White gowns now chiefly belong to the

Amidst the variety of out-door habits, the pelisses still hold a distinguished place; they are now considered most genteel formed in a plain French coat, with high puckered collar, || morning costume; when introduced in full confined at the centre of the throat with a brooch, wrapt over ou one side, and otherwise flowing open in front. The three-quartered, or Barouche coat, is also much in fashion

step.

able esteem. This is made to sit close to the
form, with a round bosom and full sleeve,
trimmed with Chinese floss bordering. It is
confined down the front with gold barrel snaps,
and round the waist with an elastic girdle and
buckle; the seams are usually finished with a
sort of binding the colour of the trimming.
Spensers generally form a part of the spring
costume; and this season they exhibit more
than usual taste. The most attractive of these
articles is exhibited in No. 1, of our Prints of
Fashion, for the present Number of our work.
We have also remarked them formed plain, of
coloured sarsnet, with a pelerine of net or lace,
with vandyke, or scalloped edging. The
Calypso mantle is a favourite carriage appen-
dage, and is fancifully constructed of rich
brocade sarsnet, or of net muslin, or leno, over
coloured silk, and is finished round the throat
with full plaitings of Paris net. The square
shawl is now quite exploded; but large silk
scarfs, with coloured borders, and rich brocade The hair in alternate ringlets and braids, or-
ends, amply and more gracefully supply their || namented with a pearl comb, and ti✩ra of pearl
place. These with the walking dress, are dis-jessamine. Necklace, earrings and bracelets,
posed in the most plain and simple manner, so of the same, with topaz snaps. We may safely
as to shelter the figure. In the evening dress pronounce that this dress will never be sur-
they admit of various fanciful directions. Caps passed either in appropriate elegance, or in its
are invariably adopted in the morning and animated, tasteful, and becoming effect.
half dress. In full dress (except on females of
advanced years) the hair variously ornamented,
is universally admitted. In the walking cos-
tume we distinguish the Wardle bonnet, of
fine wove straw, ornamented with a laurel
border. The helmet, or Vigonian bonnet, of
various materials, as given in the present
portrait of our walking dress. Small French
bonnets fancifully disposed, and worn with
short lace veils, and the village slouch of straw,
appropriate for the retired pedestrain. Beavers
are very little worn, we have seen a few dove-
coloured riding hats, however, attract by their
neat and unobtrusive effect. A greater variety
of coloured articles for the several style of
robes are introduced this season than we ever
remember.

white gossamer satin, sarsnet, or glazed cam-
bric.

||

dress, they are ever decorated with coloured
ornaments. Some are seen with embroidered
borders in fruit, or flowers, some with deep
trimmings of sarsnet, with chenille edging.
Amidst these, the following was remarkable
for its attractive elegance. It consists of a
round robe, with demi-train, of white imperial
crape, worn over white sarsnet; at the bottom
it was bound and turned up deep with a rich
jonquille sarsnet, and finished at its termina-
tion with a narrow checked trimming, or
braid, composed of black and gold. The long
sleeve which was very large, was gathered into
an antique cuff at the wrist, formed of ma-
terials similar with the border of the dress.
The stomacher was also of jonquille sarsnet,
with black and gold edging the same as the
trimming of the cuffs and robe, ornamented in
horizontal stripes, and finished with rich but-
tous of wrought gold in the centre. A broad
elastic girdle to correspond, confined under
the stomacher. Slippers of black satin, the
quarters trimmed with gold fringe or cord,
terminating with topaz buttons on the in-

The Grecian frock, the Gallician vest, the Braganza and Andalusian robe, are all articles of much fashionable celebrity. The waist is now brought to a point in front of the figure. Morning gowns are made appropriately high in the neck, with Armenian, or laced fronts; and in the walking, or carriage costume, is added a pelerine of the same material, consistently ornamented. Our fashionable fair seem unwilling to relinquish the half boot; but surely, if formed of ever so delicate a texture, they can never be admitted in the spring or summer costume. Bunches of fruit are now often seen to decorate the straw bonnet and lace cap; and some of our fashionable fair still further tempt us by blending these attractive ornaments with the hair in full dress; thus affording an ample specimen of the fruitfulness of female invention. Soon may we expect to see revived the entire fashions (if not the entire customs) of our grandmothers; who mounted on their high and stupendous

peruques, bunches of parsnips, carrots, and Such, dear Frederica, is just at this momeut turnips, the case with Mademoiselle Rusée, a situation, “Fruits, roots, and greens, then fill'd the ample however, to which she appears wholly insea sible; for with her

space,

“ And kitchen-garden thus adorn'd the face."

We have little of novelty to remark, in the articles of jewellery, except the pearl brooch, and necklace representing the palm leaf, and the Utopian diadem, composed of various precious gems; with girdle-buckle to correspond. The prevailing colours are purple and blue; the most genteel, spring green,shots, jonquille, pink, and primrose.

LETTER ON DRESS, EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE.

Our beaus are, however, fast recovering from their enthralment; their flame, you know, frequently requires the aid of variety to keep it alive. Our young ladies begin to view their favourite with jealous eyes, and the heads of the family now question their prudence and policy in placing so formidable a inagnet within the circle of their daughters' hitherto unrivalled and undisputed charms; so that there is no very great reason to suspect she will receive any violent entreaty to protract her visit beyond the original stated period; that, thank my stars! expires in a fortnight. My sober

From a Lady resident in London, to her friend friend, L-(of whom I have forwarded you in the country.

hints from which, if you are not very stupid, you will have formed a few consequent and natural surmises), is entirely restored to my good graces. He is very silent respecting the conduct of our fair guest, except that yesterday he said to me," May 1 take the liberty of advising Miss M- to appear as little as possible in public with Mademoiselle Rusée, during her sojourn in this family; my regard for her reputation is the excuse which offers itsel for this apparent freedom." I felt the kindness of the gentle admonition, and properly expressed my determination to abide by it. She is engaged to some gay party or other every day during her stay; I shall excuse myself from most of them, and this I can the more easily do as the sisters are too fond of pleasure to resist it, even when offered in a questionable shape; they will of course accompany her in all ber gay movements.

To-morrow they go to the masked ball of the Marchioness B's. Mademoiselle, in a rich and beautiful Turkish dress, will appear in the character of Roxilana, the two sisters as chambermaids. Mademoiselle's dresses on every occasion combine all the elegance and novelty of fashion; the price of an article is the least and last consideration. It mast, however, be allowed, that her apparel is well recommended by her taste and excellent personal advantages. Her carriage costume at this time, consists of a French coat, hat, and boots of figured jonquille shot sarsnet; the seams of the coat, as well as its several terminations, are edged with purple chenille cord; and up the front, where it is clasped with steel ornaments, is a wide fancy border in purple chenille embroidery. Her hat is of a singu

THE men may say what they will to the contrary, but I am fully persuaded, my dear Frederica, that vanity is as inherent a quality in these lords of the creation as it is with us. It is but a trite remark, that more women fall through their vanity than from the force of an ill-governed and ill-inspired attachment; and from the most scrupulous obscrvation, I am led to affirm, that it is the vanity of man, more than the ardour of an individual personal preference, which leads them to pursue and to conquer the vain and the vicious, the unfortunate and the unprotected of our sex. For the latter, I trust that the fountain of humanity which has so often filled my eyes with tears, will never be dry; and for the former, may that sense of virtuous indignation which springs from the best properties of our nature, oh! may it never be extinct! Mademoiselle Rusée, the frail heroine of my last epistle, has been the cause of much dissatisfaction in our family circle. Her monopolizing system begins to be disputed, and the female committee have sat, and one and all condemned it as unjust and nefarious. The men are beco ne jealous of each other; and Mademoiselle's character is in a fair way of being wrecked through the whirlwind of their vanity, and her own unprincipled folly.

Lobserve, Frederica, that these male flirts hold their tongues only while they suppose themselves in favour; but when the coquette in her customary wanderings gives a wound to their self-love, she is generally accompanied in her flight by the sting and venom of their slander; and each retiring, or mortified woman, helps to sound the trumpet of disgrace.

"Another and another still succeeds,
"And each as welcome as the former.”

|

larly fanciful construction; the crown is form-
ed in a sort of full square, at each corner of
which is a pendant tassel; the verge does not
project, but is formed of a full band of silk,
twisted with purple cord; from the extreme
edge is suspended a transparent veil of Mech-
lin lace. This whimsical article of adornment
is most characteristic of the wearer, for it
really resembles more the original cap of folly
than any thing I have ever seen. The several
shades of yellow appear to be her favourite
colours, and in this she discovers her judg
ment, as it is certainly the colour of all others
best suited to dark eyes and hair. She has a
most superb and elegant ball dress, formed in
Grecian draperies, of bright amber net, over a
gossamer satin slip, bordered with jessamine
wreaths, in silver; the long sleeve and sto-
macher of transparent silver tissue. A silver
Het caul incloses her hair, exclusive of a few
stray ringlets, which are allowed to fall in irre-
✰nlar disorder over her fair exposed shoulder.
Her shoes are of white satin, with small silver
rosettes and bindings. Indeed her whole
wardrobe is remarkable for the combination of
taste, fashion, and splendour, as well as for its
just and seasonable appropriations.

pink satin shoes, with silver clasps. I have
scarce seen a dress this season comprising
more elegant simplicity. So pleased am I with
the whole properties of this costume, that I
have consented to turn copyist, and shall ap.
pear at the amiable Sir Y's private concert
to-morrow, in a robe of Turkish leno, with
similar decorations; but as my humble for
tune precludes the adoption of a pearl edging,
I have substituted a fine narrow vandyke lace;
and I assure you the effect, though less costly,
is almost equally delicate and appropriate.
I have inclosed a sufficient quantity of pea-
green, and jonquille satin, for these simple
ornaments, two colours in high estimation at
this season. I also inclose a buckle of cut
steel for your girdle, an article which takes
place among genteel women of the clasp. Do
not make your waist immoderate in length;
I warn you against this, because I have often
observed that extremes in dress are more fre
quently adopted in the country.

I herewith send you my usual packet of
general information on this head; and to save
my credit, allow me just to throw in the oppo.
site scale a little food for the mind. Accept,
then, and relish as they so justly merit, "The
Memoirs of Percival Stockdale," with the account
of his writings. You will find this work to
abound with entertaining anecdote and useful
information, which do credit to the head and
heart of the venerable author.

I will now, dear friend, take occasion to describe a simple style of evening dress, which bas greatly taken my fancy, and as you and I are not abundantly gifted with the glittering recommendation of wealth, it will form a convenient and pleasing variety, without the sad drawback of an unjustifiable expence. It is the adoption of a coloured satin stomacher, cuffs, and girdle, to the white crape, muslin, or leno dress. They were first introduced by the young ladies of this mansion, who wore at the route of Lady G. B. round robes of white Paris net, over white sarsnet slips, with pink satin stomacher and cuffs, edged with pearl. A girdle of the same colour, confined with a pearl buckle; a small Spanish hat, of pink satin, with a white feather frosted with silver;

The elegant little book of "Gleanings from Zimmerman's Satitude," I will forward in my next packet. I learn there is a second edition coming out of this care-soothing and amiable little production, with a portrait of the female Editor, and some account of her life and writings; the latter of which has, I hear, been excecdingly eventful.-Adieu, my pen is worn out in your service, I hasten to give it Yours, as ever,

rest.

M

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE,

Viscountess Andover

OR,

Bell's

FOR MAY, 1909.

1. An Elegant PORTRAIT of the RIGHT HON. JANE ELIZABETH VISCOUNTESS ANDOVER.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

2. TWO WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the FASHIONS of the SEASON, COLOURED.

3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-forte; composed exclusively for this Worky by M. P. KING.

4. Two elegant and new PATTERNS for NEEDLE-WORK.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- || BEAUTIES OF THE BRITISH POETS.

TRIOUS LADIES.

....

ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS.
Of the possibility of growing young again 136
Hymenea in search of a husband........................ 137
Second sight.....
142
Original Correspondence ....
146 An Essay upon Satire
Moral Tale-Leontine and Belinda..... 148|| Absalom and Achitophel
The Miller Juryman
Account of the last total Eclipse of the

152

......

....

154 .......... 155

........

Sun, which was visible in London
A Lover entangled by himself.............
Mrs. Cowley ....
156
Sports and Pastimes used in times of old in
London, ...
.... 159
Epitaph on the Death of King George II.

by the late Dr. Porteus, Bishop of
London.....

Impromptu

135

160

ib.

BEAUTIES OF DRYDEN.

Cymon and Iphigenia (continued from our last Number)

Religio Laici

Mac Flecknoe

...

119 ib. 124 126 ........ 129

LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE.

Explanation of the Prints of Fashion.... 161
General Observations on the most select
Fashions for the Season

Letter on Dress .....
Supplementary Advertisements for the
Month.

ib. 163

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,

Strand, June 1, 1809.

THE HALF YEARLY.

SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER.

WITH the next succeeding Number of LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE, viz. on the first day of July next, will be published No. XLVII. being the regular SUPPLEMENTAL Number, which concludes the Sixth Volume of this Work, with the termination of the half year.

DECORATIONS.

The Supplement will contain the HEADS of those POETS whose Works have appeared in the prior Numbers of the Magazine, and likewise of such poets whose Works will appear in the next Number and Supplement.

These Portraits will be FIVE in number, viz. very fine Portraits, from original Pictures of acknowledged fidelity, of

The SUPPLEMENT will be charged Half-a-crown; and Subscribers are requested to give immediate orders for it to their several Boksellers, that they may procure fine impressions and complete their Volume.-A richer Number than the Supplement, and at the same price, will never issue from the periodical press.