Teriakis, or opium-eaters-An experiment with the drug-its effects on the imagination-grandeur and horror of its dreams- Walls of the city-Intentions of Russia-Grave of Ali of Ya- Caloyer and his deathless fish-The Seven Towers-Imprison- ment of foreign ambassadors-Arabian story-teller-Habits of Navy yard and national ships-Memory of William Eckford- Introduction to the Capudan pasha-Powers of his office- Valley of sweet waters-Repose of the scenery-Party of la- dies-Conflagration of a villagc-A Greek girl and her Beauty of the Bosphorus-Tragical associations-Tower of Ma- homet-Godfrey's tent-Janizary surrogee-Village of Bel- Sultan's attendance at Mosque-Royal barges-Worship of the Mussulman-Assemblage of Turkish ladies-Their personal The Mussulman in his treatment of his Mother-in commercial transactions-in private life-in a public station-in misfortune -in the disguise of his feelings-in attachments to ancient usa- 103 120 132 148 The life coveted by a Mussulman-Stillness of a Turkish town- Inferences of the stranger-Love of show-Capabilities of the Turk-His conjugal habits-Inconsistencies in his character.. 162 Destruction of the Janizaries-Means employed to effect it-their final deportment-Features in the present government of Tur- key-Character of Sultan Mahmoud-Spirit of his reforms... 173 Departure from Constantinople-Plain of Troy-Ancient remains Opinion of travellers-Arguments of a lady-Vigils of a night Gulf of Argos-Reported loss of the frigate-Storied features of the Argolic plain-Trait in woman-Tomb of Agamemnon- Town of Napoli-Appearance of the place-Gayety of the inhab- itants-Paganini of Greece-Island of Hydra-Wildness of its Island of Egina-Softness of its scenery-Twilight ramble-As- pect of the town-College and Museum-Visit to the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius-Sites of sacred edifices-One's native village-"Maid of Athens”—Officer of the Greek army........ 229 Athens-Ascent of the Acropolis-The Parthenon-beauty of its architecture-present condition-impressions it makes on the spectator-Erectheum-delicacy of its proportions-violence it has suffered-The Pandrosea-singularity of its origin-Horo- logium-failure of the artist-Lantern of Demosthenes-elo- Athens Sunset from the Acropolis-Traits of the Athenians-Ob- jects of their superstition-Person, costume, and habits of the Females-Domestic peculiarities of the mother-Female wri- ters-their attempt at great themes-Traits of the men-Phy- sical and moral qualities-Period and objects of marriage 272 Athens-Moral influence of her memorials-Features of the revo- lution-Conduct of the Greeks-Their future prospects-Char- ges brought against them-Intellectual and moral claims of the Turks and Greeks compared-Genius of the two nations con- Departure from Athens-Feelings on leaving Greece-Reasons for writing this Journal-Armenian bride-Entertainment on board ship-Sentiment of an Athenian gentleman-Washing- PREFACE. THE situation in which the following pages were written must be my apology for any faults in style, any errors in matter, which they may contain. They were written at sea, from hasty notes taken at the places to which they refer, without any aid from the observation of other travellers, or the assistance of a common guide book, or any access to historical records. They were written amid the ceaseless noise and systematized confusion which prevail on board a man-of-war; the lively conversation of the ward-room officers in one ear, the prattle of the pantry boys in the other; the echoing tread of sailors over head; on a table lashed down to prevent its being capsized, in a chair secured with lanyards against the force of the ship's lurch, and with the manuscript tacked to its place to escape the fate which befell the Sybilline leaves. This is no fancy picture: any one who has been at sea, and especially they who have traversed the ocean in an armed ship, can attest the sobriety of the sketch, and also appreciate the embarrassments which such a situation imposes. But, notwithstanding these unfavorable circumstances, I humbly trust the reader will find something in the following pages that may compensate him for the time spent in the perusal. If I did not think so, I would cast the manuscript into the fire, for its publication could only injure me, without benefiting him. The man betrays but little sense who speaks when there are none to listen, and still less when what he says is to be condemned for its stupidity or errors. But I hope the reader will find, among the lighter sketches of this narrative, some of the habits, customs, and characteristic traits of the Turk and Greek brought into prominent relief. If I have utterly failed on these points, I will not now fall back upon the strength of any reserved forces. Phæton soared at the sun, and fell into the strangling waves of the Eridanus; but as my attempt has not been quite so ambitious, my fall may perhaps be less disastrous. But I would not vainly stir expectation: to tell the plain truth, I wrote this unpretending book for my own pleasure and advantage, and I now publish it for the pos sible pleasure and advantage of the reader. As for pecuniary considerations, I should have reluctantly submitted to the drudgery of correcting the proof sheets for any thing it may avail me in that form; and as for literary celebri. ty, the book itself will drop, in a few months, from the expanse of the public mind, silently as a pebble sinks through the surface of a sleeping lake. The reader, who may have honored "Ship and Shore" with a perusal, will perceive that this book, though separate and distinct in its topics, is yet a continuation of that humble effort. The subjects which remain, as connected with our cruise in the Mediterranean, upon which I pro. pose to touch in a future volume, relate to Italy. I took |