trical determinations of the heights of the principal

stations on Mount Etna, 1814:

The following are Sir John Herschel's barometrical determinations of some of the same stations,

The time may possibly come when, by one or more convulsions of the volcano, the levels of these stations, which have been thus accurately determined by totally independent methods, may be deranged. We shall then have the means, or, more probably, our posterity will have the means,

of ascertaining the actual amount of the upheaving or subsidence of those parts of the mountain which the internal workings of the volcanic agents may have brought about. That such changes of level, both up and down, have actually taken place in times long past, there is abundant geological evidence to prove, in the completest manner of which such investigations are susceptible. It is, nevertheless, often very difficult to carry the imagination far enough back into the abysses of time to see how these things were actually brought about; but that in no respect lessens the force of the evidence by which the reason is convinced of the facts.

"In the mean time," as Captain Smyth remarks, in a letter to me on this subject, "such curious coincidences as those of Signor Cacciatore, Sir John Herschel, and myself, make me place Etna as one of the best ascertained heights of such an elevation in Europe."

CHAPTER IV.

PARTING FLING AT SANTA AGATHA.-THE CHASER CHASED.-A LONG-SHORE VOYAGE.-THE SMOKE OF VESUVIUS ILLUSTRATES THE THEORY OF THE LAND AND SEA BREEZES.

AFTER dinner, though still excessively fatigued with our excursion to the top of Etna, we embarked in our little vessel; and as soon as the night fell, and the land-wind came off the shore, we put to sea. Rest was what we wanted, and if Catania had not been the noisiest town in the world we should have remained there in preference to going to sea to look for repose. But in that city, especially at Signor Abbate's, sleep is an article which even his talents as a landlord cannot command. In other respects it is an excellent hotel, and would be perfect were it not for a certain church nearly opposite to the door, dedicated, as I have already mentioned, to Santa Agatha-whom perdition seize !— the patron saintess of Catania. In right of this distinction, I suppose, the bells of this well-anathema

tised church scarcely ever cease ringing. There is not a trace of melody in their sound; no mixture of deep tones and sharp tones; no attempt, even, at a tune, however barbarous, nor of any kind of measure, but merely one loud, rattling peal after another, jarring on the ear, and cutting into the centre of one's head. How the inhabitants submit to this grievous annoyance is astonishing, for every mortal within half a mile round must be continually disturbed by this senseless, childish, irritating noise; yet such is the force of habit, the hard-headed Catanians seem rather to like it. To me it became so great a nuisance that no consideration should induce me to live in that place. I remember hearing a gentleman say that he was so tormented with the bells of Rome that he quitted it on that account alone!

Deep but troubled were our slumbers that night, in the offing; for our exertions had been pushed so much too far, that the feverishness which succeeded our journey counteracted the effects of sleep. We therefore looked forward to the following night for lighter and more refreshing repose. The next day promised fair, but before noon a fresh breeze sprung up, accompanied by so high a sea, that every one of our party, excepting only the infant and myself, were laid prostrate; even I felt so squeamish that I had enough to do, tired as I was, to enact the nursery-maid. Female aid

there was none, but by the steward's assistance I got through the weary day; and right happy I was when the turbulent sea-breeze fell into a calm towards sunset. By this time we had stretched over to the coast of Calabria, from whence Mount Etna, with a blood-red sunset behind him, and a tower of gilded clouds above his head, looked like the monarch of the Mediterranean sea. Unfortunately the rest of the company were many degrees beyond the point of caring for the picturesque, and I had the beauty of the scene, as well as a huge dinner, all to myself.

I must say, however, for the Italian sailors, that they have a stronger sense of the beauty of Nature than our worthy Jacks have; at least I remarked, on this occasion, that the fellows hung over the rough tree-rail, with arms crossed, and red caps drawn over their eyebrows, enjoying the sight of their splendid Mongibello with an instinctive sort of admiration, cultivated from infancy, when passing to and from some of the most magnificent spots on earth-Naples, Palermo, and Catania.

It is said by navigators experienced in those seas that, owing to the size and configuration of Sicily, on the one hand, and of the south-west angle of Italy-the toe of the boot-on the other, the wind blows always either directly up or directly down the straits of Messina. I cannot say that I