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one of the new fancy kind, for the form is only a simple scarf. The mantelets are of satin. We have seen them in black, Pomona green, and a rich golden brown. The hind part consists of one fall only, and that is very deep and rounded; it fits close round the neck, with a deep lappel forming a point on the bosom. The short wide sleeve has a bias band at the bottom, turned up to correspond with the lappel; the scarf fronts are of moderate width, they do not descend much below the knee, and are rounded at the bottom. The trimming is an effilé, either plain, and corresponding with the satin, if the lining is white; or of the two colours, if the lining is coloured.

Whatever description the mantelet or scarf may be of, the chapeau or capote is still, with few exceptions, that of summer. Open-worked fancy straw lined with gros de Naples, which we should observe has now superseded crape for lining those chapeaux, and trimmed either with pink flowers or folletts shaded with pink; rice straw and crape trimmed in an equally light style ; several of the latter are covered with white lace. In some instances, Italian and rice straw are decorated in the half season style with nouds of velvet ribbon of autumnal hues, or else autumnal flowers also of velvet. Satin chapeaux begin to appear but as yet very slowly; they will, we think, be rather prevalent in the course of the month. Some capotes that are much admired are composed of white gros de Naples bouillonné lined and edged with cherry coloured satin, and trimmed in a very novel manner with white and cherry coloured shot satin ribbon.

Some half-season silks have appeared, the majority are of the changeable kind, black, dark brown, or dark green shot with full shade of red, yellow, or some other striking colour. There is no doubt that these will be fashionable when the season is a little more advanced, but as yet summer materials are the only ones adopted for the robes, either in promenade or in-door dress. Robes peignoirs retain their vogue in demi-toilette; some are composed of foulards and decorated with fancy trimming. Others are of India muslin lined with pink or blue taffeta, embroidered en tablier, drawn each side of the front in detached patterns, each embroidery encircled with narrow lace set on full. Demi-large sleeves with mancherons and cuffs trimmed to correspond. Tarlatanes and organdy of the clearest kind are employed for evening robes. They are worn over silk; some are with double skirts, the upper one disposed en tunique. Others are trimmed with three or four flounces cut in round dents. A good many have the flounces lightly embroidered round the border in coloured silk.

Evening head dresses continue to be principally of hair decorated in the same simple stile as last month. Fashionable colours are still of light hues, but the new autumnal ones will be pinceau, the colour of the dead leaf, dark green, deep blue, orange, aventine, and deep shades of red.



No. 1.

Pink tarlatane robe over gros de naples to correspond; the corsage is high at the back, opens in a long V on the bosom, and is embroidered down the front in a broad border of spots in silk to correspond. Short wide sleeve o two falls similarly worked. The skirt is trimmed very high with flounces, embroidered in the same style, and diminishing in depth from the bottom. Ceinture of shaded ribbon. The hair is ornamented with a lace lappet attached on each side by a full blown rose and knot of pink ribbon.


No. 2.

Lavender moire robe, the corsage high and close, and long tight sleeve. The corsage, front of the skirt, and sleeves are ornamented with fancy silk trimming. Dove-coloured satin chapeau lined with pink; a round, moderately open shape; the exterior is trimmed with a long white ostrich feather and dove-coloured ribbon, the interior with pink brides.


No. 3.

Muslin robe; a high corsage, embroidered down the front and on the collar; the skirt is trimmed very high with lace flounces. Shot silk open robe; the corsage, high at the back, but opening on the bosom, is trimmed with a lappel cut in round dents, and embroidered with silk to correspond; it is continued in the robing style down the front. Chapeau Pamela of rice straw, the interior trimmed with flowers, the exterior with two long green feathers.

No. 4.

Emerald green levantine robe; a half-high corsage, trimmed with a double lappel bordered in a novel manner with rouleaus. Sleeve a three-quarter length, and easy width, with a deep turned up cuff. Muslin under-sleeve trimmed with lace. The skirt is decorated with flounces, headed and edged with rouleaus. White satin capote; a square and rather deep brim; the exterior is trimmed with folds, and a tuft of roses on each side.


No. 5.

Gray satin levantine robe ; the corsage made quite high and close to the shape,

is buttoned down the front, and edged with fancy trimming. The same garniture is contiuued down the front of the skirt. Long sleeve of an easy width; very deep cuff. Fawn-coloured gros de Tours chapeau; a long brim, rather close; the trimming is composed of ribbon to correspond, and a bouquet of green foliage.

No. 6.

'Green satin robe; the corsage, high at the back, and opening a little on the bosom, is ornamented with a pelerine lappel finished at each edge with a trimming of the same material à la vielle. Long tight sleeve, the lower part trimmed en suite. Five rows of a similar garniture decorate the skirt. Pink satin chapeau; a short round shape, the interior trimmed with ribbon, the exterior with feathers.


No. 7,

Fawn-coloured striped silk robe; a half-high corsage, and long tight sleeve, The skirt is trimmed with festooned flounces put three together; there are three rows placed at a little distance from each other. Muslin canezon en cœur trimmed with lace. Long demi-large sleeves. Chapeau Pamela of pink crape, the interior trimmed with tulle of the same hue, and long floating brides of pink and black shaded ribbon; the interior with nouds of the same. Cashmere scarf. We need only observe that it is a public promenade dress.

No. S.

Dark green striped levantine robe; corsage of the habit form, terminated by a jacket. Sleeve of a three-quarter length, and arched at the bottom. Fancy straw chapeau; a small close shape trimmed, with shaded ribbon, and a black ace veil.






NEAR the end of the Emperor Paul of Russia's reign,-that is, about the middle of the first year of the nineteenth century,-as four o'clock sounded from the church of St. Peter and St. Paul, whose golden arrow pointedover the fortress ramparts, a motley crowd were seen assembling in front of Count Tchermayloff's house. He was the ex-military commandant of a considerable town in the government of Pultava. The attention of the first passengers was called by seeing preparations making in the middle of the court-yard, for the punishment of the knout, about to be inflicted on one of the general's slaves, who filled the station of barber to the general. Although this description of punishment was by no means uncommon at St. Retersburg, it nevertheless always attracted a great number of idle persons in the neighbourhood where it occurred.*

The amateurs of these exhibitions had not long to wait for the gratification they sought;-about half-past four o'clock a young man, apparently about twenty-four years old, elegantly dressed in the uniform of an aide-de-camp, and his breast covered with military decorations of merit, appeared on the little steps raised at the bottom of the court-yard, fronting the grand entrance of the count's apartments. When there, he stopped for a moment, fixed his eyes inquiringly on a particular window hermetically sealed by

***To the honour of the present Emperor of Russia, by a very recent ukase, the punishment of the knout is entirely abolished. And it is to be hoped that such an example may shame our English legislators into the abolishment of the no less inhuman and degrading punishment of flogging, our brave fellow creatures in the army.

Nov. 1845,


silk curtains, which totally precluded the possibility of his curiosity being gratified, whatever it was. Finding it useless to continue so occupied any longer, he beckoned a bushy red-bearded man, who was standing at some distance, at the entrance door of the servants' quarter of the building. The door opened, and about twenty of the household slaves were seen advancing, who where compelled to witness the punishment of their fellow-servant, as an example likely to deter them from a similar offence and expiation. Next came the executioner of the law, and behind him the unfortunate culprit. The former was the count's coachman; the latter, as we have stated, his barber. It is probable that the coachman's skill in handling the whip upon the horses, had raised him to the honourable office of flogging men; for in general, that part is assigned to some miserable object, who undertakes the degrading employment to save himself from starving, by the receipt of a handful of small copper coin, amounting to sixpence of English money. Notwithstanding the coachman having this duty imposed upon him, it did not lessen him in the esteem of his fellow-servants; their friendship for him remained undiminished, as they well knew that his office was compulsory, and that the hand of Ivan, not his heart, was concerned in the punishment of a comrade; moreover, they well knew that hand, heart, body and all were his master's property, and consequently could be disposed of in any way the general thought fit. Another circumstance gave him some satisfaction, as well as the other servants: correction administered by Ivan was always more mild than from the hands of a paid stranger. The coachman was a good-hearted fellow, and always contrived to smuggle one or two stripes in the dozen; or if he was so narrowly watched as to be forced to give full measure, he made up for it by contriving that the plank upon which the culprit was extended should receive the greater weight of his whip, so that the painful percussion fell where it could not be felt. Ivan, in his character of executioner, was not exempt from a similar punishment, and had more than once, at former periods of his life, been the patient, and not the physician. He practically knew what was the greatest sting of the lash, and as one good turn deserves another, was laying up a stock of good-will on his own account in the event of a mutatis mutandis friendly flogging. Great as the torture was, a recollection of it rarely lasted beyond the moment;-the knouter and the knouted were, before night, as good friends as ever;— discussing over their pipes and brandy the skilful management exhibited in modifying the morning's misery.

He upon whom Ivan was this day to exercise his address and moderation, was a man about thirty-six years of age, with black flowing hair and beard; his stature about middle size. His look betrayed a Greek origin, and that

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