LONDON

BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Residence of the Pasha-Foundation of Mosul-Its Situation---

Its Mode of Communication with the other side of the River

-Reside at the Encampment of Mr. Layard-Tiyari Nestorian

Christians Their Assassination by the Koords-Antiquity of

the Chaldean Christian Church-An Appeal on behalf of those

that yet remain-The Jabour Tribe.

CHAPTER II.

Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-The Effects on the Tents-

Excavations by Mr. Layard described-Reflections caused by

the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to

Mecca-How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination-

Further Excavations by Mr. Layard-The Well of Thisbe

How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language

of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the

drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two

hostile Tribes-The Tai Tribe-Its Antiquity-Pride of the old

Sheik Arab Muskets Described-Pay-day on the Mound-

Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-

House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages-

Excavations at Tel Nimroud-Imposing and solemn Effect

of some of the excavated Figures - Prepare to depart for

Kourdistan

PAGE

1

13

CHAPTER III.

Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost Their Re-appearance -

Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offer-

ings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers

for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How

it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the

Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertain-

ment-Negoub-Description of it-Attempt to examine the Outer

Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant-His Character and

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Residence of the Pasha-Foundation of Mosul-Its Situation--

Its Mode of Communication with the other side of the River

-Reside at the Encampment of Mr. Layard-Tiyari Nestorian

Christians Their Assassination by the Koords-Antiquity of

the Chaldean Christian Church-An Appeal on behalf of those

that yet remain-The Jabour Tribe.

CHAPTER II.

Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-The Effects on the Tents-

Excavations by Mr. Layard described-Reflections caused by

the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to

Mecca-How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination-

Further Excavations by Mr. Layard-The Well of Thisbe-

How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language

of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the

drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two

hostile Tribes-The Tai Tribe-Its Antiquity-Pride of the old

Sheik-Arab Muskets Described-Pay-day on the Mound-

Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-

House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages-

Excavations at Tel Nimroud-Imposing and solemn Effect

of some of the excavated Figures - Prepare to depart for

Kourdistan

PAGE

1

13

CHAPTER III.

Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost Their Re-appearance

Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offer-

ings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers

for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How

it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the

Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertain-

ment-Negoub-Description ofit-Attempt to examine the Outer

Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant -His Character and

vi

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Peculiarities-His Exhortation to Patience, and personal Exem-

plification of that Virtue-How far the Prophet is obeyed as to

Cleanliness-Visit to the Convent St. Hhother Elias-Its Church

-Inhospitable Christian Arabs-Measurement of Time by the

Arabs-Difference of Opinion between a Turk and a Persian

concerning Time--Distance, as calculated by time in the East. 38

CHAPTER IV.

Reach Bartella-Kindness of the Priest there-Persecution of the

Christians-Want of Privacy in the East-Incessant Visits from

staring Strangers-How a Traveller should comport himself in

the East-Fall from my horse-Take Refuge in a Convent-

Its Renovation by the Bishop-Accommodation there--Kind-

ness of Mr. and Mrs. Badger-What a Traveller in the East

has to expect in the matter of eating and drinking-Food of

the Natives, rich and poor-View from the Convent-Plain

repeopled-Past Ages called up-Destruction of the Convents

by Tamerlane-Strike amongst the workmen-Peculiar Exhor-

tations of the Bishop-Marriage Tests of the Chaldean Girls-

Journey pursued-Two of the Party fall Sick-Cool Retreat—

Complaining Visitors-The Jews and the young Jewess

CHAPTER V.

Continued Illness of some of the Party-How Sickness is borne by

Natives of the East-Accompanied by Mr. Layard, start for the

Koord Mountains-Town of Ackra described-The Pasha

deposed by the Sultan-I fall sick-Murder of Professor

Schultz Scenery on the Journey-Welcome of the Pasha to

Mr. Layard-Arrival at Van-Bitlis Cloth-Bazaars of Van-

Visit the Pasha-Reception by his Hasnedara-Taken worse-

Tacktervan in which I journeyed to the Convent-The Dresses

of the People of Van-Policy of the Porte briefly considered-

Frankish Dress adopted by Turks- Lebiss Stamboul"

Apartments in the Convent, and partial Recovery-On the

Pleasure and Advantage, or otherwise, of travelling alone

CHAPTER VI.

Misery of being left alone in Sickness-The Hytas-His History—

His Habits and peculiar Cookery-Illusions and Vagaries of

Delirium-Reception by the Hadjee of the truant Servants—

Visit of the Armenian Bishop-Mussulman Fast-How the

Kavass of Mr. Layard kept it-His exploit at Van-Interior of

the Church-The Chapels-Trading in the East-Monks of the

Convent-Armenians-Their good and bad Qualities-Oppro-