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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Smyrna and the Constellation-Condition on Board an
English Yacht-Storm off Metelin-Loss of Spars and
Provisions-Tenedos and the Strand of Ilium-Beat-
ing up the Dardanelles-Scenery, Towns, and Fortifica-
tions of the Shore-Passage of Leander and Xerxes—
Pliny's Aerolite-Sea of Marmora-First View of Con-
stantinople-Apprehensions on Landing-A Night
Scene
PAGE
17
CHAPTER II.
Janizary-Cavash-Fate of Hallet Effendi-Stratagem of
Mahomet - Capture of Constantinople - The Silver
Sofa-Palace of the Sultan-His Wives, Odalisques,
Guards, Garden-The Sultan shooting an Arrow-
Conversation with him-His personal Appearance·
Prevalence of the Plague
CHAPTER III.
Visit to the Royal Mosques-St. Sophia-Mosque of Ach-
met-Of Sultan Solyman-Tomb of its Founder-
Mosque of Osman-Church and State-Mausoleums
41
of Ottoman Princes-Antiquities of the At-meidan-
Egyptian Obelisk-Marble Pyramid-Delphic Column
-Marcian's Pillar-Sports of the Djerid-City Fount-
ains-Artificial Lakes-Subterranean Structures—Ap-
pearance of Bazars-Merchandise of the East-Habits
of the Females-Sister of the Sultan-Khans of the
City-Turkish Bath-Sale of a Georgian-Condition
of a purchased Girl ..........
56
CHAPTER IV.
Teriakis, or Opium-eaters-An Experiment with the Drug
-Its Effects on the Imagination-Grandeur and Horror
of its Dreams-Walls of the City-Intentions of Rus-
sia-Grave of Ali of Yanina-Traits of this fierce
Pasha-Treachery connected with his Death-Caloyer
and his deathless Fish-The Seven Towers-Imprison-
ment of Foreign Ambassadors—Arabian Story-teller—
Habits of the Mussulman-Birds of the Bosphorus-
Objects of a Turk's Humanity-The great Cemetery of
Scutari
CHAPTER V.
Navy-yard and National Ships-Memory of William Eck-
ford-Introduction to the Capudan Pasha-Powers of
his Office-Valley of Sweet Waters-Repose of the
Scenery-Party of Ladies-Conflagration of a Village
-A Greek Girl and her blind Father-Moral Effects of
the Plague-Fires in the Turkish Capital
......
CHAPTER VI.
Beauty of the Bosphorus-Tragical Associations-Tower
of Mahomet-Godfrey's Tent-Janizary Surrogee-
Village of Belgrade-Circle of Greek Girls-Supersti-
tion of a Dervish-Simplicity of Religion-Man's last
Sleep..
127
CHAPTER VII.
Sultan's Attendance at Mosque-Royal Barges-Worship
of the Mussulman-Assemblage of Turkish Ladies-
Their personal Appearance-Social Amusements.
Early Education-Matrimonial Alliance-Ruling Pas-
sion-Conjugal Traits-The Mussulman in his Treat-
ment of his Mother-In commercial Transactions-In
private Life-In a public Station-In Misfortune-In
the disguise of his Feelings-In attachments to an-
cient Usages-In an ignominious Death.....
..140
CHAPTER VIII.
The Life coveted by a Mussulman-Stillness of a Turkish
Town-Inferences of the Stranger-Love of Show-
Capabilities of the Turk-His Conjugal Habits-Incon-
sistencies in his Character-Destruction of the Jani-
zaries-Means employed to effect it-Their final Deport-
ment-Features in the present Government of Turkey
-Character of Sultan Mahmoud-Spirit of his Re-
forms.....
172
CHAPTER IX.
Departure from Constantinople-Plain of Troy-Ancient
Remains - Opinion of Travellers - Arguments of a
Lady Vigils of a Night on the Plain-Visit to
Helen's Fount-Ruins of Alexandria Troas-A gloomy
Greek-Mental Tortures
192
CHAPTER X.
Gulf of Argos-Reported Loss of the Frigate-Storied
Features of the Argolic Plain-Trait in Woman—
Tomb of Agamemnon-Fortress of Napoli-Love of
the Marvellous-Discovery of Eve's Monument-In-
scription-Antiquarian Rapture
208
CHAPTER XI.
Town of Napoli-Appearance of the Place-Gayety of the
Inhabitants-Paganini of Greece-Island of Hydra-
Wildness of its Features-Habits of the Men-Cos-
tume of the Ladies-Religious Services on board Ship
-Qualifications of a Chaplain of the Navy-Passage
to Egina-Softness of its Scenery-Twilight Ramble
-Aspect of the Town-College and Museum--Visit
to the Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius-Sites of sacred
Edifices-One's native Village-"Maid of Athens "-
Officer of the Greek Army....
223