INTRODUCTION

CAIRO, in spite of the Europeanising tendencies of Mehemet Ali, and the innovations of Ismail in his attempt to give a Parisian veneer to his oriental Capital, still remains one of the most attractive cities in the East. It is, of course, inferior in world-wide interest to Jerusalem or even Rome or Athens, but if a plebiscite were taken among tourists of the dozen most interesting cities in the world, Cairo would undoubtedly find a place in the list.

Cairo, dating only from the tenth century, has of course no pretension to rank as an ancient historic capital, and its historic interest is purely Mediæval and Saracenic. In short, the capital of Egypt, the cradle of the oldest civilization in the world and the fountain of European arts and sciences, is but a city of yesterday compared to Memphis, Heliopolis, Thebes, and other ancient cities of Egypt now buried under the desert sands, or the accumulation of the debris and rubbish of centuries.

But though historical students may consider Cairo a mere mushroom city, it is full of attractions for many tourists, who do not find it easy to resist the fascination of the picturesque oriental life in the native quarters, where it is still possible, when once the Mooski is crossed, for the imaginative traveller to realise the dreams of the Arabian Nights of his childhood. The artist, too, if he strikes out a line for himself, and ignores the hackneyed and limited itineraries of the interpreters and guides, will find Cairo full of the richest material for his sketch-book.

Some portions of the chapters in Cairo of To-Day are reproduced by permission from my City of the Caliphs (1 vol. 12s. 6d. nett), published by Messrs. Dana Estes and Co., Boston, U.S.A.

The sections dealing with ROUTES and PRACTICAL INFORMATION have been most carefully revised and elaborated for this edition; in fact the greater part of the first two chapters has been entirely re-written-and I have taken the greatest pains to bring the information up to date. These matters, which concern so closely the comfort and convenience of the Egyptian tourist, have, indeed, been more exhaustively dealt with than in any guide-book yet published. Then, I have added a short chapter on Khartoum, and have included the latest results of archæological research,

November, 1904.

E. A. R.-B.

PART I

CAIRO

I. HOW TO REACH CAIRO1

THE various routes from England to Egypt are so numerous that the most precise classification is necessary to differentiate them. They may most conveniently be divided into sea and overland routes. On the whole the voyage is preferable for invalids to the rail journey, and in the long run it will be found, even by the more expensive P. and O. and OrientPacific liners, more economical.

1. Sea Routes.(a) From London.-From London there are the weekly P. and O. service and the fortnightly service of the Orient-Pacific liners. The P. and O. steamers leave London every Friday (occasionally Thursday), arriving at Marseilles about seven or eight, and Port Said about twelve, days later. Fares, London to Cairo (via Port Said), £23, 4s. first and £13, 14s. 3d. second class.

Since 1897 the P. and O. Company have much improved the Egyptian passenger service, and in that year a new weekly Egyptian service was established from London to

1 When dates are given they refer only to the 1904-5 season Railway time-tables also only apply to 1904-5 services.

Port Said via Marseilles, for the through Indian and Australian liners, the call at Brindisi being discontinued both outwards and homewards by the through steamers. The mails (see BRINDISI-PORT SAID MAIL SERVICE, page 5), however, are still transhipped at Brindisi. Return tickets

have lately been discontinued between London and Egypt, but a rebatement of 25 per cent. on the return passage money will be allowed within twelve months of arrival. This new service can be recommended to invalid travellers.

The fine mail steamers of the Orient-Pacific Line sail from Tilbury every alternate Friday, from Friday, October 7th, calling at Plymouth next day, and reach Port Said (calling at Marseilles and Naples) in twelve or thirteen days. First-class fare from London to Cairo (via Port Said), £23, 4s.; second, £13, 14s. 3d.

Then the British India Company despatch a fortnightly steamer from Saturday, October 1st, and take passengers for Egypt, calling at Marseilles (and sometimes Naples); but some of these steamers are slow, and the accommodation is less luxurious than that provided by the P. and O. and Orient ships. First-class fare to Port Said, £17.

The new Prince Line (see page 8) books passengers from London to Cairo for £12, 18s. first class.

The Glen Line has a monthly service to Japan, calling at Canal ports. First-class fare, £12.

Then the Japanese Mail Line (Nippon Yusen Kaisha) is beginning to be employed by English travellers. There is a service from London, calling at Port Said and Suez about once a fortnight, but the sailings are at present irregular. Fares to Port Said, £16, 10s. and £11; but berths for Egypt seldom vacant.

(b) From Southampton.-The fortnightly service of the