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interior of the brim. A good many of the others are decorated with ribbon à la vielle, or with a chicoree wreath of ribbon; the interior of the brim is decorated with coques en suite. Where the interior is very close there is seldom any trimming.
Chapeaux of the half gipsey form have lost nothing of their vogue for public promenade and carriage dress. Some of the prettiest are of rice straw, decorated with a fall of lilac acacia. Several others, of rice and fancy straw, are trimmed round the crown with a wreath of field flowers, or else are formed of an intermixture of early fruits, as cherries, currants, strawberries, &c. &c., with various kinds of wild flowers. Another style of trimming that is also in vogue, though not so much, is composed of detached flowers employed to loop ribbon,-a single one is placed high on one side, or in some instances a second flower is disposed on the opposite side, but lower down. We may cite among the most elegant of the half dress bonnets, some of an open shape but a very small brim, the interior lined with white crape; the trimming is composed of a band and triple knot of ribbon plaided in a rich and novel pattern, placed on the right side, and on the left a fall of creepers, dandelion in blossom, and very small wild flowers. We may cite as still more elegant, some pink tulle bonnets trimmed on each side of the brim with a rosette formed of small roses, with their foliage intermingled with a light beuillonne of tulle of the shade of the bonnet. We shall close our catalogue with some of the most novel of the crape bonnets: those of lemon colour trimmed with dog roses are equally remarkable for the simplicity and taste with which the garniture is arranged. Others are decorated with long flexible sprigs of flowers, drooping in the style of a feather on the brim, or with tufts of intermingled tulle and ribbon on one side, and a small bouquet or a single large flower on the other.
The vogue of mantelets has increased very much during the last month, it is at present doubtful whether it will continue, but we are inclined to answer in the affirmative since the weather has permitted the appearance of those composed of organdy lined with coloured crape or silk, embroidered in feather stitch, and either trimmed with lace or festooned round the border. Nothing can possibly be more elegant or adapted to the season than these mantelets. We have seen also a few shawls of organdy of a very large size, square, embroidered in a rich pattern round the border, and trimmed with lace. They are lined with pink or blue crape. They are very costly, and may perhaps become fashionable, but at present their vogue is not decided.
We have already cited the materials most in request for robes, both for the promenade and in door dress, but we cannot avoid observing the very great perfection to which foulards have been brought; they are employed not only for simple and elegant négligé, but also for evening robes, and indeed some of the most tasteful of the latter are composed of them.
The pelisse-robe form is still predominent in promenade dress,—a good many are composed of grey poult de soie or gros de Naples. We observe that this colour seems to have regained the vogue which it enjoyed a few years ago, and also that plain silks in general have within the last few weeks been more in demand than usual. We do not think, however, that shaded and shot silks are likely soon to go out of fashion, though we believe that plain colours will speedily divide the vogue with them. But to return to the forms of our robes,-several of those of the pelisse kind have the fronts trimmed with very large fancy silk, or steel buttons. When this fashion first came in, the buttons were of a small size and perfectly suitable for a plain morning or walking dress, but since they have increased in size, the effect is very heavy and in bad taste.
The forms of robes are now decided for the season. We have given some of the most elegant models in our prints, both in this and our preceding number; it will be seen that the most opposite forms of sleeves are fashionable, and this variety affords our elégantes great liberty of choice. There is also considerable variety in trimmings; effiles frequently replace flounces. Lace is also in much request, it has a magical effect upon shot silks, particularly on the camelions. i when thus employed nothing is more distingué than a single excessively broad lace flounce.
Our fair readers are aware, that in the higher circles evening dress still retains its winter splendour, as we noticed in one of our preceding numbers, with the exception of velvets, damasks, and brocades. But grand parties being now at an end, evening dress will in the course of this month be composed of the organdy; tarlatanes, and slight silks usually adopted at this season of the year, made and trimmed in that style of elegant simplicity so becoming and appropriate to summer costume.
Fashionable colours have not altered since the appearance of our last number.
PARIS FASHIONS FOR THE MONTH.
Our summer toilettes are this year more recherche than usual, though by no means more showy; indeed if anything we think they are less so. The most remarkable novelties in toilettes, are those that have recently appeared for the country or the watering places. The chapeaux à la glaneuse are in great request for the first, and certainly they are admirably calculated to defend our fair chatelainés from the heat of the sun; the brim is large and round, the crown very low, the brides are placed in the interior; a wreath of foliage encircles the crown; a single rose is placed at the head of each bride. This simple style of trimming has a very pretty effect. These chapeaux are always either of plain fine straw,
or of paille d'Italie. Straw of every kind is in request for the watering places. Capotes of plain fine straw are adopted for the walk before breakfast; different kinds of fancy straw may be worn either in plain or elegant négligé; paille de riz, which has lost nothing of its distinction, is in equal request in public promenade dress, and demi toilette; for which chapeaux and capotes of crape tulle and lace are also adopted. They are also adopted in evening dress, which is now entirely in the néglige du Soir style. Flowers are at this moment almost always employed both for chapeaux and capotes in half dress. We may cite among the most fashionable, sprigs of white, yellow, and pink acacia, which, intermingled with sprigs of white thorn and foliage, form very pretty wreaths; roses mingled with mignionette or blue bells, and wreaths of violets disposed in tufts, with foliage between, are also in great request.
Black mantelets, with the exception of lace ones, are decidedly out of fashion. Scarfs keep their ground, particularly those of barege, and black and white lace; those of black lace, lined with coloured silk or crape, are a good deal seen in the promenade; white ones are, generally speaking, adopted only for visits or evening dress.
Light materials are coming very much into vogue, both for the promenade and evening dress. We see a good many muslin robes in the former; they are generally white, but a few printed ones have also appeared,—they are in small patterns and rather vivid colours. It would be difficult to say which is most in vogue, close corsages, or those with lappels opening very much on the bosom. We have, however, observed that the former are most generally adopted for muslin robes.
A good many barege dresses are trimmed with flounces cut bias, there are two, three, or sometimes five; the latter number is seldom adopted except by very tall ladies. If there are two flounces they are of equal depth; where three are employed, they are also equal sometimes, but more frequently if there are from three to five flounces they diminish gradually. We see also many of these robes without any trimming round the border. The corsages are in general full, and a little open in front; several are made with a revers edged with éffilé, which finishes in a point in the ceinture. Silk dresses are also a good deal trimmed with flounces, either scalloped or edged with éffilé. Several are trimmed with five scalloped flounces, decreasing gradually in depth, as they rise on the skirt. The corsages of these robes are always tight, cut bias, and very little open in front. The sleeves are tight and closed at the bottom. We observe that striped silks and those broché are not so much in request as those glacé blonc. We may cite among those most in vogue-deep blue, grey, dove colour, and different shades of green,— these are all shot with white, they are in very good taste, and, in the strict sense: of the word, summer silks.
Printed organdys have just appeared,-they are expected to be very much in vogue for robes in négligé du Soir. Some that have just been made, have the corsages a la vierge, and the sleeves demi long; the bottoms of the sleeves and the revers which encircles the top of the corsage cut in round dents, and over cast with silk of one of the colours of the muslin, the skirts are trimmed with two r three flounces similarly edged. Fashionable colours are the same as last month.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
MORNING VISITING DRESSES.
Balzarine robe of one of the new patterns, a low corsage, the front disposed en demi lozenge; a deep revers encircles the round of the corsage and is open on the shoulder. Sleeves of a three quarter length and an easy width, with a cleft mancheron. Muslin under-sleeve. Embroidered cambric chemisette. Rice straw chapeau, a moderately open shape trimmed with ruban bayadere.
Muslin robe trimmed with two very deep embroidered flounces, a half high corsage and long tight sleeves, the upper part trimmed with volants. Organdy canezon en cœur embroidered and bordered with lace. Pink gros de Nuples chapeau, a small round shape trimmed with pink brides, and a wreath of short white flat ostrich feathers. Pink China crape scarf.
WALKING AND HOME DRESSES.
Lilac gros de Naples robe, the corsage quite high, moderately open on the bosom, and trimmed with a revers, forming collar and pelerine. The front and also that of the skirt is trimmed en militaire, with silk buttons and braiding. Tight sleeve capote of tulle bouillonne, the bouillonne formed by white and yellow gauze ribbon. The garniture is a wreath of coynes of ribbon terminated by a knot and ends. High chemisette full frilled round the throat. Green China crape scarf with richly embroidered and fringed cnds.
Penssiere gros de Naples robe, corsage a three quarter height, and long tight
sleeve. The skirt is decorated with a profusion of tucks, surmounted by a row of fancy silk trimming. Chapeau of paille guipure, a small round shape, the exterior decorated with a bouquet of white spotted feathers, the interior with coques of white ribbon. Black lace shawl.
PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESSES.
Blue and white shot taffeta robe, the corsage quite high, and disposed en gerbe. Demi large sleeves. Lace collar and ruffles. Capote of yellow crape bouillonne, a round and rather large shape, the exterior is decorated with ribbon to corres. pond, and two roses with a gerbe of foliage placed on one side; the interior with coques of ribbon.
Lilac gros de Naples robe, striped in a deeper shade of the same colour; the corsage half high behind, and very open on the bosom, displays an embroidered cambric chemisette made quite high. Sleeve a three-quarter length over muslin ones terminated by lace ruffles. The capote presents a front view of number five. Muslin scarf mantelet embroidered round the border, and very full trimmed with lace.
Rose coloured taffeta robe, high corsage tight to the shape, it folds over in festooned dents on the front, as does also the front of the skirt; three buttons to correspond are placed in the centre of each dent. Long tight sleeve. Italian stra chapeau, a small round shape trimmed with a wreath of wild flowers to which floating brides of green ribbon are attached. Black filet de soie mantelet trimmed with black lace.
Green poult de soie robe, the corsage quite high and close, is trimmed in the hussar style with buttons and braiding. Long tight sleeve, the lower part trimmed to correspond; the robe is decorated with two very deep flounces, each bordered with five rows of passementerie, and the upper one headed by three. White barege scarf. The chapcau gives a side view of number seven.