay, is a square structure with turrets in the corners, probably of Roman origin.

The valley of the Schelde around

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