These charges, considering the high degree of comfort assured, cannot be considered dear.

It must be remembered, however, that when hiring one of these luxurious crafts from this famous firm, though the hirer is relieved of all worry and responsibility, he will not be so likely to feel himself "captain on his own quarter-deck," as he would if he hired direct from a private owner. In the latter case, it is decidedly an advantage to make a separate contract with the dragoman for the catering of the passengers, and another contract with the owner direct for the hire of the dahabeah with fittings (which should be specifically set out), the wages of the reis (sailing-master) and crew, and any charge for ascending the First Cataract. If, however, the contract is made with the dragoman solely, then take pains to ascertain that the boat is not the dragoman's property, or the temporary owner may find it difficult to maintain his authority, and besides the dragoman will naturally be inclined to be too careful of his craft, and will raise difficulties about shooting the cataracts or sailing at night. In short, the hirer will possibly find himself at as great a disadvantage as a yacht-owner in a foreign cruise who has neglected to have himself registered as master in the yacht's papers.

Besides, the ordinary Nile dragoman is absurdly

conservative, and is generally opposed to anything which offends against his notions of orthodox Nile travel. For instance, unless the hirer takes up an independent attitude from the first, the dragoman may raise objections to stopping for the purpose of sight-seeing when there is a fair wind, and may try to put off visits to the monuments till the return voyage. He is also averse to halting for any ruins which are not in the regulation itinerary.

As to the time occupied in the voyage from Cairo to Assouan and back, with favourable winds it can be managed in seven or eight weeks. But this might only allow very few days for Luxor and Assouan. Besides, anything like hurry is utterly foreign to the traditions of Nile voyaging, and three months would not be found too long for this trip; or longer, if it be continued to the Second Cataract. It must be remembered, too, that if the contract is for three months, the cost would be considerably less relatively than for two months. It would be better to allow three months and, wind and water permitting, make-unless late in the season-Wady Halfa the goal, for late in the spring the Cataract is closed to dahabeahs drawing much water.1

For those who are wintering in Egypt for their

1 Of course the Assouan Dam locks enable dahabeahs to pass the Cataract at all seasons of the year.

health there can be no question of the superiority of the dahabeah over all other modes of Nile travel. To many, however, the great expense is an insuperable drawback, and for these a series of voyages in the well-found and well-equipped tourist steamers of Messrs. Cook or the Anglo-American Nile Steamer Company, will be found a tolerable substitute.

As for the mail-steamers, which afford comfortable and economical accommodation for the ordinary traveller, they are, of course, utterly unsuited for delicate persons.

PART IV

POLITICAL AND ANTIQUARIAN

I. THE REGENERATION OF EGYPT

EGYPT, in view of its wealth of antiquities and artistic relics, is no doubt of the highest importance to the antiquarian traveller. Regarded, however, as a community or modern state, Egypt of to-day holds a low rank among semi-civilised countries. There is some reason for the complaint of some modern historians, that western minds seem to lose all sense of proportion and historic perspective when describing this Land of Paradox. Yet it is after all but a fifth-rate territory, with an acreage about the same as that of Holland. Its population (10 millions) has, however, increased considerably of late years.

At the same time one cannot deny the great importance of Egypt. This, no doubt, is fictitious, due partly to its peculiar geographical position, which makes it the great highway between the Eastern and Western hemispheres, and partly to its climate, which has converted it into the great winter residence and playground of civilised nations.

The attitude of England, in its policy of Egyptian intervention since the Arabi revolt, seemed at first simple enough. It was natural that the British Government supposed that their task, when France in 1882 threw all responsibility for Egypt on their hands, was merely to crush a military rising. Only actual experience taught England that the rebellion was a very small matter, and that the real difficulty lay in the utter rottenness of the whole fabric of government. Naturally then the pledges England made, being based on a total misapprehension, were impossible of fulfilment. But to the spirit of these pledges England has been faithful. Besides, it is

indisputable that England has derived no pecuniary benefit from her occupation of Egypt. As a matter of fact, among the foreign employés in the Egyptian Civil Service there are nearly twice as many of French or Italian nationality as English.

In order to appreciate the significance of the great reforms carried out by Great Britain, the maze of difficulties, both internal and external, she had to contend against, when she unwillingly entered upon the rôle of reformer, must not be lost sight of. Her attitude towards Europe is indicated by the famous despatch of Lord Granville addressed to the Powers in January 1883.

"Although for the present," says that document,