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LONDON FASHIONS FOR THE MONTH.
OUR article still keeps its title, and with truth; for although the fashions we present to our fair readers are worn at all the fashionable watering places and other resorts of the beau monde both at home and abroad, they are still executed by our most approved London milliners and dressmakers.
Walking costume offers us this month little room for either observation or description. Bonnets have undergone no alteration. Shawls, mantelets, and robes, generally speaking,' have varied in material only; for since the weather has increased in warmth, half transparent shawls and muslin mantelets seem in a great degree to have superseded cashmere and silk ones. We see also a number of muslin robes, both white and coloured, and several of those nearly as light of a half transparent kind, composed of fine wool. Generally speaking, walking dress is of that quiet kind, which in our opinion is at once most be coming and appropriate.
The novelties in carriage and public promenade dress are distinguished by elegant simplicity. Chapeaux and capotes of lace, crape, &c., &c., are decidedly predominant. Those of silk and Italian straw are, comparatively speaking, but little seen; but rice-straw still retains all its vogue, and a new description of fancy straw of the openwork kind has just made its appearance; the half-gipsy form has lost nothing of the vogue. We may cite among the prettiest of those that have recently appeared, some of rice-straw, the exterior trimmed with sprigs of white moss roses, and the interior of the brim with mancinis, formed of tufts of buds of the same flowers. Those of openworked straw also of the half-gipsy form, are lined with white crape; the interior trimmed with coques of white ribbon, figured with pea-green; the exterior with ribbon to correspond, and a half wreath of wild flowers. We must not forget the capotes of tulle bouillonné, the exterior trimmed with rosettes of the same material, the interior with a small tuft of wild flowers on each side. Lace shawls increase in favour, so also do lace and muslin mantelets, but not to the exclusion of silk ones; those of taffetas of light colours, particularly those of pink, blue, or green, glaced with white, are very much in vogue. One of the most in request is made with the scarf front drawn in full at the waist, so that its apparent junctions with the hind part has something of the effect of a half sleeve. We have seen the same form in organdy, trimmed with volants of the same, the garniture worked at the border in a light morning pattern, in different shades of the same colour; green, blue, and pink, are the favourite hues.
Scarfs and mantelets, even of the lightest kind, are no longer indispensable
for out-door dress; pelisse robes being nearly, if not quite as much seen. A good many are composed of taffetas, of which we have several new patterns, some striped, others shaded. The majority of these dresses are made with the corsages partially high on the back, but opening en V on the bosom; some moderately, others nearly to the waist. We observe that lappels do not seem to be so generally adopted as they were a few months ago; a fall of lace, a row of éffilé, or some other fancy ribbon very often supplies the place of a lappel, or if none of these are employed, a light embroidery in braiding or seutache is substituted. The front of the skirt is usually trimmed en suite; tight sleeves are still those most frequently adopted for silk dresses. The chemisette worn with a robe of this kind should be of cambric, beautifully embroidered; the collar deep, square, sustained round the throat by a neck-knot, and edged with Valenciennes lace. The chemisette amazone, so called because its form is the same as was fashionable with riding habits, is also a good deal in request; it is composed of fine clear cambric, small plaited, and either frilled with cambric, also small plaited, or Valenciennes lace; the collar is similarly bordered. A great many of these robes have the corsage made quite high and close; these have the front of the corsage and skirt decorated with a ruche or a garniture à la vielle.
Where the pelisse robe is composed of muslin, which is frequently the case, it is lined with coloured silk, and the sleeves are almost invariably demilarge. The majority of those adopted in public promenade dress have the corsages made high, and are trimmed down the front, from the top of the corsage to the bottom of the skirt, with butterfly bows of ribbon, small on the corsage and on the upper part of the skirt, but increasing in size as they descend. Others are decorated with a very deep fold on each side of the front; the fold is edged with lace, and the centre ornamented with small rosettes of ribbon.
Robes peignores of organdy or tarlatane are very much adopted in evening négligé. We see also several robes composed of both these materials, made with corsages à la vierge, and demi-long sleeves. These dresses, excessively simple in appearance, are, nevertheless, very expensive, being generally trimmed with lace. Another style of evening négligé, and one that seems likely to be much in request during the remainder of the season, is a robe composed of organdy or tarlatanes; the corsage half-high at the back, but opening en V on the bosom, is full behind, and arranged en gerbe in front ; the sleeves are long and demi-large; the fulness is confined by gagings at the upper part, and equally so at the wrist. We have every reason to believe that this kind of sleeve, so well adapted to the present season from its coolness, will resume its former vogue, or at least will divide it with tight sleeves. The demi-large sleeve, in its present dimensions, is equally graceful and convenient ;
but as the essence of fashion is change, it is probable that we shall soon sce it enlarged to a degree that is neither one nor the other.
Head-dresses of hair are in a decided majority; they continue to be orna. mented in the same simple style that we announced last month. Caps are also in favour; those of tulle, decorated with wreaths of flowers, so delicate both in form and texture that they seem the work of fairies, are very extensively seen. Fashionable colours have not changed materially, but we observe the lighter shades of green are more in request than last month.
PARIS FASHIONS FOR THE MONTH.
IT is to the chateaux of our nobility and the German spas that we must now look for the modes de Paris, and never were they to be seen in greater profusion, nor in a style of more elegant simplicity. A variety of new materials have made their appearance since the weather has become so intensely warm. We may cite among them several of the new summer silks for robes, as taffetas, foulards, &c., &c, particularly those plaided and shaded, and also some printed organdies, and some barèges of a slighter texture than any that has yet appeared.
Gipsy hats of fancy straw are most in vogue for the country, or for the early morning walk at the watering places; those of very fine plain white straw are also coming much into favour. The form of the chapeau remains the same, but the style of decoration is now one of extreme simplicity; exotics and other scarce and brilliant flowers have given place to those of our own fields and hedges; and where, in reality, can prettier be found? It would be difficult to say which are preferred where so many are employed, but those that we think are most extensively seen are the dog-roses, wild violets, daisies, and buttercups.
For public promenade or visits, rice-straw, crape, and tulle chapeaux continue their vogue. Our plates leave us nothing to say as to their forms or trimmings, as we have given in them all that is in any way novel this month. Lace and China crape scarfs are in a majority. Taffeta mantelets of light hues are also fashionable, but they are not so extensively seen; they are trimmed either with lace or éffilé; the latter has lost nothing of its vogue.
The breakfast dress of our élegantés in the country, or at the baths, is
now one of great simplicity; a white jaconet muslin robe, with a high corsage, finished round the top with a fall of muslin, festooned in deep dents; the skirt without trimming; the robe de chambre worn over it is composed of barège or of coloured jaconet muslin, that is of one colour only, simply bordered with a row of Valenciennes lace, or else a trimming of large hollow plaits of the material of the dress. The cap may be of cambric, a smal] close shape trimmed with narrow Valenciennes; or else a muslin caul, em】 broidered in feather-stitch, with a deep head-piece also embroidered, and terminated by floating brides of the same material.
A number of robes in half-dress are made in the open redingote form which partaking both of the peignoir and the robe, is admirably calculated for the present warm weather. These redingotes are composed of different materials; some are of muslin, either plain or embroidered; others of silks of various kinds, particularly taffetas and foulards. Some are confined at the waist by a very broad plain taffeta ribbon, the ends floating as low as the knees; the back is very full, and the fronts closed by four, six, or eight buttons; the others are trimmed with éffilés, or pearl buttons, or else with agate buttons, and rich embroidery on the skirt and the long sleeves.
Close robes, though not so extensively seen, are nevertheless still very fashionable; and warm as the weather is, those of muslin only divide the vogue with those of taffetas and foulards. It is true that the light colours and patterns of the two latter give them almost as airy an appearance as those o muslin. We may cite among the muslin robes, those with the corsages made tight; open in front, and half high on the shoulders. Some are trimmed with a triple fall of lace, so arranged that each row is somewhat narrower than the other, and being laid on flat, the trimming has the effect of a lappel The sleeves are demi-long, some nearly of the same width from bottom to top; others quite tight at the top, and exceedingly wide at the bottom; both are trimmed with lace; a single deep flounce, set on with very little fulness, is edged with lace. The majority of silk robes have the corsages made quite low and tight to the shape, with tight sleeves reaching to the elbow, but not passing below it. These robes are rendered very dressy by a lace canezon, o one of embroidered organdy or tarlatane, rising higher behind than the corsage of the dress, and opening en revers in front. Some of these canezons are made in the pelerine style, but the greater number with mancherons which has a still more dressy effect. Flounces continue their vogue, but we have no alterations to notice either in their number or their arrangement since last month.
Chapeaux of crape, tulle, and lace, are much in request for half-dress; th brims are short, round, and becomingly open; the trimmings are either o
marabouts or flowers, always of the lightest kind. The only alteration that we have to announce in fashionable colours is, that white seems this month more in request than last.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
PARIS PROMENADE DRESSES.
Azure blue striped foulard robe, a high corsage, opening en V on the bosom, and trimmed with a revers covered with a novel kind of passementerie. Very short sleeves, finished at the bottom with two folds; long muslin sceve, demi-long to the elbow, and from thence arranged in four rows of bouillonné ; the skirt is trimmed with two bias flounces, the upper one terminated by blue ribbon arranged à la vielle. Black lacc chapeau, a very open shape,the interior decorated in a very light style, with pink floating brides and small flowers; the exterior with a full-blown rose, a tuft of foliage and a lace drapery. Embroidered chemisette made quite high. A black lace scarf is generally adopted with this dress.
Slate-coloured poult de soie robe, the corsage quite high and tight to the shape; long tight sleeve. White crape capote, a dome crown and round brim, upon which the material is fluted ;fthe fulness is confined by green ribbon round the edge, and at the bottom of the crown; long floating brides complete the garniture. Scarf mantelet of Pomona green gros de naples, it is somewhat smaller than the usual size; it is trimmed with volants of the same, that on the upper part forming a revers on the corsage of the robe.
MORNING CONCERT DRESSES.
Muslin robe peignoir lined with pink gros de naples; the corsage made quite up to the throat with a small falling collar, which is edged with lace, is