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For JUNE, 1809.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.
No. 1.-A WALKING DRESS.
of white satin, with laurel border and spray, in pale-blue or pea green foil; a round white feather, frosted with silver, drooping towards the right side. A gold elastic neck chain, with Maltese cross of Cornelian and pearl. Hoop earrings, armlets, and bracelets to correspond. Slippers of pale-blue or pea green kid, rucked below the elbow. White Opera
ON THE MOST APPROVED
A round high gown of fine French cambric, made a walking length, and finished at the feet with lace and needle work; Union front, and plaited collar, ornamented with the same. Elastic girdle with buckle or clasp of gold or cut steel. A Turkish coat of clear, worked || fan of crape, wrought in antique devices of muslin, leno, or patent net, trimmed entirely silver. round with scalloped lace, with appliqued seams of the same; and lined with apricot, pale salmon, or primrose ́ sarsuet; flowing open in front of the figure, in form of the Turkish robe, with a deep lappelled cape. A Wardle hat of fine straw, with conical, or beehive crown, ornamented with some delicately contrasted flower. Chinese parasol of lilac sarsnet, with deep Eastern awning. Shoes and gloves of pea- green kid. We take occasion to remark that the trimming up of the hat should be more convex, and a little deeper in front, and that it should be worn more to one side, and forward in front. The parasol strikes us as being more correct when chosen of the same colour as the lining of the Coat or the shoes.
No. 2.-EVENING, OR FULL DRESS.
THE sudden transition from cold to heat since our last communication, has necessarily introduced an entire revolution in female attire. Even the sarsnet pelisse and shawl robe is considered as of too substantial a texture for the extreme heat which at present pervades our atmosphere; but as there are still to be seeu some few of these articles amidst the lighter diversity, we shall proseed in our accustomed course, and begin with a description of those out-door habiliments which rank highest in the scale of fashion and elegance.
Pelisses and coats (whether of sarsnet or A white under dress of gossamer satin, em- muslin) exhibit little novelty in their conbroidered at the feet and round the bottom of struction; they are much less fanciful than in the sleeves, with a laurel border of pale-blue former seasons, being formed chiefly in plain or pea-green foil. A Gallician robe, with demi-French coats, or wrapt towards one side, and train of pale-blue or pea-green crape, vellum flowing in a demi-robe on the other. The gause or leno; the edges finished with broad sleeves are made very full, and somtimes-with double foldings and cord. A full Circassian an antique cuff; the collar high in honeycomb sleeve, looped up with Cornelian brooches and or puckers, and rounded to a point at the front cord; loose triangular bosom, ornamented at of the throat, where it is confined with a large the central point with correspondent tassel. brooch or rich cord and tassel. The skirt in A short pointed drapery flowing from the right trimmed entirely round, and being only fastshoulder towards the knee, rounded on the left, || ened at the throat or waist, flows open at the and festooned near the bottom with bows or influence of the passing breeze. We have ob rosetts the colour of the robe. A small French || served a few curricle coats, but to these we cau tippet, or half-handkerchief of lace, thrown give no place in a tasteful selection. Short negligently across the back and falling over Spanish cloaks, French tippets, Austrian scarfs the left shoulder. The Austrian helmet hat with new variegated Spanish binding, also the No. XLV. Vol. VI.
cloak Alcantara, of figured net or coloured garsnet, with wrought border, are observed amidst the endless variety. Round gowns of coloured sarsnet, chiefly pea-green, grey, and dove-colour, with small Jockey bonnets of the same, with lace shirts and scarfs, or French cloaks, are distinguishable amidst the gay diversity of Kensingtou-gardens and the fashionable drives.
muslin, or leno, when formed in colours, it is particularly adapted. We will endeavour to describe, for the benefit of our fair readers, two dresses in this style, which were worn by females of unquestionable rank and elegance on a late splendid occasion. These robes were round, with demi-traius, and formed of white Venetian net, worn over white sarsuet; the short sleeve of the loose Turkish construction, embroidered at the edge in a narrow and delicate border of silver violets, corresponding with the broader one which decorates the robe at the feet. To one dress was attached a long sleeve of celestial blue satin, with silver embroidered cuffs; a stomacher of the same, richly spangled and bordered; shoes of blue satin, with silver embroidered toes. The other dress only varied in having long sleeves of primrose satin, with cuffs of silver embroidery as above; and instead of the stomacher it had a hodice of the same material, cut low round the bosom, and sitting close to the form, edged and laced in front with silver cord; a girdle and buckle to correspond; a tucker of fine scalloped lace placed above the edge of the bodice in front, discreetly shaded the bosom, which would with this dress be otherwise indecorously exposed; the shoes were formed of primrose kid, with silver rosetts and bindings. Each of these fair fashionables wore their hair in the Grecian style, with combs and coronets of pearl; which delicate article was also blend
Narrow net scarfs, or cymars of black, white, or purple net, elegantly embroidered in gold or silver, are an elegant appendage to the full dress, as well as an appropriate and becoming shade to the shoulders. The Spanish hat is now entirely exploded by our fashionables, an attempt to introduce it as a summer walking hat has not succeeded. The Cottage and Mountain bonnet of matted straw, is considered most gentcel for the fair and modest pedes. | trian. The following are also considered as highly fashionable articles in the line:-the small round hat of fine straw, with round crown and high crescent or tiara front of moss straw; small coloured silk bonnets with square ends; small Gipsy hats of chip, with yeoman crown and wreaths, and bunches of ivy or barberry blossom; coloured silk caps, with appliqued lace in various fanciful directions, with|| three tiers of plaited ribband.in front in form of a tiara, a short lace veil suspended from the verge; the quartered cap of lace, with a bunch of spring or corn flowers in front, or an edging and ornament of beads, with a large square anded with the sapphire and topaz, which formed transparent veil negligently thrown over the whole bust, each of these articles comprise much appropriate elegance.
Dress gowns are frequently very fancifully constructed; the white gown, which has of late been so much exploded in full dress, is now regaining its place in that species of costume. If the walking dress be coloured, the pelisse or mantle should be formed of white muslin, leno, or net, of the lightest texture; and these latter articles in colours, with a simple white gown, have a lively and animated effect. The morning dress is more frequently and properly formed of fine white cambric or muslin, with lace or needle work introduced in various directions; the fronts in the Armeni an, military, or spenser style; the gaged wag. goner's sleeve and collar; the Bishop's ditto, with antique lace cuffs, or wrist-band and ruffle of lace, are in high estimation, and with this style of habiliment have a somewhat unique and attractive effect. The stomacher front still maintains its station, both in the morning and full dress, and we do not recollect any orpamental construction that comprises more Becoming qualities; to the full dress of white
their necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. Nothing could exceed the cool and seasonable elegance of these very beautiful and attractive || habiliments. The coloured bodice is lately become a very favourite appendage to the evening dress, or dinner party; and it is certainly an uncommonly animated and wellchosen decoration; they are formed in varions shades, suited to the taste and inclination of the several wearers, but those already mentioned, and others of white, parple, or green satin, laced and edged with gold, have the most pleasing and attractive effect. The waist is not worn of an ungraceful length by any but those females who, to court distinction, ruu hastily into every extreme. The truly elegant woman avoids all distortion of taste, preserving (even in trifles) a judicious and sensible medium; or if she adopts a singularity, her good sense will teach her to unite with each innovatiou, modesty, fashion, and the Graces. We beg leave to remark, that in the cased hips; wasp-like waists, and trussed forms distinguishable in many of our extravagantly fashionable fair, neither of these qualities cati | exist. A short skirt (which a long waist
consequently produces) takes from the grace
LETTER ON DRESS, EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE.
forty-six; yet she does not seem at all inclined to quit the field of conquest, but still enters the lists, and exultingly triumphs over many a more youthful, though less experienced rival. There will be some glorious sparring ere long, for Mademoiselle has no rival in either beauty or art; and the Marchioness must intoxicate her lovers into a perfect stupor ere she can bring them to prefer the highly matured charms of forty-six to the bloom and beauty of nineteen, Upon just and natural principles, therefore, I calculate a cordial reciprocity between these two worthies for the space of one week; a cold attention and secret jealousy on the second; a taunting sort of neglect on the third; and a complete break up on the fourth. Proverbs, you know Frederica, are said to be the wisdom of natious, and it has been a long received maxim that "two of a trade can seldom agree."
The vacancy in our family circle which Mademoiselle's departure had occasioned is now supplied by a female of a totally different character;-a perfectly sentimentalizing novel read girl from Glamorganshire, where her father possesses a considerable estate, and lives in good style as a country gentleman. He was a brother collegian of our host, and from that period to the present time a regular intimacy has subsisted between the families. Juliana || (our fair guest) is an only daughter, and this is her first visit to the gay city. The novelty of the scenes with which she is now surrounded seem more to affect her by contrast thau from the pleasure they afford her. She moralizes on the irrationality of our town amusements, and tells me (who am a prodigious favorite) that it can only be from habit that such turbulent pursuits are preferred to the peaceful and heart-felt enjoyments which a select society afford; she seems to possess the very soul of sensibility, which so far from regulating or restraining she suffers to run into a wild exuber. auce of undistinguished feeling, and she is more guided by their influence than by the sober dictates of reason. She is perfectly indifferent to general admiration, but has a high romantic sense of individual love; she revolts at the free and forward manners of the flighty fashionable woman; and appears to feel a sort of contemptuous pity for the trifling pursuits, frivolous amusements, and freedom of address adopted by the present town gentleman. Her person is in a great degree the index of her mind; with a pale and interesting countenance is united a figure of sylph-like symmetry, and over her whole person their reigns an air of romance perfectly characteristic of her sentimeats and in unison with her feelings. In her dress too, you discover a simple elegant taste ;
REJOICE with us, dear Frederica! Mademoiselle Rusée is gone! She took her departure about ten days since for a visit to the gay Marchioness of H-; where she is to pass the remaining fashionable period in town, and is then to accompany the family to Brighton ;|| that is, if they remain so long on good terms, which I very much question. This gay Marchioness has been endowed with a vast assemblage of personal charms, which she has made ase of to some purpose, from seventeen to
the robe in the centre of the bosom and fastens the bracelets at the waist. They will wear slippers of white satin, with cut steel clasps.
My dress is a Greciau robe of Paris net, the colour a Saragossa brown, interwoven with gold, and which I shall wear over an under
er delicate bosom is covered but not conceal ed. It is impossible to produce a more striking contrast than this romantic yet interesting girl to the young ladies of our household; the easy gaiety, the fashionable nonchalance, and assured air of these sisters arrest the min-1, as opposed to the apparent delicacy, and retiring || dress of white sarsnet. The draperies are yet graceful simplicity of their new companion. pointed in two irregular lengths towards the Our young ladies, however, appear perfectly left side, trimmed with gold fringe, and satisfied, and seem to have too high an opinion || finished with gold tassels. A pointed cestus of their own powerful and fashionable attrac-of gold scaling ornaments the bottom of the tions, to be in the least apprehensive of a rival waist. It has a short sleeve of the loose in this simple girl of the mountains: though,Turkish form, which falls over a long sleeve ju my humble opinion, she is more formidable of white satin, finished with cuffs correspondin this way than their quondam friend Made-ing with the cestus. I shall wear my hair moiselle Rusée. The one may excite general || d-la-Madona, with a few falling ringlets on admiration, and a transient passion, but the one side, and a demi wreath of pearl jessaother is calculated to inspire interest and wine on the other. My necklace and bracelets awaken affection. of the same, with diamond or ruby snaps. My shoes white satin, with gold rosettes and || binding, and a bouquet of geranium and white heath in the centre of my bosom.
London is at this time a complete hive of fashion, we are consequently surrounded with engagements. Juliana frequently attempts to excuse herself from the evening and dinner party, but the two sisters soon contrive to banter her out of her sobriety; yesterday we all went to the Exhibition, and in the evening to the Argyle Rooms.
To morrow our cavalcade moves to the an nual ball of the Honourable Mrs. F; aud our dresses for this splendid occasion comprise at once all that is fashionable, as well as all that is elegant and unique: you shall have a description of them; for though I forward you my customary list with this packet, yet I know you would accuse me of forfeiting my treaty with you were I to conclude this epistle without some extra information on this head. First, theu, let me tell you that our young ladies have each ordered Gallician robes of peagreen Italian crape, with demi trains, which they intend wearing over white satin slips. The robe is ornamented at the bottom with a barp border in silver lama: a long sleeve of the same with antique cuffs of silver, buttoned to the size of the wrist; a plain waist, or bodice, sitting close to the form, of green and silver tissue, in small work; a harp border of silver round the bosom. Their hair will be disposed in the Grecian style, with bandeaus of diamonds, and a large drop in the centre of the forehead. A most delicate and unique chain of silver is to ornament the neck, from which will be suspended a Maltese cross of brilliants; a rose brooch of the same confines
Juliana has chosen a dancing dress of white Peruvian net, bordered with narrow wreaths of white roses, and placed over a slip of pale pink satin, which is trimmed at the feet with a scolloped lace, put on nearly plain. A com plete frock front, and short sleeves, biassed with fine lace beading, and edged with white roses. Her hair is to be confined towards one side in fall curls,with a shell comb of pearl, and waved across the temple on the other. She al lows neither necklace or earring to obtrude on the delicate symmetry of her throat and neck; but her white and neatly rounded arm will be ornamented with the broad oriental armlet of wrought gold. Her sandal slipper is of white satin, crossed with pink and satin cord; and she wears in her bosom a half-blown rose, blended with a sprig of heart's-ease: and when thus adorned, Juliana appears a creature of irresistible attraction and interest. I send you the Minerva bonnet and cap à-leDiana, as per order; though I never yet heard of the chaste Goddess having adopted such an ornament. That, however, is of no mo ment; fashion, you know, soon reconciles us even to absolute inconsistencies.
There is nothing new in the literary world, save "Specimens of the Poetry of Joseph Blacket," which I inclose for your admiration and wonder. He is, you will find, a native of Parnassus, and a young man of great poetical genius and much promise. Adieu.
London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.
COURT AND FASHIONABLE
FOR JUNE, 1809.
1. An Elegant PORTRAIT of the RIGHT HON. LADY CHARLOTTE CAMPBELL.
2. TWO WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the FASHIONS of the SEASON, COLOURED. 3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-forte; composed exclusively for this Work, by M. P. KING.
4. Two elegant and new PATTERNS for NEEDLE-WORK.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- || BEAUTIES OF THE BRITISH POETS.
London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,
Strand, July 1, 1809.