turned towards the south; if for the grand, towards the north. . . . Hence, when the sun is setting in summer far to the north-west, it is seen, by the spectator from the shores or breast of Winandermere, resting among the summits of the loftiest mountains, some of which will perhaps be half or wholly hidden by clouds, or by the blaze of light which the orb diffuses around it; and the surface of the lake will reflect before the eye correspondent colours through every variety of beauty, and through all degrees of splendour." (Scenery of the Lakes.)

We have said that the visitant will find it most profitable to confine his attention to the upper part of Windermere. By means however of the steam-boat which now plies upon it, the space between Newbybridge, at the foot of the lake, and Bowness, can be traversed with a small expenditure of time, and the scenery be viewed as well as such scenery can be in such a manner. We can avouch that from a yacht or wherry the lower reach yields many lovely scenes such as elsewhere would command loud praise. The rounded tops of Gomershow and the Cartmell fells on the right bank, and the fells above Granthwaite, with the loftier peaks that rise from behind them, on the left, form a constant succession of new and agreeable combinations, especially as they are repeated with a softer lustre in the clear water; while northwards the mountains in the far-distance, that circle the head of the lake, are ever growing in magnitude as we advance; and with the holms, as the islets are called that lie so gracefully on the bosom of the lake, ever render the view in that direction & delightful one. Chiefly is it delightful where Silver Holm and Berkshire Island form a principal feature in the prospect; and the bold promontory of Rawlinson's Nab, shooting far into the quiet lake, imparts vigour of character to the nearer parts and a more aërial grace to the distance. From the fells on either side of this lower half of the lake, too, many very fine prospects may be obtained, and along the shores lie many a pleasant little nook. But we hasten to Bowness. Before proceeding farther, the village itself calls for a cursory notice: it would repay a careful survey. Bowness is the 'port of Windermere.' The houses lie clustered in a most picturesque manner, whether we look upon them from the land or the lake. They are pretty much of the general Westmoreland fashion, built of rough limestone covered with rough-cast, roofed with large slates, and having the curious tall circular chimney-shaft, or some other of those peculiar forms that give so characteristic a finish to the houses in these parts. The church is a weather-beaten old pile, whose venerable appearance well accords with, and, indeed, deepens, the general impression of the surrounding scenery. In the east window is preserved some curious stained glass which originally belonged to the east window of Furness Abbey. In the churchyard, close by this window, is a monument to the memory of the excellent Richard Watson, Bishop of Llandaff. Bowness is a village of fishermen, who in the season act as boat

men and guides; and it is the head-quarters of the lake-sailing and rowing regattas. The bay has, consequently, a cheerful, bustling appearance, far beyond that of any other place along the banks of Windermere. Generally, during the season, it is alive with every kind of pleasure-boat; and hence, along with its natural beauty, which has caused the erection of numerous villas about it, it has a remarkably gay and attractive air. Bowness contains a first-rate hotel, and is much resorted to by lake tourists.

The most comprehensive views of the lake are obtained from the heights about Bowness. It is not easy to say which is the finest ; but perhaps the best general view is that from Rayrigg-bank. Noble woods are in the foreground; beyond is the clear, smooth lake, with its islets, and fleets of pleasure-skiffs; and all around is a belt of magnificent mountains. Infinite are the pictures which they form, as one or another is looked upon as the principal object of the composition. Now the bare, rugged pikes of Langdale are the central group, with Coniston Old Man, and Loughrigg-fell, on either side, and Wrynose and Hardknot are below; and the lake images them all with a softened grace on its dark pool-like surface. As we look upwards, the broad liquid expanse lies stretched out fully at our feet, and sinking away, in appearance, into the Fairfieldridge: again the Belle Isle and Lady Holm give the tone to the landscape; and the woods beyond, and the varying outline of Furness-fells, complete the picture. But every change of season, and every hour in the day, presents them under a fresh aspect. Always beautiful as is the prospect from Rayrigg, the perfection of its beauty is when an October sun pours over the scene the full glory of his parting beams, and not only decks the sky with hues of crimson and gold, but lights up the mountains with a splendour, and invests the lake in a richness, beyond what imagination has ever conceived. (Cut, No. 3.)

Not far beyond Rayrigg is Elleray, a spot that will ever be dear to every lover of Windermere, whether tourist or dweller in the 'Land of Lakes,' on account of its gifted inhabitant, Professor Wilson,--to whom, perhaps, Windermere owes more of its fame than any one else-Wordsworth hardly excepted. The house lies embowered among rich woods, and has a glorious prospect-only inferior, if it be inferior, to Rayrigg. Wilson himself says of it, "Windermere, seen by sunset from the spot where we now stand, Elleray, is at this moment the most beautiful scene on earth. The charm lies in its entirety-its unity, which is so perfect-so seemeth it to our eyes—that 'tis in itself a complete world-of which not one line could be altered without disturbing the spirit of beauty that lies recumbent there, wherever the earth meets the sky. There is nothing here fragmentary; and had a poet been born, and bred here all his days, nor known aught of fair or grand beyond this liquid vale, yet had he sung truly and profoundly of the shows of nature." (Recreations.)

But while the residence of Wilson is what gives so

We have conducted the tourist along the road from Bowness to Ambleside. This part he must not omit to go over. If he have time and inclination he may continue the route round the head of the lake, and along the Western side, by Pull Wyke and Low Wray, to Sawrey, and so on to the Ferry. The breezy Furness fells will afford an ample supply of stations' from which may be obtained extensive prospects; and the Fairfield and Rydal ranges with Kirkstone, Highstreet, and Hill Bell, will form a grand mountain background to the lake, and Wansfell and Rayrigg rising from it. A short detour might here be made to the pretty little lake of Esthwaite Water; and to Hawkshead, a respectable old town, with a grammar-school, from which have proceeded many eminent men, chief among whom is William Wordsworth.

But whatever is left unaccomplished, an excursion on the Lake must not be of the number. Among the English lakes Windermere confessedly stands unrivalled for the beautiful variety of scenery that greets him who sails along it. Only from its surface can the marvellous beauty of the lake and the surrounding country be adequately comprehended. It hardly seems possible, indeed, that the beautiful in Lake scenery could excel that from the bosom of Windermere. A boat and an intelligent boatman may be easily procured; and the casual visitor will do well, perhaps, to trust to the experienced boatman to conduct him to the more celebrated points-but he must use well his own eyes everywhere. At every turn of the lake, at every tack of the boat, some new beauty is discernible. Supposing the boat to be hired at Ambleside, the best way will be to sail leisurely along, enjoying the softer scenery of the southward prospect in going, and, reserving for the return, the magnificent views that meet the northward gaze. We shall leave the views undescribed. The boatman will name the fells and peaks, and particularize the several villas-all that may be learnt in the first part of the ride. In returning no one will care to have his attention called off from the contemplation of the magnificent unity of effect that is before him, to consider the several parts of which it is made up.

A morning should be spent on the lake. Sailing southward, you have a succession of the sweetest little scenes that can be desired. Every one is of the most perfect simplicity, but also of perfect beauty :-a wide reach of clear blue water, streaked with long lines of silver-sprinkled with little islands of the most verdant green, and girded by uplands with hanging woods of

"Sister isles, that smile Together like a happy family Of beauty and of love,"

as a true poet has called them, and you may land on the chief one. Belle Isle has an area of thirty acres, and is most pleasantly laid out, and there is a neat summer residence upon it: the views from Belle Isle are very beautiful. One of the smaller islands in the upper reach-it lies opposite to Rayrigg-is called Lady Holm, from a chapel that once stood upon it, dedicated to the Virgin; it was a 'cell' belonging to Furness Abbey, and a priest was attached to the chapel. The establishment was suppressed, with all similar foundations, in the reign of Henry VIII.; and now not a vestige of the building is left. Two pretty little islets are called the 'Lilies of the Valley,' a name that aptly announces their modest loveliness. Of the cluster of islands about half-a-dozen lie in the lower reach of Windermere. The principal of these are Berkshire Island and Silver Holm, but all must be passed, as the tourist should weather, if he does not land at, Rawlinson's Nab. A sail thus far, on a fine breezy morning, will have assuredly won for our traveller a good appetite; and he may here satisfy its cravings. It will be necessary to land at the Ferry-house for the sake of the views from the pleasure-house, called the 'Station,' just by; and by the time that is visited lunch will be ready. The views from the 'Station' are among the most celebrated on Windermere, and they deserve their celebrity. Bowness looks well across the lake. The islands group admirably together, and unite in a charming manner with the opposite banks. Carrying the eye eastward and along to the north, the whole range of mountains, from Orrest Head to Fairfield, are projected nobly against the sky. And then, blending all in harmony, there lies below the blue expanse of tranquil lake. Wilson has sketched the views from the Station' with a firm hand, and with more of amplitude than any others; but the mere mention of them must suffice here: it must be added, however, that most visitors find amusement in looking through the stained glass windows, which are intended to exhibit the scenery as affected by the various seasons, from the 'glad light green,' as Chaucer calls it, of early Spring, through Summer and Autumn to the snows of Winter.

We will

"Commend us-on a tour-to lunch and dinner in one. 'Tis a saving both of time and money-and of all the dinner-lunches, that ever were set upon a sublunary table, the facile principes are the dinner-lunches you may devour in the White Lion, Bowness." not dispute this point. It may easily be tested. The boat will run across to Bowness in the briefest space, and mine host's "leading-article,-a cold round of beef or a veal pie," with its necessary additaments, may be at once put to what philosophers call," the experiment

critical."

Returning towards Ambleside, the views are as grand as those in the other direction were lovely. The very hills, that rise from the sides of the lake, seem to have a wilder air than when we passed by them the other way. At any rate they are very fine, and accord well with the bold masses beyond. Rich woods climb up the steep slopes, and run along every projecting ledge, contrasting strongly with the bare masses of crag that stand here and there in full relief; tiny rills steal, like threads of silver, down the dark channels they have worked in the fell sides, now lost in the gloom, or hidden by the foliage, and presently glittering in the full sunshine; and, above all, soar the lofty summits of the more distant mountains, with the soft vapoury mists playing about them-one moment forming into a visible cloud, and the next dissolved, the eye can scarcely trace how, and the blue sky, for miles beyond, clear from the slightest film of vapour. But it is to the two separate magnificent mountain-masses, at the head of the lake, that the nobleness of this returning view is mainly owing. Fairfield, especially, appears to stretch out its mighty arms to receive the lake within its embrace. In the morning, when the centre of this majestic range is a heavy mass of gloom, the effect is almost sublime; when the mid-day sun enlightens almost every part, it is less imposing; but it regains all its impressiveness as it darkens in the shades of evening. If a night be spent at Windermere, there should be a journey made on the lake by night. If it be by moonlight, the remembrance of it will be imperishable. Wonderful is the transformation that the scenery undergoes. What seemed to be incapable of change without a lessening of its beauty, under the magic influence of the pale light assumes a new and more surprising loveliness; while the grander scenes become almost solemn. It is usual for parties, if there be a musician amongst them, to carry a bugle or cornet at such times, and, when well played, the sound, heard at a distance over the quiet water, and reverberated from innumerable mountain-echoes, is exceedingly delightful. "And when there came a pause of silence," many have felt at such a time somewhat of the influ ence Wordsworth has described:

"Then, sometimes, in that silence, while he hung
Listening, a gentle shock of mild surprise
Has carried far into his heart the voice
Of mountain-torrents; or the visible scene
Would enter unawares upon his mind
With all its solemn imagery, its rocks,

Its woods, and that uncertain heaven received
Into the bosom of the steady lake."

But moonlight is not necessary to enjoy an evening sail upon our lake. On a clear bright summer night nothing can be more delicious than, with a dear companion, to

"Go floating in our pinnace through the isles
Of wooded Windermere, the river-lake,
Hung for awhile between two worlds of stars!"
(Wilson," Furness Abbey.")

A day is sufficient to see somewhat of the loveliness, and somewhat, too, of the majesty of Windermere; and if the tourist employs his time judiciously, and does not fear labour, he may manage to visit most of the more celebrated points about it. But many days would be required properly to see its numerous bays and promontories, to ascend the surrounding fells and enjoy the most eminent prospects, and to explore, as they merit to be explored, the several divergent valleys, with the magnificent mountains that arise from them and then he may be assured that in one visit, at whatever season it might be made and with whatever zeal he might prosecute his researches, he would be very far indeed from exhausting its almost infinite riches. Wilson has said "Live by it fifty years and by degrees you may have come to know something worth telling of Windermere." This is of course to be taken with some grains of allowance, but it is true in spirit. To know Windermere it must have been seen under every aspect, and with somewhat of the frequency and familiarity of daily social intercourse.Oh! si angulus ille!

But our tourist will not confine his attention wholly to the lake. He will of course look around Ambleside, though there is not much in the little town to attract attention. Ambleside was a Roman station, and a few Roman remains have been occasionally found there. From the earliest date there are records of its existence as an English town, but it bears few marks of its antiquity. It is worth noticing, however, that it is one of the very few places in which the ancient custom is preserved of bearing rushes to the church to strew the stalls with on the Dedication Day. Wordsworth has devoted one of his Ecclesiastical Sonnets as a tributary lay to this day of annual joy'——

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"When forth by rustic music led,

The village children, while the sky is red
With evening lights, advance in long aray
Through the still church-yard, each with garland gay,
That carried sceptre-like, o'ertops the head
Of the proud bearer."

It may easily be imagined how beautiful and even touching such a procession must be amid such scenery. The houses of Ambleside are mostly of a humble character, but a few of them are picturesque-some are eminently so, as, for example, the mill on the beck, with its old fashioned projections and unwieldy machinery. The lion of Ambleside, however, is StockGhyll-force. It is within private grounds, but the key may be obtained at the Salutation Inn. The force (which is the Westmoreland word for a waterfall) is about seventy feet high, and is broken by three or four ledges. When there is plenty of water it is rather a fine object, especially if viewed from below the falls;