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a cap composed of three pieces of black lace and velvet; it is trimmed on one side with sprigs of small red flowers. Another novelty, but one of a very splendid description, is the echarpeturban; it is a scarf of white lace, with the pattern wrought in gold or silver, and intermingled with coloured velvet; it is arranged in the turban style, and forms indeed one of the most elegant that we have seen. In fact the turban or demi-turban is decidedly the reigning coiffure of the season, or rather we ought to say they are the reigning coiffures, for their forms are quite distinct: the first composed either of cachemere, velvet, point lace, or the magnificent materials we have cited above, is calculated only for full dress, and generally speaking, becoming only to majestic beauties. The demi-turban, more dressy than splendid, may be said to be generally becoming. The foundation is formed of two rouleaus, through which the hair passes, and it is usually dressed in such a manner as to display its luxuriance; the front is arranged very low, and is ornamented only with a twisted end, which floats at each side. We should observe that the demi-turbans are always composed of velvet, and the ends bordered with a light gold or silver fringe. We have no change to announce in fashionable colours this month.
THE promenades present us as yet with very few demi saison toilettes, however they increase in favour daily, but as yet afford no actual novelty, being merely silk or satin pelisses, trimmed with black lace; or short mantles either of satin or velvet, bordered with swansdown or chenille fringe, and worn over silk dresses. If the trimming is swansdown, the boa corresponds, but otherwise it is of sable. Satin bonnets are decidedly in a majority, but a small one, for velvet and velours epingle are still in vogue. The most elegant of the latter are white, trimmed with white feathers, shaded with rose or cherry colour, and white satin ribbons, shot with a corresponding shade of red.
It is the season for balls; and this year they are more than usually numerous and brilliant, so that in fact the talents of our fashionable modestes and centurieres are put in requisition for ball dresses, almost to the exclusion of everything else. Hitherto light materials have been in a majority for robes; but
altogether those of organdy, tulle, and lace predominate. We see also a good many of satin, and even of velours epingle; but these latter are of such delicate colours, and trimmed in such a light style, that they have a very elegant effect. The antique style, or as it is now called, style of the renaissance, not only continues in vogue, but even increases; for the point of the corsage is sharper and deeper, and the sous jupe has swelled to a rorotundity imitating that of the hoop. Several of the tulle and organdy dresses are made with double skirts; the under one of the robe form; the upper en tunique, with the corners rounded, and much shorter than the under dress, which we must observe is always worn over a satin slip. Some of these dresses have the tunic, and also the border of the robe trimmed with a broad biais of the material of the dress, headed by a chef d'or. The corsage is also trimmed with a biais disposed en mantille round the back and shoulders, but forming a cœur in front, diminishing in size as it descends, so that it is excessively narrow as it approaches the point of the cœur: this trimming is also headed with a chef d'or, and the biais which terminates the short tight sleeve in the form of a Maintenon ruffle, is headed en suite. Other dresses have only a very deep hem, which is surmounted by an embroidery in coloured silks; and a good many are ornamented with a wreath of roses without foliage, or else of velvet foliage. We should observe that where the robe and tunic are of the same material, the garniture of the former always corresponds with that of the latter; but if the tunic is of lace, and the robe of satin, which frequently happens, the latter is very seldom trimmed, but the former is ornamented with flowers; they loop the fronts of the skirt in the drapery style, are placed en gerbe on the front of the corsage, and disposed in various ways upon the sleeves.
Ball head-dresses are mostly of hair; it continues to be arranged very low behind, either in a full round knot, or one formed of platter braides, the ends of which are curled, and float upon the neck; the front hair may be dressed either in bands or ringlets, but the latter are in a large majority. The ornaments most in favour for these coiffures are velvet flowers; but fancy jewellery, marabouts, and velvet ribbons are also in vogue. So also are coral ornaments, particularly cameos in coral. Nothing can have a more elegant effect than these cameos inserted in a wreath of gold vine leaves, exquiquisitely wrought in a light and elegant style. There is no decided change in fashionable colours this month, but light hues are in the ascendant.
WHITE satin under dress; the skirt bordered with a bouillonnée of the same. Lace robe; the skirt is a little shorter than the satin one, very open in front, and looped back on each side by a tuft of wild flowers. Low corsage deeply pointed, tight to the shape, and trimmed with a pelerine turning back en schall, and a wreath of wild flowers down the centre of the breast. Short sleeves terminated by a bouillon, and a Maintenon ruffle, and looped by flowers. The hair disposed in soft bands at the sides, and a knot at the back of the head, is ornamented with a diamond ferroniere, a gold comb, and a small green velvet scarf fringed with gold, the latter is attached at the sides by diamond pins. A plume of feathers on the left side completes the coiffure.
Tulle robe over white satin; the skirt is bordered with a wreath of flowers. The corsage low and pointed, with short tight sleeves, is composed of pink satin, and trimmed with blond lace. Head dress of hair, ornamented with a wreath and gerbe of flowers.
VERY pale pink satin robe, low corsage en gerbe, and short sleeve covered with a triple fall of Brussels lace; the corsage, sleeves, and one side of the skirt are decorated with flowers : they are intermingled on the latter with knots and bands of ribbon. A ceinture with floating ends completes the ornaments of the dress. The coiffure is composed of Brussels lace arranged in the style of a cap front, but without a caul, and trimmed with pink ribbon.
PEA green satin robe; corsage drapé, the folds are retained in the centre by a gerbe of white roses. Short sleeve, covered with a triple fall of Mechlin lace; the lower row forming a manchette. The skirt is trimmed with two lace flounces disposed round the back in waves, and looped to a point on each side of the front by a knot of ribbon, and a bouquet of flowers. The hair is ornamented with a wreath of green vine leaves intermingled with two white ostrich feathers which, droop low on each side.